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You cannot say enough about replacing the speakers and I agree with everyone here that suggests as such.

The beauty is, you can upgrade all of the speakers - and not spend a bundle - and dramatically improve the overall sound quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Got the new Alpine R-S69.2 in, fit like a glove. Hardest thing was figuring out the last part of the door cards, thought it was pop the sides and bottom (with a heavy duty plastic panel popper), then lift off (upwards), nope, its give a firm jerk horizontally away from the door, same catch pins as the other sides. 1st door 1/2 hour, was down to maybe 5 mins by the last one...
What a difference in sound quality already (no amp, yet)! Can't wait to get to the next stage.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Still not onto the major surgery stage yet, but I replaced the 6 spkr factory dash speakers (3.5s) with 2 from the 9 spkr Alpine system, huge improvement! I get great full range from the new 6x9s, and much fuller sound from the dash speakers. The 6 spkr system has x-over filters on them, while the much bigger magnets on the 9 spkr (3.5s) sound remarkable over the system. I actually had to drop the highs on the equalizer down a bit...
I'm already a happy camper! ANC AMP, subwoofer and the remaining 3 3.5s (which I have, as well as the new wiring) to go...
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Now that I had access to the 6 spkr speakers that I pulled out of the Jeep, thought I'd measure the resistance.
The 6x9s measured @ 4.3 Ω, using a generalized rule of thumb (+10%), a surprising ~4.7 Ω impedance.
But at least this assures me that I won't be pushing the in radio amp too much with the new Alpine Speakers.
The 3.5s measured @ 8.6 Ω, again a surprising ~9.5 Ω impedance (stamped 8 Ω)
These readings lend even more credence to how poor the factory 6 spkr speakers are,

The Jeep 9 spkr 3.5s measured @ 2 Ω even, so ~2.2 Ω impedance, a bit closer to expected values.
I cancelled the 6x9 Jeep Alpines, so I can't measure those.

So, with a calculated impedance load of 1.33 Ω on the fronts in parallel with the dash,
I'm going to keep the dash speakers disconnected until I can get matching 4 Ω impedance all around.
(I could safely put the 8 Ω dash speakers in, but they really muddied up the sound)
At least I'll have a balanced load that won't risk frying the radio...
 
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Just a thought, but keep in mind, the speakers are connected to the amplifier and it would assume the impedance loads, right?

I have six 4 ohm speakers connected directly to the 45W/channel amplifier and the front door speakers connected in parallel with the dash speakers and effectively shows 2 ohms to the amp as in 4 ohms / 2 speakers = 2 ohms net value. The system is able to accommodate the lesser impedance load and sound very good. I wouldn't get too hung up on the loads, especially if the head unit is only 'seeing' the amplifier load. Does that make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
No AMP yet, that's why I don't want to drop below the impedance that came from the factory (the 1.33 Ω [on a 4 Ω / 2 Ω combo]), esp. on a 8.4 4C Nav head.
Very few amps are stable at less than 2 Ω, so I want to keep the dash speakers equal or greater than the 4 Ω Alpines.
So, ordering Kicker 46CSC354 as they sound most acoustically comparable the the Alpine R-S69.2 in the doors (and a big improvement over the previous 43DSC3504.)
They also should be a good match if I can get the factory Alpine ANC amp to work.
I'm agreeing with you on the 4 + 4 = 2... ;)
 

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No AMP yet, that's why I don't want to drop below the impedance that came from the factory (the 1.33 Ω [on a 4 Ω / 2 Ω combo]), esp. on a 8.4 4C Nav head.
Very few amps are stable at less than 2 Ω, so I want to keep the dash speakers equal or greater than the 4 Ω Alpines.
So, ordering Kicker 46CSC354 as they sound most acoustically comparable the the Alpine R-S69.2 in the doors (and a big improvement over the previous 43DSC3504.)
They also should be a good match if I can get the factory Alpine ANC amp to work.
I'm agreeing with you on the 4 + 4 = 2... ;)
OK, understand completely and good luck.

I had six 4 ohm speakers connected directly to the head unit for over a year before I added the 4-channel amplifier, so even though I asked a lot - current wise - the head unit didn't complain (to my knowledge). And I don't listen to music 'quietly'.

Wait what??? LOL!!!😎
It's different with impedance in parallel, than in series, but more importantly impedance equals voltage divided by current (less impedance = more current).
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Atlcade69 how these work out? Fitment on front doors were no issue?
Went in flawlessly! No contact to the door's speaker basket, and none to the door panel.
IMO, they sound the best leaving out the dash speakers altogether, as their high frequency response is amazing. (this after trying the Kickers in the front.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Well, I got the factory sub and quarter panel trim installed as well as the D pillar speakers installed today.

So far, through all of this, the biggest pita was pulling the glove box, the rear quarter trim was a cakewalk compared to that.

As for the wiring, I had to lengthen the pass cargo lamp wiring to reach its new location and will need to sever the parallel connection between the front door and the IP speakers. Other than that I will only need to move some pins (too bad the ANC and Amp don't share the same output plugs, (would have been much simpler), the wiring/plug from the radio to them is the same. And the 3 new speakers and sub wiring is non-existent, so it is new wire runs.

For now, I'm going to leave the sub as the 2ohm factory, with all the other speakers @ 4ohm, should be interesting to hear how the mix sounds.

With the wiring ran up to the rear pass door. Sunday (after the storm front passes thru) I'm going to connect the replace the ANC module with the factory Alpine amp and tie everything together. I have the SGM bypass, the Grey and Blue OBD adapters, AlfaOBD and my OBDLink MX ready for the big power up. Hopefully I'll be reporting back success... Wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Merging from some other threads...
Good to hear back from you! Between the 2 of us we should get this mule tamed...
I hope this helps sales code is RC3, I doing something similar but I do not have all the kinks worked out yet
@AtlCade69
I almost forgot I seen something in the Alfaobd to disable ANC
Ah, thanks for that. Hopefully I will be able to keep the ANC on mine. But, still good to know, might be better than all those people doing special ANC Bypass stuff. This will be my 1st attempt using AlfaOBD (but I used ForScan and Focccus to do lots of things on my Ford)
 

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How did this turn out? I have a LC2i and subwoofer and amp. I want to upgrade the six speakers in my vehicle with plug and play speakers.

Are any of you familiar with the LC2i? Or the bass roll of frequencies?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Finally going to tackle the Alpine factory amp install this weekend. I had been debating on the best way to (reversibly) change the ANC C3 plug to the Amp's C1 and C3 plugs.
Just got a pack of Posi-Taps and since the Amp I got had pigtails for all 3 plugs, I can simply tap the 10 common leads the 2 share (sensor, FR, FL, RR, and RL), and just leave the ANC C3 plug fully wired but not connected. For the Dash right and left I am running new leads from the amp to them (as well as the new Center, D pillars and Sub 1&2). I already have all the new speakers installed and wired up to the factory amp location...

FYI, Posi-Tap has a new more compact version of their taps (about the same size as an old school crimp butt splice)
 
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Wow, good luck on that project and let us no how it worked out.
 
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