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Fingers crossed it's the injector !
Me too. I'm a decent DIY mechanic, so worst case scenario I'd replace the entire front bank of the rocker arms, and lifters. Based on what I've read, rarely should the camshaft also be replaced unless it's seriously damaged. So I drive my Mini to work for the next week or two. Oh darn... :cool:

I've gotten pretty good at removing the intake manifold in order to get to the spark plugs/coilpacks in less than 20min over the last couple days, so removing the valve cover, and getting to removal of camshaft, and replace rocker arms/lifters shouldn't in theory be terribly difficult.

When I went to Oreilly's the other day to pick up the spark plugs, I decided to pick up the Dorman upgraded filter housing also, as I could see small amount of oil accumulating in the V of the engine. I made a comment to the cashier that my Jeep has almost 180k miles, and he was rather impressed, but also wondered why I'd spend the money for an upgraded part instead of just getting another. If I want to drive this thing for least another 4 years, and then have 250-300k miles on the thing, I'd rather spend the money now so it's taken care of. Hell, it's cheaper than buying a different car. :ROFLMAO:

Funnily enough, on a side note, my parents traded in their 2007 Chevy Tahoe that my Dad has had for better part of nearly 15 years, and they traded it in for a 2013 Grand Cherokee Overland w/ the Pentastar. My Dad, a former city Bus mechanic, has also read a good bunch of the Penastars, and we're both in agreement that overall, the V6 is a robust powerplant with only a few quirks (rocker arms being one of the most common).
 

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Me too. I'm a decent DIY mechanic, so worst case scenario I'd replace the entire front bank of the rocker arms, and lifters. Based on what I've read, rarely should the camshaft also be replaced unless it's seriously damaged. So I drive my Mini to work for the next week or two. Oh darn... :cool:

I've gotten pretty good at removing the intake manifold in order to get to the spark plugs/coilpacks in less than 20min over the last couple days, so removing the valve cover, and getting to removal of camshaft, and replace rocker arms/lifters shouldn't in theory be terribly difficult.

When I went to Oreilly's the other day to pick up the spark plugs, I decided to pick up the Dorman upgraded filter housing also, as I could see small amount of oil accumulating in the V of the engine. I made a comment to the cashier that my Jeep has almost 180k miles, and he was rather impressed, but also wondered why I'd spend the money for an upgraded part instead of just getting another. If I want to drive this thing for least another 4 years, and then have 250-300k miles on the thing, I'd rather spend the money now so it's taken care of. Hell, it's cheaper than buying a different car. :ROFLMAO:

Funnily enough, on a side note, my parents traded in their 2007 Chevy Tahoe that my Dad has had for better part of nearly 15 years, and they traded it in for a 2013 Grand Cherokee Overland w/ the Pentastar. My Dad, a former city Bus mechanic, has also read a good bunch of the Penastars, and we're both in agreement that overall, the V6 is a robust powerplant with only a few quirks (rocker arms being one of the most common).
After your last post I thought about one thing you might try, and now that I know you're comfy and quick getting to plugs, perhaps a quick compression test... to rule out a bad valve seat. I'm mentionning it because our taxi fleet operator @Desoto once mentionned he had dealt with this on some of this fleet KLs, suffering from misfires. Valve seat is probably the least common cause of misfires on a Pentastar, but something to keep in mind. A compression test rules it out quickly, as long as you can get in there.
 

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After your last post I thought about one thing you might try, and now that I know you're comfy and quick getting to plugs, perhaps a quick compression test... to rule out a bad valve seat. I'm mentionning it because our taxi fleet operator @Desoto once mentionned he had dealt with this on some of this fleet KLs, suffering from misfires. Valve seat is probably the least common cause of misfires on a Pentastar, but something to keep in mind. A compression test rules it out quickly, as long as you can get in there.
I'd have to check if my Dad has a compression tester (he most likely does), but I did take a quick look at the valves after removing the manifold originally, and they all looked quite good overall, cylinder #4 included, even after that many miles on it.

