2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums banner

1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I lost my Thread location and must respond here to all the help I received investigating the waxing process and associated materials needed.
I went to Harbor Freight as one here suggested and it was a great place. Got it all = Buffer, wax, cloths, etc..
Did the TH up yesterday. Came out great and the buffer is bad-ass.
Thanks for all who helped me in this inquiry.
212426

Wasoon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Looking good! I also have a Harbor Freight random orbital polisher and use the Bauer pads. Both perform and have held up very well for the price.

What did you use for wax? Not a good selection at Harbor Freight, but any wax is better than nothing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,056 Posts
So I lost my Thread location and must respond here to all the help I received investigating the waxing process and associated materials needed.
I went to Harbor Freight as one here suggested and it was a great place. Got it all = Buffer, wax, cloths, etc..
Did the TH up yesterday. Came out great and the buffer is bad-ass.
Thanks for all who helped me in this inquiry. View attachment 212426
Wasoon
OG looking great!!! What kind of crossbars do you have? Are those the Mopar Thule in solid black???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Looking good! I also have a Harbor Freight random orbital polisher and use the Bauer pads. Both perform and have held up very well for the price.

What did you use for wax? Not a good selection at Harbor Freight, but any wax is better than nothing!
I got it at Harbor Freight. Easy stuff to use. Time will tell, but I thimk it will withstand the snow that I anticipate plowing through. Tell me about the Bauer pads. I bought the terry cloths for application and the buffer fluffy micro for buffing.
212427
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
OG looking great!!! What kind of crossbars do you have? Are those the Mopar Thule in solid black???
Yea, I bought them from my Jeep dealer who ordered through Thule. They were backordered for a long time, as I forsaw given the Virus. They are the Aero bars with the wing configuration to alleviate noise. I ordered these months ago and I also ordered a Thule Ski Box months ago forseeing a surge in ordering now as the limited amount of lift tickets will creat a great demand - MY OPINION - we shall see - anyhow my box is in at my Trek bike sho - they ordered it from eTrailer.
212428
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,644 Posts
Max. 80 Mph?
 
  • Like
Reactions: rumrunner

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
No Compound.
Then Why get a DA and pads? That is the main purpose of a da polisher is to correct the paint (get rid of swirls). If waxing is all you wanted to do i would have saved all that money got a few microfiber towels and some turtle wax ice shine and seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
I got it at Harbor Freight. Easy stuff to use. Time will tell, but I thimk it will withstand the snow that I anticipate plowing through. Tell me about the Bauer pads. I bought the terry cloths for application and the buffer fluffy micro for buffing.
Your first post was misleading as you said you bought a buffer, but from this post I can see that you hand applied the wax. If you would of bought a random orbital buffer, you would of needed pads for it, such as the Bauer pads that I referred to.

That said, you don't neccessary need a buffer as hand applying works nearly as well, particularily in your case as you have a 2020 with a new paint job, so the type of paint correction a buffer can provide really isn't needed.

I would also note that the Miguiars product you applied isn't going to provide much lasting protection to your paint. That product is a glaze which is great for making the paint shine, but the protection doesn't last long. Since you mentioned snow you should really apply a wax that will give lasting protection. I would recommend a synthetic based wax as they provide longer paint protection than a carnuba type wax.

I suggest you go to a place like https://www.autogeek.net/ to learn more about car detailing. Autogeek has tons of info on detailing with how-to videos, etc. You can also buy every product under the sun from them. You can learn a lot from that site.
 
  • Like
Reactions: UN4GTBL

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Then Why get a DA and pads? That is the main purpose of a da polisher is to correct the paint (get rid of swirls). If waxing is all you wanted to do i would have saved all that money got a few microfiber towels and some turtle wax ice shine and seal.
I disagree. The Buffer makes fast work of it, and is much less labor intensive. I checked out the car wash. I walked through the tunnel and saw the floppy non-abrasive overhead system and the side spinners with the same material. After the wash there were no swirls. The wax job turned out great asyou can plainly see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Your first post was misleading as you said you bought a buffer, but from this post I can see that you hand applied the wax. If you would of bought a random orbital buffer, you would of needed pads for it, such as the Bauer pads that I referred to.

