[Assi]

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 2 (of 5)

2. Battery
Disconnect the Battery (they always say to do it, I guess it is because you will be disconnecting sensors or touching many things and might be causing a short circuit – I don’t know).

3. Right drive axle
This is a very good YouTube for it ("How to Replace the drive axle on the Jeep Cherokee 2014 to 2019" by Haynes Manuals):

Few remarks, especially if you are not using a lift:

1. Before you take the ball joint thread out of the lower arm make sure to raise also the left wheel (I think that they don’t mention it since they are using a lift – so the wheel is already in the air). If the left wheel is still on the ground, then it will put a lot of pressure on the right wheel position, making it difficult to take the ball joint thread out of the lower arm, and especially pushing the strut very roughly to one side when the ball joint thread it is out.

2. I recommend using a slide hummer to pull out the drive axle. In the YouTube they say to use a pry bar. I tried, a lot, with many pry bars but it wouldn’t go out. I think that it is because I am working on the floor so there is not enough space to get the angle for it. So, I got this tool, and with few small slides the drive axle was out.

3. Closing the ball joint nut, in my Jeep I have Moog ball joints installed so they have different torque value then the one that is mentioned in the YouTube (Moog installation guide says 25nm and then turn 175 degrees).

4. Left Exhaust pipe
Left side Exhaust, 5 bolts, 2 on each side, 1 in the middle.
Take it out toward the front direction (it looks like it makes sense to take it out toward the back since you have this fat flex pipe part, but it is flex and can be maneuvered to the front).

Note, when putting back the bolts use Anti seize/Copper Grease.

5. Driveshaft
6 bolts in the back. They are T45.

Gently pry it out.

4 bolts in the heat shield/ bearings.

When you put it back, note the direction of the shield and that it is over the bearing brackets (it won’t go in any other way anyway).

The front part is connected to the PTU.

The PTU has a C clips.

So, again I recommend using the slide hammer to pull it out, it requires few strong slides, and it is out.

When installing back the driveshaft, put grease on the shaft and the PTU.
I am not sure, but with the drive axle they said to put the ring with the opening facing down, so anyway I did it here also. Then just push the driveshaft with your hands until it is locked inside the PTU (trying to pull it out, it has maybe 2mm of movement but will not get out).
Put back the rear T45 bolts - torque is 21nm.
Put back the driveshaft heat shield - torque is 23nm.

6. Right Exhaust pipe
Right side Exhaust, 3 bolts that are connected to the Catalytic converter (no need to open the other side of the pipe).

From the back, using wobble extension (to perform this arc).

Note, when putting back the bolts use Anti seize/Copper Grease.

In the middle of the Exhaust, 2 bolts. Not sure it is a must, but it will help pushing the right exhaust pipe (the one you just released ) a bit back and out of the way.

 

[Assi]

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 3 (of 5)

7. Catalytic converter
Disconnect the air temperature sensor and remove the Air box and hose.
This will give a better access to the back of the engine.

Next to the firewall, disconnect the 2 Oxygen sensors, and a clip holding the wire.

Form under the Jeep, remove the 2 bolts and remove this round bracket from the Catalytic converter leg.

Remove the middle bolt. It can be accessed from the right side next to the wheel (like in this picture angle), but,

it is much easier to reach it from the top, next to the firewall, with a wobble extender.

Remove the 2 top bolts. They can be accessed from the top, next to the firewall, exactly where the Oxygen connectors are, with a wrench or better a flex wrench.

After you remove the top 2 bolts, the Catalytic converter can be slide upward from the “cradle”.
You will need to be under the Jeep, awkwardly pushing it upward.

Regarding the bottom “cradle” bolts, you don’t need to remove or even loosen them. However, maybe if it is stuck there, losing one of the bolts (only the left one is really accessible) will help (I did it at the first time, but not sure it was at all needed).

