[Tico007]

Great, thanks. I have the 140 MM tool. To answer your question I plan to do one drain and fill see what happens. Then do another one in a few months.

 

[Tico007]

Yes, it needs to be running in Park, with temperature chart adjustments to measured level. I checked it first. Temperatures at the time was in the 20s, so I had issues getting it to the temperature chart. It was at the top of the band. I drained, got 3.5 quarts out, maybe a touch more. Replaced it. Checked the level, it was just a little low, and then added a little more to adjust. Now that I know where the level is, I would be comfortable with draining and replacing without a level check. The fill plug is not as easy to get to as some would make you think (they must have long arms!). I climbed up on top, but when your arm is down there, you can't see down there anymore.

Forgot to ask, was the vehicle level or jacked up just in the front when you check the level?

 

[MaineHawk]

Forgot to ask, was the vehicle level or jacked up just in the front when you check the level?

Level on the ground. The TH is high enough that removing the skid plate and draining is no problem. Of course, nothing is easy. I dropped the fill plug and it took me 15 minutes to fish it out of the next skid plate!

 

[Tico007]

Level on the ground. The TH is high enough that removing the skid plate and draining is no problem. Of course, nothing is easy. I dropped the fill plug and it took me 15 minutes to fish it out of the next skid plate!

I ordered this metal funnel hoping I can get to the fill hole from the top.

Think this will fit?

 

[MaineHawk]

That looks good. Wish I had that when I did it. I used a tube that flowed tooo slow.

 

[Tico007]

That looks good. Wish I had that when I did it. I used a tube that flowed tooo slow.

Going to do it in the morning. I took the cover off for a look. This is the fill?

 

[MaineHawk]

No, I am not sure you have it. See the link below. It shows the location on the transmission clearly.

Gears Magazine - 948TE Checking Fluid Levels

It seems that every few months we hear of a new transmission coming to market. It’s hard to keep up with all the different transmissions and different ways of checking their fluid levels. One day soon, you may find yourself faced with a 948TE 9-speed transmission in your shop. The 948TE appears...

gearsmagazine.com

 

[Tico007]

No, I am not sure you have it. See the link below. It shows the location on the transmission clearly.

Gears Magazine - 948TE Checking Fluid Levels

It seems that every few months we hear of a new transmission coming to market. It’s hard to keep up with all the different transmissions and different ways of checking their fluid levels. One day soon, you may find yourself faced with a 948TE 9-speed transmission in your shop. The 948TE appears...

gearsmagazine.com

Thanks I see it. I was trying to follow the DIY picture at the front of this. I was turned around. Thanks for the help.

 

[Tico007]

drain and fill completed.. It was the first time so took about an hour. I was in a rush to finish before it got dark so didn’t measure with the tool. Put back exactly what came out. At 50k the fluid is cloudy with clutch material, but there was nothing significant at the bottom of the drain pan. Forgot to check if the drain bolt is magnetic. If it was, there was nothing on it. The factory fill was watery consistency compared to the Pentosin 9 which was more viscous and slippery. Went for a short ride. So far so good but too early to say it’s better. See how it is tomorrow morning in the cold and the next few days.

 

[Tico007]

Quick update. The 5th gear clunk is almost invisible. It’s quicker going into gear in the morning. Not as tight trying to shift in the cold. No confused shifting so far. It’s doing what it was designed to do. It’s not perfect but so much better. I no longer feel like it’s going to grenade itself. Performing a second drain and fill later this week. Hoping it will get even better over the coming months.

 

[MaineHawk]

Quick update. The 5th gear clunk is almost invisible. It’s quicker going into gear in the morning. Not as tight trying to shift in the cold. No confused shifting so far. It’s doing what it was designed to do. It’s not perfect but so much better. I no longer feel like it’s going to grenade itself. Performing a second drain and fill later this week. Hoping it will get even better over the coming months.

Sounds like you have alot to be happy with. I would be interested in what the fluid looks like that comes out after one drain/fill. Did you find the level was right?

 

[Tomi1980]

I have a different question. Changing the oil in the gearbox. Change Static twice or dynamic? A colleague in the service says that I need to have 15 liters of oil dynamically. ooo that's a lot. How do you change the oil in your Cherokee?

 

[Tico007]

Sounds like you have alot to be happy with. I would be interested in what the fluid looks like that comes out after one drain/fill. Did you find the level was right?

