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Diagnosing Broken Motor Mounts (How To)

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4.1K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Skidoojunki  
#1 ·
Diagnosing Broken Cherokee Motor Mounts

Unusual vibrations or movement can be difficult to diagnose. It can be something simple thigs like tires being out of balance to more complex items such as failed or failing suspension components. When diagnosing any unusual movement the motor mounts should always be considered a potential suspect. Occasionally the question comes up, "How can I tell if my motor mounts are bad?". Fortunately, on the Cherokee it's fairly easy to rule in or out a broken motor mount.​

The Cherokee has 3 mounts; 2 upper and one lower:

  • [Passenger upper] The passenger side mount connects the top of the engine to the body/frame underneath the coolant bottle.
  • [Driver upper] The driver's side mount connects the top of the transmission to the body/frame underneath the battery tray area
  • [Lower] The one lower mount is underneath the car connected to a bracket at the rear-underside of the transmission.
The upper mounts are heavy rubber filled with a dampening fluid. The lower mount is solid rubber “pancake” style.


Symptoms of a bad Cherokee motor mount:
  • [Drivability] One or more broken motor mounts leave a feeling of “motion” or vibration when driving, especially when accelerating or coming to a stop or when in a hard-lock turn, there can be noise or vibration as the engine/transmission combination moves/flexes loosely from the body.
  • [Visual Movement] With the engine running, car in Park with the electric parking brake on for safety, open the hood and visually examine the engine. Does it appear to be rocking or shaking excessively?
  • [Visual Indications] With the engine off and the car in Park, and parking brake on for safety, do a visual check:

DRIVER & PASSENGER side Mounts: For either the passenger or driver's motor mount the most reliable test is to visually look underneath the motor mount for signs of brownish streaks as shown in the photos. The mounts are filled with a hydraulic fluid to absorb vibrations and covered with rubber end caps. When the mount breaks the fluid comes out and leaks down the car leaving brown 'tears'. For example, on the driver's side, if a mount breaks, the fluid lands right on the end face of the transmission that's visible if you peel back the driver's wheel liner. If you ever see brown fluid leaks on that face, it's the driver's mount that's failed. With the passenger side look directly under the mount section that has the black rubber on it. Do you see fluid running down? (may be dried if it happened a while ago) If so, the mount needs to be replaced.

REAR Mount: To tell if it's the rear mount put the car on ramps where you can get under it. Then using your hands, try moving the motor front to back. If the mount is bad, you'll see the rear mount move back and forward. (the mount is located on the top side of the subframe underneath the car connected to a bracket at the back of the transmission. The mount but it has a rubber isolator on it and shouldn't move.)


Here is a link to a JCC thread with three different YouTube videos showing each mount, it’s location and being changed.
https://www.jeepcherokeeclub.com/threads/identifying-bad-motor-mount.250113/post-3034153 )

Also, see the photos below for examples of the brown "tears" that will appear underneath one of the two upper mounts when broken:



Fluid-filled motor mount with cracked/broken rubber isolator.
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Brown fluid streaks (tears) down the motor mount onto the frame are telltale signs o the broken upper motor mount.
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Brown tears - fluid streaks down the driver’s side of the transmission casing are always from a leaking driver’s side motor mount which is mounted directly above it.
Image



Image






The rear mount is a solid “pancake” style rubber bushing. Similar to the lower control arm bushings, these can deteriorate over time leaving the bushing separated from the mount. The engine/transmission will then have excessive play (often leading to the upper mounts eventually failing)
Image
 
#3 · (Edited)
Great info!
 
#8 ·
In my case, all three failed at the same time
Also you may have lost one first and once that happens, unless you notice it and remedy, the others won't be able to pick up the slack of the excess movement and will fail themselves. There's no way to not notice all three broken. I took a used Cherokee on a test drive once that had 3 broken mounts; you could literally feel the 'movement' of the powertrain separate from the body. Almost like when you pull an empty trailer and when it bounces or hits a pothole you feel a momentary movement in the car body.
 
#9 ·
What's the deal with motor (transmission) mounts?? Have been driving my 2014 TH on and off road for 10 years, the mounts are fine. I am pretty sure. Recently I had my Jeep dealer check EVERYTHING.
My first car was a 1963 VW Bug. Since then I have never had to replace mounts in any vehicle I have owned.
My current daily driver is a 1996 Oldsmobile LSS with 330,000 miles, the mounts are one of the few parts that are still original. Just about everything else has been replaced at least once. I am more worried about the rusted out sheet metal the mounts bolt onto.
Is there something I am missing here?????
 
#10 ·
Hey @sanghill, no, you're not missing anything and no, there's not a general issue with the motor mounts like, say, the PTUs. There have been a few threads recently that just happen to be about the mounts - all coincidence. I think we also hear slightly more about our mounts than other cars because two of ours are fluid-filled whereas many vehicles use solid rubber mounts which, while not dampening as well, they're also sturdier.
 
#13 ·
From what I have found since I have been dealing with failed oem mounts on my 2014 ad1 v6 with 137k miles and junk aftermarket ones (rock auto ones lasted all of 3 months before failing again) Is the oem part number for the upper transmission mount on the v6 was recently updated to a new part number and that part is more beefy than the older part. I suspect Jeep has had warranty issues on the older part and it was redesigned. New is 68270565AB
The old part was 68164710AF
If you pull pictures of both the new one is thicker metal and seems to have more rubber as well with a larger fluid reservoir disk at the bottom. I am not sure on the 4 cylinders if they use the same mounts or not possibly different parts for them. My symptoms is vibration at idle and when shifting along with noise of the engine moving around noticable more at low speeds. I tow so that probably does not help the mounts live a long life either. Don't ever go aftermarket though. Yes they are much cheaper cost wise but do not last like the oem ones.
 
#16 ·
The part is about $300. I'm guessing an hour to an hour and a half labor (at a shop rate at $300/hr).


The unknown is whether your rear engine mount needs replaces as well. The top mounts tend to fail when the bottom one already has and the engine/transmission assembly has too much back & forth movement. The bottom one would probably add a couple hundred more to the overall cost.

Note, local shops can also do this job, probably at lower labor cost as well.