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Happy to report that after the replies from above I was able to grasp the problem and persuade the shop here in Charleston, SC that they needed to try again (3rd Attempt) and rotate the bulbs so that the filaments were as close to the six o' clock position as possible. Techs were telling me it wasn't possible . . . but they gave it a shot and it worked.

The difference in the bulbs' performance now is truly astounding and I am enjoying the huge difference in illumination. Such a huge frickin difference!

I have to give 4 Wheel Parts credit for working with me and giving the install job three tries (without an appointment on two of the three). Huge credit to Asst Manager Zach Braswell for supplying the time, effort and customer service.

Now it's time to focus on improving ground clearance. I've got Black Bear Pass in my sights.
 

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Happy to report that after the replies from above I was able to grasp the problem and persuade the shop here in Charleston, SC that they needed to try again (3rd Attempt) and rotate the bulbs so that the filaments were as close to the six o' clock position as possible. Techs were telling me it wasn't possible . . . but they gave it a shot and it worked.

The difference in the bulbs' performance now is truly astounding and I am enjoying the huge difference in illumination. Such a huge frickin difference!

I have to give 4 Wheel Parts credit for working with me and giving the install job three tries (without an appointment on two of the three). Huge credit to Asst Manager Zach Braswell for supplying the time, effort and customer service.

Now it's time to focus on improving ground clearance. I've got Black Bear Pass in my sights.
Wow, glad this worked out, finally. Pitty those bulbs aren't "insert and play", so to speak, they should be.
Credit to 4 Wheel Parts indeed for seeing this through.

Enjoy the shadowless beams ;)
 

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They are plug and play, the issues is Cherokee headlamp housings and the positions of the tabs, manufacturing variance they are not all in the same location hence why the bulbs may need to be turned in the housings more or not at all .
 

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They are plug and play, the issues is Cherokee headlamp housings and the positions of the tabs, manufacturing variance they are not all in the same location hence why the bulbs may need to be turned in the housings more or not at all .
Well that's news to me, but I've only stuck my head down my own headlamps, so you get benefit of the doubt.

Strangely, many install stories here on the forum, early on mostly Xenon Depot, I don't think I ever heard of one install requiring tab trimming or bulb clocking (except maybe their very first gen of bulbs in 2014).

The 9012 to 9005 transition in model year 2016 did cause headaches for some kit manufacturers, needing two distinct sets of bulbs for KLs. As far as I know, XD have always had the correct tab configuration in their kits. I'm not getting into bulb out errors here - XD had its share of those - just tab arrangement and fit.
 

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Hello Everyone, first time posting. I went to the Xenon Depot site and I didn't see a HID kit for 2015 Cherokee (TH - currently has halogen bulbs)? I'm very interested in upgrading the headlights, since they are so bad.
 

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Hello Everyone, first time posting. I went to the Xenon Depot site and I didn't see a HID kit for 2015 Cherokee (TH - currently has halogen bulbs)? I'm very interested in upgrading the headlights, since they are so bad.
Hi there, welcome to JCC :)

I totally understand your desire to go HID. This is where XenonDepot takes you when you choose a 2015 Cherokee with halogens :

When you scroll down, you'll eventually get to the HID kit : Back In Stock! 9012 XTR HID System Kit I Xenon Depot

Now... Xenon Depot were taken over by The Retrofit Source not too long ago, so the site has changed a bit since I ordered my kit years ago. When you look at the order options, you'll need to add a "Optional PWM module", but you don't need the anti-flicker (this is not for Cherokees). You can also choose bulb color : 4K is the norm (most OEM HIDs are 4K), but you can go 5K if you prefer a whiter white. Avoid going over 5K, light gets blueish, you lose light output.

Or, you could simply contact them and ask a rep directly for the kit you need. I've contacted them a couple times myself recently and their customer support is awesome.
 

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I'm looking at getting the Xenon Depot HID kit. What's the best colour to go for? I'm also planning to upgrade to LED fog lights which say they are 5000K. I want the HIDs to match the stock LED daytime running lights as closely as possible - are 4300K or 5000K HIDs the best match. I don't want to overly dazzle oncoming traffic. Obviously the key thing there is taking the time to adjust the headlights so they are low enough, but also I'm thinking 4300K HIDs might be slightly easier on other drivers eyes than the harsher white 5000K but will they look horribly out of sync colour wise?
 

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I'm looking at getting the Xenon Depot HID kit. What's the best colour to go for? I'm also planning to upgrade to LED fog lights which say they are 5000K. I want the HIDs to match the stock LED daytime running lights as closely as possible - are 4300K or 5000K HIDs the best match. I don't want to overly dazzle oncoming traffic. Obviously the key thing there is taking the time to adjust the headlights so they are low enough, but also I'm thinking 4300K HIDs might be slightly easier on other drivers eyes than the harsher white 5000K but will they look horribly out of sync colour wise?
Just my .02 :

For HIDs, don't go over 5000K (neutral white). 4300K is optimal for lumen output and less offensive to oncoming eyes, but 5000K is close enough.

