Hi there and welcome to JCC

When you say the battery is very much alive : how do you mean ? This sounds like it could be a dying battery.

Did you purchase the 2014 new ? Have you replaced the battery yet, if you are the original owner ?
V6 or 2.4L engine ? Any other symptoms ?

Thx.

 

Hi there and welcome to JCC

When you say the battery is very much alive : how do you mean ? This sounds like it could be a dying battery.

Did you purchase the 2014 new ? Have you replaced the battery yet, if you are the original owner ?
V6 or 2.4L engine ? Any other symptoms ?

Thx.

Hi thanks for your reply, purchased second hand 4, almost 5 years ago and the battery was new then. All connections were checked and battery has been tested, that's why this is such a puzzle. It's a V6 and no other issues at all but it did pull a P0546. (corrected typo) code that I cleared once before as well. No sure how that would be connected but who knows at this point.

 

A common point of failure is where the actual battery cable bolts to the battery clamp itself.

There's enough electrons flowing for the smaller loads but when a full connection is required, it cuts out.

Basically, all the battery cabling and connectors at the battery need to be disassembled, cleaned and re-installed.

It is a dangerous detail and should be performed by a qualified technician.

 

Agree with Mark. Sounds like a battery.

 

I have a '15 TH 2.4L and right at 34 months I went out and tried to start and nothing. I waited, tried again, nothing. I disconnected battery negative, waited, reconnected and it started right up. I did see that battery positive was not all that tight either. I went to the dealer and had them replace the battery under warranty. Everything is good until this past spring when I tried it and nothing. I removed both terminals, cleaned and tightened and been good ever since.

I periodically clean the engine when doing a full detail and I will check and re-tighten the terminals. It's not unusual to find the rather cheesy terminals not very tight, so that could be it: lighter loads are fine, but heavier loads - like cranking won't work. I also threw away the battery cover - it's too hot in there for sealed lead acid in my opinion.

Good luck with your ride!

 

This link has all the gory details about P0545: P0545 Exhaust Gas Temperature EGT Sensor Circuit Low Bank 1
Ignore this post, it does not apply to this discussion.

 

Sorry, mistype, p0456, phone decided to correct. I will go back to the battery again and recheck, clean and retighten the connections again. I sincerely hope that is the issue because bringing it to the dealership will be quite the expensive endeavour.

 

Quick question : have you tried getting a boost when the Cherokee refuses to turn over ? If so, and if it works, then... the battery is even more the probable culprit.

Problem with battery tests : testing equipment is usually programmed to say a battery is good when it tests above 50% battery health. The Cherokee requires roughly 60%+ to be good enough ; this is health, not state of charge, and old style carbon type battery testers can't check this parameter. Most shops have electronic testers now, which do check battery health.

If your present battery is 4+ years old, it wouldn't be money thrown away to replace it... even if it turns out to not be responsible for the current problem. Because you have a 2014, OEM battery is not AGM, but I'd recommend you get an AGM (group 94R/H7). If you need help finding one, let me know. Ballpark prices :
$250 - $275-ish for AGM : https://www.canadiantire.ca/fr/pdp/...r/pdp/batterie-motomaster-eliminator-agm-groupe-94r-h7-l4-800-adf-0109420p.html

https://www.costco.ca/Energizer-H7-AGM-Battery-.product.1545890.html

$190 at Canadian Tire for a regular 94R : https://www.canadiantire.ca/fr/pdp/batterie-motomaster-groupe-94r-h7-l4-730-adf-0109400p.html
Costco Canada has one - warehouse only - for $155 (Kirkland Signature group H7). Check with their battery selector :

Manufacturer Information

 

Try this link: P0456 Chrysler - EVAP System Small Leak

 

Just want to echo Mark's comments. You are due for a new battery as it is, so buying one now would be the prudent thing to do even if the problem turns out to be something else, which I doubt is the case.

 

Yep, still thinking battery as well...We see this everyday.

 

Whatever happened here?

 

They don't always come back...

 

So sorry, thought I did reply that it did not fix my issue. Battery was replaced and everything was cleaned up. Issue persists. Waiting to bring it in and will update with answer once I have one since I can see that this is an issue that others have had too

 

So when you turn the key, it acts like it is in gear? So everything works electrically as it would without the engine running and the you go to crank and nothing, right? Are all of the lights (no lights dim), indicators, whatever the same except the engine won't start? Does anything change during crank?

Just trying to make sure we understand here.

