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the first change of a 5w-20 oil left me with greater doubts about the oil than before the change-it just did not stop trickling out even after a 1/2 hr or so anyone else have concerns?
What exactly is your concern? Are you concerned that 1/2 hour is too long, which would imply that 5W-20 is too thick?
 

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the first change of a 5w-20 oil left me with greater doubts about the oil than before the change-it just did not stop trickling out even after a 1/2 hr or so anyone else have concerns?
More information please. Was the engine cold or warm? Ideal oil temperature for a change is about 100 degrees. Was the previous oil the correct viscosity? Is the oil exceptionally dirty?

Oil will trickle for a bit. What I do is pour a little into the filler tube once the trickle slows down. When the trickle comes out clean it's done.
 

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Refer to Post #20.
If you don't have the V6 engine then ignore this post.
Congratulations, you have figured out the correct way to change engine oil.
If you don't let it drain for 30 minutes you will overfill the engine with oil, per the dip stick, if you put in exactly 6 quarts.
Or, don't let it drain and only put in 5 1/2 quarts of oil.
Now make sure you are using the correct oil filter (part number) and torque the filter cap with a torque wrench.
If you have really good vision you will notice the torque value is on the top of the cap.
Be sure to replace the filter cap "O" ring and put it in the correct location.
 

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tnks for the replies. I take the extreme-persistent drain time to mean that little, if any of the oil is clinging to the internals BUT I am not an engineer and this is the first vehicle that uses a 5w20 we have had. Torque values were observed (with a wrench that has a cal cert..) and oil was drained about 20 minutes after the vehicle was driven to operating temp.

Years ago I switched to a brand of oil which I am confident has an additive pkg which will safeguard against 'dry' starts- its watching an oil drain for so long that is such a very very different experience for me.
 

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All oils leave behind a thin film as the oil drains back into the pan that prevent dry startup. Additive packages in modern API SN+ or SP licensed oils are pretty similar, just pick one that meets MS-6395 and change it regularly and don't worry about it "clinging to the internals". If it's that important to you Castrol GTX Magnatec advertises Intelligent Molecules that "cling to critical engine parts and provide an added layer of protection." It is very unlikely that Castrol is using some super secret additive that the other companies aren't aware of, and are probably using as well, but if it makes you feel better than use it.
 

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tnks for the heads up on 'Magnatec' I would be tempted to give it a try but I don't see that the product meets MS6395-hope that this does not mean the molecules are intelligent enough not to want to go into the 3.2/3.6 .....Toying with the idea of trying 5w-30 when the hot weather arrives, for a few hundred miles, just to see.
 

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.Toying with the idea of trying 5w-30 when the hot weather arrives, for a few hundred miles, just to see.
Why go outside of spec? 3.2 calls for 5w20 You going up to 5w30 means you are going to a thicker oil thus causing it harder for oil to flow through the engine when it is warmed up, so in reality you risk the oil not getting to the parts it needs. And with VVT systems that rely on oil pressure to work correctly going to a higher weight can cause issues.
Engines see the most wear during starts, and any quality modern oils will do the job in keeping a layer of oil on parts for a time. If you drive it every day there is nothing to worry about. If you drive once a week then you really want the oil that is called for so it will flow correctly to get to those parts during start up.

Just a reminder the 5w is just the oil viscosity when it is cold. When the oil is warmed up then its the viscosity of the 2nd set of numbers.
 

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Using 5W-30 in warm weather isn't going to cause any issues, other than going outside what FCA recommends. A 5W-30 in Texas or Arizona in July is a whole lot thinner at start up than a 5W-20 in Canada or North Dakota in January, and the difference between a 20 grade and 30 grade is fairly small at operating temperature. Using Pennzoil Platinum as an example, the viscosity of the 5W-20 is 8.6 cSt at 100C and the 5W-30 is 9.8 cSt, and since the range for 20 grade ends at 9.29 cSt the 5W-30 is just barely out of the 20 grade range.

The real question is will you gain anything in going to a 5W-30, and how will you ever know it's protecting the engine "better" than the recommended 5w20?
 

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appreciate the replies

this vid is what really got my interest piqued

He does a decent job of explaining the basics but loses a bit of credibility when he refers to oil "weights" at the beginning of the video, oil viscosities are defined as grades, not weights. And, doesn't he just basically says to use what the manufacturer recommends?
 
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yes however the driver towards thinner oils was and remains fuel economy requirements first-vehicle service life a clear/distant second -I believe that the statement, 'an acceptable service life was arrived at' was used and this really should tell us all that we need to know. Much like the rush to cvt transmissions and start/stop 'technology'-the cvt adds less than one mile per gallon and costs, for vehicles like Subaru when the tranny fails it will set one back nearly 7k. The sole solution is a reman unit warrantied for ONE YEAR (or I suppose a bone yard part). Start/stop is about the same economic return in terms of mpg saved but factoring in increased wear it is nonsense and we haven't added in the combo of start/stop AND ultra low viscosity oils.

Watching the oil drain like water coming out of a garden hose in cold weather really gives me pause to think of how much protection (read vehicle longevity) will be provided by 5w20 lubes when the very hot weather arrives here in New England-still just thinking about a switch but a switch is looking more and more necessary-I think, after all both 5w20 and 5w30 meet MS6395.

AND, lets add this to the mix-for all the ultra greenies out there, what is more environmentally responsible getting say 100k out of your car (I really bet this was the 'acceptable' service life) and saving a whopping -grossly inflated- 1 mpg or getting double or even more the service life out of your car? I strongly suspect that more polar bears and polar bear baby's would smile at the thought of keeping the car longer..............
 

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The "driver towards thinner oils" began in 1975 when Congress enacted the Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) act so it's nothing new. 5W-30 was the first CAFE driven "thin" oil that auto makers turned to in order to meet the CAFE numbers in place of the popular 10W-40 back in the 80's.

