[Gary Kline]

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 1 (of 4)

Note – the description is divided into few posts (there is a limit on the number of pictures in a post).

Removing the PTU from a 3.2L is similar to the 2.0L, except for the part of taking the PTU out of the vehicle, which is more tricky.

Below I describe the removal of the PTU, and sometimes specify some tools where they are probably not trivial.
Installation is in a reverse order. I added sometimes notes for the removal, and sometimes torque values (wherever I found them in the manuals).

Parts
Manuals specify some parts that should be replaced if being removed. I don’t know much about it. But anyway, I put the parts here if anyone is planning to do the work and wants to order the parts in advance.

1. Part 6509898AA
View attachment 238523
Locking nut for the right wheel hub (I guess it is because you smash it when you put it back - but as I said, I don’t know much about it).

2.Part 68242709AA
View attachment 238524
Driveshaft bolts have these green parts that were shaved off when I took them out in my Jeep (again, I don’t know the meaning of it).
Note that there are 6 bolts (3 pairs), and the package that you get has one pair - so you need 3 packages.

3. Part 68224124AB and part 68224123AA
View attachment 238525
View attachment 238526
These are just bolts attaching the actuator to the PTU body.
You need 3 x 68224124AB (long ones) and 1 x 68224123AA (short one).
Note that there is just one bolt in a package (so you need 3 + 1 packages), and they are relatively expensive for a bolt - in my mind.

Also note that the long bolt that I got (I think it is the version AB) had a special head.
View attachment 238527
It is External Torx Plus, and you must have socket EP10 for it (which is usually available in car tools shops or online).
Yes - I don’t like these bolts.

4. Part 68224122AB
View attachment 238528
This one I am not sure (was out of stock) but I think it fits the actuator (on my AD2 PTU).
I didn’t see any manual recommendation of changing it, but if you like changing gaskets.
Note that it is the actuator to the PTU body gasket, it is not the “sad” gasket, the one that keeps the oil from the motor.

5. Locking compound
If you open the actuator, you will need some green locking compound when you close it (there was some of it on the bolts to begin with).

6. Motor
There is a good chance that you will you need to change the motor, look at post #146 https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/adii-won’t-shift-into-4wd-low.248975/page-8?post_id=3063817#post-3063817


1. lifting
You will be working under the Jeep while using force on rusted bolts or maneuvering (struggling with) things. Make sure that the Jeep is really secured.
I personally (and it is not a recommendation on safety – you need to make sure for yourself that you are safe), put the front wheels on ramps, put blockers at the rear wheels and also secured with stands in the middle.
Also, after removing the right drive axle, I put the wheel back (with the ball joint back to the lower arm) and lowered the Jeep so that I will not be doing the rest of work under the Jeep with the wheel out.
View attachment 238529

View attachment 238530

View attachment 238531

Hey @Assi. Great write-up, looking forward to parts 2-4! It's an especially great idea about putting the tire back on. I'm the same, I won't get under a vehicle supported just by jack stands. Yes, I know it's supposed to be sufficient but all I can think about when under there is this big mass of metal coming down and crushing me and my wife yelling at me as I'm dying saying, "I told you so" as she calls the life insurance agent . Seriously, we all should all remember, SAFETY FIRST!

 

[Gary Kline]

Awesome instructions and pictures @Assi!

 

[Gary Kline]

Removing the PTU from a TH 3.2L - Part 5 (of 5)


10. PTU down
Money time…

On the 3.2L you can’t just “tip the left side downward and out of the vehicle”, it doesn’t go, it is too tight. So here is what eventually worked for me.

Push the PTU to the right to get it out of the transmission.
Note - when installing back the PTU, put grease on the PTU and the transmission shafts.
View attachment 238561

Now that you pushed the PTU out of the transmission the PTU reached the other end, there is no room. The right to left opening is very tight, so the first thing to notice is the position of the catalytic converter leg.
It can’t go like that, between the PTU and the frame, there is not enough room.
View attachment 238562

The leg must pass from the side.
View attachment 238563

I position the catalytic converter like that (after some playing, it doesn’t move much), putting it’s end up on the subframe.
View attachment 238564

Now there is just enough room from left to right. Note that you might need to move the PTU few millimeters from right to left as you go down to bypass bolts or others.

Now for the front to back opening. Here there is no room at all.
The way to solve it is to swing the engine.
This engine/transmission mounting, between the transmission and the subframe, gives some movement to the engine, just a few centimeters.
View attachment 238565

Just to demonstrate, pushing this chisel pushes the engine.
View attachment 238566

I played with a pry bar to move the engine, I push it with a chisel like in the picture, I took the bolt out (which doesn’t seem to actually give more swing), but at the end the best way was to use a ratchet strap connected to the radiator support bar, pulling the engine forward (without taking the bolt out).
View attachment 238567

Now you have enough room from front to back.
You can start taking the PTU down.

Note the position of the nose, especially when you put the PTU back, first slide in the nose.
View attachment 238568

I used a car jack, lowering it every time few more centimeters, and letting the PTU fall to it. It doesn’t really fall, at least not at the beginning, there is still friction from all sides, so shake it a bit with a pry bar, and move it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
I used the stones or woods "ramp" at the sides when I needed to release the jack to move it a bit.
Note that the PTU is going down almost horizontally.

