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I just got a kit in June That doesn't include a crossbar. I wonder if the frame would have cracked if it had the steel version off the bat. I hadn't heard about any problems other than the first ones were aluminum, but the steel ones use more bolts that bolster that section of frame rather than just bolting to it's face. Just bolting to the face of that sub frame might have been the biggest problem with the first design.
FWIW, the original factory pieces are aluminum and similar to the baseplate, but they're mainly just a support that has the factory retrieval hook in the center. I wonder if a good yank on one of those factory hooks would cause damage.

The main reason I chose Blue Ox over Roadmaster is because I didn't have to have an external crossbar, and because the Roadmaster installation required grinding of the vehicle support plates. I hope that choice doesn't bite me in the behind.
Provided the steering system is energized and wobble is avoided I think you鈥檒l be fine, I didn鈥檛 replace the base plates and I don鈥檛 have the cross brace either. Still, I believe anyone who is flat towing a KL model Cherokee should periodically climb under and inspect the welds on the subframe extensions.
 

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I have a 2014 Trailhawk that I purchased used, the previous owner also towed it behind his class A rv. After I bought it and before I ever towed it I learned of the 鈥淒eath Wobble鈥 issue. I took the car back to the jeep dealer and questioned them about the issue, they were clueless but did say there is a TSB that addresses the problem. I ended up paying 500 bucks to get the MOD installed.

Now on to what else I discovered, the previous owner must have known about and had episodes of death wobble. Looking at the CARFAX history the original owner had it in the shop for numerous types of work done on it regarding the front suspension. Over a few months problems arose, I had a RV shop install a braking system in theCherokee, he called me and told me that there was some damage in the front end. The base plate installed by the original owner attaches to a 鈥渇rame鈥 where all the cooling and front grill, literally everything in the front attach to, that frame is held in place by these two subframe extensions. The bolts that attach the base plates to the vehicle pass thru the frame that holds all the cooling parts and attaches via the subframe extensions. Those extensions were both broken at the welds.
It is well documented on the interwebs that the Cherokee death wobble will tear up the front end, and your experience proves it! I'll give you this - I searched the web and didn't see anything quite that bad. So, I guess you win!!

Ok... @AZJeeper did post about this some years ago. There is a revised TSB, known as 08-040-18 REV.A that clearly indicates that all 2014-2018 AD2 and TH (Cherokees) need the harness. That TSB originally included 2019 model year, but that was corrected later on ; not sure there is another TSB revision for this, but there was a Star case report indicating 2019s were cleared. They however never explained what happened with 2019+ models, how they 'fixed' the issue...

Thread : 2019 Active Drive II Flat Tow
Yeah, I should have put that link to the thread instead of just posting the pre-Rev-A version of the TSB. Still don't know for sure what was done on 2019+ models, but that thread has a theory or two.

My printed version of the 2019 TH/E Owner's Manual states the kit is needed, but subsequent electronic versions do not. Had a long but fruitless discussion with my dealer on that. He had no clue.

I've flat towed many thousands of miles now and had no issues - at least none involving the baseplate or death wobble. I did inspect my front end after my last trip and don't see any evidence of cracking. I have the Blue Ox baseplate P/N BX1140. I see the new version is P/N BX1143. The only difference I can see is they replaced some 10mm bolts with Grade 8.

I did look up the 2016 Blue Ox baseplate P/N BX1136. There is no crossbar with that either.
 
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Flat tow shmat tow. Just take whatever you want. That thing can probably tow whatever they put behind it.

Ok... @AZJeeper did post about this some years ago. There is a revised TSB, known as 08-040-18 REV.A that clearly indicates that all 2014-2018 AD2 and TH (Cherokees) need the harness. That TSB originally included 2019 model year, but that was corrected later on ; not sure there is another TSB revision for this, but there was a Star case report indicating 2019s were cleared. They however never explained what happened with 2019+ models, how they 'fixed' the issue...

Thread : 2019 Active Drive II Flat Tow
After reading through that thread it looks like I don't need to do anything. Several say they tow long distances without any battery drain on the later models.
OK, you guys have convinced me, I'm going this route when I hit the lottery and can afford this rig...LOL!!!馃槑
View attachment 220434 View attachment 220435 View attachment 220436
 

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It is well documented on the interwebs that the Cherokee death wobble will tear up the front end, and your experience proves it! I'll give you this - I searched the web and didn't see anything quite that bad. So, I guess you win!!


