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What year & miles? Transmission & gear fluid changed?

8K views 45 replies 14 participants last post by  renardanderson 
#1 ·
I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee 2.0T, just created 70,000 miles, the dealer states do not change gear or Tranmission fluid, “it’s life time they said”at the dealer ship. Any one changed
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your fluids and at what year?
 
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#6 ·
Changed ptu and rdm fluids at 100k. RDM fluid was dirty with some fine metal slurry in it. Ptu fluid was not bad looking but was not easy to access. After using suction hose (no drain plug) basically pumped fresh fluid in to push out what remaining I could until it looked clearer. Rdm doesn't have a drain plug either but more working room to get a suction hose into it to pull fluid out. Transmission never touched since mine was replaced under warranty around 75k with a new trans. Though I will say fluid is lifetime of the warranty. If you want to hit 250k miles or more change them all around 150k max or sooner if you can.
 
#9 ·
Reference Post #6.
I am concerned about "some fine metal slurry it it". How thick were the filings on the magnet(s)?
My fear is the RDM is wearing excessively.
I have never removed oil from the RDM but I top it up once a year because the left axle seal weeps.
I wipe off the magnets so they never have a large amount filings.
 
#10 ·
It was similar to any rear diff that had not had the fluid changed often. Just that cloudy semi metallic look to it. It was not full of metal nor was the metal anything large or something you could pick out with your fingers. Ie no chunks or slivers etc. Though I did run a magnet pickup tool through it and it did get some metal sludge on it. I suspect most probably came from initial break in when the Jeep was new. Since we have no service interval for the rdm that would be when most would probably occur. I have not had any RDM issues and rolling up on 127k miles as we speak. Knock on wood hopefully changing the fluid helps keeping it happy and from grenading itself down the road. Its odd we have no service interval recommended since I know on the GC for the rear diff its like every 30-45k if you follow severe driving or go off-road. Different platforms but both have a rear diff with gears and parts to lubricate and where wear occurs.
 
#11 ·
I think you should be ok. I considered sucking out the fluid but never figured out how to do it.
Couldn't get the tubing down inside.
Probably should check the fluid fairly regularly so you can clean the magnet(s).
If you have a TH you have 2 fill plugs. Maybe AD2 has 2 also?
I just stack 2 2X10X2ft boards and drive the rear wheels up onto them, then I don't have to jack up the TH and
it can't fall on me.
 
#14 ·
I just did a drain and fill of my transmission last week. It is 8 years old and has 53k miles, I bought it used in December. ZF has a recommendation to change at 8 years or 100k miles. The drain and fill replaces a little over half the fluid. Attached are a couple of pics of what came out. I have had several vehicles in the past that have improved with a fluid change and have taken them to 200k. 6 3/8 fluid is what moves this car. Typical recommendations for automatics is if you are well over 100k, its too late to change. I like seeing clean fluid.
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#18 ·
The RDM has a clutch pack that allows partial engagement of the rear axle.
I think the particulate in the RDM fluid is probably particles shedding off of the clutch pack.
Some amount is normal I would think, but how much is a totally different matter...
It's supposed to be a lifetime fluid though, so changing it repeatedly might lead to the rear end not engaging kind of like an old transmission starting to slip after a fluid change.
 
#20 ·
The clutch pack is a separate fluid reservoir from the gears.
The clutch pack uses an ATF type of fluid. The gear reservoir uses gear oil, the magnetic fill plugs are for this reservoir only.
The metal filings on the magnetic fill plug are from the gears, not the clutch pack.
The clutch pack is for the rear locker and is only used on the Trailhawk.
 
#21 ·
Still haven't replaced those fluids, but have been noticing slightly more rougher shifts on the transmission. It's possible the levels are slightly lower, but at that point I'd consider just topping it off than draining it. I may have the dealer look into it first, and judge from there. I could even request they check the transmission oil level, and top off as necessary (same with PTU, and RDM). They say it's all a lifetime fluid, but they say nothing of you can't top it off.
 
#24 ·

Still haven't replaced those fluids, but have been noticing slightly more rougher shifts on the transmission. It's possible the levels are slightly lower, but at that point I'd consider just topping it off than draining it. I may have the dealer look into it first, and judge from there. I could even request they check the transmission oil level, and top off as necessary (same with PTU, and RDM). They say it's all a lifetime fluid, but they say nothing of you can't top it off.
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thank you for this information,
I’ve read a flush can damage things, better to just
Drain and fill, would you agree?
My opinion only, and this is what I do with my variety of vehicles. My research has been if your transmission is in good shape, refreshing your fluid will improve the physical properties of your fluid, ie closer to new specs. If your transmission has worn, changing the fluid may result in slipping because the wear products in the fluid is actually helping move the car. With clean fluid it will slip. If we agree on that, how does lifetime fluid impact this thought process? There will be a point that that fluid has partially broken down. Just like he said in the video, nothing lasts forever. So eventually the fluid will have degraded and start doing damage. And if you refresh, it will be further from being the cause of failure. Doesn't mean something else won't go wrong! 😞 Looking at what came out of my transmission, I will probably repeat the drain and fill next winter. The fluid had same consistency as new, but definitely was quite dark, compared to the clear green new. Hey, new fluid will not hurt if your within "Lifetime "!
 
