[KSbirder]

I've used a Tekonsha Prodigy for 11 years and it works great. Here is a shot of it installed using the great advice earlier in this thread. 3021-P re-wire took only minutes as did the install.

Took it for a shake-down cruise today and this vehicle pulls better than expected. Here is a shot of what I am pulling...a 2003 Trailmanor 2720SD. It is currently loaded, so the weight is around 3,000 lb with about 375-400 lb tongue weight.

I decided to go with a load-leveling hitch on this vehicle to keep weight on the front wheels, but this thing has a pretty high hitch height and I may need to get a longer shank to level the trailer out. I picked a good day to test things out...I cruised down the highway at 70 in a cross wind gusting over 40 mph. Real solid with great acceleration. Tranny temp maxed out at 165F, although no major hills.

 

[Jeepster1]

Nice combo!
The Trailmanor looks great behind your Cherokee.
Can't wait to see the two in action camping.

 

[ChaletTow]

Thanks for all the details. One more question: How do you take apart the plug on the Tekonsha pigtail (so I can switch the wires)?

 

[Hudsonhawk]

You need a small flat blade screwdriver. Think eye glass size or similar.
You will see a white piece of plastic in the plug. Release the two tabs on the side and push them forward with the screwdriver. You will be able to remove this piece.
Now each wire is held in place with a clip. Use the screwdriver to release the clip as you pull on the wire from the back of the plug. It should pop right out.
Snap the wires in their correct position and put it back together.

It took me longer to write this then it did to actually modify the plug.

 

[Delawaresport]

Delaware Sport

I thank everybody who has shared the approaches to put an electric brake controller in their Cherokees. I just bought the Grand Limited with the diesel. Unfortunately my dash doesn't have the "door where the controller location has been established.
I have a 2011 Ram with the controller standard. wanted to downsize but yet tow. Shame Jeep designers didn't give me a chance to do this because of too much soccer mom and not enough sport "utility" vehicle.

 

[iwbull]

Ready, Set, Go!

Thanks to everyone on this thread, especially Hudsonhawk, for the great instructions on installing the brake controller. Too all of a half hour to get it in mounted and set. Tested it on Saturday with the trailer and all is well. Thanks everyone!

Here's a pic of my setup.

 

[drunolfson]

Dinghy towing

This is really good info. My goal is to tow the TH behind a motorhome so I too will need to run wires through the firewall to my US Gear Unified Tow Brake. Any idea where the leads on the engine side of the firewall can be found. I need to run 3 or 4 wires through the firewall and don't relish the thought of puncturing through an existing wire boot.

Dennis

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

This is really good info. My goal is to tow the TH behind a motorhome so I too will need to run wires through the firewall to my US Gear Unified Tow Brake. Any idea where the leads on the engine side of the firewall can be found. I need to run 3 or 4 wires through the firewall and don't relish the thought of puncturing through an existing wire boot.

Dennis

If you look at the existing boot up and to the left of the brake pedal (from inside) - there is an indent with a nipple that you cut off. I was impressed that Jeep actually left a spot for us to fish wires through!

 

[Wolonk]

Help

I am all set to install my Prodigy 2. I took the screw out of the panel to the right of the brake panel, but can't the panel to come off. What am I doing wrong? I don't want to force it and break it.

 

[Wolonk]

Whoops, I meant the panel to the LEFT of the brake panel

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

Dunno - I managed to pull it back far enough and stick my head deep enough into the foot-well to find the plug without popping the panel right out. Grab a flash light - you should be able to get at it with a little contortion.

 

[Wolonk]

One last question: Wouldn't it be easier to switch the two wires on the brake controller end, rather than on the vehicle end? That way you can do it in the house, rather than while lying under the dash.

 

[Hudsonhawk]

I was referring to 2 plug pigtail not the wiring harness in the Jeep. You dismantle the plug on the vehicle end of the pigtail and swap the wires. You do not modify the factory wiring in the Jeep.

The pull the kick panel loose:
There is a plastic tab on the back of the panel that fits in a metal bracket. After you remove the screw, you pull the middle of the panel toward you. It will bend enough to pull the tab out of the bracket. There are other wires attached to the panel so be careful.

