[MikeR.]

Over the past few months, I have been having an issue with the sunroof shade not sliding like it should, and bunching up in the front while retracting. I the sunroof a lot, and when off-roading, its subjected to a ton of dust, so not unusual for it to need cleaning and lubed. I cleaned the first time using a rag as I didn't have any qtips. I then used some white lithium spray grease to lube. Unfortunately I got the PB blaster kind, and it smelled horrible. I then used qtips to clean it out, and used a generic white lithium spray grease. It still bunched, but only when its hot outside, and even more in direct sunlight. When its cooler, like in the mornings, no issues with it bunching. I cleaned again, and used a LIL-Glide (a silicone lubricant type product recommended by a youtube video I watched. I applied it with a qtip as well since it comes in a squeeze tube. Still the same end result of bunching when it was hot. The grease that was originally there was black (or at least it was black when I took it out). Does anyone know what product to use to lubricate the power sunshade?

 

[Flybynightcru]

Over the past few months, I have been having an issue with the sunroof shade not sliding like it should, and bunching up in the front while retracting. I the sunroof a lot, and when off-roading, its subjected to a ton of dust, so not unusual for it to need cleaning and lubed. I cleaned the first time using a rag as I didn't have any qtips. I then used some white lithium spray grease to lube. Unfortunately I got the PB blaster kind, and it smelled horrible. I then used qtips to clean it out, and used a generic white lithium spray grease. It still bunched, but only when its hot outside, and even more in direct sunlight. When its cooler, like in the mornings, no issues with it bunching. I cleaned again, and used a LIL-Glide (a silicone lubricant type product recommended by a youtube video I watched. I applied it with a qtip as well since it comes in a squeeze tube. Still the same end result of bunching when it was hot. The grease that was originally there was black (or at least it was black when I took it out). Does anyone know what product to use to lubricate the power sunshade?

I've always used white lithium, but I've never experienced the odor you're having. It doesn't take much. I use a small stiff bristle brush to apply it to the track...😎

 

[MikeR.]

I've always used white lithium, but I've never experienced the odor you're having. It doesn't take much. I use a small stiff bristle brush to apply it to the track...😎

It was just with the PB blaster brand. I think they mix some of the penetrating oil in with it so it has the PB blaster smell. The other white lithium grease didn't have that smell. It is possible I put too much though. I put a decent amount up there. I probably should clean it again and apply as little as possible.

 

[Mark_]

Just reading around... On a MB forum, chat seems to suggest grease form is to be avoided as it attracts dust. Some there tried a bunch of lubes and preferred silicone or teflon bases. Then one person suggested a dry lubricant from Tri-Flow ; reading specs, it looks like it could be a good one : Tri-Flow Superior Dry Lubricant – Triflow Lubricants

 

[AtlCade69]

I think the issue may be in the take up spool at the rear (probably acts like the old home window roller shades, it's supposed to coil up the fabric as the front moves back). You may need to drop the headliner to properly identify and address...

 

[MikeR.]

I think the issue may be in the take up spool at the rear (probably acts like the old home window roller shades, it's supposed to coil up the fabric as the front moves back). You may need to drop the headliner to properly identify and address...

Honestly. This is a very real possibility. I'm trying to go with the easy stuff first, but if all else fails and it keeps getting worse, this will probably be the route I will need to go.

 

[Flybynightcru]

It was just with the PB blaster brand. I think they mix some of the penetrating oil in with it so it has the PB blaster smell. The other white lithium grease didn't have that smell. It is possible I put too much though. I put a decent amount up there. I probably should clean it again and apply as little as possible.

Ya, just clean it really good, and just put a thin layer down both the shade track, and the glass track. Depending on your environment, you should do it every couple months or so. No matter what you use, if you open the sunroof a lot, those greased tracks are like a dirt magnet. A smart manufacturer like Mercedes uses Teflon sliders that don't need grease. Much easier to maintain...😎

 

[AtlCade69]

Ya, just clean it really good, and just put a thin layer down both the shade track, and the glass track. Depending on your environment, you should do it every couple months or so. No matter what you use, if you open the sunroof a lot, those greased tracks are like a dirt magnet. A smart manufacturer like Mercedes uses Teflon sliders that don't need grease. Much easier to maintain...😎

Yep had a MB with over 300,000 miles on it (bullet proof diesel) never once had an issue with a sunroof on any of those that I owned (5 total, only maintenance was blowing out the drain lines and keeping the tracks clean), esp since they had the moveable metal panel which I wish car makers still used - easy to maintain and nearly fool proof.

 

[AZJeeper]

Had that exact same problem off of the dealer lot. Replaced under warranty.

Replace what, you might ask? Work order said R&R sunroof sunshade. I believe that to be item 12:

You might try getting the factory sunroof grease, P/N 68337909AA (item 19).

