Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 1 (of 4)

Note – the description is divided into few posts (there is a limit on the number of pictures in a post).

Removing the PTU from a 3.2L is similar to the 2.0L, except for the part of taking the PTU out of the vehicle, which is more tricky.

Below I describe the removal of the PTU, and sometimes specify some tools where they are probably not trivial.
Installation is in a reverse order. I added sometimes notes for the removal, and sometimes torque values (wherever I found them in the manuals).

Parts
Manuals specify some parts that should be replaced if being removed. I don’t know much about it. But anyway, I put the parts here if anyone is planning to do the work and wants to order the parts in advance.

1. Part 6509898AA
View attachment 238523
Locking nut for the right wheel hub (I guess it is because you smash it when you put it back - but as I said, I don’t know much about it).

2.Part 68242709AA
View attachment 238524
Driveshaft bolts have these green parts that were shaved off when I took them out in my Jeep (again, I don’t know the meaning of it).
Note that there are 6 bolts (3 pairs), and the package that you get has one pair - so you need 3 packages.

3. Part 68224124AB and part 68224123AA
View attachment 238525
View attachment 238526
These are just bolts attaching the actuator to the PTU body.
You need 3 x 68224124AB (long ones) and 1 x 68224123AA (short one).
Note that there is just one bolt in a package (so you need 3 + 1 packages), and they are relatively expensive for a bolt - in my mind.

Also note that the long bolt that I got (I think it is the version AB) had a special head.
View attachment 238527
It is External Torx Plus, and you must have socket EP10 for it (which is usually available in car tools shops or online).
Yes - I don’t like these bolts.

4. Part 68224122AB
View attachment 238528
This one I am not sure (was out of stock) but I think it fits the actuator (on my AD2 PTU).
I didn’t see any manual recommendation of changing it, but if you like changing gaskets.
Note that it is the actuator to the PTU body gasket, it is not the “sad” gasket, the one that keeps the oil from the motor.

5. Locking compound
If you open the actuator, you will need some green locking compound when you close it (there was some of it on the bolts to begin with).

6. Motor
There is a good chance that you will you need to change the motor, look at post #146 https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/adii-won’t-shift-into-4wd-low.248975/page-8?post_id=3063817#post-3063817


1. lifting
You will be working under the Jeep while using force on rusted bolts or maneuvering (struggling with) things. Make sure that the Jeep is really secured.
I personally (and it is not a recommendation on safety – you need to make sure for yourself that you are safe), put the front wheels on ramps, put blockers at the rear wheels and also secured with stands in the middle.
Also, after removing the right drive axle, I put the wheel back (with the ball joint back to the lower arm) and lowered the Jeep so that I will not be doing the rest of work under the Jeep with the wheel out.
View attachment 238529

View attachment 238530

View attachment 238531

Hey @Assi. Great write-up, looking forward to parts 2-4! It's an especially great idea about putting the tire back on. I'm the same, I won't get under a vehicle supported just by jack stands. Yes, I know it's supposed to be sufficient but all I can think about when under there is this big mass of metal coming down and crushing me and my wife yelling at me as I'm dying saying, "I told you so" as she calls the life insurance agent . Seriously, we all should all remember, SAFETY FIRST!

 

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 2 (of 5)

2. Battery
Disconnect the Battery (they always say to do it, I guess it is because you will be disconnecting sensors or touching many things and might be causing a short circuit – I don’t know).

3. Right drive axle
This is a very good YouTube for it ("How to Replace the drive axle on the Jeep Cherokee 2014 to 2019" by Haynes Manuals):

Few remarks, especially if you are not using a lift:

1. Before you take the ball joint thread out of the lower arm make sure to raise also the left wheel (I think that they don’t mention it since they are using a lift – so the wheel is already in the air). If the left wheel is still on the ground, then it will put a lot of pressure on the right wheel position, making it difficult to take the ball joint thread out of the lower arm, and especially pushing the strut very roughly to one side when the ball joint thread it is out.

