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after several hours of work on the PTU i have new findings.
first: it's not necessary to remove the planetary hypoid gear set. you can't get to the inside of the differential from there. i used a dremel to remove the bumps on the bolts and ground the bolts thinner in the upper area so that i could remove them finally. there are 2 needle bearings with 22 needles each in each planetary hypoid gear. that makes a nice puzzle when reassembling, i'm happy. not really. half a day's work for nothing.
secondly, it is not possible to reach the inside of the pinion gear to remove the remaining pieces of broken locking pins. attached are a few pictures.

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the bolts move outwards (protrude approx. 5mm) and grind on the inner wall of the housing, the gray color of the oil is therefore from the aluminum abrasion. in the position when the bolt protrudes outwards, the hole of the bolt with the middle piece of the broken cotter pin is above the gap between the pinion and the middle piece (core). if the broken pieces of cotter pin get into the pinion gears, it comes to noises that I have heard.
After a short while there were no more noises and the pins were attached to the magnet on the oil drain plug.

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Well, I guess that's why they just replace the whole PTU, instead of fixing it. They make everything ten times more complicated than it needs to be nowadays on purpose I think...🤔🫤😎
 
But all of this is not the reason why the ADII won’t shift into 4WD Low :confused:
Were you trying to solve a 4WD Low shift issue? I thought the issue you were trying to solve was the two pins that came out on the fill plug.

Note 4WD activation issues are usually the actuator. (although in your case, since you found actual physical damage inside the PTU, it could have been something jammed) however check your actuator module for the following;

1. Gear oil that's leaked past the seal and is inside the motor and covered the circuit board. (Johnson Electric motor: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806693318766.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.4.32da9kXB9kXByL&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=cb6f9831-f43a-49b6-bb8a-11ed356c6505&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:cb6f9831-f43a-49b6-bb8a-11ed356c6505,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8116#2002&pdp_npi=4@dis!USD!87.49!61.24!!!87.49!61.24!@2101efeb17299824546638968e6d00!12000038602475928!rec!US!!ABX&utparam-url=scene:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from:&_gl=1*15r76y3*_gcl_au*NzAyMzQyMTMwLjE3Mjk5ODE1MjE.*_ga*ODEwNzU1NjU2LjE3Mjk5ODE1MjI.*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*MTcyOTk4MTUyMi4xLjEuMTcyOTk4MjQ1NC42MC4wLjA. )

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2. Magnetic paste build-up on the position sensor strip causing the module to not be able to sense the position of the actuators (very possible since you had paste build-up on the fill plug)

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3.Magnetic paste and bits of shaved metal on the armature magnets​
This is what the two magnets should look like.​
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The one below has magnetic paste and magnetize metal shavings built-up on the magnets. The sensor strip won't be able to determine the magnet's postion to know where the armature is located.​
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But all of this is not the reason why the ADII won’t shift into 4WD Low :confused:
And note, for each of these issues with the actuator, it could also be coming from the RDM in the back (or even a defective Drive Train Control Module (DTCM). There's an issue where the connector can corrode on the DTCM is the Cherokee has water in the cargo area/spare tire well). The only way to know for sure is to check.
 
Were you trying to solve a 4WD Low shift issue? I thought the issue you were trying to solve was the two pins that came out on the fill plug.

Note 4WD activation issues are usually the actuator. (although in your case, since you found actual physical damage inside the PTU, it could have been something jammed) however check your actuator module for the following;

1. Gear oil that's leaked past the seal and is inside the motor and covered the circuit board. (Johnson Electric motor: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806693318766.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.4.32da9kXB9kXByL&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=cb6f9831-f43a-49b6-bb8a-11ed356c6505&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:cb6f9831-f43a-49b6-bb8a-11ed356c6505,tpp_buckets:668#2846#8116#2002&pdp_npi=4@dis!USD!87.49!61.24!!!87.49!61.24!@2101efeb17299824546638968e6d00!12000038602475928!rec!US!!ABX&utparam-url=scene:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from:&_gl=1*15r76y3*_gcl_au*NzAyMzQyMTMwLjE3Mjk5ODE1MjE.*_ga*ODEwNzU1NjU2LjE3Mjk5ODE1MjI.*_ga_VED1YSGNC7*MTcyOTk4MTUyMi4xLjEuMTcyOTk4MjQ1NC42MC4wLjA. )

