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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know of a procedure to test or reset the IBS monitor? I have looked through alfaobd, and nothing seems obvious there. I have also tried leaving the battery cables off for several hours. My first thought was to just replace, but the part is on backorder everywhere. My ESS has not worked for a while (even after driving 3 hours straight, followed by another 3 hours). I have an X2 Power that is about a year old. It always tests SOH at 98 to 100 percent, and the SOC is usually above 98 percent as well, but once or twice it has been around 75 SOC. I've let it sit overnight and tested in the morning with the cables off, as well as tested it tested it in the morning with the cables on. Still not sure if its a battery issue, phantom drain issue, or IBS issue.
 

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My 2014 Doesn't have ESS....is there a way to bypass the sensor and just run the cables right to the battery, i'd imagine that might cause more problems that it would solve?

What's the part number you need, looks like its available in Canada
 

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Does anyone know of a procedure to test or reset the IBS monitor? I have looked through alfaobd, and nothing seems obvious there. I have also tried leaving the battery cables off for several hours. My first thought was to just replace, but the part is on backorder everywhere. My ESS has not worked for a while (even after driving 3 hours straight, followed by another 3 hours). I have an X2 Power that is about a year old. It always tests SOH at 98 to 100 percent, and the SOC is usually above 98 percent as well, but once or twice it has been around 75 SOC. I've let it sit overnight and tested in the morning with the cables off, as well as tested it tested it in the morning with the cables on. Still not sure if its a battery issue, phantom drain issue, or IBS issue.
Doesn't sound like it's battery related. High probability it is the IBS here.

Wish I knew more about the IBS, how to recalibrate it (if it can be recalibrated), etc... Can wiTECH see more / do more than AlfaOBD and if so, how ? You need to talk with an FCA tech...
 

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If the ESS means that much to you, starting at Batteries Plus to have them double check the X2 Power wouldn't be a bad idea. If it were me, I wouldn't be stressing too hard about it, as long as everything else is functioning properly, but I'm in the bunch who feels ESS is a completely worthless function...😎
 

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What a helpful reply from Mark (who has me blocked)

@MikeR.

Check out this post for more information on operation of the IBS

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the ESS means that much to you, starting at Batteries Plus to have them double check the X2 Power wouldn't be a bad idea. If it were me, I wouldn't be stressing too hard about it, as long as everything else is functioning properly, but I'm in the bunch who feels ESS is a completely worthless function...😎
I did actually go and talk with them, but basically they said that they would need to leave it for a few days and that it would need to drop to something like 10v under load to replace based on the warranty. I don't remember exactly off the top of my head. Since it was testing fine for me, I figured it would probably do the same for them. Since I drive it everyday, not really that convenient to just leave with them. I am going out of town in like a month, so that might end up being a possibility.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What a helpful reply from Mark (who has me blocked)

@MikeR.

Check out this post for more information on operation of the IBS

That's actually a decent summary of it. I'm haven't found a way to see SOC and SOH from the IBS itself, but I'm thinking its calculating it incorrectly. Everything runs fine, the ESS just doesn't work anymore. I may have to keep playing around with Afla and keep looking for a replacement. I looked at rockauto, and they are on backorder, so I tried through mopar replacement parts, and I got an email the next day that said they were cancelling my order as it was on backorder and they have no idea when more would come in.
 

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I'm thinking its calculating it incorrectly. Everything runs fine, the ESS just doesn't work anymore.
What message are you getting on EVIC, not available, battery charging, or something like not available, service ESS???😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What message are you getting on EVIC, not available, battery charging, or something like not available, service ESS???😎
Yes. The not available battery charging message.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is this the right part number?

ya. That's the sensor with bracket, I was trying to get just the sensor. Saved about 20 to 30 dollars. I'll probably take another look with Alfa first to see if I can verify it not working. When I saw it was backorder on rockauto, and then got a the cancellation with the other place, I figured its just one of those things in short supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Looks like I've got a few things to go off of. This was under the engine module in the logs. Since I was in Park with my seatbelt off, I image some of these will clear on their
own. I'll just need to keep an eye on it. Does anyone know how to download these logs by chance from a phone?
Font Number Parallel Document Circle

Font Number Document Parallel Screenshot
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Updated logs. I still have a few NOs, but that intelligent battery sensor OK being a no is probably an indicator.