About matching the colors : I've said this many times here, and you may not like my way of thinking, but here goes... Honestly, nobody cares if your headlights match your fog lights or your DRLs. If you don't like what you see when you take a picture of all your lights, just know oncoming cars will care more about how your aim is and appreciate more neutral white light sources (not the blue-ish LED tint).

BTW LEDs are more 6500K in nature, like your DRLs.

I have 4300K HIDs and am prefectly fine with them.
 

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I also have the 4300K HID kit from Xenon Depot in my 2014 and love it. Huge improvement over the stock halogens.
 
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You're awesome for providing the PDF. Great job
Some of those instructions are no longer current, especially the reversing polarity bit (if it's still in there), but all in all they cover all the important stuff. I remember referring to it a lot when I installed my kit.
 

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I finally bit the bullet and purchased the xenon depot kit for my 2014 Altitude. Should be here in a few days. I hope I can install it right the first time.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 
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My RHS headlight stopped working a couple of days ago on my 2016 Cherokee, and I was happy to find this thread (and others) about a better replacement. I tried to find the type of lights that I have using this method.
So to answer your question about a 2016 : it depends. Very early 2016s were shipped with 9012s, then they all shipped with 9005s. So to find out which ones you have, just kneel down in front of each headlight and look for a number etched into the lens :
  • HIR2 = 9012
  • HB3 = 9005
(check both, some rare 2016s have had mismatched bulbs)
However, when I knelt down before my Cherokee (which was not a religious act) I could not see any etchings on either headlight. My Cherokee was manufactured 4/16. Is this the kit I need to purchase?
 

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My RHS headlight stopped working a couple of days ago on my 2016 Cherokee, and I was happy to find this thread (and others) about a better replacement. I tried to find the type of lights that I have using this method.

However, when I knelt down before my Cherokee (which was not a religious act) I could not see any etchings on either headlight. My Cherokee was manufactured 4/16. Is this the kit I need to purchase?
Hi,

I just checked on my 2015. See pic attached from driver's side (just zoom in on the yellow circle). I have HIR2, so 9012 bulbs. Hope you can find the etching on yours...
There is another way to determine which bulbs you need : pull a bulb out. Easier said than done though... and with a 2016, you need to check both bulbs beause some came mismatched from the assembly line (one side 9012/HIR2, the other 9005/HB3).

Wish I knew the build date cutoff for the 9012 > 9005 swap, but I don't... though if I had to guess, your April build is kinda late so most likely 9005s in your Cherokee.

 

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Thank you, it's easy when you know how. I have the HB3, which makes it the 9005 kit. I will order the kit.
 

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Thank you, it's easy when you know how. I have the HB3, which makes it the 9005 kit. I will order the kit.
Good.

Don't forget to add the optional PWM modules, for $32. The lights won't work without it. If you've already ordered without the PWM, then just phone them up and have it added to your order.
 

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I just got my kit in. Seems like a lot of parts! So, you're saying I no longer need to worry about reversing polarity? Just 'plug-n-play' it, and make sure the bar on the bulb is oriented between 3 and 9 o'clock?
212953

These are the parts for one headlight
 

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The guy who wrote the guide mentioned he used a 3/4" Forstner bit. It seems more like a 7/8" grommet. Does it fit snugly in the 3/4" opening without bunching up?

Also, neither this guide nor the one provided by Xenon Depot give much guidance on where to attach those pos and neg leads. Are there obvious attachment points under the hood? I didn't see any under the hood.

TIA!
 

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I just got my kit in. Seems like a lot of parts! So, you're saying I no longer need to worry about reversing polarity? Just 'plug-n-play' it, and make sure the bar on the bulb is oriented between 3 and 9 o'clock?
View attachment 212953
These are the parts for one headlight
The guy who wrote the guide mentioned he used a 3/4" Forstner bit. It seems more like a 7/8" grommet. Does it fit snugly in the 3/4" opening without bunching up?

Also, neither this guide nor the one provided by Xenon Depot give much guidance on where to attach those pos and neg leads. Are there obvious attachment points under the hood? I didn't see any under the hood.

TIA!
Uhmm... Ok, my kit is much different, as I don't have a relay. What is that second component from the left ? And where are the PWMs ??

You are right about the 7/8" drill bit. AFAIK 3/4" is not big enough to let the connector through. Some have cheated with a 3/4" hole by pulling the pins from the connectors then reconnecting them on the other side of the dust cap.
Correct about not needing to reverse polarity, on XenonDepot kits (still required for DDM Tuning kits, last I heard).

Edit to add : Ok, second component from the left is likely a resistor, in lieu of a PWM. That could work.
 
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Oh and the POS lead is at the battery POS (relay), and the NEG from the relay can go on the battery NEG or body. Resistor NEG, well, find yourself a small bolt/screw to secure it (to the body) ; that'll depend on where you mount them...
 
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