2014+ Jeep Cherokee Forums banner

T'EYES CC3 2K Android Head Unit Review

75K views 316 replies 38 participants last post by  Gary Kline  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

If you saw my post a couple weeks ago you know my uConnect 8.4 VP4 NA from my 2014 TH bricked during a software update. Time to replace it. As posted many times on this board there’s basically four options:

Option 1: I could replace my uConnect 8.4 VP4 NA with an identical used unit (probably from eBay) and all I would need is to buy the anti-theft code so the replacement uConnect registers itself to the VIN of my car. This would have cost me about $300 for a used uConnect 8.4 VP4 NA and $10 for a code. This would have gotten me back to where I was before.

Option 2: I could upgrade to one of the newer uConnect system with Car Play/Android Auto (2019+?) but as noted in many posts, you can’t just swap-up as in Option #1. Apparently there’s a company that will do it but it costs over $2k. That’s way too expensive for basically, the same unit just a little better.

Option 3: I could get an iDatalink-compatible radio and iDatalink Maestro box which would allow me to keep all the car’s features AND get Android Auto/Car Play. However, it seems like all the iDatalink-compatible radios are name brand (e.g. Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood etc. ) and the modest-priced ones would be only 7 or 8 inch screens, smaller than what I have now. To go to a 9 or 10 inch screen PLUS the Maestro hardware, harness etc. puts me between $1200-1500. Still too much.

Option 4: Go with an aftermarket Android unit with CANBUS decoder to keep most of my car functions. The unit every seems to have the most success with is the T’EYES CC3. So for about $350 I could get a 10.2 inch screen, Android Auto/Car Play and most of my car’s features would still work.

So in the end I decided on Option 4. Actually, there’s an upgraded version that just came out with an optional 2K Quad HD screen so I got that version in the 64Gb version.

So I’m posting this review to talk about the PROS and CONS I’ve found since replacing my uConnect with the T’EYES CC3 2K as well as fill in the gaps based on some of the videos out there that mention “All the features except the heated steering work” but in the videos, they never actually show it or any of the screens for the Cherokee-specific features. I hope this helps for anyone looking at upgrading to the CC3.

PROs/ CONs:
-----------------------------------------------------------
CON: It’s pretty well documented you will lose your heated steering wheel so if you MUST have a heated wheel, the CC3 is not for you. You don’t (thankfully) lose your heated seats which to me, is more important. As some have posted, if your Cherokee is equipped with the Remote Start package where your heated seats come on when remote starting and it’s <40 degrees outside you can lose that. Some have reported the remote start heated seat feature works after upgrading and others report it doesn’t work. My heated seats stopped working in the remote start mode but do fully work as normal in manual mode including at the two levels, High and Low.

CON: As I mentioned above, there are videos out there that claim “all the features just work” however it wasn't clear if the posters actually checked “all features”. I found a better statement is "most features work". Perhaps the largest missing feature outside the heated steering wheel is the “Retract Parking Brake for Service” option which is required to change your rear brake pads, something every Cherokee owner will need to do at some point. There’s a “Brake” menu under Car Settings but there are no options under it. Without it, you have no way to retract the parking brake to do a rear brake pad/rotor change. If you have AlfaOBD I have found a way around it. I was able to manually enter/exit Maintenance Mode from the EPB module and put the car into Maintenance Mode however if you don’t have AlfaOBD you would need to either (a) have a shop/dealer with OBD II access to the extended FCA functions do your brake job or (b) temporarily put your old radio back to do it. Again, for me I have the AlfaOBD so it’s not an issue but something to be aware of if/when you replace your rear pads.