2. I recommend using a slide hummer to pull out the drive axle. In the YouTube they say to use a pry bar. I tried, a lot, with many pry bars but it wouldn’t go out. I think that it is because I am working on the floor so there is not enough space to get the angle for it. So, I got this tool, and with few small slides the drive axle was out.

3. Closing the ball joint nut, in my Jeep I have Moog ball joints installed so they have different torque value then the one that is mentioned in the YouTube (Moog installation guide says 25nm and then turn 175 degrees).

4. Left Exhaust pipe
Left side Exhaust, 5 bolts, 2 on each side, 1 in the middle.
Take it out toward the front direction (it looks like it makes sense to take it out toward the back since you have this fat flex pipe part, but it is flex and can be maneuvered to the front).

Note, when putting back the bolts use Anti seize/Copper Grease.

5. Driveshaft
6 bolts in the back. They are T45.

Gently pry it out.

4 bolts in the heat shield/ bearings.

When you put it back, note the direction of the shield and that it is over the bearing brackets (it won’t go in any other way anyway).

The front part is connected to the PTU.

The PTU has a C clips.

So, again I recommend using the slide hammer to pull it out, it requires few strong slides, and it is out.

When installing back the driveshaft, put grease on the shaft and the PTU.
I am not sure, but with the drive axle they said to put the ring with the opening facing down, so anyway I did it here also. Then just push the driveshaft with your hands until it is locked inside the PTU (trying to pull it out, it has maybe 2mm of movement but will not get out).
Put back the rear T45 bolts - torque is 21nm.
Put back the driveshaft heat shield - torque is 23nm.

6. Right Exhaust pipe
Right side Exhaust, 3 bolts that are connected to the Catalytic converter (no need to open the other side of the pipe).

From the back, using wobble extension (to perform this arc).

Note, when putting back the bolts use Anti seize/Copper Grease.

In the middle of the Exhaust, 2 bolts. Not sure it is a must, but it will help pushing the right exhaust pipe (the one you just released ) a bit back and out of the way.

 

Driveshaft bolts have these green parts that were shaved off when I took them out in my Jeep (again, I don’t know the meaning of it).

The green/red stuff is manufacturer loctite. I re-used my drive shaft bolts but added a little red and blue to mine when I serviced the RDM and later when I replaced the driveshaft itself. Had no issues with bolts coming loose, and didn't take much to break them despite the red.

 

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 3 (of 5)

7. Catalytic converter
Disconnect the air temperature sensor and remove the Air box and hose.
This will give a better access to the back of the engine.

Next to the firewall, disconnect the 2 Oxygen sensors, and a clip holding the wire.

Form under the Jeep, remove the 2 bolts and remove this round bracket from the Catalytic converter leg.

Remove the middle bolt. It can be accessed from the right side next to the wheel (like in this picture angle), but,

it is much easier to reach it from the top, next to the firewall, with a wobble extender.

Remove the 2 top bolts. They can be accessed from the top, next to the firewall, exactly where the Oxygen connectors are, with a wrench or better a flex wrench.

After you remove the top 2 bolts, the Catalytic converter can be slide upward from the “cradle”.
You will need to be under the Jeep, awkwardly pushing it upward.

Regarding the bottom “cradle” bolts, you don’t need to remove or even loosen them. However, maybe if it is stuck there, losing one of the bolts (only the left one is really accessible) will help (I did it at the first time, but not sure it was at all needed).

To install back the catalytic converter, you first need to get the top part back into the cradle. You will need to be under the Jeep, awkwardly pushing it into the cradle.
When it is in the cradle try to bolt in the top 2 bolts. If you can't get them in, or if they get in but feel like they don't turn like they should (too much resistance), then try, from above next to the firewall, to tap the catalytic converter head from the side (I played with it a lot, until I found this trick, with few very light taps the catalytic converter moved in the cradle to place and the bolts got in like they should).

Note, when putting back these bolts use Anti seize/Copper Grease.

8. Heat shields
Remove 3 bolts from the left PTU heat shield.

Remove 3 bolts from the right PTU heat shield. Note that you can remove all 3 bolts out - now that the catalytic converter is free (usually there is one bolt that otherwise is not very accessible), so also make sure to install the heat shields back before you install the catalytic converter – otherwise you will never be able to reach this bolt.