Putting the PTU back up, similarly, I raised the PTU, and when I felt too much resistance, I took it down a bit and moved it few millimeters from side to side to bypass obstacles.
And at some point, you bypass the friction, and the PTU is there.
View attachment 238569

That’s it, now fix it.

Now that the easy part is done, fix it!

 

[Gary Kline]

FYI, the motor alone is available on AliExpress. Johnson Electric

 

[Gary Kline]

Bent these splash gaurd tabs down View attachment 239773
garage helper
View attachment 239768

I think this screw leaked -where screwdriver is pointing - allowing the fluid to enter the electronics compartment. The gasket looked good all around. This screws sealant was pretty much gone and the threads were wet all the way through.
View attachment 239771
Everything oil soaked
View attachment 239770


View attachment 239772

a little bit of Metalica paste on the bar but the sensor seems clean.
View attachment 239769

I'm just going to order the whole unit as im worried about the circuit board being junk as well. The only place I've found it in stock is either amazon, ebay or rockauto. I trust the rock auto one the most but its $550. Amazon has one for $200, not going to risk that though. Going to call dealer in the AM and see their price.

Thanks again everyone for your input. It seems my diagnosis is in line with everyone elses.

Hey @FuzzNut25 ,

Re: I'm just going to order the whole unit as im worried about the circuit board being junk as well.

Completely agree. Didn't realize your circuit board had been bathed in oil as well. Who knows if it's just the motor and a part on the board hasn't failed. (and at the very least, the board would be very brittle from immersion in oil)​

Note also (though it doesn't matter now since you're going to replace the whole actuator), the sensor magnet is also covered in magnetic paste and metal whiskers. That (along with the sensor strip) are some of the most common causes or positioning DTC-errors.

Question..... Were you able to get that PTU out without taking off the Bank 1 cat? Your cat/y-pipe junction below is still together. I didn't think that was possible (not enough space to manuever) without disconnecting the cat at the manifold.

​

​

 

[Gary Kline]

Also, what's the shop rate your assistant charges?

​

 

[Gary Kline]

good catch, I was wondering if anyone would notice that.
yes i did get it right out without taking the (edit) y pipe from cat on passanger side. My dad just pryed it up as I twisted the PTU and it slipped past. I was going to take that pipe apart but forgot, and then didn't need to. Now getting it back in ..... we will see lol I may have to. I did order the gasket just incase... whats 8$ at this point

Wow. I tip my hat to you and your dad . (and your assistant of course 🐶)

 

[Gary Kline]

Hey @Gary Kline
At least the bot is smart enough to pick one of the smartest guys on the forum to duplicate posts from...😉😁

View attachment 239820

Thanks but I think the bot just has a stalking complex for SushiCat

 

[Gary Kline]

Why is there a circuit board in a component so buried and exposed to the things that jeeps getting exposed to?

I could actually understand the oil cooler leaks so prominent for these cars leaking onto the PTU and killing the board.

Hi @WifesJeep ,

Good question. The oil cooler leak is a different thing (and on the V6 engine only). It doesn't leak onto the PTU actuator or involved with any of the PTU failures.

The PTU oil-in-the-motor issue is internal to the PTU. Oil that's inside the PTU gets splashed onto the bottom of the actuator while the car is in operation. Either though a bad seal on the actuator case halves or through the gearing holes to the motor, gear oil seeps in and soaks the PTU's small electric motor and covers the circuit board. Either way, the oil is the gear oil that's inside the PTU, not motor oil from the engine/engine oil cooler.

 

[Gary Kline]

Got it together. Took 4 hours. Didn’t take the 3 bolt flange apart from the rear bank cat.

The part we had trouble with was the exhaust flange cradle. Man that thing was tough to get back in. I did change the gasket but left the 2 bottom tight like when we took it apart. My dad was underneath twisting it upwards and I was ontop the motor directing it in and pushing down. It may have been easier if I had the pipe separated from the rear pipe.


The PTU went in decently. About the same as coming out. We put the output to rear shaft up in first with Ptu upside down. (Make sure to cap off the vent) Then feed the trans side up in. Once that’s in roll it to right side up and feed the other side up in. Had to pry the cat bracket out of the way again but got it right in. All the bolts and everything went pretty easy since we knew where they were. Your guide was great THANK YOU.

I’ve had this battery ratchet for a few years and for jobs like this it’s indispensable.
View attachment 240100

I still have the transfer case code on the OBD View attachment 240099

but the 4x4 is working as told by gravel parking lot. I’m gonna take it to get it reprogrammed as I put a new DTCM in the back trunk area. Hopefully the ptu motor failing didn’t fry something else.

we will see what will happen I’m gonna drive it for a few days.

Take out the two connectors from your DTCM and examine them. Any corrosion? (did you ever have water in your spare tire area? (the known water infiltration issues that corrodes wires and connectors in the cargo area) Then, plug the DTCM back in making sure the connectors are fully seated. See if the "U" (communication) errors go away.

If issue persists, also make sure you have 12v at the DTCM. Also check fuses - especially F47 and F14



Fuse F76 (RDM)
Fuse F47 (DTCM)
Fuse F10 (PTU)
Fuse F69 (SelecTerrain knob)
Fuse F14 (DTCM/PTU/RDM & Brake System Module (BSM))