To install back the catalytic converter, you first need to get the top part back into the cradle. You will need to be under the Jeep, awkwardly pushing it into the cradle.
When it is in the cradle try to bolt in the top 2 bolts. If you can't get them in, or if they get in but feel like they don't turn like they should (too much resistance), then try, from above next to the firewall, to tap the catalytic converter head from the side (I played with it a lot, until I found this trick, with few very light taps the catalytic converter moved in the cradle to place and the bolts got in like they should).

Note, when putting back these bolts use Anti seize/Copper Grease.

8. Heat shields
Remove 3 bolts from the left PTU heat shield.

Remove 3 bolts from the right PTU heat shield. Note that you can remove all 3 bolts out - now that the catalytic converter is free (usually there is one bolt that otherwise is not very accessible), so also make sure to install the heat shields back before you install the catalytic converter – otherwise you will never be able to reach this bolt.

Remove both heat shields (requires some maneuvering and even bending).

When installing, tighten the bolts to 13.7nm (it is a strange number since I translated it from ft lib or something).

No picture…

 

[Assi]

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 4 (of 5)

9. PTU
On the right side of the PTU there is a bracket.
Remove the 4 bolts that are connecting the bracket to the PTU.
When installing, tighten the bolts to 21.7nm.

This is the same bracket, from a side view.
Remove the 2 top bolts. The inner (left) bolt is harder to remove, the socket that you use there can’t be too short (the head of the ratchet handle will hit the bracket) or too long (no room), I used a small socket with some adapter to get to a nice length, you can also try to push a bit the catalytic converter away to get more room.
When installing, tighten the bolts to 43.4nm.

Remove the lower bolt and remove the bracket.
(I don’t have the official torque for this bolt).

The left side of the PTU is connected to the transmission.
3 bolts in a raw.
You can reach them from the right side (the right drive axle opening) connecting few wobble extensions creating an arc.
When installing, tighten the bolts to 47.5nm.

Remove one bolt on the left side bottom.

Remove the breather, just push it out. The breather hose is also connected with a clip above the PTU, you can release it, but if you push the breather out of the PTU you can take the PTU down without the breather.

Remove the connector, it might not be easy, if it is dirty it might be stuck there. You can reach it from the top near the firewall, or easier is to reach from the right side. You can try to use a screwdriver or similar to push it a bit. Maybe reach it after you move the PTU out of the transmission (next step), then you will have more room to stretch your arm.

 

[Assi]

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 5 (of 5)


10. PTU down
Money time…

On the 3.2L you can’t just “tip the left side downward and out of the vehicle”, it doesn’t go, it is too tight. So here is what eventually worked for me.

Push the PTU to the right to get it out of the transmission.
Note - when installing back the PTU, put grease on the PTU and the transmission shafts.

Now that you pushed the PTU out of the transmission the PTU reached the other end, there is no room. The right to left opening is very tight, so the first thing to notice is the position of the catalytic converter leg.
It can’t go like that, between the PTU and the frame, there is not enough room.

The leg must pass from the side.

I position the catalytic converter like that (after some playing, it doesn’t move much), putting it’s end up on the subframe.

Now there is just enough room from left to right. Note that you might need to move the PTU few millimeters from right to left as you go down to bypass bolts or others.

Now for the front to back opening. Here there is no room at all.
The way to solve it is to swing the engine.
This engine/transmission mounting, between the transmission and the subframe, gives some movement to the engine, just a few centimeters.

Just to demonstrate, pushing this chisel pushes the engine.

I played with a pry bar to move the engine, I push it with a chisel like in the picture, I took the bolt out (which doesn’t seem to actually give more swing), but at the end the best way was to use a ratchet strap connected to the radiator support bar, pulling the engine forward (without taking the bolt out).

Now you have enough room from front to back.
You can start taking the PTU down.

Note the position of the nose, especially when you put the PTU back, first slide in the nose.

