[Gary Kline]

Yes, I will probably do both sides. But I thought about it, I got this Jeep about two years ago, there is a chance that the left bank was already replaced and this is why they behave differently. I will check it, after I handle "the bolt" 🙄

Hey @Assi,

• Regarding "the bolt" on the Bank 2, see this post. Detailed instructions on how to get that head cover off without disconnecting the A/C lines, etc.

https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/3030120/ (note, it's post #14 if the link doesn't take you to it correctly)

 

[Gary Kline]

Another thing, the 2 solenoids on the right bank are wet from oil. I guess they are leaking (not 100% sure, might be from the valve cover, or the timing cover).
Is this the gasket, the inner circle ? I tried to pull it but it doesn't move. Or?

View attachment 235237 View attachment 235239

• It's normal to have oil on the inside (silver piece) of the actuator solenoid since it's inside the valve cover.
• Yes also, that's a gasket to keep the oil from seeping out around the actuator. If I recall correctly, you can purchase that separately if it's flattened or letting oil drip outside.

Note one other thing....

• Even though the manual says to do it, you do not need to remove the actuators/solenoids to get the valve cover off. Both covers can come off with them in place. (you need to unplug the wires from them of course).
• You do need to remove the PCV valve when removing the Bank 1 cover. There is no way to get that cover off with the PCV valve in place.

 

[Assi]

• It's normal to have oil on the inside (silver piece) of the actuator solenoid since it's inside the valve cover.
• Yes also, that's a gasket to keep the oil from seeping out around the actuator. If I recall correctly, you can purchase that separately if it's flattened or letting oil drip outside.

Note one other thing....

• Even though the manual says to do it, you do not need to remove the actuators/solenoids to get the valve cover off. Both covers can come off with them in place. (you need to unplug the wires from them of course).
• You do need to remove the PCV valve when removing the Bank 1 cover. There is no way to get that cover off with the PCV valve in place.

I already removed the PCV valve and the 4 solenoids....🙂 I will try tomorrow to do the cuts that you suggested (maybe with a drill or saw or cutter - will find the way...).
The 2 solenoids on the right bank were wet (on the outside) and the two on the left bank were dry. Just wanted to know if someone changed them, they seem to be stuck or glued there.

 

[Gary Kline]

I already removed the PCV valve and the 4 solenoids....🙂 I will try tomorrow to do the cuts that you suggested (maybe with a drill or saw or cutter - will find the way...).
The 2 solenoids on the right bank were wet (on the outside) and the two on the left bank were dry. Just wanted to know if someone changed them, they seem to be stuck or glued there.

Oh, if oily on the outside, then the seals are compressed and should be replaced or if you couldn't get/find the seals, you can always use some black RTV like you use in the two spots on the head when putting the cover back on and make a gasket seal around the solenoids. If you take off the cover in the future it's not a problem because the solenoids can stay in.

 

[Gary Kline]

I already removed the PCV valve and the 4 solenoids....🙂 I will try tomorrow to do the cuts that you suggested (maybe with a drill or saw or cutter - will find the way...).
The 2 solenoids on the right bank were wet (on the outside) and the two on the left bank were dry. Just wanted to know if someone changed them, they seem to be stuck or glued there.

And for that one bolt under the left side bracket, I just cut some of the top off it. It's unnecessarily long for no real reason. Just go slow with any cutting of course and if you need/prefer, put a thin piece of metal between what you're cutting and anything else to protect against any mistakes etc.

 

[Assi]

Oh, if oily on the outside, then the seals are compressed and should be replaced or if you couldn't get/find the seals, you can always use some black RTV like you use in the two spots on the head when putting the cover back on and make a gasket seal around the solenoids. If you take off the cover in the future it's not a problem because the solenoids can stay in.

Ok thanks.
Black RTV? Can I use red RTV?

 

[Gary Kline]

Ok thanks.
Black RTV? Can I use red RTV?

Yes, either black or red. Red is high temperature. (in fact, I always wondered why they make the red and the black when the red can really do it all...)

 

[Gary Kline]

ps: What are you still doing up?!!! It's 01:30 for you now, correct? TLV?

 

[Assi]

ps: What are you still doing up?!!! It's 01:30 for you now, correct? TLV?

Yes, these rocker arms really got me...

 

[Gary Kline]

Yes, this rocker arms really got me...

No sleep for you!

 

[Assi]

So, managed to open the bolt. Will add pictures later

 

[Assi]

.

 

[Assi]

Hey @Assi,

• Regarding "the bolt" on the Bank 2, see this post. Detailed instructions on how to get that head cover off without disconnecting the A/C lines, etc.

https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/posts/3030120/ (note, it's post #14 if the link doesn't take you to it correctly)

"the bolt" - didn't have a Dremel, but managed to do the cuts by drilling a little hole with a drill and then using a cutter.
However, it didn't help, still couldn't open the bolt. I could slide in an 8mm 1/4 socket, but it was too short to reach the nut since it is a long stud. And when I tried a deep socket, it was too long to get in.