Remove both heat shields (requires some maneuvering and even bending).

When installing, tighten the bolts to 13.7nm (it is a strange number since I translated it from ft lib or something).

No picture…

 

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 4 (of 5)

9. PTU
On the right side of the PTU there is a bracket.
Remove the 4 bolts that are connecting the bracket to the PTU.
When installing, tighten the bolts to 21.7nm.

This is the same bracket, from a side view.
Remove the 2 top bolts. The inner (left) bolt is harder to remove, the socket that you use there can’t be too short (the head of the ratchet handle will hit the bracket) or too long (no room), I used a small socket with some adapter to get to a nice length, you can also try to push a bit the catalytic converter away to get more room.
When installing, tighten the bolts to 43.4nm.

Remove the lower bolt and remove the bracket.
(I don’t have the official torque for this bolt).

The left side of the PTU is connected to the transmission.
3 bolts in a raw.
You can reach them from the right side (the right drive axle opening) connecting few wobble extensions creating an arc.
When installing, tighten the bolts to 47.5nm.

Remove one bolt on the left side bottom.

Remove the breather, just push it out. The breather hose is also connected with a clip above the PTU, you can release it, but if you push the breather out of the PTU you can take the PTU down without the breather.

Remove the connector, it might not be easy, if it is dirty it might be stuck there. You can reach it from the top near the firewall, or easier is to reach from the right side. You can try to use a screwdriver or similar to push it a bit. Maybe reach it after you move the PTU out of the transmission (next step), then you will have more room to stretch your arm.

 

Awesome instructions and pictures @Assi!

 

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 5 (of 5)


10. PTU down
Money time…

On the 3.2L you can’t just “tip the left side downward and out of the vehicle”, it doesn’t go, it is too tight. So here is what eventually worked for me.

Push the PTU to the right to get it out of the transmission.
Note - when installing back the PTU, put grease on the PTU and the transmission shafts.

Now that you pushed the PTU out of the transmission the PTU reached the other end, there is no room. The right to left opening is very tight, so the first thing to notice is the position of the catalytic converter leg.
It can’t go like that, between the PTU and the frame, there is not enough room.

The leg must pass from the side.

I position the catalytic converter like that (after some playing, it doesn’t move much), putting it’s end up on the subframe.

Now there is just enough room from left to right. Note that you might need to move the PTU few millimeters from right to left as you go down to bypass bolts or others.

Now for the front to back opening. Here there is no room at all.
The way to solve it is to swing the engine.
This engine/transmission mounting, between the transmission and the subframe, gives some movement to the engine, just a few centimeters.

Just to demonstrate, pushing this chisel pushes the engine.

I played with a pry bar to move the engine, I push it with a chisel like in the picture, I took the bolt out (which doesn’t seem to actually give more swing), but at the end the best way was to use a ratchet strap connected to the radiator support bar, pulling the engine forward (without taking the bolt out).

Now you have enough room from front to back.
You can start taking the PTU down.

Note the position of the nose, especially when you put the PTU back, first slide in the nose.

I used a car jack, lowering it every time few more centimeters, and letting the PTU fall to it. It doesn’t really fall, at least not at the beginning, there is still friction from all sides, so shake it a bit with a pry bar, and move it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
I used the stones or woods "ramp" at the sides when I needed to release the jack to move it a bit.
Note that the PTU is going down almost horizontally.

Putting the PTU back up, similarly, I raised the PTU, and when I felt too much resistance, I took it down a bit and moved it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
And at some point, you bypass the friction, and the PTU is there.

That’s it, now fix it.

 

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 5 (of 5)


10. PTU down
Money time…

On the 3.2L you can’t just “tip the left side downward and out of the vehicle”, it doesn’t go, it is too tight. So here is what eventually worked for me.

