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As above the HID kit is the 'safer' option as it has been heavily vetted by many users and if you follow a few simple install tips you really can't go wrong (assuming you buy a quality kit.). There are a few extra components to install vs. the LED but there is plenty of room in the KL for them and it's really no problem. LEDs work well as a factory option but they sometimes seem to be problematical when used in upgrades.
 

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As above the HID kit is the 'safer' option as it has been heavily vetted by many users and if you follow a few simple install tips you really can't go wrong (assuming you buy a quality kit.). There are a few extra components to install vs. the LED but there is plenty of room in the KL for them and it's really no problem. LEDs work well as a factory option but they sometimes seem to be problematical when used in upgrades.
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I was originally attracted to the LED Pro kit because they would be a general improvement over halogen, the minimal equipment needed to run them, and especially because of the drastic difference in the lifespan of the bulbs over the HID. However, I live in the Midwest where it’s either snowing OR raining 80% of the time, so visibility in those conditions is #1 . I also don’t have fogs (sport), so I’m ultra-reliant on my low beams. I really need more out of them so maybe HID is the safer choice.
 

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Thanks for the feedback, guys. I was originally attracted to the LED Pro kit because they would be a general improvement over halogen, the minimal equipment needed to run them, and especially because of the drastic difference in the lifespan of the bulbs over the HID. However, I live in the Midwest where it’s either snowing OR raining 80% of the time, so visibility in those conditions is #1 . I also don’t have fogs (sport), so I’m ultra-reliant on my low beams. I really need more out of them so maybe HID is the safer choice.
Yeah last I heard, directly from a XenonDepot rep, was that most if not all LED Pro kits required external resistors and relays, because the PWM modules (also mounted externally of headlamps) just can't handle the sensitive monitoring system on our Jeeps ; so with that said, an LED kit install would be very similar to an HID kit install with external hardware. But this isn't difficult, really, because all that is needed is to drill a 7/8" hole in the plastic dustcaps to run wires out (grommets supplied to seal it up) and then stick the ballasts and PWMs with double-sided tape near the headlamps.

In bad weather, LEDs don't produce a friendly color... for you and for oncomers. And don't worry about the factory fog lights you don't have, they are crap anyway, and almost completely drowned out by the throw of HIDs. If you want working fog lights on these Jeeps, you have to get aftermarket lamps (not just bulbs), so you could do this sometime in the future if needed, with quality lamps with possibly amber bulbs (or lenses) for superior vision and eye comfort in bad weather.
 

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I bought an XD kit along with a set of their fog light LED's as a Christmas gift for my wife. Although, now that I see those amber/orange LED's in nbb350's pic, I'm beginning to regret getting the fog bulbs. Amber might actually be more effective in foggy conditions, and I really like the way they look. She sometimes has trouble driving at night, so every little bit will help.
I'm pretty sure these are the amber fog light bulbs I bought:
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Lumens-Extremely-Bright/dp/B079VTTB4R/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Jeep%7C42&Model=Cherokee%7C347&Year=2015%7C2015&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive[/ame]

I can't be 100% sure right now since my wife locked me out of our Amazon account after my Xmas shopping spree...no way to check the Order History. lol

Also, I DO remember having that rivet at the bottom of my fender liner - I didn't remove it, I just cursed a lot and strong-armed the fender liner out of the way to do the work. And I did all the work thru the fender liner; I never removed my battery or airbox.
 

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Yeah last I heard, directly from a XenonDepot rep, was that most if not all LED Pro kits required external resistors and relays, because the PWM modules (also mounted externally of headlamps) just can't handle the sensitive monitoring system on our Jeeps ; so with that said, an LED kit install would be very similar to an HID kit install with external hardware. But this isn't difficult, really, because all that is needed is to drill a 7/8" hole in the plastic dustcaps to run wires out (grommets supplied to seal it up) and then stick the ballasts and PWMs with double-sided tape near the headlamps.

