This is one of many ways: https://gm-techlink.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/GM_TechLink_24_Mid-December_2020.pdf
There are several YouTube videos.
Refer to this Thread among others: https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/parasitic-battery-drain-check.242775/#post-2972223
If no lights are ON and you don't have a dash cam or something drawing current all the time you should be normal.
Dome lights, glove box light, trunk lights and a really strange one: brake lights.
The 12V outlet in the trunk can be turned on permanently so see if something is plugged in there.
Visually inspect the engine compartment for rodent damage (chewed wiring).
I have learned that I need to charge my battery every 4 or 5 days if I don't drive during that time. I have a 2014, yours will be even worse.
When you install a new battery it needs to be completely charged with an AGM battery charger. The Cherokee charging system is not enough.
Make sure the battery clamps are securely monted.
You will need a really good battery charger, as in expensive.
Refer to: https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/battery-tender-questions.248892/#post-3013780 Post #5.
Refer to: https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/harbor-freight-battery-load-tester-16.250155/#post-3034789 Post #5. A $16 battery tester works for me.

Refer to this Post: https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/power-down-current-draw.185434/#post-2137914 Compare the results with your tests.

 

Lick the battery terminals. ...... no, do not do that.

There is always a draw, otherwise you would not have a standby system waiting for commands nor a security system. Do you have excessive parasitic draw? Not enough information to say.

Was your Jeep sitting in an airport parking lot for 3 weeks with squirrels jumping on it to set off the alarm and then the battery died? Or were you driving it daily?

The alternator/generator can "test" fine and still not properly charge/maintain a battery due to a bad cable/connection (I would have more faith in the test if they did something a bit more useful than pull out the voltmeter).

As an aside, AlphaODB should be able to provide information on the current draw and alternator/generator feed for your system. Or I think it should, a different tool gives this information.

@sanghill gives good information on what you specifically asked.

 

The only way to accurately measure the current draw is to stick an appropriately sized ammeter in series with the power and monitor it through the various sleep stages the Cherokee goes through. Just walking up to the Cherokee with the key fob in your pocket will change the draw!

The 2019 has a very large parasitic draw. Mine is on the order of about 3 amps per week. So three weeks without charging is around 10 amps. A lot? No. But that puts the battery at about 90% SoC (roughly). This brings us to the second problem. All Cherokees are particularly finicky when it comes to battery health. If mine sits for 3 weeks without a charge, I'll at least get warning lights, some non-sensical warning messages, and for sure a "Stop/Start Not Ready - Battery Charging" that seems to last for 100 miles. That's why many of us use trickle chargers when we know the car is going to be sitting for a while.

If this is a car that sits in the airport parking lot for weeks, I don't have a solution.

 

If this is a car that sits in the airport parking lot for weeks, I don't have a solution.

If you want a member of my family's solution, they use a nightswitch. Be prepared for the side effects if you choose that route.

Edit: Like this, and no joke.

 

Not sure what you mean by 'amps per week'. Amps is usually a term for measuring the instantaneous flow of current. If you are saying to have a continuous 3 amp draw at rest, that's a lot.

If you mean 3 amp/hours over the course of a week, that only about 0.018 amps continuous, which is acceptable for a modern vehicle.

Yes, Amp-Hours. But what I was really attempting to drive at is how sensitive the KL is to even slight battery degradation.

I'm sure he meant 3AH (not an electrics guy, but shouldn't such a draw be shown in W.hr instead ? Oh well don't mind me...). Anyway yeah 18 milliamps is nothing to worry about. Plenty more juice from a fully charged 80AH battery.

We had a member here (a former Mod) who did a fancy draw test on his 2015 KL :

https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/power-down-current-draw.185434/

Wh is an easy conversion from Ah, but the problem with Wh (volts x amps) is as the voltage drops over time as the battery discharges, the watts also drop assuming that the Ah draw is relatively constant. It is entirely possible that the Ah draw increases as the battery discharges (constant watts) which actually accelerates the rate of degradation of the battery.

If Rojhan's calculations are correct, that's 0.035Ah x 24 hours = 0.84Ah/day x 7 days = 5.88Ah per week (assuming constant Ah draw). That means my 3Ah estimate is way low for my 2019. Probably is.

My calculations? Disclaimer: nowhere near "accurate". I estimated my loss based on the highly inaccurate but widely published voltage drop approximation of an AGM SoC. I.e. 12.8vdc 100% SoC, 12.6vdc 75% Soc, 12.4vdc 50% SoC, 12.0vdc 25% SoC, and 11.8vdc effectively discharged. My battery reads 12.8vdc when fully charged so I'm good there. It read 12.7vdc after 3 weeks when I had trouble. Since the vdc drop and SoC is linear to around 50% SoC, I figured it was about 1/2 way between 75% and 100%, or somewhere in the neighborhood of 85% SoC. I believe the OEM battery had a 75Ah reserve capacity, so 85% * 75Ah = 10.875Ah lost over three weeks. 10.875Ah / 3 weeks = 3.626Ah, so being conservative "about 3Ah".

1) Vdc vs SoC loss is a generalized approximation. 2) 12.7vdc was "about" 12.7vdc - maybe 12.74, maybe 12.65. Don't actually remember. 3) 3 weeks was "about" 21 days. Could have been 18. Maybe it was 24.

Dubious starting information + highly precise calculations + rounding down to be conservative = junk data. Again, the point is not so much the exact parasitic draw, it's how sensitive the KL is to even slight battery degradation. I mean, really? 12.7+/-0.05vdc is enough to cause flakey stuff to start happening? At least it was in mine.

BTW - I would never attempt to put any meter rated at 10A +/- 2% that didn't have a current shunt when an accidental surge ("I didn't mean to start it!") would in all probability pretty much vaporize the multimeter! ...not to mention the resulting fire.

 

cough cough ... rather far too technical for everyone but the 5 of us who actually understand it, the rest went to instant doom scrolling

Personally I am impressed by most people if they can identify the battery when the hood is open.

But yes there is a triangle, however you choose to look at it can find or identify what you want. One can chase parasitic draw all day if they want and not find anything. For vehicles, current monitoring is best a long duration measure which is why the was mention of the computer: there are built-in shunts that monitor the system and will show abnormalities with reference levels.

For a vehicle, to find a bad current draw, the triangle says R will tell you what you need to know, V might verify it or at least give an indicator, I is a significant amount of work that will not identify anything without one of the others.

There is the caveat that if you do not have a decent meter/scope/dsm, it will make no difference.

What is written in the posts above is fine. It does omit any mention of the #1 source of the problem, somewhere way back someone mentioned cable/connector. If you are really keen and know what AWG is, there are charts and calculators to tell you what R should be.

Edit: Almost a battery fill!

 

There are you tube videos on parasitic draws on jeep cherokees. you could try that or google on how to do a parasitic draw on your cherokee

 

check your bank statement? sorry couldn't resist

 

rumrunner, "25 miles northwest of Boston" I'm about 50 miles south of Boston

 

excellent! ever take your Cherokee to the beaches on the Cape?

 

To test for a parasitic draw, you should disconnect the negative battery terminal and place an amp meter between the disconnected negative terminal and the battery post. This will allow you to measure the current draw. If you see a draw after the vehicle has powered down, you can start pulling fuses one by one to identify the circuit causing the issue. Since your 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk has already had its battery and alternator checked, this method should help pinpoint the parasitic drain.