[MaineHawk]

I also recently did a drain and fill in my transmission. I did get a transmission fluid analysis as well, which was from Blackstone Labs just to be a bit proactive. Yes, it’s a “lifetime” fluid, but it never hurts changing it. According to my fluid analysis insolubles were a bit higher than they would prefer, but they said typically that just indicates it was a good time for a fluid change. Other than that all of the other wear metals actually looked well. Just my two cents, but someone with a Chrysler Pacifica changed their fluid every 50–60k miles and the original transmission lasted over 400k miles. Clearly it doesn’t hurt anything.

I did use the Amsoil Signature Series (must be the fuel efficient), and the PN interchanges with the Mopar/Chrysler PN. It also has much better resistance to oxidation and temperature extremes compared to the Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed Fluid.

Prior to changing to fluid I did drive it for maybe 15 minutes at most. Some will say to change it at room temperature and other will tell you to drive it and then change it. I just followed instructions according to the Hayne’s manual. As long as you measure the amount that comes out, and put said almond back in you’re good to go.

I jacked mine up and used jack stands being sure it was even all around. My jack stands are a bit large, so I had to use the area where a lift would typically be placed (I found that it supports it much better than the pinch-weld). Plus no risk of damaging said pinch-weld. Somewhat related, I purchased a Daytona jack cross beam (link below), and it makes life so much easier. Less hassle when jacking it up, and if you rotate your own tires just get it! I did remove the front driver wheel to make the process easier (the fill plug is a bit of a pain).

As other posters have mentioned the drain (8mm hex) and fill (6mm hex) plugs are different sizes, so be sure you have all of the correct tools available prior to doing it. It wouldn’t be a good day draining your transmission fluid out and then being unable to fill it again.

As I mentioned before I used the Amsoil Signature Series, and conveniently they sell a pump for the gallon and quart bottles which is what I used. The fill hole is a bit smaller, so I did have to get smaller tubing and use a hose clamp between the two. I’ll have a picture of that apparatus below. Pictures last longer and after all it was such fun (sarcasm)! I could not find one of these spiffy funnels, so to each their own. You do have to keep in mind the amount of fluid in the tubing and compensate accordingly. Once filled to desire level and the fill plug back in I started it, and shifted through the gears just to circulate the fluid, then test drive! No issues whatsoever afterwards.

I would highly recommend the transmission fluid analysis, especially if you’re kind of leery. It’s only $35, they’re based in Indiana. I will also have that link below. I’ll list a link for the Amsoil fluid as well, and they also have a data sheet with some good information.

View attachment 223137

Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam

Oil sample | Blackstone Laboratories

https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf

Great info. How many miles on the Jeep? The analysis of your fluid was good except for insolubles, I assume wear products? Did the fluid degrade as far as other specs? I did mine at 52K and it was dark. The ZF fluid new is so thin, it probably would not take much to make it dark.

 

[j3r3myCs]

Great info. How many miles on the Jeep? The analysis of your fluid was good except for insolubles, I assume wear products? Did the fluid degrade as far as other specs? I did mine at 52K and it was dark. The ZF fluid new is so thin, it probably would not take much to make it dark.

Mine had 49k (almost 50k miles) when I did the drain and fill. Everything else about the sample was good thankfully! They actually said currently their average is about 58k miles on a ZF 9 speed. Mine was somewhat dark, but I wouldn’t say terrible. You can take a peep at the report if you would like. 🙂

 

[j3r3myCs]

@j3r3myCs did you happen to notice what the factory fluid smells like? To me, smelled like Maxlife. That one of a kind vomit smell lol.

It definitely didn’t smell pleasant, but I wouldn’t say terrible. Lol

 

[Tico007]

I measured today. 2 drain and fills a week apart. Choosing the aluminum colored dipstick seemed like a good idea. For the dirty fluid, yes. For clean fluid, the fill line is nearly invisible on the stick. The level for 159F looks about right..