CON: Learning curve!
  • It takes some time to really understand everything even just how to navigate the interface. There’s literally hundreds of settings and the only instructions are videos on the T’EYES website. I’ve spent about 4-5 hours with it so far and only now starting to get things down comfortably.
  • The unit is from China and apparently the primary customers are in Russia because out of the box, it’s setup for Cyrillic. It took 10 minutes just to figure out how to switch it to English! Some deep menus with seldom/never used settings are still in their original Russian. It’s a little rough around the edges but luckily, everything you need, will use or is car/user-facing is in the language you choose (for me, English)
  • Non-standard icons. Half of the initial learning curve is trying to figure out what some of the unique icons on the CC3 interface do. For example, the Bluetooth icon/symbol is pretty much universal today. Not so on the CC3 though. It’s some never-seen-before icon. It makes it frustrating because you’re looking all over for just how to pair the Bluetooth only to find it’s under an icon you never would have expected it to be. A little frustrating.

CON: Initial sound quality. As mentioned in almost every posting or video, out of the box the unit sounds like CRAP. And that’s no exaggeration. In all honesty, I actually liked the sound of my Cherokee’s uConnect. It was loud and full ranged. To me, the Cherokee speakers are the weak point and many of us have changed those thanks to the abundance of good posts from forum members on the different speaker upgrade options available. The CC3 sound was so bad at first I seriously thought I had made a mistake and should pull the unit. Luckily I took a deep breath and started to adjust the equalizer (EQ) settings as the CC3 videos point out. Once you do it’s a HUGE difference; night and day. There are also a lot more options for Surround Sound, Subwoofer, High-Pass/Low-Pass filtering, Sound Field. Also, the T’EYES wiring harness has RCA outs for those of us who don’t have the 9-speaker (“Alpine”) system and want to add an amplifier to our 6-speaker base system. It’s just amazing how terrible the CC3 sounds out of the box until you EQ it and then it becomes great. It becomes a completely different unit after that.

-----------------------------------------------------------

PRO: Awesome 10.2” glass screen. The 2K model has a gorgeous 2000x1200 resolution and the included custom bezel perfectly matches the Cherokee interior. They really did a great job at making it look like it was a factory option, you would never know it’s not OEM. It’s like having a Tesla-style screen built right into the center of your dashboard. Definite “wow” factor when someone gets into your car.

PRO: Another reason I got the 2K model was that they also upgraded the microphone. Many people reported in the videos/reviews out there that with the original CC3 model when making calls, people had difficulty hearing them with the internal microphone and that it was quiet or wasn’t clear. The CC3 does support adding an external microphone however they advertise they fixed the internal microphone issue in the 2K model. Everyone I’ve called has said it sounded nice and clear and no issue with volume.

PRO: Google Maps!!! (or Waze or whatever navigation app you prefer). The uConnect navigation was probably good when it came out back in 2014 but not today. The low resolution screen means you could never see more than a few streets around your current location, the scrolling was jerky and once they shut down 3G a couple years ago, unless you had one of the newer 4G units, you were screwed. The CC3 2K on the other hand fully supports any of the dozens of navigation/gps apps in high res. and the scrolling/updating is 100% smooth and lightning fast due to the 8-core processor. Night and day difference when compared to the uConnect.

PRO: Sound quality! Now, you may be saying, "Wait???, this was on the list of "CONs??" Well that is BEFORE using the equalizer. Once you EQ the sound to your liking, the CC3 is a whole different head unit and it sounds awesome. It's plenty loud and the 28-band EQ allows you to get the sound just the way you like it. You like lots of bass?? No problem, the T'EYES CC3 has you covered? You like midrange or crystal clear highs? No problem, the EQ has you covered there as well.

PRO: With the exception of the heated steering wheel and remote-auto heated seats/wheel option, all the HVAC controls work. This is probably the most critical function as the Cherokee lacks physical buttons for many of the HVAC controls. So bottom line, the only thing HVAC it appears you lose are the heated steering (any mode – manual or remote start) and heated seats in the remote start mode. Everything else, temperature, blower, all the vent louvers, recirculate/pass through, front and rear defogger/defroster, etc. all work. While I don’t have the vented seat option in my TH, the option is there on the CC3’s screen and I don’t have any reason to believe it wouldn’t work since they are controlled by the Comfort Seat Module where the seat heat elements are plugged into. It was noted in some of the posts, the temperature is displayed in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit. This is true. The actual temperature is correct, it’s just the units of display (‘C’ instead of ‘F’) is wrong.