View attachment 236494




2. Magnetic paste build-up on the position sensor strip causing the module to not be able to sense the position of the actuators (very possible since you had paste build-up on the fill plug)

3.Magnetic paste and bits of shaved metal on the armature magnets​
This is what the two magnets should look like.​
The one below has magnetic paste and magnetize metal shavings built-up on the magnets. The sensor strip won't be able to determine the magnet's postion to know where the armature is located.​
Have you tried to solve a problem with the 4WD low gear? I thought the problem you were trying to solve was the two pins coming out of the filler neck.
yes that is correct, I went looking because of the problem with the 4WD low gear and found the two pins.
the 4WD activation an meinem PTU seht genau so aus wie in deinen Post gezeigt, ich werde es reinigen.

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And note, for each of these issues with the actuator, it could also be coming from the RDM in the back (or even a defective Drive Train Control Module (DTCM). There's an issue where the connector can corrode on the DTCM is the Cherokee has water in the cargo area/spare tire well). The only way to know for sure is to check.
Thanks for the tip. What does RDM (rear axle differential?) mean?
and yes on my Cherokee KL there is also water in the cargo area/spare tire, first I will fix the problem on the PTO itself.
is there a topic about the water in the cargo area/spare tire problem? can you link it?
 
Have you tried to solve a problem with the 4WD low gear? I thought the problem you were trying to solve was the two pins coming out of the filler neck.
yes that is correct, I went looking because of the problem with the 4WD low gear and found the two pins.
the 4WD activation an meinem PTU seht genau so aus wie in deinen Post gezeigt, ich werde es reinigen.

View attachment 236497 View attachment 236498
Wow, those magnets are terrible. They need to be cleaned off. Also, looks like oil in the motor compartment.

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Thanks for the tip. What does RDM (rear axle differential?) mean?
and yes on my Cherokee KL there is also water in the cargo area/spare tire, first I will fix the problem on the PTO itself.
is there a topic about the water in the cargo area/spare tire problem? can you link it?
REM (Rear Drive Module). Is is the PTU-like unit in the rear. It is what the propshaft from the PTU connects to and how the 4WD/AWD system works. Just like the PTU, there is an actuator on top and the same problems as can happen to the PTU actuator can happen there. But right now I would focus on the PTU actuator because there's a lot of magnetic debris on the magnets, oil in the motor compartment and probably, magnetic paste on the sensor strip.
 
Lies mich.






 
Three modules, the Electric Parking Brake (EPB) module, the Power Lift Gate Module (PLGM) and the Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) are located in the cargo area and can be affected by moisture if there is water in the Cherokee's wheel well/cargo area. The wires can short (fire hazard) or corrode (module does not work). The DTCM controls the PTU and RDM so if it develops a problem, 4WD won't work. The remedy is to inspect the modules, take off their connectors, inspect for water or corrosion etc.
 
The wire connector from the actuator... I released the ptu bolts (just released but didn't remove yet) and tried to get the connector out. I tried from up or below, and can't pull it out, so far...
How did you get it out? Maybe I need to release and move the ptu first?
 
I removed the screws and took the PTU down a bit at an angle so that it was easier to reach the plug with my hand. I then used a screwdriver to release the lock on the plug, be careful I damaged it.

I found this picture on the internet, it looks like the PTU plug
View attachment 236530
Thanks, I will do as you did.
I took a picture of the plug with an endoscope camera, it looks similar with the red part missing. Maybe it is a bit broken or stuck there and that's why it didn't move.
Anyway, I hope to have the PTU out tomorrow, or during the weekend, and then we can compare damage...:sneaky:
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I removed the screws and took the PTU down a bit at an angle so that it was easier to reach the plug with my hand. I then used a screwdriver to release the lock on the plug, be careful I damaged it.

I found this picture on the internet, it looks like the PTU plug
View attachment 236530
Same. Remove the screws, pull out the PTU just a few inches to clear its connection with the transmission shafts and then slightly angle down while rotating until you can reach it. Note, make sure you have good support at this point as the PTU is heavy and nothing is holding it anymore. You don't want it to drop suspended only by the actuator wire (which at that point would be the former actuator wire :oops: )
 
😬 the plug is out. All the bolts are out. The PTU is free, out of the transmission, and now I am struggling with trying to get it dowm. It doesn"t go through, it is tight, and there is the catalytic converter leg, and I am doing it on the floor laying under the car, so...
 
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