2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums banner

2001 - 2020 of 2021 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Not today but over the weekend:
Replaced the spark plugs. They were the OEM Champion plugs w/ just under 90k on the clock, and gaps had expanded to about .062. I'll probably replace them in shorter intervals from now on. Also, since the upper intake manifold was coming off to get those in, I took out the factory lower intake manifold and replaced it with the upgraded PUG lower intake manifold. Don't have too much drive time with it on yet, but it feels like the hole around 2k RPM has been filled some.

20200813_220614.jpg


Today:
Got my windows tinted. Dig the look, and I've noticed less eye strain while driving and less heat from direct light.

211780
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
124 Posts
I did a thing today

211912


@Tyler-98-W68 was, as usual, completely correct. The drone is real.

The overall volume isn't unbearable, but the drone at lower RPMs is quite loud. The exhaust sound itself isn't nearly as loud as I thought it would be. City driving will likely be annoying, but highway and sport mode helps get rid of the drone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Today I put the OEM trailer hitch on my cherokee. A little twist to it though, I patched the curt wiring kit into the oem pigtail/plug. Here's a bit of a breakdown of the process for anyone else who is thinking about it

Before installing the wiring watch this video a few times to get a feel for it. Its super helpful >

Before installing the bumper watch this video a few times to get a feel for it. Its also super helpful >

A bought a hitch from a junkyard (off a trailhawk with about 20k miles on it) around me for $125 (compared to $270 from the dealer). A bonus though, it came with the OEM plug and about a foot pigtail that they just cut off when they pulled it from the wreck apparently.

211917


It had a little but of surface rust around the exposed hitch area that I spent about 10 min hitting with my orbital sander and then put a quick coat of black rattle can over the top of and it looks good as new. I also had some forever black around (Amazon.com: Forever Black Bumper & Trim Kit (NEW Improved Formula & Larger Size): Automotive) that I used to make the plug and jeep hitch plug look like new as well

I bought the Curt 56208 wiring kit (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HB68SD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and wired that into the oem plug. It was surprisingly easy. On the face of the oem plug it shows what wire goes where, just match your wires up to the curt plug (green to green, yellow to yellow, curt white to oem black and curt brown to oem white/brown stripe) and you are all set. I left all other wires unattached. To get the curt wire to the back bumper I went thru the set of vents on the back driver side. I used a handful of zip ties to keep it up and out of the way of the muffler
211916

211913


211918


Also for mounting I bought 6 H811 bumper bolts from autozone as the OEM ones (part number 6507152AA) were like $25 apiece! (https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-caliper-bolt-guide-pin-rear/duralast-brake-caliper-bolt-guide-pin-h811/390515_0?rrec=true) and they worked great. Initially the hitch didn't line up perfectly, but it was close. The driver side I had to stick a mini prybar in to raise it a bit between the bottom of the hitch and the frame and after 5-10 min of fiddling with it, I was able to get all 6 bolts started w/o issue

Got my hitch bezel (82214562) here > Amazon.com: Mopar Genuine 82214562 Trailer Hitch Bezel: Automotive . It came new in box with templates and fasteners

Install time:

2-3 hours for wiring (over 1/2 the time was spent getting the wire from the rear of the Cherokee to the battery)
3-4 hours for bumper

I did the wiring one day and the bumper the next, just to break it up

Tools needed for bumper

For the wheel well - 1 in each well
3/8 8mm rachet
3/8 10mm rachet

Remove wheel well trim
A trim stick pressing on the inner part under the inner fender, while pulling from the outside. I ended up breaking a clip on the driver side which I superglued and it it went back in fine when I installed it. There is also a T27 star bolt under each piece of trim.

Underside of the facia
3/8 8mm rachet - 4 total

I used a pair of scissors to destroy the rivet holding the 2 pieces of facia together under the bumper in each corner. After I put the bumper back on I replaced this rivet using these fasteners https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017UBHQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 just because I had them around but a zip tie would have worked

Tail lights
T27 star bolts - 4 total, 2 in each light

Remove bumper
1/2 13mm rachet

I used a dremel to cut a hole in the facia to put the bezel in. I used the guy in the video's advice of how to cut/tape the templates and a fine point sharpie to get a marking for the holes for the bezel push pins. I did not end up using the 4 pins at the bottom of the bezel, it seemed very secure using just the push pins so I rolled with that.