PRO: Fully supports adding a 4G SIM card (there are two discrete SIM card slots) for mobile data if you’re inclined to buy one and not use your phone as a hotspot. Also, it supports both 2.4 and 5 Ghz WiFi. Note, you will see references to “5G” in the instructions and on the connectors. This is NOT 5G wireless but 5Ghz WiFi. It’s just bad labeling.

PRO: Android Auto & Car Play! I’m an Android user. My kids all have iPhones. Everyone’s happy.

PRO: Support for the OEM external amp for 9 speaker “Alpine” sound systems. The interface includes an “AMP” on/off button and CANBUS settings if you have the uConnect external amp (the one behind the glove box).

PRO: Plenty of memory to store music, videos etc. so I don’t need to stream from my BT-connected phone. Also, I can load up a USB flash drive and use that for more movies for road trips if I wanted. The CC3 comes with 3 additional USB connectors so you can run them into the glove compartment or by the kick panels so they’re not dangling out in the open if you want while still leaving the Media Hub and USB in the center armrest available. The additional USB’s also can charge phones so you could charge up to 5 devices simultaneously (the media hub, the center console and the three CC3 USB connectors).

PRO: Customizing. This really is just more a feature of the Android o/s than the CC3 itself but you can add a background logo, customize the screen look and feel, etc.

PRO: Plug and Play. The CC3 comes with a Cherokee-compatible wiring harness. The only thing extra to purchase (and I’d recommend it) is a $8 cable on Amazon to convert your factory GPS cable over to the screw-type found on the back of the unit. They do include a GPS receiver and you could snake the wire through your dash, up the pillar and to the windshield but to me, to save $8 bucks it’s not worth it. Just get the cable adapter and you can use your existing GPS receiver at the top of your windshield. (GPS adapter for Cherokee/T’EYES CC3: Amazon.com )

PRO: The backup camera, fully works, but there is a downside. With the high-resolution screen the camera image is poor. You’ll be able to see clearly enough for its purpose but I may this summer run a new rear backup camera so I get a nice, wide clear view but that’s just me. I’m an upgrade junkie :cool:

PRO: Lastly, the unit is advertised as years 2015-2018. I’m not sure about 2019+ but I can say it fully works in my 2014. Perhaps they didn’t have a way to test it in a 2014 but it works fine on a 2014 KL.



Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Comes with:
  1. CC3 Head unit (in box)
  2. OEM-quality bezel (you can choose silver or gold). Matches my Cherokee perfectly. looks factory installed.
  3. Cherokee-compatible plus & play wiring harness – no cutting or splicing.
  4. GPS antenna. Suggest getting the adapter on Amazon to use the Cherokee’s GPS antenna if you had Sirius/NAV in your build already.
  5. 4G antenna (if you use a SIM card for mobile internet)
  6. 5Ghz-band Wifi antenna (note, this is mislabeled as “5G”. It is not 5G mobile internet.)
  7. AM/FM amplified antenna. Connect blue wire to “Ant” blue wire on wiring harness (#3)
  8. USB connector. Keeps the USB in your Media Hub!
  9. CANBUS box allows radio to work with CANBUS controls like HVAC and Comfort Seat module.
  10. Cable for external mic, 2nd SIM card and other things (I didn’t use)
  11. Cable for line-level amp, subwoofer etc. (I didn’t use)
  12. Cable to connect your Cherokee built-in rear camera. Connect this to yellow “camera” cable on wiring harness (#3)
  13. Optional external USB connector (1 end)
  14. Optional external USB connector (2 ends) You can route this to your glove box if you want for extra charging outlets etc.

Image


Image


10 Image maximum : CONTINUED BELOW
 

Attachments

#137 ·
Change the DPI on the T'EYES CC3

Here's a new trick for old eyes like mine. On the T'EYES you can actually adjust the dpi of the screen to make everything larger/smaller similar to how on MS Windows you can adjust your screen resolution for larger or smaller monitors.

Follow the steps below. Depending on your model of CC3 (2k screen or non-2k screen), set the DPI to your preference. Good numbers are below.