That said, you don't neccessary need a buffer as hand applying works nearly as well, particularily in your case as you have a 2020 with a new paint job, so the type of paint correction a buffer can provide really isn't needed.

I would also note that the Miguiars product you applied isn't going to provide much lasting protection to your paint. That product is a glaze which is great for making the paint shine, but the protection doesn't last long. Since you mentioned snow you should really apply a wax that will give lasting protection. I would recommend a synthetic based wax as they provide longer paint protection than a carnuba type wax.

I suggest you go to a place like https://www.autogeek.net/ to learn more about car detailing. Autogeek has tons of info on detailing with how-to videos, etc. You can also buy every product under the sun from them. You can learn a lot from that site.
Don't know how you thought I hand waxed. I did not. I used the Buffer. I searched and read on your Bauer pad. Not sure what the advantage of this is. I must do more research. I think your glaze suggestion may have merit, as I believe that a more substantial paste wax is probably a better alternative. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
There are plenty of people on this site that can help you the correct way to prep, correct, polish, finish the paint. Half the fun is learning it, then once its down to many it becomes therapeutic, or a way to relax.
But a quick run down on the steps even on a new car (you be surprised how bad even a car with 100 miles on it needs to be corrected).
1. Wash to get any and all lose debris off and use a soap that is will strip any coating that is on it like carpro reset.
2. Spray a chemical decon like ironX let it sit but not dry watch as all the iron fall out turn purple.
3. Rinse.
4. Clay bar (if the paint feels gritty, if smooth this can be skipped but i do it just to get the best surface to work with).
5. Wash with a reset soap again.
6. Correction this is where the buffer is needed. Depending how the paint looks it may need a deep cut or just a finishing polish. This is where you learn if you want to do a 3 step, 2 step or one step correction. Think of it as sanding you start with a courser grit and work your way to a finer ( we call it cutting). If your paint is in good shape then a finishing polish is all you need, but i would run a one step like 3D speed it has very light cutting depending on the pad you use, built in polish and some very basic protection.
7. IPA wipe down to get any compounding/polish oils cleaned off the paint.
8. Seal the paint. This is where you well get 1001 different answers on what is the best to use. This is also the fun part of testing out different products. Personally I would lay down some Jescar powerlocker, then topped with some collinite 845 wax.

This is why detailers charge hundreds of dollars to do this. Most of it is in the prep, putting the final sealant/wax on takes no time at all. The prep will make or break how well the protection layer works and last.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Then Why get a DA and pads? That is the main purpose of a da polisher is to correct the paint (get rid of swirls). If waxing is all you wanted to do i would have saved all that money got a few microfiber towels and some turtle wax ice shine and seal.
I agree with the Turtle Wax Spray Ice. I've used it for the last 3 years and it works great. Last week I put the winter coat on my KL just before our first snow yesterday.

Attached is a link for a previous thread on machine waxing vs hand waxing.


212430
 
  • Like
Reactions: rumrunner

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
I got it at Harbor Freight. Easy stuff to use. Time will tell, but I thimk it will withstand the snow that I anticipate plowing through. Tell me about the Bauer pads. I bought the terry cloths for application and the buffer fluffy micro for buffing.
Don't know how you thought I hand waxed. I did not. I used the Buffer. I searched and read on your Bauer pad. Not sure what the advantage of this is. I must do more research. I think your glaze suggestion may have merit, as I believe that a more substantial paste wax is probably a better alternative. Thanks.
You said you used terry cloths for application, therefore you hand waxed the car.

