Hey, everyone. First post from a long time Jeep owner. I’m the original owner of a 2004 Rubicon TJ and a 2014 Cherokee KL. The Cherokee currently has 180,000 miles on a 2.4L Multiair engine. Pennzoil Platinum synthetic oil at 4,000 to 5,000 mile intervals with Purolator One filters for the life of the car.
About a year ago, the Cherokee started throwing a misfire code (P0301) on the number one cylinder. The plug looked a little fouled and I replaced the plugs along with all four ignition coils (NGK). Three months ago, the misfire code returned. The number one plug again looked fouled. The other three looked normal. I cleaned the plug, reset the code and made an appointment with a shop.
A day or so after the second misfire code the vehicle hard started, ran extremely rough and gave me the misfire code again along with P1061 - Cylinder 1 oil supply solenoid stuck shut. It also threw a P0300 - multiple cylinder misfire code. The engine ran so rough that it stalled.
With the mileage being high on this vehicle, my unwillingness to replace the VVA brick/engine and my spouse wanting a new car after ten years of daily driving this one, I parked the Cherokee and we bought a new car. My plan was to either sell the car as-is to a wholesaler or donate the car for the tax deduction. This car has been a saga. In the early days of the ZF transmission issues it had the transmission replaced twice before 40,000 miles.
Before off loading the car, I decided to try an engine flush with Liqui-Moly Proline Engine Flush. I followed the directions on the can (it ran rough for 15 minutes, but gradually improved), drained the oil, refilled it and put on a new filter. The car fired up with no issues, no misfire etc. I cleared the codes and that was almost 2,000 miles ago. I’ve been driving it several days a week, plus two long freeway trips, and there have been no issues. It’s now my alternate ride.
Normally, I’m of the belief that nothing poured into your gas tank or oil can fix a broken engine, but it appears the Liqui-Moly did the trick in my engine. I wanted to make this post as a reference for anyone who finds themselves dealing with sticking or otherwise malfunctioning VVA assemblies in their 2.4L engine. It might be worth spending fifteen dollars on some Liqui-Moly engine flush and seeing what happens before you tear into the motor or ditch the car.
About a year ago, the Cherokee started throwing a misfire code (P0301) on the number one cylinder. The plug looked a little fouled and I replaced the plugs along with all four ignition coils (NGK). Three months ago, the misfire code returned. The number one plug again looked fouled. The other three looked normal. I cleaned the plug, reset the code and made an appointment with a shop.
A day or so after the second misfire code the vehicle hard started, ran extremely rough and gave me the misfire code again along with P1061 - Cylinder 1 oil supply solenoid stuck shut. It also threw a P0300 - multiple cylinder misfire code. The engine ran so rough that it stalled.
With the mileage being high on this vehicle, my unwillingness to replace the VVA brick/engine and my spouse wanting a new car after ten years of daily driving this one, I parked the Cherokee and we bought a new car. My plan was to either sell the car as-is to a wholesaler or donate the car for the tax deduction. This car has been a saga. In the early days of the ZF transmission issues it had the transmission replaced twice before 40,000 miles.
Before off loading the car, I decided to try an engine flush with Liqui-Moly Proline Engine Flush. I followed the directions on the can (it ran rough for 15 minutes, but gradually improved), drained the oil, refilled it and put on a new filter. The car fired up with no issues, no misfire etc. I cleared the codes and that was almost 2,000 miles ago. I’ve been driving it several days a week, plus two long freeway trips, and there have been no issues. It’s now my alternate ride.
Normally, I’m of the belief that nothing poured into your gas tank or oil can fix a broken engine, but it appears the Liqui-Moly did the trick in my engine. I wanted to make this post as a reference for anyone who finds themselves dealing with sticking or otherwise malfunctioning VVA assemblies in their 2.4L engine. It might be worth spending fifteen dollars on some Liqui-Moly engine flush and seeing what happens before you tear into the motor or ditch the car.
" (the 2.4's get good gas mileage) but real glad you got it going. It would be a shame to get rid of it just because of the brick (which even used are expensive but still worth the repair in my book).