Push the PTU to the right to get it out of the transmission.
Note - when installing back the PTU, put grease on the PTU and the transmission shafts.
View attachment 238561

Now that you pushed the PTU out of the transmission the PTU reached the other end, there is no room. The right to left opening is very tight, so the first thing to notice is the position of the catalytic converter leg.
It can’t go like that, between the PTU and the frame, there is not enough room.
View attachment 238562

The leg must pass from the side.
View attachment 238563

I position the catalytic converter like that (after some playing, it doesn’t move much), putting it’s end up on the subframe.
View attachment 238564

Now there is just enough room from left to right. Note that you might need to move the PTU few millimeters from right to left as you go down to bypass bolts or others.

Now for the front to back opening. Here there is no room at all.
The way to solve it is to swing the engine.
This engine/transmission mounting, between the transmission and the subframe, gives some movement to the engine, just a few centimeters.
View attachment 238565

Just to demonstrate, pushing this chisel pushes the engine.
View attachment 238566

I played with a pry bar to move the engine, I push it with a chisel like in the picture, I took the bolt out (which doesn’t seem to actually give more swing), but at the end the best way was to use a ratchet strap connected to the radiator support bar, pulling the engine forward (without taking the bolt out).
View attachment 238567

Now you have enough room from front to back.
You can start taking the PTU down.

Note the position of the nose, especially when you put the PTU back, first slide in the nose.
View attachment 238568

I used a car jack, lowering it every time few more centimeters, and letting the PTU fall to it. It doesn’t really fall, at least not at the beginning, there is still friction from all sides, so shake it a bit with a pry bar, and move it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
I used the stones or woods "ramp" at the sides when I needed to release the jack to move it a bit.
Note that the PTU is going down almost horizontally.

Putting the PTU back up, similarly, I raised the PTU, and when I felt too much resistance, I took it down a bit and moved it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
And at some point, you bypass the friction, and the PTU is there.
View attachment 238569

That’s it, now fix it.

Now that the easy part is done, fix it!

 

Phew... after reading this mine's definitely going to stay a two wheel drive.

 

Excellent write up and pics!

Members taking the time to document and share their experiences is what makes this an awesome site. How could I ever get rid of my TH

Now you just make me want to go out and do it ……but I think I’ll wait till my SVC 4WD light comes on, on its own.

 

Thank you for this!

 

2019 cherokee limited Gonna attempt this tomorrow.
I'm a moderately experienced mechanic so I'm not too scared of it. Thank you for the write up. Dealer wanted 6k to replace this and the RDM. I think the RDM was still ok, just a lot of play. I put RDM in and it didn't clear codes, which they said it "might". Jumped the RDM hydraulic pump w 12v power supply and it operated fine. Sensor read good ohms. There was play on the driver side output shaft. Needed new bearings but of course no rebuild kit is sold, so 2.3k later from the dealer .........

I have codes
C140B-13 xfr case motor ckt open,
C1440-1C xfr case clutch pressure sensor voltage out of range,
u1203-00 ptu lost connection with DTCM ,
c14A7-97 PTU motor component or system op obstructed or blocked ,
and U0010-00 CAN interior Bus

Makes me think its the computer on the ptu, not the ptu itself because of the ground fault and canbus fault.

Some characteristics of the issue - When the service 4x4 first came on there was a clunk then a noise. The noise almost sounded like when you put a pop can on your bike tire as a kid. Limped it to a safe spot and got under it. The rear driveshaft was spinning free while in park. Had it towed to dealer they quoted RDM and PTU 6k+. They told me not to drive it, but I had to drive it home (only 2 miles) and to my surprise no noise no 4x4 light nothing. I jacked it up and spun wheels checking for sounds , rough spots etc. (ive blown a rear diff out lol). This is my wifes daily driver, not beat on at all. If you shut it off the light goes out but then service 4x4 comes on usually within the first few miles of driving. When the code is out the rear driveshaft is locked in. Every so often it'll make it 20+ miles, but the codes are pending on the scanner. When the service light comes on its only front wheel drive. It will not engage the ptu or rdm. When first started it operates fine. No noises nothing. To me that makes it a wiring or cpu issue.