So I went to plan B "make a hole".

I drilled a hole in front of the stud.

This is a deep socket inserted through the hole to the stud.

And open.

Note 1 - it doesn't look very nice since it was after hours of straggling with this bracket.
Note 2- not sure that I could easily drill without the bending of the bracket that I already did prior to the drilling.

@Gary Kline cutting solution looks nicer, but just to have another option if you get stuck..

 

[Gary Kline]

"the bolt" - didn't have a Dremel, but managed to do the cuts by drilling a little hole with a drill and then using a cutter.
However, it didn't help, still couldn't open the bolt. I could slide in an 8mm 1/4 socket, but it was too short to reach the nut since it is a long stud. And when I tried a deep socket, it was too long to get in.

So I went to plan B "make a hole".
View attachment 235258
View attachment 235260
I drilled a hole in front of the stud.

View attachment 235261
This is a deep socket inserted through the hole to the stud.

View attachment 235262
And open.

Note 1 - it doesn't look very nice since it was after hours of straggling with this bracket.
Note 2- not sure that I could easily drill without the bending of the bracket that I already did prior to the drilling.

@Gary Kline cutting solution looks nicer, but just to have another option if you get stuck..

Excellent! Note, what also works is an 8mm ratcheting, flex head wrench. I've used it before (because yes, it's generally too tight to get a socket on). An 8mm ratcheting, flex head will fit between the space between the top of the bolt and the bracket. What ever works!

Note either way, cut down the bolt length so it's not an issue in the future. Waaaaayyy to long for no purpose!

Nice job again!!

 

[abdulhakeem8042]

I HAVE A GRAND CHEROKEE 5.7 L, I HAD TAKE HEAD WORK BECUASE OF OVER HEATING, AND FIXED IT FROM LAITH AND REASSMEBLED THE ENGINE PROPERLY, AFTER FIXING THE PARTS THERE IS MISFIRE FROM 1st CYLINDER , WHY THIS IS HAPPENNING...? CAN ANY ONE HELP...

 

[Flybynightcru]

I HAVE A GRAND CHEROKEE 5.7 L, I HAD TAKE HEAD WORK BECUASE OF OVER HEATING, AND FIXED IT FROM LAITH AND REASSMEBLED THE ENGINE PROPERLY, AFTER FIXING THE PARTS THERE IS MISFIRE FROM 1st CYLINDER , WHY THIS IS HAPPENNING...? CAN ANY ONE HELP...

You will get much better help on the Grand Cherokee forum. This is the smaller KL Cherokee forum, and they're completely different vehicles We don't have V8's...Try here...😉

https://www.jeepgarage.org/forums/grand-cherokee-wk2.73/

 

[Jharr]

Good evening all,
I am currently working on a 2016 with the 3.2L my brother drove it with the dreaded tick for far too long the cams are trashed. I am struggling to find replacement, I can find them for the 3.6 all day but not for the 3.2. Do you have any sourcing suggestions for all 4 in a kit or from one place? I appreciate any and all guidance that can be given!

 

[Gary Kline]

Good evening all,
I am currently working on a 2016 with the 3.2L my brother drove it with the dreaded tick for far too long the cams are trashed. I am struggling to find replacement, I can find them for the 3.6 all day but not for the 3.2. Do you have any sourcing suggestions for all 4 in a kit or from one place? I appreciate any and all guidance that can be given!

Hey @Jharr ,

Sorry to hear about this. You're doing your brother a big favor, he owes you!!!

RockAuto is probably your best bet. Note you're probably already aware of this but 3.6 cams are different from the 3.2's and cannot be interchanged.

• When your'e ready to do the job, read through this post on removing the front (Bank 2) valve cover. Will save a lot of frustration or doing other things (e.g. evacuate the A/C) needlessly. https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/th...ds/removing-v6-front-left-bank-valve-cover.248991/?post_id=3015417#post-3015417

• Also, if you've never done these before, go on YouTube and search "Motor City Mechanic" (Dave Pike) and watch his videos for changing the rocker arms for the Pentastar 3.2/3.6 engine. Best videos out there by far on exactly the process nice and clearly explained.

Good luck!

 

[Brenton350]

Wait a minute,

Hey brother, did you ever figure out your issue? I’m fighting this exact issue myself. The P0016 code, etc. I’m at my wits end and simply don’t have the funds to take it to my dealer or mechanic if I’m being honest.

 

[Gary Kline]

Hey brother, did you ever figure out your issue? I’m fighting this exact issue myself. The P0016 code, etc. I’m at my wits end and simply don’t have the funds to take it to my dealer or mechanic if I’m being honest.

Hi @Brenton350 ,

Welcome from NY to the Forum. Can you tell us which Cherokee you have? (year, trim, engine, powertrain type (e.g. FWD, AD1, AD2)

Also, you didn't mention any work being done on your Cherokee so this code just came up on it's own, correct?