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My Cherokee has been a PIA but now seems to be OK with the kit. I added a relay in place of the toggle switch as discussed on this forum. It seemed like a great idea. Here is my experience and one last question for the forum. Sorry this is rather long but may help others with their Cherokee.

In North Carolina (my relay was still used in place of the toggle switch), the parking brake came as I hooked up on so I disconnected everything and started the process all over. Then the engine would not start and the dash display said "power steering service required" and various other strange things happened. A rollback took it to a dealer since it would not start. After staying unplanned for an extra week, the dealer said it suddenly started OK. They cleared a lot of error messages and it worked OK.

I believe my addition of a relay in place of the toggle switch caused part of the problem. It was triggered on at the same time as the under hood relay was energized. I believe both relays engaging at the exact same time created confusion on the network buss. I went back to the factory toggle switch and so far no problem except for the following observation:

Steering stays activated:
I noticed that the steering stays active for 17 minutes after the toggle switch is turned off and the relay under the hood is de-energized. I have seen others comment about this. I have avoided any ignition sequence to get it back to driving mode until the steering goes inactive. So far this has worked OK but the Jeep is often setting in the roadway for 20 minutes before I dare try to move it. I do not want to risk another incident as I believe starting the vehicle while the steering is still powered up may have been the cause of my issue in North Carolina.

I would appreciate others sharing their experience regarding the steering remaining active.
 

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My Cherokee has been a PIA but now seems to be OK with the kit. I added a relay in place of the toggle switch as discussed on this forum. It seemed like a great idea. Here is my experience and one last question for the forum. Sorry this is rather long but may help others with their Cherokee.

In North Carolina (my relay was still used in place of the toggle switch), the parking brake came as I hooked up on so I disconnected everything and started the process all over. Then the engine would not start and the dash display said "power steering service required" and various other strange things happened. A rollback took it to a dealer since it would not start. After staying unplanned for an extra week, the dealer said it suddenly started OK. They cleared a lot of error messages and it worked OK.

I believe my addition of a relay in place of the toggle switch caused part of the problem. It was triggered on at the same time as the under hood relay was energized. I believe both relays engaging at the exact same time created confusion on the network buss. I went back to the factory toggle switch and so far no problem except for the following observation:

Steering stays activated:
I noticed that the steering stays active for 17 minutes after the toggle switch is turned off and the relay under the hood is de-energized. I have seen others comment about this. I have avoided any ignition sequence to get it back to driving mode until the steering goes inactive. So far this has worked OK but the Jeep is often setting in the roadway for 20 minutes before I dare try to move it. I do not want to risk another incident as I believe starting the vehicle while the steering is still powered up may have been the cause of my issue in North Carolina.

I would appreciate others sharing their experience regarding the steering remaining active.
I too considered using relays but decided to follow the KISS principle. The only thing I did was include a switch in series with the harness fuse to eliminate pulling and reinserting that fuse. As you have observed, everything works fine every time.

I agree the relay may cause a timing issue with disconnecting the CAN bus connection at the same time the (EPS) electric power steering system is activated. Maybe a timer delay circuit would help. Regardless, the operating instructions are clear about waiting for the bus to sleep, flipping the switch in the center console box (CAN bus disconnect switch) and then activating the EPS.

The steering staying active is not a problem. For me it is actually helpful at times. I use a Blue Ox tow bar and when disconnecting it may bind up the pins if I have not got the KL lined up perfectly straight behind the MH. With that tow bar, if the wheels are turned away from the side of the bound-up pin, it unbinds it. So the EPS remaining on becomes an advantage in that situation.

The first two steps for shifting out of Neutral Mode is to deactivate the EPS and then flip the toggle down to reconnect the CAN bus connection. As long as those two steps are completed, you are good to go, regardless how long the EPS remains activated. I've never had a problem with it.
 

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Ensuring EPS is disconnected from CAN bus before energizing it

As mentioned above a separation of steps (via separate manual steps or some type of automatic delay) is needed to make sure the EPS is disengaged before power is applied.

My existing setup has power coming from the MH and a switch hidden in the cubby box left of the steering wheel to power on my auxiliary brake. It is the last thing I touch in setting up to tow. I intend to add to this switch the function to engage the EPS power relay. This will make the EPS setup automatic entirely through relays but still ensure the correct sequence.
 

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Thanks Array. If it has worked for you then I will try it. After all my problems I just don't want to be calling another rollback to tow it away again!
 

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I recall noticing the EPS stays active a bit after switching out of tow mode; never timed it. Within a few minutes we usually have the Jeep disconnected and moved out of the way.
 

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thanks array

thanks array,
I just got my harness installed yesterday on my 2015 TrailHawk and noticed the steering stayed active and wasn't sure if that was normal. I did notice that after starting to verify normal operation, that as soon as I turn off the engine the steering was off also. (hard to turn steering wheel)

Did not have any problem when turning key on as soon as switch off and fuse pulled.

thanks -- wayne

The steering staying active is not a problem. For me it is actually helpful at times. I use a Blue Ox tow bar and when disconnecting it may bind up the pins if I have not got the KL lined up perfectly straight behind the MH. With that tow bar, if the wheels are turned away from the side of the bound-up pin, it unbinds it. So the EPS remaining on becomes an advantage in that situation.