I've got it stuck in the snow twice now (use it for work, have to drive on bad roads). Both times a simple shut down and restart allows the 4x4 to operate for enough time to get out of the sticky situation. I'm talking mild sloped snow covered driveways is all, just enough that front wheel drive wont power through. Running falken wildpeak trails. We had 6 inches of snow so I took it out before the codes came in and did a few very aggressive maneuvers in a parking lot..... had my dad watch the wheels.... 4x4 is operating as it should.

Not sure what the weird sound was when it first happened but other then codes its operating correctly.

I'm gonna drain the fluid and see what it looks like. I may try to flush it as well. The fact that these are "sealed for life" units and cannot be serviced in the vehicle have made me 100% against mopar for the rest of my life. Shame honestly... but I have to maintain what I already have. It's a nice car, just wish it wasn't so shoddily designed. Why they didnt put a drain is infuriating to me. Thats blatant disregard for customers.

Anyways, sorry for the slight rant.
Anyone had similar?

 

Took 3 hours and 15 mins to get it out. What a PITA couple notes. Mine has a the steel sub frame on the bottom. I think that started in 2019. It’s also the 3.2L

I ended up bending these splash guard tabs down. If that didn’t make it clear I was gonna cut them off and just weld them back on. Made it much easier to come out.

We had to rotate the thing completely upside down to get it to come out. The side opposite of the transmission was easier to drop it in. This would be a tough job without a second person moving things around for you. I took some pictures I’ll upload later. Not sure how from iPhone.

My dad went through the ptu closely with a magnet. Found some metal but nothing that I think is worse than a normal gearbox should have.

The shift sleeve moves fine and doesn’t have excess play. The teeth are not worn too bad, there is some visible wear that I would expect from 90k miles. All splines look fine. I found the transfer case actuator motor soaked in oil. It appears the screw hole closest to the middle has leaked into the sealed motor/electronics compartment.

I bumped the motor and it was pulling high amperage 2.5A and smoking lol. Has a dead spot on the commutator, if it lands there you have to manually rotate it past to get it to start. As I ran it more it smoothed out as the oil burnt out and was only pulling .25A and spinning good. I have a video of it running I’ll post as well.

I’m ordering an actuator and I think it’ll get it sorted out. Also - I was able to replicate the sound that I heard when I first had the issue. It’s the shift ring just barely engaged and bouncing on the rear differential output side gear. I’d say my actuator was stuck mid travel. It doesn’t look like it wore it too bad getting it off the road like I did. Plus we didn’t find a ton of metal and the shift ring isn’t cracked or anything. Sorry if I’m too detailed, this is just how my mind works lol. I’ll post updates as I get the parts.

 

Took 3 hours and 15 mins to get it out. What a PITA couple notes. Mine has a the steel sub frame on the bottom. I think that started in 2019. It’s also the 3.2L

I ended up bending these splash guard tabs down. If that didn’t make it clear I was gonna cut them off and just weld them back on. Made it much easier to come out.

We had to rotate the thing completely upside down to get it to come out. The side opposite of the transmission was easier to drop it in. This would be a tough job without a second person moving things around for you. I took some pictures I’ll upload later. Not sure how from iPhone.

My dad went through the ptu closely with a magnet. Found some metal but nothing that I think is worse than a normal gearbox should have.

The shift sleeve moves fine and doesn’t have excess play. The teeth are not worn too bad, there is some visible wear that I would expect from 90k miles. All splines look fine. I found the transfer case actuator motor soaked in oil. It appears the screw hole closest to the middle has leaked into the sealed motor/electronics compartment.

I bumped the motor and it was pulling high amperage 2.5A and smoking lol. Has a dead spot on the commutator, if it lands there you have to manually rotate it past to get it to start. As I ran it more it smoothed out as the oil burnt out and was only pulling .25A and spinning good. I have a video of it running I’ll post as well.

I’m ordering an actuator and I think it’ll get it sorted out. Also - I was able to replicate the sound that I heard when I first had the issue. It’s the shift ring just barely engaged and bouncing on the rear differential output side gear. I’d say my actuator was stuck mid travel. It doesn’t look like it wore it too bad getting it off the road like I did. Plus we didn’t find a ton of metal and the shift ring isn’t cracked or anything. Sorry if I’m too detailed, this is just how my mind works lol. I’ll post updates as I get the parts.

