[twchristian]

Thanks for the reply! I suspect the O-ring may be damaged/missing. The motor does seem to be seated correctly, ( no gaps ), but fluid is coming from that area. I did use an inspection mirror and saw the plug you are talking about, near the vent but on the opposite side of the case seam. I will have to get back under there to get some picks, but it's leaking bad enough that the bottom of the differential case is wet and also some on the exhaust. And an oil spot on the driveway...

 

[Gary Kline]

So on the 2019+ (reservoir-less) AD1 units, there are two hex plugs which I believe are the fill/air bleed ports. You'll notice some sealant (RTV or brown Locktite) around these ports to seal against leaks. Similar ports are actually on the 2014-2018 units but those included the reservoir as well (I'm not sure the reason for the change in design).

I have a 2014 so my service manual doesn't confirm these are the fill holes but it would make sense. Unfortunaly, I can't confirm the procedure but I would assume the hole (is the top plug (#1) an "air bleed" and fill hole or is it just an airbleed/overflow hole and hole next to the pump sensor drain only etc.). The top hole is course if the most important/easiest since any trapped air will flow up and fluid could be filled from there as well.)

 

[Gary Kline]

Thanks for the reply! I suspect the O-ring may be damaged/missing. The motor does seem to be seated correctly, ( no gaps ), but fluid is coming from that area. I did use an inspection mirror and saw the plug you are talking about, near the vent but on the opposite side of the case seam. I will have to get back under there to get some picks, but it's leaking bad enough that the bottom of the differential case is wet and also some on the exhaust. And an oil spot on the driveway...

Question... if the dealer did the repair and it was still under warranty, as a 2019 are you still under the powertrain warranty or the repair within its warranty where you could take it to another dealer?

 

[twchristian]

Power train warranty is 5yr/60k (I think), and I have over 60k on the vehicle. I do have an extended warranty on the vehicle, with a 200$ deductible. My plan is to fix the leak myself if it will be a relatively easy fix, but I'm not sure that is the case. Attached a couple pics, this is after cleaning the differential off good and pulling the vehicle out of the garage onto the driveway.

 

[sanghill]

Look for drain plugs and fill plugs with 3/8" square sockets.
I am assuming you are leaking gear oil and not ATF.
My 2014 TH does not have any drain plugs that I am aware of.
There is a fill plug on the rear left and right side of the RDM.
Personally I not think you should replace the pump seals. If you do and the ATM system needs to be bled, then you will need a WiTech.
I just add gear oil to the two fill plugs and regular intervals to maintain proper 'fill'. Fairly straight forward and does not risk harming anything.

 

[Gary Kline]

Look for drain plugs and fill plugs with 3/8" square sockets.
I am assuming you are leaking gear oil and not ATF.
My 2014 TH does not have any drain plugs that I am aware of.
There is a fill plug on the rear left and right side of the RDM.
Personally I not think you should replace the pump seals. If you do and the ATM system needs to be bled, then you will need a WiTech.
I just add gear oil to the two fill plugs and regular intervals to maintain proper 'fill'. Fairly straight forward and does not risk harming anything.

HI @sanghill, this is different. It's the pump seal (for the pressure clutch plates), not the gear oil fill holes on the rear (aft) side of the RDM (where there's one or two depending on AD1 or AD2). This is the first I've heard of the pump o-ring seal fail. Almost certainly a mistake during the installation process since the pump was just replaced.

 

[Gary Kline]

Power train warranty is 5yr/60k (I think), and I have over 60k on the vehicle. I do have an extended warranty on the vehicle, with a 200$ deductible. My plan is to fix the leak myself if it will be a relatively easy fix, but I'm not sure that is the case. Attached a couple pics, this is after cleaning the differential off good and pulling the vehicle out of the garage onto the driveway. View attachment 230437 View attachment 230439

Just to check the easiest first... Are any of the screws easily turned? (e.g. the mechanic didn't torque them down?) Note there are screws to hold the pump to the mount (which I think is only sold with the pump) and then three screws to hold the mount to the RDM assembly. Looks like the leak is coming from the latter.

 

[Gary Kline]

So, there actually appears to be two o-rings for that assembly. If you look at the bore the pump goes into on the RDM in the photo below, you can barely make out what appears to be two steps/lips in the bore hole. I bet one o-ring (past #10) goes around the center pump bore and then the second o-ring (part #11) around the entire pump assembly-to-RDM mount.

What do you think.... bet a dollar one is missing...

 

[Gary Kline]

Power train warranty is 5yr/60k (I think), and I have over 60k on the vehicle. I do have an extended warranty on the vehicle, with a 200$ deductible. My plan is to fix the leak myself if it will be a relatively easy fix, but I'm not sure that is the case. Attached a couple pics, this is after cleaning the differential off good and pulling the vehicle out of the garage onto the driveway.

Are you within the warranty period of the repair work done? (e.g. make it their problem to fix since it seems like their repair created the leak)

 

[twchristian]

Gary, that is what I suspect. I have the O-rings ordered. Sounds like I will have to do the bleed procedure as well?

 

[Gary Kline]

Gary, that is what I suspect. I have the O-rings ordered. Sounds like I will have to do the bleed procedure as well?

Yes, you'll need to do a bleed. Either at your dealer of AlfaOBD.

 

[twchristian]

I assume this will run the motor/pump to purge the air out without setting off the service 4wd fault?

 

[Gary Kline]

I assume this will run the motor/pump to purge the air out without setting off the service 4wd fault?

To be honest, I haven't needed to replace my RDM so I haven't had to bleed mine. Yes, I would fully assume it runs the pump to bleed air out of the system (hence the need to be able to get to the top threaded port to let bled air out and top off if necc. While I don't have first hand experience, I cannot believe it would cause the Svc 4WD light to activate (this is a required operations procedure that Jeep also provides in their WiTech. )

 

[Gary Kline]

Note, I have a 2014 (with the reservoir) - these are the instructions for by RDM though yours will probably be the same w/o the reservoir of course. The fluid in the 2014-2018 is MS-2155 hydraulic fluid, not 70W-80 gear oil that goes in the gear fill ports on the rear (aft) side of the RDM. I assume the 2019+ carries through the same but you should confirm this (e.g. when the pump comes off you shouldn't see gear oil come out unless they somehow re-engineered the hydraulics to run off of gear oil)

Note, the photo below shows the two o-rings. This is true-color; they come in red and blue and go in their respective positions. I wouldn't be surprised to see you missing the red one...

 

[Mike_wth14]

Hi I was desperately needing some help on my issue with my rear transfer case.
I had an issue where the bottom plug on the rear transfer case had come loose and slowly dripped some oil out. I’m not sure about the correct term for this (rear transfer case looking thing) but I had disconnected the sensor at the bottom and then I tightened it back up. The Thing is now I can’t find where you can top this thing back up?? It had leaked just enough out to trip the service 4wd sensor.. sometimes it comes on shortly after to start it and sometimes you can go an hour before it’ll come on. I can’t find any write ups on how to fill this thing. I would hate to have to drop the whole diff just to top it up. . Also I noticed it’s kind of a green looking fluid, I’m assuming it’s that expensive mopar ATF that goes in it??Right now I’m at a complete loss on what to do with it.
In the pictures is the little electric motor on it to get an idea of what of what I’m talking about

I have the same problem.change fluids and not have 4wdlow, i dont know what to do
Any one knows how to said if thw up actuator is broken

Help here please i need your experiencies