 

[Gary Kline]

I measured today. 2 drain and fills a week apart. Choosing the aluminum colored dipstick seemed like a good idea. For the dirty fluid, yes. For clean fluid, the fill line is nearly invisible on the stick. The level for 159F looks about right..

I ordered the aluminum-colored one off Amazon and when I got it, it was so difficult to read I sent it back. The recessed numbering on the satin aluminum surface was nearly invisible. I've got 57-year old eyes so a younger person may not have this issue but to me, it was waaay too hard to read. I found a contrasting black/aluminum one that is MUCH better (but again, I'm old 🤣 )

 

[Gary Kline]

Hi @Tico007 , one question... You mentioned that the lines were marked for 159deg F. The chart below is what I got from a ZF diagram. Is this correct? It doesn't seem to match up with your red marks at 10mm and 8mm?

 

[Gary Kline]

This one wins the prize for Worst Engineered Product Ever. Not only are the numbers practically invisible except at the perfect angle but can you imagine if that rod came loose and fell into your 948TE when checking the fluid level???? Can you say, "YOU'RE SCREWED"? Locktite is your best friend if you have one of these (or better yet, just throw away this accident-waiting-to-happen). Whoever thought this was a good idea is beyond me ... 😬

 

[Tico007]

This one wins the prize for Worst Engineered Product Ever. Not only are the numbers practically invisible except at the perfect angle but can you imagine if that rod came loose and fell into your 948TE when checking the fluid level???? Can you say, "YOU'RE SCREWED"? Locktite is your best friend if you have one of these (or better yet, just throw away this accident-waiting-to-happen). Whoever thought this was a good idea is beyond me ... 😬
View attachment 223229

Yep, that would be mine. I’m going to order the one you recommended.

 

[Tico007]

Hi @Tico007 , one question... You mentioned that the lines were marked for 159deg F. The chart below is what I got from a ZF diagram. Is this correct? It doesn't seem to match up with your red marks at 10mm and 8mm?

View attachment 223227

Not sure why the red marks are there. The level was at the red arrow. Right where the shine stops.

 

[Gary Kline]

Not sure why the red marks are there. The level was at the red arrow. Right where the shine stops.

Aaahhh, got it!

I didn't know you had that one, really didn't! Sorry about that... I wasn't meaning to 'diss your tester!

I've see the same one in a solid piece. All I was commenting on was the two-piece unit. If you do have the two-piece, just Locktite the top on so it can never work its way loose

 

[Tico007]

It’s OK. You’re right, I hate it. Burned my hand trying to measure over and over again. I’m going to look for the one you have.

 

[Opa]

I intended on doing this write-up when I got to 60K miles, and that time has come.

For those of you so inclined to change your transmission fluid, it is not particularly difficult. If you can change the oil, you can do this.

Stuff required:

• 3/8" ratchet handle (and ideally a torque wrench)
• 13mm socket (for the front skid plate or whatever for your plastic undercover)
• 6 and 8mm allen socket
• 3/8" u-joint
• 18" worth of socket extensions
• ~2 ft of 1/2 vinyl tubing and a funnel to attach it to
• Dipstick 10323a or equivalent
• 8 quarts of Mopar 8/9 speed ATF
• Drain container (5 quarts at least) and some way to accurately measure the amount of fluid that comes out

I was hoping that at least half of the fluid would come out through the drain plug, and sure enough, it did. I got almost exactly 3.375 quarts out. That's 53% of the 6.35-quart capacity. Do a drain/fill twice, and you'll change out about 80% of the old fluid. Technically this uses ~7 quarts of new fluid but gets 8 to be safe. You could keep going with a 3rd round, but that gets expensive for diminishing returns (92% of the total).

My fluid wasn't as gross-looking as the picture makes it out to be... when pouring, the stream wasn't cloudy at all. It just had a brown-gray tinge to it.

