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Me n the colleagues had a foam party

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Getting set for the 4th!
 

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Changed the oil yesterday. I was a little early on changing it (around 20-25% life left), but when I took Badger in for the V69 Recall the other week, the guy reset my oil life indicator for no reason, so figured I'd change it now instead of much later (I was around 30% remaining at the time of the recall).

Some of you will think it's sacrilege, but I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-20 for the last couple oil changes. I went with High Mileage because I knew my Jeep was consuming oil (I put at least a full quart about midway through the life of the oil, and the oil level was close to another quart low by the time I changed it after around 7k miles or so when I last used regular Full Synthetic Pennzoil Platinum).

After switching to HM, I noticed a decreased in oil consumption my first go around (cut down about half), and then this oil change, it was down to about a 1/2 quart low when I changed it. Keep in mind, due to lots of idling these past few months, it was only at 4.5k miles, but engine hours I'm sure was in line with that a typical 7-8k mile change would be.

I'll continue to use M1 HM for now, see how my oil consumption fairs as my Jeep climbs in the miles, and maybe I'll switch to Pennzoil HM, and see how that fairs as well, or other brands that have a HM variant. Realistically, you shouldn't have to put more oil between changes, at least I don't think so. I call BS on places that say 1 quart every 1-2k miles is normal. I don't believe that for a second.
 
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Changed the oil yesterday. I was a little early on changing it (around 20-25% life left), but when I took Badger in for the V69 Recall the other week, the guy reset my oil life indicator for no reason, so figured I'd change it now instead of much later (I was around 30% remaining at the time of the recall).

Some of you will think it's sacrilege, but I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w-20 for the last couple oil changes. I went with High Mileage because I knew my Jeep was consuming oil (I put at least a full quart about midway through the life of the oil, and the oil level was close to another quart low by the time I changed it after around 7k miles or so when I last used regular Full Synthetic Pennzoil Platinum).

After switching to HM, I noticed a decreased in oil consumption my first go around (cut down about half), and then this oil change, it was down to about a 1/2 quart low when I changed it. Keep in mind, due to lots of idling these past few months, it was only at 4.5k miles, but engine hours I'm sure was in line with that a typical 7-8k mile change would be.

I'll continue to use M1 HM for now, see how my oil consumption fairs as my Jeep climbs in the miles, and maybe I'll switch to Pennzoil HM, and see how that fairs as well, or other brands that have a HM variant. Realistically, you shouldn't have to put more oil between changes, at least I don't think so. I call BS on places that say 1 quart every 1-2k miles is normal. I don't believe that for a second.
Interesting !

What's funny is that their "Mobil Super High Mileage" blend is MS-6395 certified, but not M1 High Mileage which is superior full synthetic. Like discussed ad nauseam here on the forum, to spec or not to spec M1 is about a bruised ego, not about oil spec. M1 used to meet MS-6395 in the days they had a partnership with Chrysler. Not they don't, Shell (Pennzoil) does.

Mine does consume a bit of oil as well, similar to yours. I may try M1 HM.
 

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Interesting !

What's funny is that their "Mobil Super High Mileage" blend is MS-6395 certified, but not M1 High Mileage which is superior full synthetic. Like discussed ad nauseam here on the forum, to spec or not to spec M1 is about a bruised ego, not about oil spec. M1 used to meet MS-6395 in the days they had a partnership with Chrysler. Not they don't, Shell (Pennzoil) does.

Mine does consume a bit of oil as well, similar to yours. I may try M1 HM.
Yeah, I'm mostly doing this as an experiment, and I figured as long as I'm using the correct weight of oil, brand in theory should be irrelevant. I have over 133k miles on mine, and when I was over 110k miles or so, that's when I made the change.

As part of my experiment, I'm now going to keep track of my engine hours, using my Trip odometer as a base. For my Trip B, which I reset at the beginning of the calendar year, it listed 28hrs, and naturally, it only goes up to 99hrs 99min, and then rolls over, so I'll try to keep tabs on when it does roll over, and add on the hours from there. I'd like to get an idea on the engine hours I'm putting in between changes. I'm sure in the internal computer, it probably keeps that information, but it doesn't appear to be something we normally can see unless we have a special OBD reader perhaps.
 
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Yeah, I'm mostly doing this as an experiment, and I figured as long as I'm using the correct weight of oil, brand in theory should be irrelevant. I have over 133k miles on mine, and when I was over 110k miles or so, that's when I made the change.

As part of my experiment, I'm now going to keep track of my engine hours, using my Trip odometer as a base. For my Trip B, which I reset at the beginning of the calendar year, it listed 28hrs, and naturally, it only goes up to 99hrs 99min, and then rolls over, so I'll try to keep tabs on when it does roll over, and add on the hours from there. I'd like to get an idea on the engine hours I'm putting in between changes. I'm sure in the internal computer, it probably keeps that information, but it doesn't appear to be something we normally can see unless we have a special OBD reader perhaps.
I would think a decent scan tool would give you engine hours.

As far as M1 being "Ok" for our engines : pff yeah, they likely far exceed MS-6395. And the spec isn't mandatory, it is only recommended (favoritism comes into play here). I would definitely not worry about M1 one little bit.
 

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I would think a decent scan tool would give you engine hours.

As far as M1 being "Ok" for our engines : pff yeah, they likely far exceed MS-6395. And the spec isn't mandatory, it is only recommended (favoritism comes into play here). I would definitely not worry about M1 one little bit.
According to Ford, 1 hr of ilding time is about 25 miles of driving time. Based on that, I would assume they're thinking highway speeds, so ~60mph I reckon. I know based on the Oil life indicator, from 100% to 0% if you did all highway miles would be 10k miles (probably hence why they say not to exceed a maximum of 10k miles or 1 year between changes). Based on this, you might be able to get a rough idea on your engine hours based upon how many miles you reached per your oil life indicator, and then cross reference your previous oil changes based on how your gap in miles was.