20 grade oils have been mainstream in the US for over 20 years, starting with Ford and Honda, and now every manufacturer of vehicles sold in the US recommend/require the use of either 0W-20 or 5W-20 in some of their fleet. 20 grade oils have been proven to work very well in their intended applications, and no one can provide real documentation that they shorten engine life. Part of the MS-6395 certification process is that it has to be used for two full years in a fleet taxi service in Las Vegas, which can get a little warm in the summer.

Our Charger patrol cars use semi-synthetic Safety Kleen 5W-20 changed every 5,000 miles and are kept on the road until they are taken out of service at 200,000 miles. Also millions of miles are driven every year by owners of Ram, Ford, GM and other brands of pickups and SUV's hauling heavy campers and other trailers all over the country using the recommended 20 grade oils without problems.

I would never try to talk someone out of putting whatever oil in their vehicle that helps them sleep well at night, just realize that 20 grades have a long history of working just fine and going to a 30 grade that's only 1 or 2 cSt thicker isn't some magical solution to a problem that likely doesn't exist in the first place.
 

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How does the 5w-20 perform in your 2.0?
Jeep recommends synthetic 5W-30 for the 2L turbo, I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. I do use PP 5W-20 in my Ram 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi.
 

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You also need to look at the fact if there is a issue and dealer ask for your records of oil changes and see you been using the non recommended oil. There goes your warranty related to anything engine wise.
 

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As for the oil dripping for 30 minutes on a warm engine (20 minutes after shutdown) it's absolutely normal as oil is still in the upper engine. MS-6395 is recommended but not mandatory (for example Mobil One is not MS-6395 certified but... no worries...). For possible warranty issues, I would stick with 5W20 in the 3.2...
 

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If you're worried about those last few millilitres, try wrapping your lips around the dipstick tube and blow REALLY HARD!!!😎
 

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For whats it worth, a major maker of engine oils has taken this position

'Consumers are not aware of it, but increasingly over the last three decades, upper level OEM management has considered the vehicle life to be a critical factor in the long term financial performance-and survival-of the company. Therefore the lifespan of vehicle components and systems are-planned-to last only a <reasonable> amount of time'

'As long as OEM engines last past the warranty period and preferably past 150,000 miles before needing major work OEM's have minimal risk with the benefit of repair parts at high profit margins. Predictably they don't want the vehicles to last forever because that will not only reduce revenue from repairs but also the number of new vehicles sold. Continued use of modern spec 30 oils in modern engines seems likely to produce too many 200-500,000 mile vehicles which has the potential to cut new car sales in HALF'

Take from the above what you will-for me it is more reason to -consider- my experiment as I can see no way how the thoughts can either enhance or reduce profits for the company .

What is much more clear is that 5w-30 MUST provide more protection against wear/breakdown as it is the spec for the 2.0, the video similarly cited instances where certain applications mandate higher viscosity-is it proper to take this mindset when one tows or spends hours traveling low to very low speeds 'off' road or in very hot weather?

By the way the manual is clear that only oils that meet the recommended MS for the engine should be used-the Pennsoil mentioned -appears- to be non compliant.

I don't recommend anyone do anything-my observations of such a long steady drain-not merely a drip now and again- with a new to me weight of oil just started me thinking ; especially seeing this during cold weather.

Leaning strongly towards making the experiment
 

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By the way the manual is clear that only oils that meet the recommended MS for the engine should be used-the Pennsoil mentioned -appears- to be non compliant.
If you’re referring to the Platinum 5W-30 I use in the 2L it most certainly is compliant. The material standard for the turbo is MS-13340, not MS-6395. Pennzoil synthetic is the factory fill for the turbo.
 

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For whats it worth, a major maker of engine oils has taken this position

'Consumers are not aware of it, but increasingly over the last three decades, upper level OEM management has considered the vehicle life to be a critical factor in the long term financial performance-and survival-of the company. Therefore the lifespan of vehicle components and systems are-planned-to last only a <reasonable> amount of time'

'As long as OEM engines last past the warranty period and preferably past 150,000 miles before needing major work OEM's have minimal risk with the benefit of repair parts at high profit margins. Predictably they don't want the vehicles to last forever because that will not only reduce revenue from repairs but also the number of new vehicles sold. Continued use of modern spec 30 oils in modern engines seems likely to produce too many 200-500,000 mile vehicles which has the potential to cut new car sales in HALF'

Take from the above what you will-for me it is more reason to -consider- my experiment as I can see no way how the thoughts can either enhance or reduce profits for the company .

What is much more clear is that 5w-30 MUST provide more protection against wear/breakdown as it is the spec for the 2.0, the video similarly cited instances where certain applications mandate higher viscosity-is it proper to take this mindset when one tows or spends hours traveling low to very low speeds 'off' road or in very hot weather?

By the way the manual is clear that only oils that meet the recommended MS for the engine should be used-the Pennsoil mentioned -appears- to be non compliant.

I don't recommend anyone do anything-my observations of such a long steady drain-not merely a drip now and again- with a new to me weight of oil just started me thinking ; especially seeing this during cold weather.

Leaning strongly towards making the experiment
Pennzoil most certainly meets the MS specs and is factory fill.

I'd also say that you are overthinking things here. But let's say that 5-30 will give you an extra 100,000 miles out of your engine. Well, what about the rest of the vehicle? How is that going to hold up?

Being an old fart myself, I can tell you from experience that every car I have ever owned basically fell apart before the engine had issues. Sure, you can keep pouring money into any car to keep it on the road, but you eventually reach a point where it's pointless to continue.

That said, if you want to switch to 5-30 and it gives you peace of mind, then go for it.
 
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