960 dpi - This is the default on the CC3 2K screen. Fits a lot on the screen but for older eyes, some fonts and images may be too small.
-------------------------------------------------------
685 dpi - This is the default on the CC3 regular screen. This is a great option if you want larger fonts and images on a 2K screen model.
-------------------------------------------------------
480 dpi - This is a great option if you want larger fonts and images on a non-2K model. On a 2K screen, it's very large (maybe someday when the eyes are really bad) 😂


Image


Image


Image
 
#42 ·
Image


well, it all came in today. Have to say I was impressed with how it was packaged and presented. Not just a cheap tablet slapped in a holder. Looks like it was well thought out. Thought about installing it tonight, but want to do a bit of researching the parts, and how it all works together. Pretty stoked about it though!
 
#232 ·
Welp, no luck. The unit’s USBs ports aren’t powered enough to support such a heavy data stream. Confirmed with TEYES support. I could potentially screen mirror but that’s no fun and just adds another signal being broadcast to interfere with the connection to the drone.

Though speaking of signal, not all is lost. The drone operates off of the same 5Ghz signal as the unit’s WiFi antenna and I am successfully able to patch the controller’s antenna into it. Not a mind blowing gain mind you, but at least eliminates the inherent signal loss from flying inside the car with the antenna mounted to the roof.

Pretty cool!
 
#305 ·
I had to go look up metric to standard, I usually cruise control around 90mph. I usually average 18-20mpg in Germany. Once I get out of Germany, lower speed limits 78mph, I can average about 23-24mpg.
 
#52 ·
One other thing.... (though this has nothing to do with your settings).

Our Cherokee's have a powered FM/AM antenna. You need to connect the blue wire on cable #7 below that says "ANT" with the blue wire on #10 (or it might be #3). Either way it will be labeled "ANT" as well. This is to your radio supplies power to the FM/AM antenna on the roof.


Image
 
#68 ·
I'm thinking of doing that this summer. Yes, with the new CC3 with it's sharp screen, the original Cherokee camera (probably 640x480 resolution) looks very primitive. Time to upgrade to a true AHD 1080p :cool: As for wiring, no one knows yet I think since no ones' mentioned replacing theirs.

The question is whether you could use the original wiring behind the current camera for the replacement. Below is the schematic for the camera on the lift gate. The connectors 4, 5 & 6 are for the camera feed signal and look pretty straight forward. Connectors 1 & 3 appear to be ground and power respectively. I'm guessing connection #2 is the 'trigger' line (for when the car is put in reverse). Since the CC3 has a CANBUS box built in, my guess is that the trigger is not needed (since CANBUS tells the CC3 when you put the car in reverse and to switch to the backup camera. It's not relying on a voltage signal, say, from the reverse lights). So it might be possible to use the existing wiring - someone would just have to try. Of course, the other thing is how to mount the camera (which I assume wouldn't be able to go in the original hole unless someone fashions a way to do it else it would probably need to be mounted on the lift gate above the license plate.

Again, this will be my summer project. I plan to try it. Experimentation time!!


Image
 
#165 ·
Speaker upgrade does wonders as well. We don't have the greatest speakers in our Cherokees to begin with. I have the Alpine Premium 9 Speaker system, and even those were 💩. I replaced the door speakers with REAL Alpine R Series, and some Pioneer speakers in the dash and rear pillars. Difference of night and day...😎
 
#263 ·
So been reading this forum for a bit now. I bit the bullet and my new CC3 2K is coming in the mail now! I was reading about a summer project for the backup camera, I'm not sure how I'll feel about the factory one until I install my unit. Although I'm curious to know if someone has already swapped out the factory camera for an AHD one and if they used the factory wiring.
So been reading this forum for a bit now. I bit the bullet and my new CC3 2K is coming in the mail now! I was reading about a summer project for the backup camera, I'm not sure how I'll feel about the factory one until I install my unit. Although I'm curious to know if someone has already swapped out the factory camera for an AHD one and if they used the factory wiring.
yes see the article on here

Updated: Sony 1080P install and Loving it

HD camera, cannot use factory wiring. Must run your own. Well they give you the harness to run
As you can see in order for me to utilize the factory mount you need to get creative or just move it to the liscense plate frame off the hatch. Pulling wire from hatch to body is a pain, but doable.
The only issue I have is the back up lines over steer on screen and I have not found a setting to get them to act like the OEM lines .
But the pic is clear.
I did re wire the camera to trigger and power the camera off the same line. Otherwise the camera has power to it at all times the key is in on, I’m just trying to save some life in the camera. Unless you want to view while going fwd but that would just confuse me.
 