And when we talk of buffers or a DA polisher (dual action) we are talking about something like the picture below. The 'pads' I mentioned attach to the buffer. You then apply the product to the pad and use the buffer to apply it. Removal is then done by hand with a microfiber cloth.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: UN4GTBL

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
I also bought the HF buffer. I used it on my Miata, and have worked over the caps on my Motorhome to remove oxidation. My local HF carried Meguirs buffing compounds (I bought two of the buffing compounds of medium and finish grit) and a synthetic polish. The stuff worked really well (no pictures sorry). I did upgrade the pads to Lake Country and they have been very good thus far. I need to clay block the Cherokee if I am going to polish it, but truth be know....I would mess it up again in a couple of months.:rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I also bought the HF buffer. I used it on my Miata, and have worked over the caps on my Motorhome to remove oxidation. My local HF carried Meguirs buffing compounds (I bought two of the buffing compounds of medium and finish grit) and a synthetic polish. The stuff worked really well (no pictures sorry). I did upgrade the pads to Lake Country and they have been very good thus far. I need to clay block the Cherokee if I am going to polish it, but truth be know....I would mess it up again in a couple of months.:rolleyes:
Wow. A lot for me to learn. You guys really get into it. I see many steps in this process that are foreign to me, like compounding, synthetic polish, and clay blocking(huh - Cassius Clay?) Forgive me, no offense, but is it worth it for me? I have this Luxcare coating thing that I paid over $1k for when I ordered the Jeep. Guess I need to find out what the hell that's for. I'm wondering, can I just get away with doing a good paste wax job over the Luxcare thing and be good? Inquiring minds want to know! What is a good synthetic Wax? I gotta look at the video on Autogeek as advised. I have a short period to figure this out and get it done before the weather turns prohibitive, and I have a ski trip planned the end of this month, so I gotta put my box on. Hey, all your help is magnificent. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
722 Posts
Clay blocking is using a special detailing centric block of clay with a spray lube (really detail wax works fine). It removes impurities from the paint surface before you buff the paint. The clay blocking helps you avoid rubbing bug poop or tree pitch or even environmental elements into your paint while buffing (if you use a buffer to "level" the paint....there is another term that escapes me) you are essentially "melting" the clear coat to remove fine scratches and oxidation. So be careful. On new paint you likely will not need to use the coarser compounds. If they did your Luxcare thing (never heard of it) all of this should been in the prep. There is a lot out there, but I just use a quality wax unless I need to fix something or trying to create a show car finish which I quit doing years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
Clay blocking is using a special detailing centric block of clay with a spray lube (really detail wax works fine). It removes impurities from the paint surface before you buff the paint. The clay blocking helps you avoid rubbing bug poop or tree pitch or even environmental elements into your paint while buffing (if you use a buffer to "level" the paint....there is another term that escapes me) you are essentially "melting" the clear coat to remove fine scratches and oxidation. So be careful. On new paint you likely will not need to use the coarser compounds. If they did your Luxcare thing (never heard of it) all of this should been in the prep. There is a lot out there, but I just use a quality wax unless I need to fix something or trying to create a show car finish which I quit doing years ago.
The clay bar removes any fall out, over spray. Now when you correct the paint you are not melting it, you are removing the clear coat. Why it is also important if has ever been corrected before to test the thickness of the paint to make sure you have enough clear coat left before you burn through it and start to remove the actual color. Luxcare is a nano protection applied if purchased inside is acts like scotchguard and outside more between a wax and harder coating. I havent really messed with it or heard much about it. But if you paid for it id wait a year or 2 before doing any correction as it will remove the coating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The clay bar removes any fall out, over spray. Now when you correct the paint you are not melting it, you are removing the clear coat. Why it is also important if has ever been corrected before to test the thickness of the paint to make sure you have enough clear coat left before you burn through it and start to remove the actual color. Luxcare is a nano protection applied if purchased inside is acts like scotchguard and outside more between a wax and harder coating. I havent really messed with it or heard much about it. But if you paid for it id wait a year or 2 before doing any correction as it will remove the coating.
Thanks - I'm going to call the Luxcare people and ask them about doing what you said - my interpretation is go with a good synthetic(?) wax now as the Luxcare thing apears to me to be the sealant deal that I have read here. It is both interior and exterior appliance and coverage. You relieve my thoughts and make a lot of sense when you say let ig go for 2 years aswhy would this not be good enough a base prep and sealant that now I can jsut do the paste wax and be done with it. Thanks again ... any thoughts on a wax?
 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
Top