Put new bumper on
1/2 21mm rachet

Tools needed for wiring

Wire stippers
Wire crimper (pliers)
Wire snips
Razer knife
Electric tape
4 wire taps to get the curt wiring to the OEM pig tail (Gardner Bender® 16-14 AWG Blue Tap Splice - 25 Count)

Though not required to test my wiring I used a simple light tester found here https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769070?partTypeName=Circuit+Tester&keywordInput=circuit+tester . With the car on I tested each turn signal and with the headlights on to make sure it was working

I also used a set of wheel ramps to be able to crawl under to get the wire from the back to the battery

Here is the before

211914


and the after

211915


I'm super happy with the result. I'm no mechanic but will try most things if there is decent youtube on it. Its not as hard as you may think, just take your time and double-check your work on youtube as needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
When I had the front of my TH XPEL'd a couple of years ago, they put the Jeep badge back on, but I've never been happy with it, as it's always been a little off. Plus, I always liked the red trim on the Grand Cherokee badge. I finally swapped out the hood badge last week:





 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
124 Posts
Laid down some Noico butyl sound deadener in the spare tire/trunk area. I also put a layer of 4mm closed cell foam on top of it (not pictured).

It totally mellowed out the city driving drone, but did nothing for hwy drone.

I have a lot of both left over, so I'm thinking I'll add some to the liftgate today and see if that helps a little more too.

My next step after will probably be replacing my stock tips with resonated ones that extend a bit beyond the bumper holes instead of in their stock position.

It's totally my mission to see how far I can go to reduce that super 10 drone, mostly for shits'n'giggles. Probably not the most economical way, but it's fun to play around.

211962
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
861 Posts
After 9 months, I finally finished installing the rear dash cam wiring, plus tucking all cables in front inside the A pillar (which isn’t exactly easy, but it’s doable). I fed the rear USB cable through the rubber covering that goes from the rear hatch to the body, and had the wire come out of the rear speaker cover.

The remaining wire followed along the interior of the car on the ground, and went up into the driver side a pillar, and out the headliner where it meets with the windshield. It’s all tucked up in there, so it shouldn’t fall down.

I also took the time to hardwire the power through the interior fuse panel using a similar method as before with the A pillar, but on the passenger side. The remaining cable for the power lies at the bottom of the front dash where the windshield, and front speakers are. Again, all nicely tucked away. :cool:

212089
212090
212091
212092
212093


So yes, it is possible to install a rear dash cam on the lift gate, and make it look rather nice and tidy. (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
After 9 months, I finally finished installing the rear dash cam wiring, plus tucking all cables in front inside the A pillar (which isn’t exactly easy, but it’s doable). I fed the rear USB cable through the rubber covering that goes from the rear hatch to the body, and had the wire come out of the rear speaker cover.

The remaining wire followed along the interior of the car on the ground, and went up into the driver side a pillar, and out the headliner where it meets with the windshield. It’s all tucked up in there, so it shouldn’t fall down.

I also took the time to hardwire the power through the interior fuse panel using a similar method as before with the A pillar, but on the passenger side. The remaining cable for the power lies at the bottom of the front dash where the windshield, and front speakers are. Again, all nicely tucked away. :cool:

View attachment 212089 View attachment 212090 View attachment 212091 View attachment 212092 View attachment 212093

So yes, it is possible to install a rear dash cam on the lift gate, and make it look rather nice and tidy. (y)
Nice work!

I keep meaning to put a rear dash cam in mine too, but the uncertainty about the 2019+ tailgates gives me pause. And I hate seeing wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
861 Posts
Nice work!

I keep meaning to put a rear dash cam in mine too, but the uncertainty about the 2019+ tailgates gives me pause. And I hate seeing wires.
It's interesting because when I got mine, I knew that rear dash cams with a wire connecting to the front were really designed for two types of vehicles: Sedans, and Trucks. Minivans, Hatchbacks, SUV/Crossovers; practically any vehicle with a rear hatch is a recipe for your wiring to be all wonky if not tucked in properly. And you certainly cannot attach the cam itself to the window, and have the wire be a separate piece, or simply tucked into the headliner. It has to be part of the hatch itself, or you face stretching wires.

Initially, my thought was to get one of those coiled USB cables that are very springy, and recoil when not under tension, but I realized in my mind fairly quickly it'll just get in the way of my rear visibility, so it was back to the drawing board (length of the cable itself was another issue). I knew any bit of wiring for the liftgate locking mechanism, and the rear wiper were tucked inside the hatch itself, and had a rubber condom connecting the body, and the liftgate. At that point, it was a case of if I could pop off the plastic trim panels, then I should have access.