In bad weather, LEDs don't produce a friendly color... for you and for oncomers. And don't worry about the factory fog lights you don't have, they are crap anyway, and almost completely drowned out by the throw of HIDs. If you want working fog lights on these Jeeps, you have to get aftermarket lamps (not just bulbs), so you could do this sometime in the future if needed, with quality lamps with possibly amber bulbs (or lenses) for superior vision and eye comfort in bad weather.
Thanks, that makes sense. I've seen a few other sport owners on here do the fog install, and there's a pretty good step by step video on youtube for it. I definitely plan on going an amber or yellow for them if I go that route... but that's a topic for a different thread :D I'll order the HID from XenonDepot and go from there. I'll let you guys know how it turns out and I'll post some pics. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for the bulb info, nbb350. I'm going back to the stock halogens for the time being, as the bulbs I got from XD don't work correctly (as designed, they're clocked wrong in the housing and have a terrible pattern). If I do go with LED’s again, I want to find a similar design to the XD units, but ones that are adjustable. The two-sided design should give the best beam pattern. I know going with a Morimoto retrofit would be the *right* thing to do, but man, they're pricey!
 

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Not Jeep related, but the folks in this thread have the knowledge I need, so my apologies for the OT subject:

I'm headed to Ohio next week, and planned to install an XD 9012 kit (4300K) in my dad's Acadia. I just found out the XD is out of stock on the 4300K bulbs, and has no ETA, so I'm stuck. (He wants the OEM look, so 5000K is out.) I need a reliable alternative quicky. Suggestions?

Thanks.

P.S. Loving the XD 4300K's in the TH! (There. Jeep content!) :D


EDIT: My dad decided 5000K would be OK, and ordered the kit today. Interesting thing, though: He paid via PayPal, and got the attached confirmation. XD=TRS? :confused:

EDIT2: According to XD, they were acquired by TRS a few weeks ago. Mystery solved.

..
 

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Anyone have an instruction set or diagram for the 2014 extreme hid install?

Kit contains:
1 of : 2014 Jeep Cherokee HID Kit [9012 HID Bulb Temp/Color:6500K HID]
1 of : 9005 / 9006 XenonDepot PWM HID / LED Kit Module
1 of : 9006 Splitter Wires
2 of : HID Kit Wire Harness
1 of : XenonDepot XD6 6 Ohm Resistor
2 of : Xtreme HID Xenon Replacement Ballast

Ordered 2014 Extreme HID kit the 4th. No mention on their site that they were moving warehouses which delayed shipment until the 14th (so already off to a poor start).

Fast forward to today when the kit arrived and no instructions, figured ok i'll just call and get a digital copy. Boy was I in for a surprise when i was told that they did not have any instruction available to send because they were being reworked but he could explain it over the phone (really helpful). I work for a Tier 1 supplier to OEM mainly in the scene (Mopar, GM performance etc.) not being able to provide an installation sheet for such an item is extremely taboo to me.

For a $180 kit this has been a really poor experience and I'm quite sorry that I purchased interior LEDs and Fog LEDs on the 7th.


Edit: based on reading though this almost seems as if the kit is outdated w/ people running no relays.

Edit 2: Received email from support (Jimmy) with a digital copy of the instructions sheet. It does not outline the install with what I received that furthers my assumption that the kit has been updated for most cherokees but not the one I purchased. Install sheet outlined ones similar to those that I've read here within this posting.
 

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Hi,

Just FYI, your second link for a 9012 kit in incorrect, it is lacking the PWM modules. Here is the correct link :
https://www.xenondepot.com/2015-cherokee-9012-hid-kit-p/2s9i-0000-9012-hid-kit.htm

So to answer your question about a 2016 : it depends. Very early 2016s were shipped with 9012s, then they all shipped with 9005s. So to find out which ones you have, just kneel down in front of each headlight and look for a number etched into the lens :
- HIR2 = 9012
- HB3 = 9005
(check both, some rare 2016s have had mismatched bulbs)

The link I posted for 9012s says 2015 : that's because Xenon Depot made the 2016 kits with 9005s by default, but like I said, some have 9012s...
 

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Just installed 4300k HID PWM kit in right side in 16' Trailhawk and I'm seeing the large shadow at 4 o'clock or 8 o'clock depending on bulb orientation. Is this normal? Can it be remedied?
I just installed the MFC HID'S and I have the same problem. This shadow extends downrange and is a problem when turning and in general, I have less confidence when driving at night.

Did you find a solution?
 

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I just installed the MFC HID'S and I have the same problem. This shadow extends downrange and is a problem when turning and in general, I have less confidence when driving at night.

Did you find a solution?
There is only one way to do this : these bulbs have a wire running from base to tip, once installed in the headlamp, wire must be sitting below horizontal. Your 7 o'clock shadow means the wire is sitting at 1 o'clock right now (projectors reflect, so shadow is at opposite of where wire is). Wire needs to sit below 3 to 9 o'clock.
 

