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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting close to the 100K and was looking around the Rock Auto website to figure out how much I'd need to shell out on hardware for this.

Turns out it's not too scary, but there's still about $100 savings by choosing something other than MOPAR. The PCV valve is easy to replace so I'm not too worried about that, and I'll happily take the $20 savings on one of the non-OEMs. But I'm not really about to experiment with sub-par parts for the coolant and drive belt systems, since they take more effort to replace, and I don't want them failing on the trail if I can avoid it.

So I was wondering who the OEMs are for those parts?

For the water pump, I can kinda deduct it might be GMB? They also seem to have a good rep on the Wrangler forum.
Water Pump | GMB Corporation
More Information for GMB 1204530

For the serpentine belt, tensioner, and (one of the two?) pulleys it looks like it could be Gates?
Automotive | Gates Corporation
More Information for GATES 39342
More Information for GATES 38082
More Information for GATES K060804

But I'm (more than) half way guessing here. Anyone have any actual hard-fact info or experience?
 

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Not sure who makes the OEM parts. But I am sure the supplier(s) changes occasionally.
My issue with non OEM parts (some) is quality especially in belts and hoses etc.
There are some great secondary suppliers but really how do you tell when its a100,000 mile service.
But you do have an alternative for OEM parts. There are discounted OEM parts available online.
There are several other ones out there.
As far as fluids go I would stick with the OEM fluids, especially the proper coolant type for those 100,000 mile changes.
Also do not forget the lifetime fluids like drive train and transmission.
Finally do not forget to report on your project. That is what you changed yourself and what a dealer had to do for you.
Also the final cost breakdown on individual maintenance.
That information would be of great help to us on the forum as we approach that mileage.
 

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On past vehicles I have always found Gates or Continental to be the better quality and closest to OEM for belts and hoses.

For water pumps and other belt driven components I have personally found ACDelco to be good for aftermarket. Though since GM aftermarket they sometimes are not much cheaper than Mopar OEM

According to the Mopar oat coolant bottles I have they all say 10 year 150k miles for coolant. My 2014 manual reflects the same. 10 years or 150k miles whichever occurs first. I am at 95k and just replaced my upper rad hose/pipe due to a slow leak. Coolant that drained out was perfectly clean and pink and tested perfect for freeze and boil over. I will run mine to 150k. Hope the water pump lasts till then lol.
 

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On past vehicles I have always found Gates or Continental to be the better quality and closest to OEM for belts and hoses.

For water pumps and other belt driven components I have personally found ACDelco to be good for aftermarket. Though since GM aftermarket they sometimes are not much cheaper than Mopar OEM

According to the Mopar oat coolant bottles I have they all say 10 year 150k miles for coolant. My 2014 manual reflects the same. 10 years or 150k miles whichever occurs first. I am at 95k and just replaced my upper rad hose/pipe due to a slow leak. Coolant that drained out was perfectly clean and pink and tested perfect for freeze and boil over. I will run mine to 150k. Hope the water pump lasts till then lol.
You may want to give the coolant this check.....

 

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@topat46 interesting test. My coolant was .01 when doing that test. Based on reading elsewhere the most accurate is using PH test strips since there are some variables with multimeter and amount of water, coolant type etc. I still feel that FCA would not market their coolant 10yr/150k miles if in most use cases in a well maintained vehicle it could not last till that point. Coolants have come a long way in the past 20 years. Same with oils and other fluids. Which is not a bad thing. Thanks
 

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when changing serpentine drive belts, the best belt ive ever seen is the good year gatorback. they run around 20$ depending on the belt. But they wear like iron.
as for changing coolant, always go with OEM specs, you dont need to buy opar coolant, but whatever you buy must meet OEM spec. Plugs, wites coilpacks etc...you can buy aftermarket stuff, and often end up with a better product. MSD, Accel etc make very reliable products. As to plugs you should only buy oem spec. putting in a "hotter plug' will surely cause issues.

one final note, at any mileage changing fluids like coolant, trans fluid or other long life fluids in your vehicle before their "limit" cannot hurt. A little trick you can do to save yourself some heartache is to use electrical tape and tape a high quality thin magnet to your oil filter. Re-tape it every oil change on the new filter.(or tell the shop to do it for you) a good strong magnet can help trap metal bits in the filter and keep them out of your engine. I've done it to all my motorcycles and vehicles for years.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
According to the Mopar oat coolant bottles I have they all say 10 year 150k miles for coolant. My 2014 manual reflects the same. 10 years or 150k miles whichever occurs first.
Well, the reason I was planning this, and the water pump, at 100K was because I thought the drive belt needed replacement then. And since that requires the coolant hose to come off, I figured why not just do everything.

But I've looked in both my OM and service manual, and Haynes, and the only thing I can find about the drive belt is to check it, and the tensioner, every 30K, and replace it if it needs. No specific interval. I must have gotten that from elsewhere.

So, I guess if the drive belt looks bad it's coolant, pump, tensioner and pulleys. And otherwise it's just spark plugs and checking the PCV valve on top of the usual annyal service items. Plus in my case also a coolant system pressure test done, since it has a habit of emptying the reservoir on a non predictable interval. Since I got a new PTU about 10K miles ago I don't need a fluid change, which I would probably have done otherwise.

Cool!

I do agree it doesn't hurt changing fluids before they're due - especially since it does see real trails a couple of weeks or three a year. But the rest of the time it has fairly easy lift, so if everything checks out good I'll leave it until the drive belt starts showing wear signs.

It's be a few months still, but I'll try follow up with what I ended up doing, work and parts.
 

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@KL14 Sounds like a good plan there. For the coolant loss issue you are seeing. Have you carefully checked the upper radiator hose and its quick connect fitting to the metal pipe that runs in front of the engine? I recently replaced mine with the updated non quick connect parts due to a slow coolant leak. Its so close to the front exhaust header the heat causes the leaking coolant to evaporate before it can drip down to the ground. You can see a bit of coolant that finally dripped down on the ac line when mine got pretty bad. I believe they quit using the quick connect in 2016. So your 2014 might have the same leak unless yours has been replaced with the regular hose and clamp parts.
 

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