#266 ·
I’ve got the Sony 1080 camera ordered and on the way. Just like you said in your post I’m going to model and 3D print a mount. If it works solid enough I’ll share the .stl for all to use.
I’ve got the Sony 1080 camera ordered and on the way. Just like you said in your post I’m going to model and 3D print a mount. If it works solid enough I’ll share the .stl for all to use.
3D print would have been really nice.

By going through the hatch the Supplied RCA cable harness will come up 2- 2 1/2 ft short of head unit. Plan accordingly
 
#288 ·
Update on 3D Printing a mount for the Sony 1080p backup camera to replace the OEM one:

I've gone through several iterations and models and have gotten really close to a final product but not quite there yet. The biggest issue is that the mount for the OEM camera is too small to allow the Sony camera to sit flush. You can see below how the OEM camera (blue) has its lens jutting out whereas the TEYES unit (red) has barely a few mm's to work with.
Image


Probably could have gotten away with some cutting but it would have gotten seriously close to thinning the OEM mount's plastic and potentially tampering its structural integrity. So I opted to create an entirely new mount.

The goal was to have the new mount fit without any cutting of plastic or metal of the trunk while securing the TEYES camera and have it sit flush. The design below incorporates all of this, as well as maintaining the OEM slide piece that locks the faceplate to the trunk. While the OEM camera bolted directly into the faceplate, there's nowhere on the TEYES unit to do that so there is a secondary piece that goes on the back of the TEYES camera to screw it into place and secure it (seen in the second image below).

Image

Image


After printing several prototypes in PLA (a filament that mildly strong but doesn't handle high temperatures very well) I printed the final version in ABS (much stronger filament handles high temperatures moderately well, though difficult to print and has noxious fumes). Had lots of layer lines on the faceplate so I simply smoothed it out with some Bondo and painted over it.

Image

Image

Image


While it does not look pretty I hooked up the camera yesterday and it is a functional design. It does not have the sunken bezel that the OEM faceplate has so I'm going to try to figure out a way to do that. The screw holes don't have enough surrounding material so one of them started to crack when pushing through it. And lastly the mount is super close to being watertight but I can still see some light coming through. I solved it with some simple plastic trim/emblem glue but probably will go back and adjust the faceplate's angle to sit better.

Stay tuned and I'll hopefully have a model soon enough that I can offer other's wanting to do this.

Side Note: When installing the camera I basically ran the wiring the same route as the OEM camera's. Under the trunk's trim, through the trunk grommet, all the way under the headliner to the front. The only thing I did differently than what I've seen in other forums is I patched the ground into the rear windshield wiper's ground wire. There really isn't enough length to get a quality ground nearby and the rear windshield wiper is one of those things that I can live without if it went wrong as I never use it on account of decals on my glass.
 
#303 ·
I would definitely not be comfortable running over 100mph in any Cherokee, even with Z Rated performance tires. I would love to drive my Shelby on the Autobahn though, at least once before I die. He doesn't even hit 6th gear until he gets to 270 K/PH (168 mph)...😍😁😉

 
#304 · (Edited)
I’ve been up to 90, that’s it, it was fine but that was only on a straight section for a short while. typically my top speed is 80 but for short sections due to speed limits, for longer stretches on regular highways w/ traffic i sometime set cruise to 73-74 but I prefer 70 for fuel economy. that dumb youthful indestructible insanity of being 23 was over 40 years ago. now I just want to get from point A to point B efficiently & economically & alive