 

No, it's like there is no key in the ignition. No lights, no radio... Nothing. No click like it's trying to start.... Absolutely nothing at all. I can start the car with the remote start but when I go to get in the car and put my key in th ignition with the starter running nothing happens. I have pinned the issue down to one of two things, the ignition itself of an RFID chip issue with the key, but that is less likely since I can start it remotely. Just waiting to get it in

 

Once you remote start it, can you put the key/button to run and drive the car?


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Once you remote start it, can you put the key/button to run and drive the car?


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Hmmm. A quote from her last post :

I can start the car with the remote start but when I go to get in the car and put my key in th ignition with the starter running nothing happens.

Think she meant engine running. This would mean : remote start works, but insert fob and nothing happens, can't drive away.

 

If that’s the case Mark I’d be leaning towards the ignition switch (push button or whatever) being bad or the FOBs. Either way likely best to head to the dealer...


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Unfortunately I only have one as I bought it second hand

 

Well that's scary, whoever has the other key can steal your car anytime they want.
Get 2 new FOBs programmed for YOU so the other FOB will no longer work.
OK, so I am a little paranoid, just saying.
I put name tags on my key chains addressed to my Jeep dealer service department with the last 8 characters of my VIN so if somebody returns my keys I can be found.
Sure don't want the bad guys to know where I live if they have my FOB.

 

You did replace the fob battery, right? The fob battery is in correctly? I know my local Battery+ store has a FOB tester, Ace hardware as well...


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I have not yet but battery will not affect my car starting, and as I said I can use the emote start to start it I just can't use the key

 

Dumb question time: did you try removing the steel key from the fob and try just that in the ignition? I've never done that, but it seems like an alternative that Jeep provides in an emergency.

You can unlock it and remove if from the fob.

 

Dumb question time: did you try removing the steel key from the fob and try just that in the ignition? I've never done that, but it seems like an alternative that Jeep provides in an emergency.

You can unlock it and remove if from the fob.

I have to use the fob to start my KL (no keyless). The ignition switch only has a small rectangular opening for the fob's tip.
The metal key is there to unlock the doors when/if the fob battery or electric unlock fails. Front doors still have old school locks.

 

Could be a dead cell in the battery. It can appear fine, but have a shop or parts store do a load test on it. Personal experience with my 2015 TH, batteries last about 2 years. I am on my 3rd battery at 65,000 miles.

 

Hi.

Post #16 : battery has just been replaced. No change.

 

Post #16 : battery has just been replaced. No change.
[/QUOTE]

Mark's right, that's not it in this case.

If the vehicle starts with the remote start, but not with the fob, then the fob becomes the true suspect, right? They aren't cheap and it's too bad she can't obtain the duplicate. Does it have to be the dealer that programs the fob?

 

If the vehicle starts with the remote start, but not with the fob, then the fob becomes the true suspect, right? They aren't cheap and it's too bad she can't obtain the duplicate. Does it have to be the dealer that programs the fob?

I admit my curiousity is totally piqued. Remote start requires a working fob, but... could it just be half broken ? lol. If I had to guess.... I'd go with a faulty ignition.

 

Batteries +, Ace hardware by me have FOB testers. I thought Batteries+ had a sign stating they could program FOB’s as well, but not positive on that...


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This is an ignition switch issue. The rf hub is receiving and following through with all remote commands. If the rf hub wasn’t recognizing the fob when used in the ignition, it would kick out a “wrong key fob”, or “key fob not detected” message. The batteries in the fob are not needed at all to start the vehicle. Since there’s zero response at all, it’s a faulty wireless ignition node. Sometimes they slowly go bad when people use a lot of keys attached to the fob, adding weight and torque to the node. That’s probably why it’ll finally start after multiple tries, or when you wiggle the fob around while turning the switch.

 

I've got a lot of keys attached... need to re-assess. Thx for the reminder.

 

This is really helpful information and I'll bet my fob weighs just south of 2 pounds.

 

I did it. Today. After a few decades of carrying a heavy load of keys, I've cut it down to house key + mini flashlight. Wow, I barely feel them in my pocket...

 

It was indeed the key, not the ignition. Faulty chip. Problem is now solved and I got my car back today!

 

That's great to hear - congratulations!

You have two fob's now, right?

 

That's great to hear - congratulations!

You have two fob's now, right?

Yes I do haha. One paid for by the dealership who neglected to fiv me two

 

Hey, there's nothing wrong with that, and yes, they should do that, but that isn't the way it always works. Hopefully, you won't have that issue (or any other) again.