Just one note, to consider, if you suspect the Motor, you can replace only the Motor, it costs only around 70$ (you have a link in post #1). Fault c14A7 is usually a Motor problem (but I don't recognise the other faults).
You can also find information in this forum for cleaning the magnets and the sensor strip in the actuator.

 

I hadn't poked around too much on this forum, but I see there is a lot of info on this problem. What a HORRIBLE design lol............... the exact same issue I'm having. Oil soaked actuator motor. There was a little bit of metal sludge on the sensor but nothing like what ive seen in others posts. Maybe enough to casue a problem still though.

 

FYI, the motor alone is available on AliExpress. Johnson Electric

 

Bent these splash gaurd tabs down

garage helper

I think this screw leaked -where screwdriver is pointing - allowing the fluid to enter the electronics compartment. The gasket looked good all around. This screws sealant was pretty much gone and the threads were wet all the way through.

Everything oil soaked

a little bit of Metalica paste on the bar but the sensor seems clean.

I'm just going to order the whole unit as im worried about the circuit board being junk as well. The only place I've found it in stock is either amazon, ebay or rockauto. I trust the rock auto one the most but its $550. Amazon has one for $200, not going to risk that though. Going to call dealer in the AM and see their price.

Thanks again everyone for your input. It seems my diagnosis is in line with everyone elses.

 

Bent these splash gaurd tabs down View attachment 239773
garage helper
View attachment 239768

I think this screw leaked -where screwdriver is pointing - allowing the fluid to enter the electronics compartment. The gasket looked good all around. This screws sealant was pretty much gone and the threads were wet all the way through.
View attachment 239771
Everything oil soaked
View attachment 239770


View attachment 239772

a little bit of Metalica paste on the bar but the sensor seems clean.
View attachment 239769

I'm just going to order the whole unit as im worried about the circuit board being junk as well. The only place I've found it in stock is either amazon, ebay or rockauto. I trust the rock auto one the most but its $550. Amazon has one for $200, not going to risk that though. Going to call dealer in the AM and see their price.

Thanks again everyone for your input. It seems my diagnosis is in line with everyone elses.

Hey @FuzzNut25 ,

Re: I'm just going to order the whole unit as im worried about the circuit board being junk as well.

Completely agree. Didn't realize your circuit board had been bathed in oil as well. Who knows if it's just the motor and a part on the board hasn't failed. (and at the very least, the board would be very brittle from immersion in oil)​

Note also (though it doesn't matter now since you're going to replace the whole actuator), the sensor magnet is also covered in magnetic paste and metal whiskers. That (along with the sensor strip) are some of the most common causes or positioning DTC-errors.

Question..... Were you able to get that PTU out without taking off the Bank 1 cat? Your cat/y-pipe junction below is still together. I didn't think that was possible (not enough space to manuever) without disconnecting the cat at the manifold.

​

​

 

Also, what's the shop rate your assistant charges?

​

 

good catch, I was wondering if anyone would notice that.
yes i did get it right out without taking the (edit) y pipe from cat on passanger side. My dad just pryed it up as I twisted the PTU and it slipped past. I was going to take that pipe apart but forgot, and then didn't need to. Now getting it back in ..... we will see lol I may have to. I did order the gasket just incase... whats 8$ at this point

 

Wow. I tip my hat to you and your dad . (and your assistant of course 🐶)

 

FYI, the motor alone is available on AliExpress. Johnson Electric

FYI, the motor alone is available on AliExpress. Johnson Electric

Houston, we have a problem...🤔😳😉😁

 

Hey @Gary Kline
At least the bot is smart enough to pick one of the smartest guys on the forum to duplicate posts from...😉😁

 

Hey @Gary Kline
At least the bot is smart enough to pick one of the smartest guys on the forum to duplicate posts from...😉😁

View attachment 239820

Thanks but I think the bot just has a stalking complex for SushiCat

 

Why is there a circuit board in a component so buried and exposed to the things that jeeps getting exposed to?

