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Hey, there's nothing wrong with that, and yes, they should do that, but that isn't the way it always works. Hopefully, you won't have that issue (or any other) again.
 

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I have to use the fob to start my KL (no keyless). The ignition switch only has a small rectangular opening for the fob's tip.
The metal key is there to unlock the doors when/if the fob battery or electric unlock fails. Front doors still have old school locks.
Well, my Steel Key will turn the Ignition Switch over. Now I am being bothered by the same problem posted by the OP. The Fob unlocks and locks the Doors, it can remote start, but once I insert the key and turn to "Run", hit the brake with my foot the engine dies. There are two possibilities. The FOB (the battery has 3.24V showing on a Multimeter) has two possible issues
1)The Circuit board is cracked
2) No power from the 3V battery
The reason I think it is the switch is because the Steel Key doesn't even work. Even though it can cycle through the OFF/ACC/Run and Start modes.
 

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Well, my Steel Key will turn the Ignition Switch over. Now I am being bothered by the same problem posted by the OP. The Fob unlocks and locks the Doors, it can remote start, but once I insert the key and turn to "Run", hit the brake with my foot the engine dies. There are two possibilities. The FOB (the battery has 3.24V showing on a Multimeter) has two possible issues
1)The Circuit board is cracked
2) No power from the 3V battery
The reason I think it is the switch is because the Steel Key doesn't even work. Even though it can cycle through the OFF/ACC/Run and Start modes.
There is one piece in the ignition system that is only used for letting the car start from a key in the ignition switch, it's the 'induction coil', if that is damaged or not receiving power, everything else on the car will work. The induction coil is a common issue (for all makes/cars), fortunately it is easy for a dealer service tech to diagnose, and you may even be able to check it from an OBDII scanner + AlfaOBD. The fact that you hit the brake with foot and the engine dies leads to this, esp. if it is happening with multiple keys...
 

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There is one piece in the ignition system that is only used for letting the car start from a key in the ignition switch, it's the 'induction coil', if that is damaged or not receiving power, everything else on the car will work. The induction coil is a common issue (for all makes/cars), fortunately it is easy for a dealer service tech to diagnose, and you may even be able to check it from an OBDII scanner + AlfaOBD. The fact that you hit the brake with foot and the engine dies leads to this, esp. if it is happening with multiple keys...
Remember it is remote Started. You have to have the key inserted and turned to the RUN Position...Yes? You can then hit the brake and drive. Also when I put the key in my UConnect is not responding.
 

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Remember it is remote Started. You have to have the key inserted and turned to the RUN Position...Yes? You can then hit the brake and drive. Also when I put the key in my UConnect is not responding.
Oh, I know, remote starts don't rely on the induction coil,
but as an additional anti-theft measure, if there is no recognized key (via the coil) the system shuts down!
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Oh, I know, remote starts don't rely on the induction coil,
but as an additional anti-theft measure, if there is no recognized key (via the coil) the system shuts down!
View attachment 216539
I can no longer start the vehicle with the Fob, This would help IF any of the dash lights worked. I don't even get power to the U-Connect. Hence my thoughts being it is the Ignition Switch.
The PCM fuse is good (#73 on my fuse panel).
With Jeeps service, they told me to tie both battery terminals together (to reset all the computers and to drain the capacitors). No luck at all.
I am an old school kind of guy, and if ACC is not providing power, then NOTHING will get power. I am at a loss and will keep you updated.
 

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I can no longer start the vehicle with the Fob, This would help IF any of the dash lights worked. I don't even get power to the U-Connect. Hence my thoughts being it is the Ignition Switch.
The PCM fuse is good (#73 on my fuse panel).
With Jeeps service, they told me to tie both battery terminals together (to reset all the computers and to drain the capacitors). No luck at all.
I am an old school kind of guy, and if ACC is not providing power, then NOTHING will get power. I am at a loss and will keep you updated.
Well then, it would seem you need to have the switch replaced...
 

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Glad to hear you got it sorted out!

Makes me wonder if the immobiliser circuitry is integrated into the switch, and if so, whether it was that, or if it was the contacts on the switch that failed...
I am used to something like this, but couldn't find anything like it for the Cherokee. (the ring is the part that was always a failure point.) :unsure:
Rectangle Font Material property Gas Electric blue
 

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Glad to hear you got it sorted out!

Makes me wonder if the immobiliser circuitry is integrated into the switch, and if so, whether it was that, or if it was the contacts on the switch that failed...
I am used to something like this, but couldn't find anything like it for the Cherokee. (the ring is the part that was always a failure point.) :unsure:
View attachment 216560
I don't have "Keyless" That certainly looks like keyless. :)
 

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I don't have "Keyless" That certainly looks like keyless. :)
No, that actually goes around the ignition switch. They were really problematic when the ignition was on the steering column...
 

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No, that actually goes around the ignition switch. They were really problematic when the ignition was on the steering column...
ahhh...Gotcha! I was told today, Surprise Surprise Surprise! It isn't the ignition switch. Or so I have been told. So my thoughts are that I have a bad Grd to a relay in my fuse box or a bad PCM/ECM
 

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I have the same issue with my 2014 jeep trailhawk. Took to dealership & they said they couldn’t come up with anything. So most likely key fob. They ordered a key fob back in early September but said wouldn’t be in until mid November. Haven’t been able to use my jeep for most part because it usually won’t start. On the occasion it does start I have to leave it running because I’m afraid if I turn it off it won’t start again. Which means I can only do quick errands. Called dealership last week to see when the new key fob will be in. Told its now back ordered until end of January! This jeep has been a nightmare!
 

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Possibly both fobs need a new battery. I have all ready replaced the fob batteries in my 2014 TH once.
Went to my local ACE hardware, bought the batteries and the service guy helped me replace the batteries.
Actually he did most of the work. Had to lift the circuit board in order to replace the batteries.
Sometimes the buttons on the fob don't make good electrical contact, cleaning the contacts might help?
Back in the old days we used a pencil eraser to clean the contacts.
The fobs do not need to be reprogrammed when you change the batteries.
Some NAPA parts stores can test the fobs. It just detects if the fob transmits RF.
Get the Jeep battery tested for 'battery health' just to make sure that isn't the problem.
I think you can push the START button with the end of the fob to start the vehicle. Refer to your Owner's Manual.
Since you live in salty air it is possible the battery ground cable is corroded where it connects to the chassis.
I think the skid plate needs to be removed to see it.
You might be able to order new fobs from moparonlineparts.com and get them sooner and for less money.
Then they will definitely need to be reprogrammed.
You can open the driver's door with the physical key in the key fob.
Use a battery tester that can check the voltage of a button battery to determine if the battery is the problem.
Let us know what you discover, I am still trying to learn all I can about my Jeep.
 
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