Speaking of Desoto, didn't he normally have his fleet with the 2.4l engine rather than the 3.2L? Not that it doesn't negate a possible bad valve seat or anything as it can happen with any vehicle, but was curious if this is more an issue with the 2.4 rather than the 3.2.

Btw, I did do an ohm test with the injectors using a multimeter earlier, and confirmed that all injectors read 12-14 ohms, so that rules out a bad injector.
 

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I'd have to check if my Dad has a compression tester (he most likely does), but I did take a quick look at the valves after removing the manifold originally, and they all looked quite good overall, cylinder #4 included, even after that many miles on it.

Speaking of Desoto, didn't he normally have his fleet with the 2.4l engine rather than the 3.2L? Not that it doesn't negate a possible bad valve seat or anything as it can happen with any vehicle, but was curious if this is more an issue with the 2.4 rather than the 3.2.

Btw, I did do an ohm test with the injectors using a multimeter earlier, and confirmed that all injectors read 12-14 ohms, so that rules out a bad injector.
See here : 2014 Cherokee Sport P0301 Code
(go back and read the whole thing for context... but it seems he is talking about the V6 there)


Desoto's fleet had both engines. He even did testing for FCA on V6s running 5 quarts of oil instead of 6.


Gotcha on the multimeter read for injectors. Darn..
 

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2020 Trailhawk 2.0T Diamond Black
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That looks great. Good job. Now maybe red trimmed grille inserts :)
View attachment 220754
Hahaha I don’t know if that's for me!! I thought about doing the single insert Ala Dakar style. but the red is a little too bright compared to the darker red tow hooks. Same with my pin stripe, but less noticeable
I finally installed a Garmin dash cam with a Dongar 10 pin adapter to get power from the rear view mirror connector in my 2014 Trailhawk.
wow that's incredible I Never knew there was power there. makes sense. is it ALWAYS ON? or just when the car is on?
 

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Gas Auto part Metal Fashion accessory Machine

I finally had some time to look in depth at the cams of the front bank of the engine, and I think I confirm what was causing the ticking noise.

For those unaware, the cams should look about as smooth as glass, but in this case for Cylinder #4, you can see some early signs of scoring, which if not addressed, the failed rocker arm will literally chew away at the cam lobes.

Given there is no physical damage to the cams, and I caught this early on, there’s no need to replace the cam.
 
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Today’s update:

Using MotorCity Mechanic’s YT videos as a guide, plus my Haynes manual, I replaced all twelve rocker arms, and lifters on the left bank of the engine.

Don’t have a photo, but it was that single rocker arm that was bad, and luckily, it was only starting to fail, and the bearing wobble was nowhere near as bad as some rocker arms I’ve seen folks post.

It did take some effort at first because the timing chain guide tool would not stay in place for whatever reason. I eventually said screw it, and wedged a screwdriver with the guide tool to hold the part in place so I could pull back the cam phasers, and actually remove the camshaft. Once I did that, the whole process of swapping out parts took less than an hour.

Torqued everything back up, installed new gaskets for the valve cover, and managed to wiggle it into place while maneuvering around the coolant hoses and brackets. Doing this whole job on the 3.6 where most applications are longitudinal would be a lot easier IMO.

Tomorrow, I’m going to replace the oil filter housing with the upgraded Dorman part, button everything back up, add oil and coolant as necessary, and this project will be DONE.
 

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So I decided against the oil filter housing because I did not consider it to be a critical maintenance problem at this point. I have the parts, and removing the intakes are not that bad, so I’ll monitor the oil, and coolant levels for the time being. I did re-torque the filter housing just in case as I did notice a couple bolts that were not as their proper torque setting.

I bought some more coolant prior as the expansion tank was low, but after buttoning everything up, the Jeep started right up, and no codes came up. The idle was nice, and smooth, and also drove it around the block.

The rocker arms was definitely the issue, and it was only the one for cylinder 4. I have a good amount of driving tomorrow, so that’ll be a good test to make sure everything is all good.
 
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