View attachment 200678
View attachment 200680
View attachment 200682

Procedure:

• Drive around a little to warm things up. I got mine up to 105 trans temp; don't want it too hot.
• Lift the front of the vehicle. Ramps are easiest since it's a pain to use a jack and stands on this vehicle.
• Remove the front skid plate/undercover (13mm bolts x7).
• Get your 8mm allen socket and catch container. Get the container close to the drain plug; the fluid is pretty watery.
• Remove the drain plug (pic attached) and let it drain. I let it drip for 30 minutes or so.
• Reinstall the drain plug. 26 ft/lbs torque.
• Clean around then remove the fill plug (pic attached) with the 6mm allen and extensions/u-joint. On the v6 it's easy enough to reach, down past the heater hoses to the left of the brake booster.
• Attach vinyl tubing to the funnel and stick the end in the fill hole.
• Measure how much old fluid came out
• Put that much new fluid in and reinstall fill plug; 17 ft/lbs.
• Drive around a little to mix things up well. Don't get it too hot though.
• Repeat the drain/measure/refill procedure, then go ahead and reinstall the skid plate
• Check fluid level and adjust as necessary:

The fluid level isn't going to be perfect even with measuring, as warm fluid came out and cold went in, but it should be close. Google the procedure for checking the level in a 948TE; several out there include the chart for temperature vs. level. It isn't much different than checking the level in an old automatic... get it warm and check the level while idling in park. With this one, you have to pay attention to the trans temperature and the specific level on the dipstick. This does mean reaching down to the fill plug to remove it and insert the dipstick with the engine warm, so be careful. Also, I don't know what to tell you if you don't have trans temperature available on your cluster display... not sure what scan tools can read it.

Where do you get the 8/9 speed trans fluid? Dealer told me they don't sell it because the oil is "lifetime". I asked what is lifetime? Answer: When the transmission fails.

 

[j3r3myCs]

Where do you get the 8/9 speed trans fluid? Dealer told me they don't sell it because the oil is "lifetime". I asked what is lifetime? Answer: When the transmission fails.

Here’s the Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed fluid PN: 68218925AB

You can order it online, just type in the PN. There’s a few other alternatives to the Mopar fluid. I went with the Amsoil, better resistance to oxidation and temperature extremes. Also saved a few bucks in the process. I’ll also attach the Mopar chemical catalog. Good luck!
https://www.moparrepairconnect.com/dA/cbbee9e319/1613_ChemicalCatalog_Final.pdf

 

[MaineHawk]

Where do you get the 8/9 speed trans fluid? Dealer told me they don't sell it because the oil is "lifetime". I asked what is lifetime? Answer: When the transmission fails.

I used the ZF Lifeguard 8, which the same as the Mopar 8/9. I happened to catch it at $16 per liter.

 

[Tico007]

So it’s been a while. The fluid change to a full synthetic was definitely helpful. The fifth gear clunk was much smoother and less rough. But it wasn’t cured. A month ago I brought it in under extended warranty. Told them about it and some information I found about programming. The dealership upgraded the programming of the TCM and the PCM to the latest part numbers. They said in most cases that was the fix. I left there hoping for the best.

The shifting was different. Quicker. Would appear that they are moving around the shift points for whatever reason. It was getting through fifth gear without a clunk for about two weeks. And then… There it was again. Minor but still there. It only happens under certain conditions which unfortunately, I can’t avoid. Get to the top of a hill going 35 in 4th gear. As I go over the top, I’m waiting for it to shift. It keeps revving. Let off the gas as I go over the hill and start to decline. And that’s when it happens. Boink! It’s not terrible anymore but it’s super annoying.

So, I give up. I use manual to and from the house, auto everywhere else. I can manually shift from 4th and 5th and it won’t do that. I’m sure all the gears are great for crawling. It’s great on the highway. But for my conditions which are 8 miles of 30-40mph roller coaster winding roads to my house, it’s pure torture for the Cherokee.

 

[osimj]

So it’s been a while. The fluid change to a full synthetic was definitely helpful. The fifth gear clunk was much smoother and less rough. But it wasn’t cured. A month ago I brought it in under extended warranty. Told them about it and some information I found about programming. The dealership upgraded the programming of the TCM and the PCM to the latest part numbers. They said in most cases that was the fix. I left there hoping for the best.