And yeah, in general, I don't worry about Mobil 1's quality of engine oil. I know Costco recently started selling Mobil 1 high mileage, but so far in the store, I've only seen 5w-30, which is perfect for my Mini, but not so for the Jeep. If they do sell in store the 5w-20, I might get that, so it's one package of oil per oil change (6 1qt bottles they offer)
 

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Installed some Yakima crossbars and Rhino Rack kayak mounts. Got everything from etrailer.com and I'm pretty happy with it. Hit me up if you have any questions about which bars to buy - I tried out a few before settling on the Yakima CoreBar. I'm sure there are plenty of forum threads on the topic as well.

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Finished replacing my tie rods the other day. I busted my right inner on the trail a couple weeks ago and had to do an emergency replacement the next day on the side of a mountain (after getting a ride 2 hours back to town from a gracious stranger). Now I have both inners and outers done.


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Installed some Falken Wildpeak A/T tires a week and a half ago. Also decided to take it to a nice weekend getaway up to North Wisconsin for a nice camping trip. 6 hour drive from Chicago.





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Finished replacing my tie rods the other day. I busted my right inner on the trail a couple weeks ago and had to do an emergency replacement the next day on the side of a mountain (after getting a ride 2 hours back to town from a gracious stranger). Now I have both inners and outers done.


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Nice work. In your experience, what is the overall difficulty of replacing those on the Cherokee? Fairly easy, or is it a lot of maneuvering to get to anything?
 

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Installed some Falken Wildpeak A/T tires a week and a half ago. Also decided to take it to a nice weekend getaway up to North Wisconsin for a nice camping trip. 6 hour drive from Chicago.





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Installed some Falken Wildpeak A/T tires a week and a half ago. Also decided to take it to a nice weekend getaway up to North Wisconsin for a nice camping trip. 6 hour drive from Chicago.





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What size did you go with. I plan on installing them too. Very Soon!!

Thanks.
 
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Nice work. In your experience, what is the overall difficulty of replacing those on the Cherokee? Fairly easy, or is it a lot of maneuvering to get to anything?
I'd rate it "pretty easy". Make sure you have the right tie rod puller. Rent or buy the set in the lime green case, it has several different size crows feet. The replacement tie rod I bought from Napa was a different size than OEM (which caused me hours of frustration while doing the job out on the trail). By different size I mean it requires a different size socket. When I did it in my garage and had the right tools, it was not difficult. The only place where anything is difficult to access is where the inboard end of the inner tie rod is tucked away. Getting the crows foot onto the flats of the inner tie rod can be a little tricky due to having so little room to work with, particularly on the passenger side where there's a heat shield that doesn't exist on the drivers. If you have big sausage fingers it will be even harder, haha! Getting the inboard side of the boot back onto the steering gear housing (I believe that's what it is...) is a little tricky for the same reason. Just takes patience and caution. I used a long zip tie to secure it, since you have to destroy the original clamp to take it off. No big deal IMO. The outers are no sweat to replace. Hardest part is freeing the stud from the steering knuckle, but if you're not planning on re-using the outer, you can just beat it out from below with a hammer, backing the nut off to the edge of the threads. (You could even do this if you plan to re-use the outer, but I'd exercise more caution). On one side, the metal bushing that adapts the outer tie rod stud to the steering knuckle came out with the outer tie rod, and luckily I had a puller handy that worked to pop it loose.

All in all, "pretty easy".


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Did you buy the body side moldings like that or did you have a body shop paint it ? Looks awesome ! Always wanted to do something like that to avoid the fading issue.


Replaced the factory painted wheels with gloss black OEM wheels. Looks much better IMO to have the black wheels that more closely match the diamond black painted bodyside moldings.
View attachment 211222 View attachment 211223
 

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Installed a Carplay/Android auto retrofit, cost is cheaper than a new 4C radio but it does take some time to put in "1hr-2hrs neat cable management?"


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Went swimming in the WY backcountry. The Shoshone Lake trail was brutal; felt kind a 7 or a hard 6. Awesome views of the Wind River mountains and Cirque of the Towers from Cyclone Pass.
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Went rock climbing there in 2014 on a 10-day trip. It felt like 3 months.
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Took Badger in primarily for the V69 recall, and then asked them to rotate the tires, and do the alignment since I knew it was off with excessive negative camber.

I also had them diagnose the issues I had with the power liftgate, as well as why 4Low wasn’t able to engage.

The dealer determined the motor for the liftgate failed, which I already suspected. The lack of 4Low was more interesting as they determined “an internal failure inside the PTU.”

I asked them to quote me on those potential repairs, and it was $495 plus tax for a new motor unit for the liftgate. For a replacement PTU, they quoted me $2311 Plus tax. I told them to hold off on those items though.

I do likely at some point will have the PTU replaced, but not now. The liftgate I should be able to replace myself provided the wire connections are not difficult to get at.

Does over $2300 for a new PTU seem about right? I was considering on asking one of my local mechanics who has worked on my Jeep before, and could see what kind of quote they would provide.

And before you ask, I have over 133k miles on it.
That's about what it cost me. I got the dealer to knock the price down by quoting online pricing and shipping. It saved about $200-300.
 

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Did you buy the body side moldings like that or did you have a body shop paint it ? Looks awesome ! Always wanted to do something like that to avoid the fading issue.
No, they came from the factory like that. That was apparently one of the differences with the Tech Connect edition. Not sure if it was like that for all years, but the 2018 was that way. I love the trim being painted with Diamond Black...it has the metallic flecks like the body paint has and looks really good. If you notice, the front fascia is also a bit different from the standard fascia.
 
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