Normal. I had same question years ago

 

Normal. The carrier bearings in the middle of the shaft were an issue on the earlier KLs though. Does your noise change if you put it in snow mode?

 

I’ve heard of some people saying the noise changes in different modes from auto I’ll try that on the way to the dealer tomorrow. Have to pickup some RDM gear oil as I’m doing a flush and fill back there

 

I've had carrier bearings replaced. keep the car, work the problems

 

Tires were rebalanced and it helps some but still notice vibration. Also noticed a giant thud from the driveline when slowing down then letting off the brake, almost a bit of a lurch too when going downhill. I JUST had rockers, lifters, cams replaced. Since then I’ve also noticed poor acceleration compared to what I used to get even with chewed cams lol. Seems like the responsiveness is slow. Wondering if the TCM/PCM needs a relearn? Have checked and no play in driveshaft

 

Wow, sorry to hear. The question is... is that all there is or more... Did a few pieces of one of the gears break off, drifted in the oil until the magnet caught it or is there lots more in the sump (or more waiting to happen. Sorry @dhoey1212

I don’t know, but I had to fill with multiple pumps

hard to see almost looks like chunks not specs of metal. but that can’t be

@Gary Kline @rumrunner

4 chunks of metal, I’m sure there’s probably more in the bottom of the diff. Going to be looking at the toyota dealership tomorrow, see how much they offer me on trade.

 

I don’t know, but I had to fill with multiple pumps


View attachment 244654

@Gary Kline @rumrunner

4 chunks of metal, I’m sure there’s probably more in the bottom of the diff. Going to be looking at the toyota dealership tomorrow, see how much they offer me on trade.

yeah get a 4Runner

rear end spewing chunks? who needs the headache if you have the means to make a change but I’m guessing you’re on a ticking clock

 

Had to go through almost 3/4 quart to get both sides refilled. Not sure how it was so low when I’ve checked religiously for leaking and have never seen anything.

 

And no leak on the driver's side where the axle exits? (the usual "RDM weep" spot)

 

As I figured warranty company won’t help. I’m pondering training it in while it doesn’t have any lights or looking at used RDMs, a new unit isn’t in the budget for me.

 

Got it. Well, one option might still be to disconnect the propshaft and pull the fuses. If the grinding noise still happens, then that might mean trade-in time because it could be parts in the RDM that free spin with the wheels are making the noise (e.g. bearings and/or differential which are still in operation when the rear wheels spin regardless of whether 4WD/AWD is engaged). But if the sound goes away, then you have time to decide whether to trade or keep because it's probably the driveshaft bearings. It's also possible whatever broke off in the RDM broke off a long time ago and you're only seeing it now since you opened the plug. The magnet is there for this type of purpose. Either way, we're all rooting for you!!

 

I appreciate your input as always Gary, a life saver. I haven’t put the left rear wheel bearing in yet, is it worth throwing it in there to see if that whiiring noise I was having cleans up enough for a trade? So you’re saying it’s likely that the bearing where the driveshaft inserts is likely damaged? Honestly I’m guessing it may have never had much fluid in it for the 15k I’ve owned it for. Maybe those peices have been there all along. I will test drive with new fluid and advise. Between trading it in for an older 4.0 ranger with a true 4WD system and in the price ranger. Or bite the bullet and replace the RDM. Hopefully refilling the fluid gives me time to think about it

No problem at all

Yes, if you already have the wheel bearing and feel it's noisy, may as well put it in there. (when you jack up the rear driver's side and free=spin the wheel, hear anything? (though because one can only spin the wheel so-fast plus there's no weight on the hub/bearing, lack of noise doesn't necessarily mean the bearing is ok. If you've got it already, may as well replace it. And then the RDM filling you did is a must, it may have been dry and you caught it in time before serious damage set in.

After that, if you're still hear whirring but on the fence thinking of keeping it, I'd do one last thing and remove the propshaft (along with removing the fuses) and then test driving. The reason is those propshaft bearings fail on many Cherokees and when they do, they can sound like it's coming from anywhere (since they're bolted directly to the metal body). If you take the propshaft off and immediate the sound is gone, then you can either replace the propshaft (if you want to keep the Cherokee) or, by spraying enough brake cleaner into the bearing followed by spray multi purpose lubricant (e.g. PBblaster "blue" multi-purpose silicone), I've gotten the bearings to quiet down to where you could sell it/trade it.


ps: Sorry if this sounds convoluted! I just re-read what I wrote and it's probably not clear!!! LoL!

 

No problem at all

Yes, if you already have the wheel bearing and feel it's noisy, may as well put it in there. (when you jack up the rear driver's side and free=spin the wheel, hear anything? (though because one can only spin the wheel so-fast plus there's no weight on the hub/bearing, lack of noise doesn't necessarily mean the bearing is ok. If you've got it already, may as well replace it. And then the RDM filling you did is a must, it may have been dry and you caught it in time before serious damage set in.

After that, if you're still hear whirring but on the fence thinking of keeping it, I'd do one last thing and remove the propshaft (along with removing the fuses) and then test driving. The reason is those propshaft bearings fail on many Cherokees and when they do, they can sound like it's coming from anywhere (since they're bolted directly to the metal body). If you take the propshaft off and immediate the sound is gone, then you can either replace the propshaft (if you want to keep the Cherokee) or, by spraying enough brake cleaner into the bearing followed by spray multi purpose lubricant (e.g. PBblaster "blue" multi-purpose silicone), I've gotten the bearings to quiet down to where you could sell it/trade it.


ps: Sorry if this sounds convoluted! I just re-read what I wrote and it's probably not clear!!! LoL!

I’ve jacked up 2 days ago and taken all brake hardware off, this is the sound I got which made me think wheel bearing chasing my noise. I was simply doing fluid fill as a preventative item because other people have checked 1/2 times per year and I figured it’s time. Turned out to be more. I understand what you’re saying completely. I may try your prop shaft method backwards, spray with brake clear and silicone lube and see if it goes away, if not remove and see if it goes away. If propshaft is also bad that may motivate me more to the trade option. There are 2 bearings that I should try spraying, If I remember correctly it’s a sort of 3 section part? I also just spent 5-6k on whole new top end and oil cooler job so I’m at a loss here not sure which way to go. This is my second cherokee and both have left me high and dry all while doing lots of preventative maintenance (the stuff everyone says should prevent these problems like synthetic oil every 4k and checking fluids often, that’s just my luck I guess )

 

Has anyone experienced a “remanufactured” unit. Thought they were unserviceable internally. I keep seeing this one on ebay and other sources. Says 3 sold and includes a 2 year warranty. I’m skeptical but would love opinions. I have a buddy that’s a mechanic and has done one on a Chrysler 200 before. Said it was a B*%#! of a job but could probably do it for me at his shop after hours if we find a part. ebay part