Yeah, I should have put that link to the thread instead of just posting the pre-Rev-A version of the TSB. Still don't know for sure what was done on 2019+ models, but that thread has a theory or two.

My printed version of the 2019 TH/E Owner's Manual states the kit is needed, but subsequent electronic versions do not. Had a long but fruitless discussion with my dealer on that. He had no clue.

I've flat towed many thousands of miles now and had no issues - at least none involving the baseplate or death wobble. I did inspect my front end after my last trip and don't see any evidence of cracking. I have the Blue Ox baseplate P/N BX1140. I see the new version is P/N BX1143. The only difference I can see is they replaced some 10mm bolts with Grade 8.

I did look up the 2016 Blue Ox baseplate P/N BX1136. There is no crossbar with that either.
Is your kit the steel version or the original aluminum parts? The steel ones I have also have an angle bracket that also seems to secure to the sub frame with a bolt from the bottom. It didn't look like the aluminum version had that to me.
I'm pretty sure they fixed the problem with the steel parts. They're pretty beefy.
Maybe frank can post a pic of that whole piece.
 

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Is your kit the steel version or the original aluminum parts? The steel ones I have also have an angle bracket that also seems to secure to the sub frame with a bolt from the bottom. It didn't look like the aluminum version had that to me.
I'm pretty sure they fixed the problem with the steel parts. They're pretty beefy.
Maybe frank can post a pic of that whole piece.
Mine are steel.

I should note I initially just looked at the difference between BX1140 and BX1143 parts list. I had it backward. The new kit (BX1143) downgraded a couple of bolts to Grade 5! So I decided to take a closer look at the parts diagrams and installation instructions. There are many other changes.

The safety hook attachment is now welded on instead of being bolted on. The new one has a 5" bolt that comes in from the backside where the original recovery hook was bolted. I'm guessing that adds significant strength. This change necessitated the receivers to be moved inboard and up a bit. My setup has two welded gusset braces for the receiver, the new one has just one. Mine has 5 bolts in the face of the plate and two bumper bolts. The new one has 3 bolts in the face and one bumper bolt. The final big change is since the receivers are moved, there is no fascia trimming required. They now fit cleanly in the original tow hook openings. Mine had to be trimmed to fit.

I should note the 2014-2018 version (BX1136) is very similar to mine, including the need to trim the facia. The biggest difference I can see is the facia itself is quite different and is probably more constraining on how the baseplate can be mounted.

Looking at the pictures it would appear that all P/Ns are steel.

I'm guessing the original 2019+ baseplate was just a relatively minor update to the 2014-2018 one. Then someone at Blue Ox had that "ah-ha!" moment and came up with the new design.
 

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Some 2018 models do not need the flat tow wiring kit. When we bought ours I asked the dealer to get and install the kit, but when they ran the part numbers it wasn't applicable for the VIN on our 2018. This was in Eugene, OR and they had installed quite a few of those wiring harneses so they knew what to look for. We've since flat towed 15-20K miles with no occurrences of the death wobble.
 

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Some 2018 models do not need the flat tow wiring kit. When we bought ours I asked the dealer to get and install the kit, but when they ran the part numbers it wasn't applicable for the VIN on our 2018. This was in Eugene, OR and they had installed quite a few of those wiring harneses so they knew what to look for. We've since flat towed 15-20K miles with no occurrences of the death wobble.
Well that dealership knew something most don't : the cutoff build date. I was under the distinct impression that all 1st gen KLs needed the kit (2014-18).
Hopefully yours will remain wobble-free for as long as you flat tow it.
 

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Well that dealership knew something most don't : the cutoff build date. I was under the distinct impression that all 1st gen KLs needed the kit (2014-18).
Hopefully yours will remain wobble-free for as long as you flat tow it.
Well, they didn't know the cutoff build date, but their cross reference system indicated the flat tow wiring harness was not applicable to that vehicle. I asked if there was any indication of build date cutoff and they said they couldn't tell. I'm not sure if all Cherokees were built in the same factory in 2018?

We bought the Cherokee used, and the previous owners also flat towed it. The dealer said they thought those people dragged it to Alaska and back, and had apparently traded it for a new flat towable Jeep. It still had the Roadmaster baseplates installed, and the motorhome we had bought came with a Roadmaster tow bar, so I only had to buy the removable base plate ends. Previous owners had also installed a taillight wiring harness. I also installed a braking system, not sure if previous owners used one, or if they used a removable system.
 