I used a car jack, lowering it every time few more centimeters, and letting the PTU fall to it. It doesn’t really fall, at least not at the beginning, there is still friction from all sides, so shake it a bit with a pry bar, and move it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
I used the stones or woods "ramp" at the sides when I needed to release the jack to move it a bit.
Note that the PTU is going down almost horizontally.

Putting the PTU back up, similarly, I raised the PTU, and when I felt too much resistance, I took it down a bit and moved it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
And at some point, you bypass the friction, and the PTU is there.

That’s it, now fix it.

 

[Assi]

Took 3 hours and 15 mins to get it out. What a PITA couple notes. Mine has a the steel sub frame on the bottom. I think that started in 2019. It’s also the 3.2L

I ended up bending these splash guard tabs down. If that didn’t make it clear I was gonna cut them off and just weld them back on. Made it much easier to come out.

We had to rotate the thing completely upside down to get it to come out. The side opposite of the transmission was easier to drop it in. This would be a tough job without a second person moving things around for you. I took some pictures I’ll upload later. Not sure how from iPhone.

My dad went through the ptu closely with a magnet. Found some metal but nothing that I think is worse than a normal gearbox should have.

The shift sleeve moves fine and doesn’t have excess play. The teeth are not worn too bad, there is some visible wear that I would expect from 90k miles. All splines look fine. I found the transfer case actuator motor soaked in oil. It appears the screw hole closest to the middle has leaked into the sealed motor/electronics compartment.

I bumped the motor and it was pulling high amperage 2.5A and smoking lol. Has a dead spot on the commutator, if it lands there you have to manually rotate it past to get it to start. As I ran it more it smoothed out as the oil burnt out and was only pulling .25A and spinning good. I have a video of it running I’ll post as well.

I’m ordering an actuator and I think it’ll get it sorted out. Also - I was able to replicate the sound that I heard when I first had the issue. It’s the shift ring just barely engaged and bouncing on the rear differential output side gear. I’d say my actuator was stuck mid travel. It doesn’t look like it wore it too bad getting it off the road like I did. Plus we didn’t find a ton of metal and the shift ring isn’t cracked or anything. Sorry if I’m too detailed, this is just how my mind works lol. I’ll post updates as I get the parts.

Just one note, to consider, if you suspect the Motor, you can replace only the Motor, it costs only around 70$ (you have a link in post #1). Fault c14A7 is usually a Motor problem (but I don't recognise the other faults).
You can also find information in this forum for cleaning the magnets and the sensor strip in the actuator.

 

[Assi]

Got it together. Took 4 hours. Didn’t take the 3 bolt flange apart from the rear bank cat.

The part we had trouble with was the exhaust flange cradle. Man that thing was tough to get back in. I did change the gasket but left the 2 bottom tight like when we took it apart. My dad was underneath twisting it upwards and I was ontop the motor directing it in and pushing down. It may have been easier if I had the pipe separated from the rear pipe.


The PTU went in decently. About the same as coming out. We put the output to rear shaft up in first with Ptu upside down. (Make sure to cap off the vent) Then feed the trans side up in. Once that’s in roll it to right side up and feed the other side up in. Had to pry the cat bracket out of the way again but got it right in. All the bolts and everything went pretty easy since we knew where they were. Your guide was great THANK YOU.

I’ve had this battery ratchet for a few years and for jobs like this it’s indispensable.
View attachment 240100

I still have the transfer case code on the OBD View attachment 240099

but the 4x4 is working as told by gravel parking lot. I’m gonna take it to get it reprogrammed as I put a new DTCM in the back trunk area. Hopefully the ptu motor failing didn’t fry something else.

we will see what will happen I’m gonna drive it for a few days.

Nice .
Regarding the faults, did you try to get them cleared going to the dtcm module?
I know that in my case I could always clear them, or most, at least fault C14A7 which I recognize.
Also, you can try again after some driving (hours), some of the codes will clear only then.
Another thing is disconnecting the Battery for 30 min (or so), there are faults that for them only this works.