Second drain and fill completed. Still cloudy but not as bad as the first time. Shifts like butter right now. I’m going to drive it for a bit then measure. Would really like to do an exchange vs drain and fill. Exchange doesn’t blend it pumps from one end of the transmission to the other. I do it that way on my GM trucks. Need to figure out which of these two lines is the return from the cooler. Is it the black one or the white one? Once I figure that out, I can test and create a procedure.

 

[MaineHawk]

There is a bypass valve that supposedly messes that up. The cooler bypass closes when the tranny reaches operating temp. Not sure where it is located but will need to account for it.

 

[Gary Kline]

Thanks @Tico007. Your posts have been very helpful. I've never changed the trans fluid in my 2014 168k mi. TH but I've wanted to (no problems so far other than the usual ZF9 wonky shift programming we've all experienced but I don't want to wait until a problem develops). I've been hesitant to do it because the "old school" ingrained in me from the 1980s when they said never change your high-mileage trans fluid because it relies on the material in the fluid to keep from slipping but I'm learning that advice is not really applicable anymore becuase it seems like a lot of us are changing their fluid and only reporting positive results.

1. Can you confirm what sizes you used on both the drain and fill plugs?
2. For the fill plug, did you go through the engine bay from the top to get at the plug or did you remove the driver's wheel/liner and go through the side? In my engine bay, it seems like it would be very hard to do the top-down access method. I was planning on pulling the wheel. Thoughts?
3. Before your posts, I was planning to go my dealer for the Mopar fluid but from your research, it seems like the Pentosin ATF 9 is a little better (fully synthentic) vs the Mopar (blend) and I'm leaning towards that. Now that you've changed twice, do you feel the Pentosin ATF is was the way to go? Any concerns? If given the chance, would you have stayed with the Mopar or Pentosin all the way now?
4. Thanks for the tip on using a long, rigid funnel! Rubber/vinyl hoses are a pain and always seem to twist/turn eventually coming out of the hole, spilling fluid all around etc.
5. Any other recommendations? I'll probably do my first change in the next couple weeks...

Thx!

 

[MaineHawk]

Thanks @Tico007. Your posts have been very helpful. I've never changed the trans fluid in my 2014 168k mi. TH but I've wanted to (no problems so far other than the usual ZF9 wonky shift programming we've all experienced but I don't want to wait until a problem develops). I've been hesitant to do it because the "old school" ingrained in me from the 1980s when they said never change your high-mileage trans fluid because it relies on the material in the fluid to keep from slipping but I'm learning that advice is not really applicable anymore becuase it seems like a lot of us are changing their fluid and only reporting positive results.

1. Can you confirm what sizes you used on both the drain and fill plugs?
2. For the fill plug, did you go through the engine bay from the top to get at the plug or did you remove the driver's wheel/liner and go through the side? In my engine bay, it seems like it would be very hard to do the top-down access method. I was planning on pulling the wheel. Thoughts?
3. Before your posts, I was planning to go my dealer for the Mopar fluid but from your research, it seems like the Pentosin ATF 9 is a little better (fully synthentic) vs the Mopar (blend) and I'm leaning towards that. Now that you've changed twice, do you feel the Pentosin ATF is was the way to go? Any concerns? If given the chance, would you have stayed with the Mopar or Pentosin all the way now?
4. Thanks for the tip on using a long, rigid funnel! Rubber/vinyl hoses are a pain and always seem to twist/turn eventually coming out of the hole, spilling fluid all around etc.
5. Any other recommendations? I'll probably do my first change in the next couple weeks...

Thx!

With the V6, you can go from the top, but you do have to get up on top and reach an arms length to the plug. This is probably easier in the long run if you plan on checking the level after. You will need to drive it to get it hot enough to check the level. Don't drop the plug! It will get hung up in there somewhere behind a skid plate. The rigid funnel is perfect, I delt with tubing and it was a pain. I did not use Pentosin but am very curious how it works for you guys, I may use it next time . My TH has not had problems, just the occasional poor shift.

 

[Tico007]

1. Can you confirm what sizes you used on both the drain and fill plugs?

It’s the same as the original poster specified. 8mm hex for the drain. 26 ft lbs. 6mm hex for the fill 17 ft lbs. I could not get my torque wrench in to the fill plug, so I guessed. I could feel the little gasket squishing, and then it was snug, so I stopped. I purchased a kit so I could use hex on 3/8 wrench.