I could actually understand the oil cooler leaks so prominent for these cars leaking onto the PTU and killing the board.

 

Why is there a circuit board in a component so buried and exposed to the things that jeeps getting exposed to?

I could actually understand the oil cooler leaks so prominent for these cars leaking onto the PTU and killing the board.

Hi @WifesJeep ,

Good question. The oil cooler leak is a different thing (and on the V6 engine only). It doesn't leak onto the PTU actuator or involved with any of the PTU failures.

The PTU oil-in-the-motor issue is internal to the PTU. Oil that's inside the PTU gets splashed onto the bottom of the actuator while the car is in operation. Either though a bad seal on the actuator case halves or through the gearing holes to the motor, gear oil seeps in and soaks the PTU's small electric motor and covers the circuit board. Either way, the oil is the gear oil that's inside the PTU, not motor oil from the engine/engine oil cooler.

 

Waiting on a final gasket then I'm putting mine back together. It's scheduled to arrive today. I'll attempt to put it together Thursday evening or Fri morning.

 

Got it together. Took 4 hours. Didn’t take the 3 bolt flange apart from the rear bank cat.

The part we had trouble with was the exhaust flange cradle. Man that thing was tough to get back in. I did change the gasket but left the 2 bottom tight like when we took it apart. My dad was underneath twisting it upwards and I was ontop the motor directing it in and pushing down. It may have been easier if I had the pipe separated from the rear pipe.


The PTU went in decently. About the same as coming out. We put the output to rear shaft up in first with Ptu upside down. (Make sure to cap off the vent) Then feed the trans side up in. Once that’s in roll it to right side up and feed the other side up in. Had to pry the cat bracket out of the way again but got it right in. All the bolts and everything went pretty easy since we knew where they were. Your guide was great THANK YOU.

I’ve had this battery ratchet for a few years and for jobs like this it’s indispensable.

I still have the transfer case code on the OBD

but the 4x4 is working as told by gravel parking lot. I’m gonna take it to get it reprogrammed as I put a new DTCM in the back trunk area. Hopefully the ptu motor failing didn’t fry something else.

we will see what will happen I’m gonna drive it for a few days.

 

Got it together. Took 4 hours. Didn’t take the 3 bolt flange apart from the rear bank cat.

The part we had trouble with was the exhaust flange cradle. Man that thing was tough to get back in. I did change the gasket but left the 2 bottom tight like when we took it apart. My dad was underneath twisting it upwards and I was ontop the motor directing it in and pushing down. It may have been easier if I had the pipe separated from the rear pipe.


The PTU went in decently. About the same as coming out. We put the output to rear shaft up in first with Ptu upside down. (Make sure to cap off the vent) Then feed the trans side up in. Once that’s in roll it to right side up and feed the other side up in. Had to pry the cat bracket out of the way again but got it right in. All the bolts and everything went pretty easy since we knew where they were. Your guide was great THANK YOU.

I’ve had this battery ratchet for a few years and for jobs like this it’s indispensable.
View attachment 240100

I still have the transfer case code on the OBD View attachment 240099

but the 4x4 is working as told by gravel parking lot. I’m gonna take it to get it reprogrammed as I put a new DTCM in the back trunk area. Hopefully the ptu motor failing didn’t fry something else.

we will see what will happen I’m gonna drive it for a few days.

Take out the two connectors from your DTCM and examine them. Any corrosion? (did you ever have water in your spare tire area? (the known water infiltration issues that corrodes wires and connectors in the cargo area) Then, plug the DTCM back in making sure the connectors are fully seated. See if the "U" (communication) errors go away.

If issue persists, also make sure you have 12v at the DTCM. Also check fuses - especially F47 and F14



Fuse F76 (RDM)
Fuse F47 (DTCM)
Fuse F10 (PTU)
Fuse F69 (SelecTerrain knob)
Fuse F14 (DTCM/PTU/RDM & Brake System Module (BSM))