 

[Brian]

I like the prodigy controller, but would a smaller controller like the pod fit inside the cubby where it was mounted externally by others earlier in this thread?

see pod controller here:
http://www.reese-hitches.com/products/Accu_Power_Pod_Brake_Controller,80500

In the Toyota Tacoma thread below somebody got the pod controller mounted inside a cuddy in the Tacoma, perhaps this installation method could work in the cherokee too?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n.../forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/177363-hidden-trailer-brake-controller-install-pics.html

 

[Hudsonhawk]

The only issue with having it inside the cubby is access to the manual brake activation. This allows you to operate the trailer brakes independently of the vehicle brakes. There are certain situations where this could mean the difference between a jack-knife/wreck and just a scary situation.

 

[Brian]

good point hudsonhawk, if it is in the cuddy could one have it open (so you can manually engage the brake) while pulling a trailer and closed when not trailering?

 

[Hudsonhawk]

good point hudsonhawk, if it is in the cuddy could one have it open (so you can manually engage the brake) while pulling a trailer and closed when not trailering?

I don't see why not. Just remember to close it before you get out or you may bash your knees against it.

 

[cat97628]

hudson what prodigy are you using. I just picked up the p3 and looking at your diagram vs what i have received it doesn't look like the swap out is needed. I have the 3021-p cable plus the original p3 pigtail the color of the wires seem to line up with the diagram you have in your pdf. is the plug in the pdf the one under the dash?

 

[cat97628]

never mind never look at blue and black wires in an under lit room.

 

[cat97628]

ok so I got my Prodigy P3 installed and everything is working great. I mostly followed Hudon's writeup but want to get it located in the center console where the little cubby is left of the USB and SD Card slot. Well after a little trial an error I got it where I wanted and am very happy. I do not know if this will work with other controllers but it will work with a P3. Your controller will need to be able to be mounted 360 degrees.The first thing I did was to pry up the center console lid where the parking brake and 4WD selector is. A fine blade trim tool with light force starting near the parking brake and working your way around seemed to do the trick. I also did the same with the gear selector boot. When removing the boot pull straight down on the chrome ring, this will expose the 2 set screws for the shift selector. Remove the 2 screws the pull straight up on the knob. you can now remove the boot. I had to shift the truck into drive to get enough room to remove the console lid. Once it was past the selector I put it back in park and disconnected all of the plugs. I had to cut the zip ties that hold the wire loom in place but those can be replaced when you put it all back together. Now that the console lid was free from the car i proceeded to drill a hole towards the top of the small cup. I then took a dremel to widen the hole to about 3/4 an inch to 1 inch tall by about 3 inches wide. Once the whole was finished I passed the pigtail from the P3 controller through the side of the drivers footwell. This panel near the gas pedal just pulls away from the front 3 tabs are holding it in the front with 1 large tab in the back. I then cut the end off of my 3021-p wire that would have gone to the controller. I plugged in the vehicle end and then passed the 3021-p behind the brake pedal and steering shaft. The 3021-p was modified per Hudons writeup. Now I will point out the this wire is hot even with the car off tape the bare wires or better yet pull the F99 fuse. I found out the hardware no one carries this fuse. Right now I have pulled my rear defog and a cigar lighter fuse to replace what I blew. Any ways back to the install. I then connected the P3 pigtail to the 3021-p blue to blue, red to red, white to white black to black. I then tested the controller and had power (after replacing fuses). Now the reassemble of the console. Make sure the P3 pigtail does not fall back into the console when putting the lid back on. The assembly is very straight forward just hook all the wires back up and snap things back into place. once everything is in place now you can install the controller. I went with the P3 cradle and the small metal bracket that comes with the P3. I attached the wire harness and slid the controller in at a slight angle from where the USB port is. This controller sits in nicely just using a pressure fit. No screwing through the console at all. I do not have any issues getting to any of the buttons on the controller nor the 4WD selector. sorry i do not have more pics but kind of got wrapped up in the install.