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There is only one way to do this : these bulbs have a wire running from base to tip, once installed in the headlamp, wire must be sitting below horizontal. Your 7 o'clock shadow means the wire is sitting at 1 o'clock right now (projectors reflect, so shadow is at opposite of where wire is). Wire needs to sit below 3 to 9 o'clock.
212539
212540

this is what im dealing with... 20201121_234038.jpg BeforeTrim1.jpg
 

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How do I get to the wire?
This is what your bulbs look like : https://www.amazon.com/XtremeVision-HID-Xenon-Replacement-Bulbs/dp/B00XQ6GP2W

See that blue thing ? That's the solid wire underneath. It runs outside the bulb itself. This wire, if positionned incorrectly inside your headlamp, will cause a shadow.

In your case, the bulb was inserted and locked into position with the wire at the 1 o'clock position (upper right), causing a shadow down low and left, at the 7 o'clock position. To remove this shadow, the bulb must be postionned differently. In practical terms : bulb needs to be pulled out and repositionned by moving one tab over clockwise ; this will rotate the bulb roughly 120 degrees clockwise, moving the shadow roughly to the 11 o'clock position. At 11 o'clock, the shadow is not visible in your beam pattern because it will be above the projector cutoff. Wire can't be removed, shadow condition cannot be removed, but... it can be moved into the area where it doesn't matter (above the beam cutoff).

So if you go back to your installer... tell them to pull the bulb out and rotate it clockwise one tab position. This will cure the shadow.

Also... there is a good possibiity the passenger side bulb has the same problem. You would not see the shadow because the driver's side beam is filling it out. Best way to confirm this : pull up to a wall or garage door at night and check if you have one or two shadows. If two, I would have both bulbs repositionned.
Installer must be told about the wire position and why it causes a shadow, so they don't repeat the same mistake again with another customer.
 

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This is what your bulbs look like : https://www.amazon.com/XtremeVision-HID-Xenon-Replacement-Bulbs/dp/B00XQ6GP2W

See that blue thing ? That's the solid wire underneath. It runs outside the bulb itself. This wire, if positionned incorrectly inside your headlamp, will cause a shadow.

In your case, the bulb was inserted and locked into position with the wire at the 1 o'clock position (upper right), causing a shadow down low and left, at the 7 o'clock position. To remove this shadow, the bulb must be postionned differently. In practical terms : bulb needs to be pulled out and repositionned by moving one tab over clockwise ; this will rotate the bulb roughly 60 degrees clockwise, moving the shadow roughly to the 11 o'clock position. At 11 o'clock, the shadow is not visible in your beam pattern because it will be above the projector cutoff. Wire can't be removed, shadow cannot be removed, but... it can moved into the area where it doesn't matter (above the beam cutoff).

So if you go back to your installer... tell them to pull the bulb out and rotate it clockwise one tab position. This will cure the shadow.

Also... there is a good possibiity the passenger side bulb has the same problem. You would not see the shadow because the driver's side beam is filling it out. Best way to confirm this : pull up to a wall or garage door at night and check if you have one or two shadows. If two, I would have both bulbs repositionned.
Installer must be told about the wire position and why it causes a shadow, so they don't repeat the same mistake again with another customer.
You are correct same shadow coming out of both bulbs at close range. Passenger shadow not evident from 20 ft away.

Very detailed description. Thanks. I have grasped the issue. Installer had shaved the tabs down per MFC install guide. Hopefully this doesnt affect the ability to reposition.

Either way solid game plan for next round of the HID challenge.

Thanks again Mark and Tyler!
 

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It should be noted that in order to properly orient the bulb, the wide tab on the bulb base will need to be trimmed to make it the same size as the other two.
I, too, had the shadow you're seeing, and resolved the problem by trimming and repositioning as has been described above.
 

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It should be noted that in order to properly orient the bulb, the wide tab on the bulb base will need to be trimmed to make it the same size as the other two.
I, too, had the shadow you're seeing, and resolved the problem by trimming and repositioning as has been described above.
OP has already mentionned installer did some trimming (many threads OP posted in, information is scattered thus confusing...). Unfortunately, they didn't choose the correct position. My guess : no further trimming required to clock this bulb 120 degrees clockwise, I just hope the bulb(s) will fit securely now... Keen installer can secure bulb even if inital fit is loose, you just have to use your imagination...
 
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