2. For the fill plug, did you go through the engine bay from the top to get at the plug or did you remove the driver's wheel/liner and go through the side? In my engine bay, it seems like it would be very hard to do the top-down access method. I was planning on pulling the wheel. Thoughts?

Yes remove wheel. Then go through the wheel well to loosen the fill bolt. Pulling the fender liner was not required for my 2019. Access is between the body and tie rods.

3. Before your posts, I was planning to go my dealer for the Mopar fluid but from your research, it seems like the Pentosin ATF 9 is a little better (fully synthentic) vs the Mopar (blend) and I'm leaning towards that. Now that you've changed twice, do you feel the Pentosin ATF is was the way to go? Any concerns? If given the chance, would you have stayed with the Mopar or Pentosin all the way now?

I would never say don’t follow Mopar or ZF recommendations for fluid, but I can give my opinion. Over the years changing transmission fluid on my vehicles, I have found the transmissions are not as sensitive to fluid types as manufacturers claim. It’s more of a manufacturing CYA IMO. This transmission is no exception. It’s fine with the change in fluid type. I think Pentosin is a better fluid. Especially in the cold. Even though the second drain was cloudy, the consistency was so slippery the drain bolt fell out of my hands when I took it off. Not the case with the factory fill. That was like water. I would also consider Amsoil SS if I was out of warranty. It’s red

4. Thanks for the tip on using a long, rigid funnel! Rubber/vinyl hoses are a pain and always seem to twist/turn eventually coming out of the hole, spilling fluid all around etc.
5. Any other recommendations? I'll probably do my first change in the next couple weeks...

Try to make sure the new fluid is close the same temperature as what is coming out for measuring purposes. I used a plastic gallon milk/spring water jug for measuring. After draining, I poured from the pan into the jug and marked the level drawing a line. Used the same jug with the line for the new fluid. Then poured it down the funnel little by little.

Turn the steering wheel to the left once the tire is off. Same as you would do in a brake job to get access to the caliper bolts. That moves the tie rods forward so you can get your arm in to remove the fiil bolt. Feed the metal funnel down in advance. Put it near the hole behind it. Then when you take the fill bolt out you can grab the bottom of the funnel tube and feed it into the hole. It’s a good fit. It falls in a little bit.

Measuring level is more of a challenge why I put extra effort into putting back what came out. When you are measuring assumption is the vehicle needs to be level. There’s different ways of doing that. I use two floor jacks so I’m not stuck in one position with jack stands. With the tire off I can lower the Jeep to level and still have some level of safety with two 3 ton floor jacks backing each other up. I have not done this step yet. I plan to in the next week when I have some time.

 

[Gary Kline]

1. Can you confirm what sizes you used on both the drain and fill plugs?

It’s the same as the original poster specified. 8mm hex for the drain. 26 ft lbs. 6mm hex for the fill 17 ft lbs. I could not get my torque wrench in to the fill plug, so I guessed. I could feel the little gasket squishing, and then it was snug, so I stopped. I purchased a kit so I could use hex on 3/8 wrench.

2. For the fill plug, did you go through the engine bay from the top to get at the plug or did you remove the driver's wheel/liner and go through the side? In my engine bay, it seems like it would be very hard to do the top-down access method. I was planning on pulling the wheel. Thoughts?

Yes remove wheel. Then go through the wheel well to loosen the fill bolt. Pulling the fender liner was not required for my 2019. Access is between the body and tie rods.

3. Before your posts, I was planning to go my dealer for the Mopar fluid but from your research, it seems like the Pentosin ATF 9 is a little better (fully synthentic) vs the Mopar (blend) and I'm leaning towards that. Now that you've changed twice, do you feel the Pentosin ATF is was the way to go? Any concerns? If given the chance, would you have stayed with the Mopar or Pentosin all the way now?