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I have a 2016 Cherokee Trailhawk that has the neutral button for the transmission, we are full time RV鈥檈rs and have flat towed this Jeep without issue for 5 months.
a fellow RVer asked what I did to charge the battery while I have the ignition on for the steering.. he brought up the wobbling issue..
I have not seen this in my Jeep but want to verify that I don鈥檛 need to do anything different than what I have purchased.
I self installed the wiring/kit for my brakes and lights. The brake kit came with diodes to 鈥渢rickle charge鈥 the battery.
Do I need to leave the ignition on for steering module? Or is this a different problem on another vehicle?
I installed the 鈥楩lat Tow Harness鈥 myself on my 2015 TH. I was able to pick it up at the local Jeep dealer, but I had to supply the part number. They had ZERO clue about this harness, had never heard of it and had to add the part number to their system. But they did try and charge me $600 to install it ( the harness was $142).
The harness kit is really simple to install with the detailed instructions鈥 took me almost 1 hour and 20 minutes of that was making sure I was actually done!
The gist of the kit is when using it, pop a 10amp fuse in the added fuse holder under the hood, flip a switch in the console and you are done. The fuse powers up a relay so it cannot stay installed permanently.
I replaced the fuse holder with a 10amp circuit breaker I pulled from some aircraft at some point.
As far as charging while on the road, I did this myself. My setup is easy and basic. A 20 amp fuse at my coach battery, a 20 amp breaker (also used aviation part) that matches the previously mentioned 10 amp breaker. I went with the breakers because as I mentioned you only install the fuse while using it, so the breakers I can push in to close the circuit or pull them out to open the circuit and kill power.
I should add I spent a whopping $3 on four 7amp diodes I paralleled together for the charge lead to not drain my Jeep battery while on a trip and I am parked.
 

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Some 2018 models do not need the flat tow wiring kit. When we bought ours I asked the dealer to get and install the kit, but when they ran the part numbers it wasn't applicable for the VIN on our 2018. This was in Eugene, OR and they had installed quite a few of those wiring harneses so they knew what to look for. We've since flat towed 15-20K miles with no occurrences of the death wobble.
The TSB 08-040-18 REV. B Jeep Technical Service Bulletin states:

This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with 4x4 (Sales Code 5I4) and with Jeep Active Drive II (Sales Code DK4).

That implies that all 2018 models through May 2018 (date of TSB) are covered - unless, of course, your vehicle doesn't have those sales codes. However, looking up P/Ns for the rack-and-pinion steering, the same number applies to 2017 and 2018. 2019+ has a different P/N.

I don't know when they stopped building 2018 models for sure. My 2019 was built in May 2018.

Your's would be the first 2018 that I've seen that doesn't need the kit. I'm thinking your dealer may have made an error, but I could be mistaken. After all, everyone knows the dealers are seldom wrong. ;)

It also should be noted that there are several RV forums that have stories about people flat-towing their 2014-2018 without issue - until the day they had an issue!

The way to be sure is look up the sales codes for your vehicle. My build sheet doesn't have the sales codes. I'm not exactly sure how to get them - I think it's through your dealer. Maybe someone can chime in on how to get sales codes by VIN?
 

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It's possible they were mistaken and we just haven't had any problems yet. However, when I look on moparpart.com using my VIN, there are two different part numbers for "Rack and Pinion Gear" listed; both cost around $2750 (wow!).

68369260AA
68369262AA

So it looks like there may have been a revision at some point for 2018 models, at least. Searching by year for 2017 Cherokee Overland shows those two part numbers plus an additional part # 5154521AJ at $1390, possibly for AD1 models?

Looking up by year for 2019, there is one "Rack and Pinion Gear" listed for $597:

68284077AJ

I don't know if those are actually the same part. Both say they are for "part #1" on the reference diagram, and the reference diagrams are pretty similar. If the steering gear had a reputation for failure I'd have to consider trading this one in for a 2019+!

edit: it's interesting that if you look up the part numbers for the 2018, neither of those list the other in their "Replaces" list, and both are applicable for "L Plus 4x4. With Tech Connect Package 4x4. With Tech Connect Package FWD".
 

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Internally, manufacturers can track by vin#, they will sometimes run parts until they run out, then start with the new version...
 
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