Font Number Parallel Document Circle

Font Number Parallel Document Screenshot
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So after some more searching, I can read SOC and a bunch of other EDD and IBS PIDs with the obdlink app. It was showing 57% in the driveway. Ill have to do it some while driving and on the charger and see how it changes, but the IBS is looking like the guilty party so far.
 

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So after some more searching, I can read SOC and a bunch of other EDD and IBS PIDs with the obdlink app. It was showing 57% in the driveway. Ill have to do it some while driving and on the charger and see how it changes, but the IBS is looking like the guilty party so far.
Did you try charging the battery overnight, and see if that changes anything???😎
 

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My real experience comes with locomotives, but they are vehicles. At one time, locomotives ran for 24 hours a day, seven days a week - moving or not. It was easier because those big diesels were not easy to start and not containing coolant, they were in danger of freezing the engine block at below 40F.

Low and behold, along comes ESS or what we called AESS (Auto Start Stop) and billions of gallons of diesel were no longer wasted and emissions reduced accordingly.

AESS looked at many things: ambient temperature, water temp, oil temp, controls being changed, etc., etc. as well as battery state (charge, temp). When it didn't work, you had a problem. But 'why' was the million-dollar question because when all known parameters are within acceptable, then why would the message 'AESS UNAVAILBLE' be present? It didn't make sense.

OK, I'll get to the point: In those cases where the reason was 'unknown', it always came back to the battery. Or, the battery sensing control. The battery can be ruled out, but the sensor, not so easy. I think you are on the right track. Good luck.
 
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My real experience comes with locomotives, but they are vehicles. At one time, locomotives ran for 24 hours a day, seven days a week - moving or not. It was easier because those big diesels were not easy to start and not containing coolant, they were in danger of freezing the engine block at below 40F.

Low and behold, along comes ESS or what we called AESS (Auto Start Stop) and billions of gallons of diesel were no longer wasted and emissions reduced accordingly.

AESS looked at many things: ambient temperature, water temp, oil temp, controls being changed, etc., etc. as well as battery state (charge, temp). When it didn't work, you had a problem. But 'why' was the million-dollar question because when all known parameters are within acceptable, then why would the message 'AESS UNAVAILBLE' be present? It didn't make sense.

OK, I'll get to the point: In those cases where the reason was 'unknown', it always came back to the battery. Or, the battery sensing control. The battery can be ruled out, but the sensor, not so easy. I think you are on the right track. Good luck.
My real experience comes with locomotives
Tell me you work for the railway without telling me you work for the railroad. I might know a thing or two about locomotives :p

None of the locomotives I deal with use coolant, just plain old water.........and the AESS systems still mess up all the time, like shutting down when its too cold, then having the engine dump it's water, or if you catch it in time restart it and be load limited until it warms up again
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did you try charging the battery overnight, and see if that changes anything???😎
I have not overnight, but I use a 4 amp battery tender. It fully tops if off in less than 30 minutes if I plug it in after driving, so I know its full (or the battery has reduce capacity). I did check this morning with the battery tester (though it was right after driving and not asleep) and it was close to the SOC from the IBS. It's topped off again now, and I'll leave it on the charger till I drive it and then check it in the IBS again to see if it changed. I did see with BMW's IBS that when the sensor messes up, it can cause a parasitic drain, which is similar to what mine seems like at times. I have another IBS on order, so when it comes in, I'll see if it makes a difference. This morning I was only putting about 4 amps into the battery, so it can't truly be at 50%. If that were the case, I would be pushing a lot higher amps into the battery and with a much higher alternator duty cycle.
 
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So after some more searching, I can read SOC and a bunch of other EDD and IBS PIDs with the obdlink app. It was showing 57% in the driveway. Ill have to do it some while driving and on the charger and see how it changes, but the IBS is looking like the guilty party so far.
I may of missed it in one of your previous posts, but are you having any issues other than the ESS not working?

As you may recall from another thread, I'm in the same situation as you with a battery that tests good. However, ESS is not working....it says it is in battery protection mode. But everything else works fine, including remote starts with the seat warmer activating as it should.

Its been 2+ months for me and since I hate ESS I'm quite happy with the situation. So as long as my battery continues to test Ok, I'm just going to leave it as is. So it would appear from my experience thus far that I also have a a failed/failing? IBS. The question I have, which may not be answerable right now, is whether the only function of the IBS is to handle the ESS system?
 
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