I would never say don’t follow Mopar or ZF recommendations for fluid, but I can give my opinion. Over the years changing transmission fluid on my vehicles, I have found the transmissions are not as sensitive to fluid types as manufacturers claim. It’s more of a manufacturing CYA IMO. This transmission is no exception. It’s fine with the change in fluid type. I think Pentosin is a better fluid. Especially in the cold. Even though the second drain was cloudy, the consistency was so slippery the drain bolt fell out of my hands when I took it off. Not the case with the factory fill. That was like water. I would also consider Amsoil SS if I was out of warranty. It’s red

4. Thanks for the tip on using a long, rigid funnel! Rubber/vinyl hoses are a pain and always seem to twist/turn eventually coming out of the hole, spilling fluid all around etc.
5. Any other recommendations? I'll probably do my first change in the next couple weeks...

Try to make sure the new fluid is close the same temperature as what is coming out for measuring purposes. I used a plastic gallon milk/spring water jug for measuring. After draining, I poured from the pan into the jug and marked the level drawing a line. Used the same jug with the line for the new fluid. Then poured it down the funnel little by little.

Turn the steering wheel to the left once the tire is off. Same as you would do in a brake job to get access to the caliper bolts. That moves the tie rods forward so you can get your arm in to remove the fiil bolt. Feed the metal funnel down in advance. Put it near the hole behind it. Then when you take the fill bolt out you can grab the bottom of the funnel tube and feed it into the hole. It’s a good fit. It falls in a little bit.

Measuring level is more of a challenge why I put extra effort into putting back what came out. When you are measuring assumption is the vehicle needs to be level. There’s different ways of doing that. I use two floor jacks so I’m not stuck in one position with jack stands. With the tire off I can lower the Jeep to level and still have some level of safety with two 3 ton floor jacks backing each other up. I have not done this step yet. I plan to in the next week when I have some time.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[j3r3myCs]

I also recently did a drain and fill in my transmission. I did get a transmission fluid analysis as well, which was from Blackstone Labs just to be a bit proactive. Yes, it’s a “lifetime” fluid, but it never hurts changing it. According to my fluid analysis insolubles were a bit higher than they would prefer, but they said typically that just indicates it was a good time for a fluid change. Other than that all of the other wear metals actually looked well. Just my two cents, but someone with a Chrysler Pacifica changed their fluid every 50–60k miles and the original transmission lasted over 400k miles. Clearly it doesn’t hurt anything.

I did use the Amsoil Signature Series (must be the fuel efficient), and the PN interchanges with the Mopar/Chrysler PN. It also has much better resistance to oxidation and temperature extremes compared to the Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed Fluid.

Prior to changing to fluid I did drive it for maybe 15 minutes at most. Some will say to change it at room temperature and other will tell you to drive it and then change it. I just followed instructions according to the Hayne’s manual. As long as you measure the amount that comes out, and put said almond back in you’re good to go.

I jacked mine up and used jack stands being sure it was even all around. My jack stands are a bit large, so I had to use the area where a lift would typically be placed (I found that it supports it much better than the pinch-weld). Plus no risk of damaging said pinch-weld. Somewhat related, I purchased a Daytona jack cross beam (link below), and it makes life so much easier. Less hassle when jacking it up, and if you rotate your own tires just get it! I did remove the front driver wheel to make the process easier (the fill plug is a bit of a pain).

As other posters have mentioned the drain (8mm hex) and fill (6mm hex) plugs are different sizes, so be sure you have all of the correct tools available prior to doing it. It wouldn’t be a good day draining your transmission fluid out and then being unable to fill it again.

As I mentioned before I used the Amsoil Signature Series, and conveniently they sell a pump for the gallon and quart bottles which is what I used. The fill hole is a bit smaller, so I did have to get smaller tubing and use a hose clamp between the two. I’ll have a picture of that apparatus below. Pictures last longer and after all it was such fun (sarcasm)! I could not find one of these spiffy funnels, so to each their own. You do have to keep in mind the amount of fluid in the tubing and compensate accordingly. Once filled to desire level and the fill plug back in I started it, and shifted through the gears just to circulate the fluid, then test drive! No issues whatsoever afterwards.

I would highly recommend the transmission fluid analysis, especially if you’re kind of leery. It’s only $35, they’re based in Indiana. I will also have that link below. I’ll list a link for the Amsoil fluid as well, and they also have a data sheet with some good information.

Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam

Oil sample | Blackstone Laboratories

https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf

 

[Tico007]

@j3r3myCs did you happen to notice what the factory fluid smells like? To me, smelled like Maxlife. That one of a kind vomit smell lol.