The shifting was different. Quicker. Would appear that they are moving around the shift points for whatever reason. It was getting through fifth gear without a clunk for about two weeks. And then… There it was again. Minor but still there. It only happens under certain conditions which unfortunately, I can’t avoid. Get to the top of a hill going 35 in 4th gear. As I go over the top, I’m waiting for it to shift. It keeps revving. Let off the gas as I go over the hill and start to decline. And that’s when it happens. Boink! It’s not terrible anymore but it’s super annoying.

So, I give up. I use manual to and from the house, auto everywhere else. I can manually shift from 4th and 5th and it won’t do that. I’m sure all the gears are great for crawling. It’s great on the highway. But for my conditions which are 8 miles of 30-40mph roller coaster winding roads to my house, it’s pure torture for the Cherokee.

You asked what my point was multiple posts back, so I waited to see how it went for you . And new (not really different than what was in it ) fluid EXCEPT it’s NEW with new programming didn’t fix the transmission.
I don’t wish poor transmission performance on anyone. BUT this same situation has happened multiple times for people on this forum for many years .New program updates have reverted back to poor shifting again almost all the time.
sorry it didn’t work out better for you, but that is on FCA/Stellantis they can’t even come close to getting the shift programming anywhere near as nice as my Honda Ridgeline with an actual built by ZF 9 speed and much better programming done by Honda.
My Cherokee transmission and PTU were both junk and they could care less to help with any good customer service either

 

[Tico007]

I remember you now. Ready to argue about anything and everything. And you don’t even own a Cherokee anymore. Just here to torment people I guess.

 

[osimj]

I remember you now. Ready to argue about anything and everything. And you don’t even own a Cherokee anymore. Just here to torment people I guess.

There is a big difference between arguing and giving info from personal experience and years of seeing the same results you ended up with . But that’s fine you can feel good about wasting your money and time on expensive fluid ,and have one of the many TSB updates done that revert back to the same crappy shifting problems. Had my Cherokee for 8 years , when you have had yours that long you will be fed up with the crap you bought and the crap that the dealers and corporate do and tell you. Every update or recall only made the vehicle worse and more problematic.
I myself Would have loved to have known these things before buying or wasting my time with a KL Cherokee . Lots of us early buyers of these KL’s had to learn the hard way.
as I said to bad it didn’t work out better for your situation, but I guess since your not happy how it came out, you can say stuff to me and blame me if it makes you feel better.

 

[sanghill]

At the risk of good news: (I am normally the doom and gloom person on this Forum)
My 2014 V6 TH, factory ordered TH, built January 4, 2014, has always shifted perfectly even before all of the updates were applied.
The updates never did anything noticeable, good or bad. One update protected the C clutch snap ring, guess that is a good thing.
I don't anticipate changing the ATF unless my Jeep dealer deems it absolutely necessary.
Synthetic fluids do not seem to degrade noticeably, in the case of engine oil and coolant, the chemical additives may get neutralized, but ATF fluids do not have to deal with contamination. They tolerate heat as long as it is not excessive.
Today I did a partial replacement of coolant and brake fluid, maintains the chemical additives so I do not have to do complete transfusions. I do this several times a year so the fluids never become very contaminated.

 

[Gary Kline]

At the risk of good news: (I am normally the doom and gloom person on this Forum)
My 2014 V6 TH, factory ordered TH, built January 4, 2014, has always shifted perfectly even before all of the updates were applied.
The updates never did anything noticeable, good or bad. One update protected the C clutch snap ring, guess that is a good thing.
I don't anticipate changing the ATF unless my Jeep dealer deems it absolutely necessary.
Synthetic fluids do not seem to degrade noticeably, in the case of engine oil and coolant, the chemical additives may get neutralized, but ATF fluids do not have to deal with contamination. They tolerate heat as long as it is not excessive.
Today I did a partial replacement of coolant and brake fluid, maintains the chemical additives so I do not have to do complete transfusions. I do this several times a year so the fluids never become very contaminated.

And @sanghill, I always thought of you as a happy and cheerful guy 😂