#27 ·
I guess you could but is it really worth it? (a) the drilling, even from the bottom going up, would possibly spin some metal through on the inside of the RDM case when you break through. You'd have to pump oil through several times through the unit to make sure you didn't leave any metal shards inside the case and (b) if you ever try this be sure to use a depth stop collar!!! :eek:
 
#28 ·
One more thing... there's a recent thread on the forum called "Cracked Differential". The poster is dealing with a cracked RDM. The metal doesn't look all that thick. I'd be afraid of hairline cracks at the newly drilled hole. Could be a problem with no end. Interesting thought though!

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#36 ·
I guess that was my point about the filter, that it must also be considered lifetime by Jeep. If so, the filter must be for larger particles but not truly cleaning the fluid of micro wear products, otherwise it would get plugged up. Periodic drain and refills removes at least some of the micro wear products that come out with the old. I think it is similar to the engine oil changes in that the internals stay cleaner when you change oil often before it is super black and contaminated. This results in less build up in small passageways. Additionally, replacing some fluid periodically should help maintain the fluid specs closer to new. This car is propelled by less than 7 quarts of fluid. After many years and many miles, it can't still be as good as new. I guess, IMHO, the fluid maintenance is much more important than the filter change.

I consider it a vicious cycle. If you wait too long, you shouldn't change the fluid, but by them saying it is lifetime fluid, it leads people to wait too long.
 
#42 ·
I guess that was my point about the filter, that it must also be considered lifetime by Jeep. If so, the filter must be for larger particles but not truly cleaning the fluid of micro wear products, otherwise it would get plugged up. Periodic drain and refills removes at least some of the micro wear products that come out with the old. I think it is similar to the engine oil changes in that the internals stay cleaner when you change oil often before it is super black and contaminated. This results in less build up in small passageways. Additionally, replacing some fluid periodically should help maintain the fluid specs closer to new. This car is propelled by less than 7 quarts of fluid. After many years and many miles, it can't still be as good as new. I guess, IMHO, the fluid maintenance is much more important than the filter change.

I consider it a vicious cycle. If you wait too long, you shouldn't change the fluid, but by them saying it is lifetime fluid, it leads people to wait too long.
Complicating this matter further, it's extremely unlikely the filter is any different than what ZF uses in their own. As far as I can work out, the only real differences between the ZF 9HP, and the Chrysler variant (which is still the ZF 9HP) is simply the mounting bolt locations. Internally, they're identical as far as I can work out, so the filters should be the same. The only difference would be simply the part number as those are brand specific. It would serve no purpose to make bespoke parts for Chrysler's own vehicles rather than using what is already provided by ZF.

Personally, I consider the term "lifetime" fluid to be hugely misleading, and I'm surprised no one has filed a class action lawsuit yet. Though, given how it would appear many don't keep their cars more than a few years anyway, they wouldn't own the cars long enough for it to be an issue.

But I've also encountered similar wording regarding the Eaton Supercharger in my 2005 Mini Cooper S. Mini had stated themselves the fluid inside the supercharger was a "lifetime" fluid. I've even spoken directly to one of the best Mini mechanics in the country, and he says that the longevity of that fluid is a "your mileage will vary." type deal. Some fluids dried up, and chewed away at the gears after 30k miles, and others he said lasted nearly 250k miles before a service.

In my case, I serviced the supercharger at about 168k miles, and to my surprise, there was still a lot of fluid left in it. Could've easily lasted into 200k miles I reckon. But considering the supercharger drives the water pump, plus there's a lot of seals and gaskets, you might not even reach the end of its "life" on the fluid before other components wear out first.
 
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#39 ·
I used a few resources. The thread on this sight helped alot. I will add the link. There are also a couple of websites that explain. Search for cherokee 9 speed atf fluid change. Getting to the plug for the fill and level check is the hardest part. I believe with the 4 cylinder you need to take off the front driverside wheel well liner.
 
#40 ·
 
#45 ·
Hi @hoggem , I did my 2014 TH trans fluid at 170k miles and made a world of difference in the shift smoothness (I actually did 3 drain/fills using Pentosin over a month's time). A "clunk" could be coming from many things such as suspension, not just drivetrain so you might want to investigate further.

To change the fluid in the PTU (transfer case) on a TH which is AD2, it's somewhat difficult (I/M/O). You need to remove the front and center skid plates but the larger issue is getting to the fill hole as it behind a heat shield that will need to be bent back/partially cut off and even then, the fill hole is hard to access with a tube to drain and fill it. I think the more likely option will be to top it off but there are others here on the forum that can probably give a much better account of how they handled it on their Cherokee. Note, the AD1 units are much easier as the fill hole is in an easier-to-access position but that doesn't help of course on a TH or any other AD2 Cherokee.

Are you certain where the clunk is coming from? Thoughts?
 
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