trailer brake controller
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Great solution.
Where and how did you get the spare door material?
I may actually have to follow your lead and just put one on so its there.
Any problem knocking your knee into it.
Is there enough space to recess that unit closer so its flush. I know that area is tight the last I remember.
Its a Nice job.
Where and how did you get the spare door material?
I may actually have to follow your lead and just put one on so its there.
Any problem knocking your knee into it.
Is there enough space to recess that unit closer so its flush. I know that area is tight the last I remember.
Its a Nice job.
It's the plastic material up fitters use on the rear doors of Chargers and Ford Suv when you lets say, add bars to the windows and remove the factory door panel . They were going to trash some so I grabbed a few for projects. they are about 24x 28"
PM me you address and I'll cut a 8 x8 " piece and ship it to you. I'll let you trace out the bin and cut it. I used a jig saw and it worked ok. finished with a coarse pad on a air tool. The controlled is very much out of the way. I'm 5 8" and never come close to it. The way it is the pivot point of the manual switch is just inside. Leaves plenty of room to activate it. I'm sure you could get it back another 3/8" but it fine for me. There is plenty of room behind it
A little late but your Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is just for your Jeep. So the Jeep, everything in it and if towing the weight of the tongue. Your towing rating, assuming you have a factory installed towing package and a V6 is 4,500. Its 2 different numbers. Your trailer will also have a GVWR that is the weight of the trailer plus whats ever is in it. That can't exceed 4,500 but most say you shouldn't go past 75% of it.
Oh and I'm back here since we are looking at a KZ Bunkhouse and will need a controller. I remember this thread was started before there were dedicated harnesses and you had to mod a Grand cherokee. :smile:
Going to have to go back and look through all the "hacks" to get it stuck under the dashboard. thinking maybe install some sort of bracket in that odd cubby and you would open it up and plug in and then slide in the controller. Thinking though that the bin needs to be more secure in the open position. Seems like the controller would bounce a bit.
Ok after stalking this thread for over 3 years we just bought a KZ TT with brakes.
A lot of the older posts have pics that no longer exist and a PDF thats dead. Besides the post above any new interesting ways to install a controller?
Probably getting the Tekonsha Primus IQ since it appears to be the same inside as the P3 and P2 without the multi trailer and LCD features of the P3 and the Electric over Hydraulic feature of the P2.
I've been checking out the bin on the left side and while I think its possible to install it in a way that I can close the drawer when the trailer isn't hooked up I think thats puts it too far out of reach. Thinking installing the bracket in a way that either it will stick out a bit or maybe fashioning something to attach the controllers bracket to to hold it up further on the dash.
A lot of the older posts have pics that no longer exist and a PDF thats dead. Besides the post above any new interesting ways to install a controller?
Probably getting the Tekonsha Primus IQ since it appears to be the same inside as the P3 and P2 without the multi trailer and LCD features of the P3 and the Electric over Hydraulic feature of the P2.
I've been checking out the bin on the left side and while I think its possible to install it in a way that I can close the drawer when the trailer isn't hooked up I think thats puts it too far out of reach. Thinking installing the bracket in a way that either it will stick out a bit or maybe fashioning something to attach the controllers bracket to to hold it up further on the dash.
Ok adding this for the next guy panicking for 30 seconds when they can't find the plug. 
The picture posted in the first couple of pages is dead so I'll describe it. Once you remove the screw in the kick panel, the one with the little "well" lights, you can pry it forward and away from the fire wall. The plug is right behind the screw hole clipped to the floor.
Last I saw the pic that was posted I thought it was wrapped up in the wire bundle so I couldn't find it.
The picture posted in the first couple of pages is dead so I'll describe it. Once you remove the screw in the kick panel, the one with the little "well" lights, you can pry it forward and away from the fire wall. The plug is right behind the screw hole clipped to the floor.
Last I saw the pic that was posted I thought it was wrapped up in the wire bundle so I couldn't find it.