The first two steps for shifting out of Neutral Mode is to deactivate the EPS and then flip the toggle down to reconnect the CAN bus connection. As long as those two steps are completed, you are good to go, regardless how long the EPS remains activated. I've never had a problem with it.
 

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thanks array,
I just got my harness installed yesterday on my 2015 TrailHawk and noticed the steering stayed active and wasn't sure if that was normal. I did notice that after starting to verify normal operation, that as soon as I turn off the engine the steering was off also. (hard to turn steering wheel)

Did not have any problem when turning key on as soon as switch off and fuse pulled.

thanks -- wayne
Glad to hear you're set up. Welcome to the forum.

Assume you are heading out I-10 on your trip? Last time we went west from FL headed to New Orleans, we stopped at Topsail Hill Preserve State Park RV Resort in Destin, FL and then cruised the shore to Gulf State Park in Gulf Shores, AL. Both Spectacular state parks.

Hope you have a great trip. Let s know how it goes and what you think about towing your TH.
 
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I was just told by @JeepCares that the harness is considered an accessory and I have to pay for it.

I traded in my old car and bought the 2017 TH specifically to tow - two days ago! The dealer knew nothing about this and I had to find the service notice for them (from this thread). I have read every page of this thread and went to sleep (late) last night thinking @JeepCares would help me like everyone else.

I really wish I could have loved my new Jeep, but this makes it very hard.

Is there anywhere else I can go to work with Jeep? How do I open a case with Customer Care?
 

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I was just told by @JeepCares that the harness is considered an accessory and I have to pay for it.

I traded in my old car and bought the 2017 TH specifically to tow - two days ago! The dealer knew nothing about this and I had to find the service notice for them (from this thread). I have read every page of this thread and went to sleep (late) last night thinking @JeepCares would help me like everyone else.

I really wish I could have loved my new Jeep, but this makes it very hard.

Is there anywhere else I can go to work with Jeep? How do I open a case with Customer Care?
I don't believe there is anything that can be done. FCA stopped paying for the kits and installation last year after they made a change to the Jeep Manual. If you look in the Recreational Towing section it should state that the Mopar wiring kit is a required accessory to tow four down.

The reason JeepCares was able to help those of us with 2014-2015 and some early 2016's is because that requirement was not published in those model year manuals as they didn't yet realize, or admit, they had a problem.
 

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I could accept that if I was told it when I asked directly what the requirement was. I did my part and understood there was a need for a harness, I asked about it before buying. I actually said "I refuse to sign until I have the answer." The dealer searched for over an hour to get me an answer. I was told it was the harness I had to buy to connect my car to the RV and it had nothing to do with the dealership to install it. In fact, I was told they could not even order the part. The dealer made every effort, but the information was not available to them. Had I known all of this I could have considered that in my purchase or even negotiated with it. If this is going to be the stance FCA needs to be more upfront about it so that dealers can be upfront with customers.

My perspective: I was lied to by Jeep. As a result, 24hrs after spending over $30K on a car I am being hit for another $300 - $500.
 

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I could accept that if I was told it when I asked directly what the requirement was. I did my part and understood there was a need for a harness, I asked about it before buying. I actually said "I refuse to sign until I have the answer." The dealer searched for over an hour to get me an answer. I was told it was the harness I had to buy to connect my car to the RV and it had nothing to do with the dealership to install it. In fact, I was told they could not even order the part. The dealer made every effort, but the information was not available to them. Had I known all of this I could have considered that in my purchase or even negotiated with it. If this is going to be the stance FCA needs to be more upfront about it so that dealers can be upfront with customers.

My perspective: I was lied to by Jeep. As a result, 24hrs after spending over $30K on a car I am being hit for another $300 - $500.
Hi and welcome to the forum ;)

Wow, sorry to hear that... From your description there, it sounds like miscommunication more than anything. From the get-go with these new harnesses, it has been very difficult to get clear information from FCA. Dealers often don't know anything, yet they should know. What a mess.

Can't say what your particular dealership knew or didnt know when you bought the Jeep. And I don't know if you have anything to use to go after that extra harness cost.

We do know that 2014-15 and some very early 2016 builds can get the harness installed for free, for reasons explained by @bobged above.

If your dealer has good ethics, they should help you with this harness now, in light of all the information they couldn't find. They had access to this information, they possibly just didn't know who to talk to, or they made very little effort to find the information...

I understand your frustration.

Perhaps you should contact @JeepCares and tell them your story. Who knows...
 

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I have reached out to @JeepCares and we have exchanged a couple PMs.

In the end, I do think it will come down to what the dealership is going to be willing to do on the financial side to appease me for providing the wrong information.

What is really scary is that if I didn't have that nagging feeling that I didn't get the right answer my family or another driver could have been hurt or even killed.