Truth be told, it wasn't the most straight forward to feed the USB cable through the rubber condom as I had to stretch and compress it like a snake slithering through the ground. Where to find the exit for the cable though I did not really have much of a choice at the time because going along the headliner on the driver side might in theory work, although I wasn't about to remove it in order to make it happen. So I went with the next best thing: the Rear speaker hole. Keep in mind I have the 9 Speaker system upgrade, so I don't know how my method would work if you have the standard audio setup. I'm sure though there is a hole somewhere around there that'll allow the cable itself to exit, and you're good to go.

The A Pillar like I said is more tricky because both the A pillar cover, and the headliner are kind of together in that in order to remove that plastic A pillar cover (if you wanted to), you almost have to lower a portion of the headliner to access it. So I just pried it downward to give me JUST enough room to fit the mini USB cable through, and separating the rubber door trim from the plastic pillar, which was some trial and error of mostly feeling my way, and hoping I could get a hold of it. Folks with big sausage fingers might not have the best luck with this approach.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Heard a moving creature on my engine and I think it's just a rat or a skunk playing around so got to check if everythings fine. Thank God nothing broke!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,145 Posts
It's interesting because when I got mine, I knew that rear dash cams with a wire connecting to the front were really designed for two types of vehicles: Sedans, and Trucks. Minivans, Hatchbacks, SUV/Crossovers; practically any vehicle with a rear hatch is a recipe for your wiring to be all wonky if not tucked in properly. And you certainly cannot attach the cam itself to the window, and have the wire be a separate piece, or simply tucked into the headliner. It has to be part of the hatch itself, or you face stretching wires.

Initially, my thought was to get one of those coiled USB cables that are very springy, and recoil when not under tension, but I realized in my mind fairly quickly it'll just get in the way of my rear visibility, so it was back to the drawing board (length of the cable itself was another issue). I knew any bit of wiring for the liftgate locking mechanism, and the rear wiper were tucked inside the hatch itself, and had a rubber condom connecting the body, and the liftgate. At that point, it was a case of if I could pop off the plastic trim panels, then I should have access.

Truth be told, it wasn't the most straight forward to feed the USB cable through the rubber condom as I had to stretch and compress it like a snake slithering through the ground. Where to find the exit for the cable though I did not really have much of a choice at the time because going along the headliner on the driver side might in theory work, although I wasn't about to remove it in order to make it happen. So I went with the next best thing: the Rear speaker hole. Keep in mind I have the 9 Speaker system upgrade, so I don't know how my method would work if you have the standard audio setup. I'm sure though there is a hole somewhere around there that'll allow the cable itself to exit, and you're good to go.

The A Pillar like I said is more tricky because both the A pillar cover, and the headliner are kind of together in that in order to remove that plastic A pillar cover (if you wanted to), you almost have to lower a portion of the headliner to access it. So I just pried it downward to give me JUST enough room to fit the mini USB cable through, and separating the rubber door trim from the plastic pillar, which was some trial and error of mostly feeling my way, and hoping I could get a hold of it. Folks with big sausage fingers might not have the best luck with this approach.
Yeah, when I added a rear camera to my Caliber I did just that - ran the wires through the rubber boot, its a tedious process for sure, but I was happy with how it looked factory after I did it!

The 2019 hatch is all plastic, so the interior trim panel up there doesn't seem to come off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
861 Posts
Yeah, when I added a rear camera to my Caliber I did just that - ran the wires through the rubber boot, its a tedious process for sure, but I was happy with how it looked factory after I did it!

The 2019 hatch is all plastic, so the interior trim panel up there doesn't seem to come off.
Wait, really? The hatch is one giant single piece of composite, and the trim panels are not able to be popped off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,385 Posts
@Snowhawk2015 That's a true testament to the Wildpeaks, if you wore them out and went right back and bought the same pair. LT245/75?

And mannn you must drive a lot! I put over 45k on mine and still had way more meat on them than your picture suggests. And I believe I got mine before you IIRC (bought mine in December '17.) I finally just got bored of them and went with something different (even though they were truly excellent tires). Still had about 8/32" of tread left, and America's Tire actually bought the set back from me for $80.

via tapatalk : 2014 V6 Trailhawk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
This week I had a local shop create me some stainless steel cross bars for my Rocky Road Roof Rails. Previously had the Rocky Road cross rails, but after a bit over a year, they began to rust. Since I put my Roof Top tent on them, they were going to get even worse... :)

212273
212272
 
2001 - 2020 of 2021 Posts
Top