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And to add that is only for US models, export models do not get the connector... Had to wire it up manuallyOk adding this for the next guy panicking for 30 seconds when they can't find the plug.
The picture posted in the first couple of pages is dead so I'll describe it. Once you remove the screw in the kick panel, the one with the lights, you can pry it forward and away from the fire wall. The plug is right behind the screw hole clipped to the floor.
Last I saw the pic that was posted I thought it was wrapped up in the wire bundle so I couldn't find it.
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Hey Folks, so I need some help with this. I have a Tekonsha TK90160 I used in my previous vehicle, a Land Rover LR3. I spoke to E-trailer and ordered the 3014-p harness. Connected it all and the controls don't seem to work properly. If I unplug the harness at the controller and replug, I can see all the settings but within 5 seconds it goes to two flashing " -- -- " on the display and doesn't seem to do anything. With the Land Rover, when no trailer was plugged in, the lights on the controller went out when the ignition was shut off, now on the Jeep, they stay on. 2015 Cherokee trailhawk w/towing pkg. Thanks!
On my Tekonsha Primus IQ, same one, It works just like you posted.
I first get "nc" "not connected" warning and then ". .". But after the key is off for some time it goes to sleep or battery saver mode.
From e trailer
Integrated safeguards protect your vehicle and trailer
* Minimizes drain on car battery when not in use
and according to the manual it sleeps after 15 min after no activity or moment.
The controller on the Land Rover must have been connected to the ignition, on the Jeep its connected directly to the battery.
I first get "nc" "not connected" warning and then ". .". But after the key is off for some time it goes to sleep or battery saver mode.
From e trailer
Integrated safeguards protect your vehicle and trailer
* Minimizes drain on car battery when not in use
and according to the manual it sleeps after 15 min after no activity or moment.
The controller on the Land Rover must have been connected to the ignition, on the Jeep its connected directly to the battery.
Also re read the manual trouble shooting chart. _ _ or - - (but the top segments) may mean the controller is pointed too far up or down.
" . ." (2 periods) are normal when a trailer isn't connected.
http://www.hitchpro.com/Application/support/instructions/N39528.pdf
Normal operation. Its off when I get into my Jeep and does this when I start it up. When I leave it eventually turns off. The more I think about it hooking up a brake controller to the ignition switch sounds like a bad idea if for some reason you turn the key off you lose trailer brakes.
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Yes, I found a newer instruction sheet on-line yesterday and discovered I likely have the unit mounted pointing too far up. I'm going to move it and try again. As it worked when I had it out of the holder, at a less severe angle, I think that should fix things right up.
Whats your plan for mounting it. If i get time I can post the bracket I made that fits into that odd bin thing at your knee.
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I mounted mine on top of my CB
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That’s where I’ll,likely put it. Maybe Velcro so I can remove it when not in use.
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Tell me more! how's it been working? I like this idea, since my sister and I went in on a trailer together, but she can take her own vehicle and not have to borrow mine with the controller. lol nor do we have to buy 2 controllers.
is it this one? [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90250-Prodigy-Electronic-Control/dp/B001P0ZA86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528086566&sr=8-1&keywords=tekonsha+rf+brake+controller&dpID=41LJeJDaHoL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch[/ame]
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1,035 Posts
read through 22 pages , not 1 single picture of where the wire location is ..... great work .
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Where exactly under the dash ? I have looked all over the place and I have the factory tow package ....I got a good look and picture of the plug under the dash.
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It matches the one on the etrailer web site BUT it is the wrong gender !
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tow-Ready/22294.html
I suppose we could ask why in the world would they do that... but the more important question is... where can we find the right plug of the right gender ? ?
I just went out and took a picture of the factory brake controller plug on my 2016 Latitude with factory tow package. The connector is up in there behind the panel with the lights (to left of brake pedal)
Here is a picture of it. I did not remove the panel, just angles my phone enough to get a picture.
![Headlamp Light Automotive lighting Auto part Wire]()
Here is a picture of it. I did not remove the panel, just angles my phone enough to get a picture.
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