That would be a complete waste of money. That will not fix anything. Further more you would need to have the PCM programmed at the dealer back to your vehicles specifications and VIN number.

The stalling problem isn't because of a bad computer it's because of something else.

If you really want one look for a spare one on ebay, but again be prepared to spend money at the dealership having them reprogram it and charge you money for doing that.

 

Once upon a time a long time ago my Oldsmobile did the same thing.
It ended up being the fuel pressure regulator releasing fuel pressure in the fuel rail.
Then the fuel vaporizes and you have to wait for the engine to cool off.
You didn't say if the engine had been running, shut off and then restarted while it was hot.
If this isn't the case then ignore my comment.
A fuel injector leaking will do the same thing.
The dealer should be able to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and determine if it loosing pressure.
Apparently you aren't getting any codes so you need to determine if the problem is mechanical, electrical or software.
As usual I am betting it is the battery.
When it stalls and you try to restart does the engine crank or do just the dash lights come on or what?
My 2014 TH V6 has never done what you describe.
My guess is you can only get a computer from FCA or a junk yard.
If you get a used computer from a vehicle it may not be possible to reprogram it to your vehicle.
Hopefully you can post the real solution to this problem.

 

The computer is programmed to the vin# plug and play. Several companies and lots of reviews.
Battery has 12. 6 volts turns over normal and won't start. Does seem to happen more in the hottest part of the day ambient temp.

 

I think you might be on a good track. I had similar issue with my BMW X3. It stoppped starting interminently. At the beginning it started every second time, then 3rd, then after a couple of months it started once every 50 times etc. Funny thing was once it started it was fine until the car was cold again. Totally bizarre. I started inspecting things. First attention went to fuel pump. I noticed it wasn't starting (I could hear it when it was runing before the engine started). It was checked doing short connection and turned to be ok even when cold. Then I checked it's power relay, even replaced it as I though that must be it. It wasn't. Then I was suspecting ECM. What I have done might be funny, but that actually allowed me to discover if it was faulty. I fried it in the oven, yes! Started with 100 celcius for 20 minutes, then checked it in the car. After first cooking everything went to normal. That lasted for a month then it started again, same symptoms, every 2nd time, 3rd and so on. Cooked it again with 150 celcius and it was fixed once more, of course not for long but that experiment made me 100% sure that was ECM problem. I bought some second hand one and it's ok since then. Most likely ECM had cold solder joints.

 

Mine actually seems to be when it's hot outside. In Florida we had cloudy weather for 2 weeks and never happened. I have driven 100s of miles in the morning no problem. Park in my parking lot blacktop on a hot afternoon and almost immediately stalls. Neve once has happened in the morning.

 

Hi there,

Hmm. More when it's hot outside ? Hmmm. Florida ? Hmmmm. Sounds like heat soak to me. It that the original battery ? If so, it's probably dying, internal resistance goes way up in hot temps. When you say "12.6V", how/when was that measured ? Directly at the battery posts, after a long rest, nothing On ?
Regardless, I think you should have that battery load tested. If you can, get a printout of the results, sharing them here could help, too. Good luck, and keep us posted.


Edit to correct : battery's internal resistance doesn't increase in warmer temps, but a diminished battery has higher internal resistance, and that causes the battery to heat up and also capacity/output to drop substantially.

 

I really appreciate all the input. The battery test 12. 4 to 12.6 when it happens at battery everything off with a good volt meter. 1 year old battery test numerous times under load test always good. Can't get warranty on a good battery may just buy one anyway in case it's a weird intermittent short?
I'll by an OBD reader any suggestions. Does it need to log data not just read it. This never throws a code and Jeep has had thier fancy tablet reader hooked up while this was happening and they couldn't see anything.. But again I'll try anything so recommendations on a reader and I'll buy today. Thank you.

 

Got a bluedriver data logger. Not sure what I'm looking for? Mode 6? Live reports? It is now stalling like crazy typical heat of the day. Shift into reverse and stalls you can see all the on the report when it happens. Anyone have any insight on what I should be looking for.

 

Do you know if the Dealer ever checked fuel pressure for bleed down after a hot soak condition? Based on your description and no fault codes, that would be my first check.