 

[AtlCade69]

Had that exact same problem off of the dealer lot. Replaced under warranty.
Replace what, you might ask? Work order said R&R sunroof sunshade. I believe that to be item 12:

Item 12 (i believe) has an internal spring in the spool and one end is locked to the frame.
3 issues may arise, 1-the internal spring breaks, 2-the locking end has failed, 3-the locking end became detached from the frame, 4-the shade doesn't have enough tension (pre-load) on the spring

#3 is the most common issue, to fix, the shade needs to be completely rolled up, insert the tab, then pull the shade's front edge out and attach to the mechanism.
this is also what you would do if replacing the shade...

It'll be more obvious when you can actually look at it.

edit... FYI, the cargo cover works much the same way...

 

[Flybynightcru]

You might try getting the factory sunroof grease, P/N 68337909AA (item 19).

That's the same white lithium grease that you get a much bigger container at the parts store, for a third of the price of the small tube they sell at the dealer...😎

 

[SkipW]

My favorite lubricant for doors, windows, hinges, etc is Shin-Etsu. It's the longest lasting silicone grease I've found.

 

[Rand]

My favorite lubricant for doors, windows, hinges, etc is Shin-Etsu. It's the longest lasting silicone grease I've found.

A very small amount is also great on the rubber weather stripping around the doors/hatch too.

 

[MikeR.]

Had that exact same problem off of the dealer lot. Replaced under warranty.

Replace what, you might ask? Work order said R&R sunroof sunshade. I believe that to be item 12:

View attachment 219487


You might try getting the factory sunroof grease, P/N 68337909AA (item 19).

I actually found this as well. I agree 12 is what I would need to replace if it comes to that. I went back to clean the lube, and realized it was much drier than I thought it should have been. I cleaned anyways and applied heavier. I couldn't really test it as it was parked in the garage since my wife is out of town. I'll keep an eye on it and just watch it. If it comes down to having to fully replace it, I'll wait until it just stops working completely as it looks like its replaced as a whole unit.

 

[Flybynightcru]

A very small amount is also great on the rubber weather stripping around the doors/hatch too.

Yep, I use silicone on all the doors, and hatch gaskets in the winter time. Those gaskets are expensive when you rip one off, because it froze to the door jamb...😎

 

[MikeR.]

A very small amount is also great on the rubber weather stripping around the doors/hatch too.

I did use some on the sunroof seals. I need to do it on the door seals as well to keep them good. I was surprised by how high the water came up a couple months ago. It was a good think I had good seals or I would have been inside for sure.

 

[AZJeeper]

That's the same white lithium grease that you get a much bigger container at the parts store, for a third of the price of the small tube they sell at the dealer...😎

No doubt the price is way too high, but are you sure it's just white lithium grease? I couldn't find a chemical description online (didn't look very hard). There are several variations of white lithium grease with varying amounts of additives (like PTFE) and tackiness. Just curious what the Mopar version is and what might make it different. After all, they do recommend it - but who knows if the recommendation is for technical reasons or just profit!

Edit: Just came across an article that explains that petroleum-based greases (like white lithium) speed up plastic decay. Found some track greases that are Polyalphaolefin (PAO) based. This grease can be white too. Also found an old article that said FCA used to use soap-based lithium grease (yet another variation of "white lithium"). So now I'm really curious about what FCA/Stellantis sells as their track grease!

 

[MikeR.]

No doubt the price is way too high, but are you sure it's just white lithium grease? I couldn't find a chemical description online (didn't look very hard). There are several variations of white lithium grease with varying amounts of additives (like PTFE) and tackiness. Just curious what the Mopar version is and what might make it different. After all, they do recommend it - but who knows if the recommendation is for technical reasons or just profit!

I am debating on getting it. I know the grease I got out of it was black, so its got to be something different. I'm first trying to apply more to see if maybe I just didn't have enough as it was really dry when I went to take it off. If this doesn't work, next route will be to get that stuff and try it. It could be a spring thing still, but there is decent tension on it, both hot and cold. Its almost like it just doesn't slide fast enough, and it gets slightly pushed by the front bar moving backwards. If I stop it, it will generally keep moving back on its own until its tight again.

 

[AtlCade69]

I am debating on getting it. I know the grease I got out of it was black, so its got to be something different. I'm first trying to apply more to see if maybe I just didn't have enough as it was really dry when I went to take it off. If this doesn't work, next route will be to get that stuff and try it. It could be a spring thing still, but there is decent tension on it, both hot and cold. Its almost like it just doesn't slide fast enough, and it gets slightly pushed by the front bar moving backwards. If I stop it, it will generally keep moving back on its own until its tight again.

If there is no binding at the front bar along the track, I would definately look at the take up spool area, there just might be some build up back there (too much lubrication can cause its own issues), or something like a leaf/leaves may have gotten back there to cause interference. There is no motor that winds/unwinds the spool, it should just react based on the position of the front bar.

Take pics of anthing you find and let us know!

 

[jcool001985]

As some others mentioned recommend using a dry lubricant as to avoid dirt collecting in it. Something teflon based or a garage door lubricant can work as well since those dry quickly and don't stay as a grease. The existing grease was probably white or clear when new but turned black from collecting dirt and dust. Grease that collects dirt ends up acting more like and abrasive vs actually offering protection.