It is irresponsible the way this is being handled. It's apparently going to take someone getting hurt for this to be properly addresses. FCA will only have "we gave an obscure reference to a wiring kit in the manual that not even our dealers could understand". I hope the families of those hurt or killed find this thread to support the fact that FCA was made aware of the seriousness of the problem and the failure of their response to inform their owners or perspective buyers.
 

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I towed my 2015 for 1.5 years without the flat-tow wiring kit. IIRC, I had four death-wobble events over that period, the last one at 45 mph in a construction zone on the expressway. Had to come to a complete stop and pause before taking off again. I'm sure there were choice words muttered in cars behind me after that performance. Given the right circumstances, it can be dangerous and possibly shake the vehicle loose from the motorhome.

Jeep did a nice job preparing the KL for flat towing without any speed limits, and initially without any power requirements. I appreciate the work done to make this available (i.e. frame mount position and Neutral Mode). As you know, there are fewer choices available for flat towing unless a manual transmission is chosen. I was looking at the CRV, but Honda chose to get out of the flat-tow market and Ford was having a different set of problems. I'm sure this is not a big moneymaker for the manufacturers.

It's hard to imagine Chrysler engineers did not anticipate the problem. It's their patent covering the shimmy mitigation software tied into the electric power steering. In other words, without being powered up, the steering can start to shimmy. I guess eventually someone slapped their forehead on this one when they connected the dots about the KL being pulled with the ignition turned off. If not, that would be another story.

After reading your post I looked again for FCA notes on this issue in their sales (pre-purchase) pages on the web and found this: http://www.jeep.com/cherokee/capability.html. If you do a search on that page for "flat" you'll find the note on the requirement to add the wiring kit. This is the only hit I got on a Jeep website, googling "2017 jeep cherokee flat tow".

What I've found is that most Jeep dealers don't know anything about flat towing, nor do they care to. Most of their buying customers aren't interested. However, my sceptical side says sales people don't want to inform the customer for obvious reasons. For flat-towers, it's left up to us to scan the internet for facts.

In case you are not aware of this, that harness, when switched on, draws power from the battery even though the ignition is off. You will want to bring 12 volts from your motorhome to charge your Cherokee's battery while it's being towed. We can provide detailed info since we have been there done that. Once everything is done, the Cherokee tows real nice. Also with the TH, you will have to loose the front tow hooks since they occupy the frame mount positions for the base plates.

If you are unable to get the dealer to cover the cost, which I would argue they should since they checked into your specific question, you do have the option to install the harness yourself to save money. Not going to say it's a snap, but doable for a backyard mechanic with some electrical knowledge.

Good luck and welcome to the forum.
 
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I apologize in advance for not reading the 58 previous pages. I just entered the motor home family and chose a 2017 jeep Cherokee Latitude as my toad. It has the active drive train 2 transmission. I know I need to get the wiring harness installed to prevent the wobble but is there anything else I need to do? Do I install that now or after I purchase the tow equipment, etc. I just don't want to get the kit installed thinking I'm good to go when I'm really not. Thanks.
 

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I apologize in advance for not reading the 58 previous pages. I just entered the motor home family and chose a 2017 jeep Cherokee Latitude as my toad. It has the active drive train 2 transmission. I know I need to get the wiring harness installed to prevent the wobble but is there anything else I need to do? Do I install that now or after I purchase the tow equipment, etc. I just don't want to get the kit installed thinking I'm good to go when I'm really not. Thanks.
It really doesn't make any difference as to the order you install your towing equipment, just as long as you don't tow your Cherokee without the wiring harness.

Welcome to the forum. :)
 

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So is the wiring harness all I need or do I need to install a separate wiring system to provide battery charging? Or does this wiring harness take care of all that?
 

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So is the wiring harness all I need or do I need to install a separate wiring system to provide battery charging? Or does this wiring harness take care of all that?
The Mopar tow wiring kit is totally separate from a from a battery charger line or towed vehicle lighting. All it does is activate the power steering module.

I personally installed a RVi Battery Charger
 

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The attached picture was posted on another forum, and is an almost worst case outcome of what can happen by not installing and using the Mopar towed vehicle wiring harness. The following are the member's comments when he posted the picture:

"The wobble always happened after hitting a rough spot or expansion joint driving at highway speed an hour or more and straight ahead. To stop it, I had to slow to less than 10 mph. It was not predictable and many trips were without incident.
The damage happened crossing the Georgia-South Carolina border. I managed to get into the welcome center parking lot thanks to an alert trucker blocking lanes for me"


A few observations:

  • This condition had happened on previous occasions, yet it doesn't seem like he tried to do anything about it.
  • No supplemental brake system, therefore no brake-away switch.
  • No base plate safety cables installed. Don't know if they would have changed the result, but they certainly could have helped.

IMO this vehicle was dangerously close to becoming completely separated from the coach, and could have caused some property damage, and worse yet, caused serious personal injury.
 

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Altered Wiring

I've been lurking on this forum for a while, and have read all 58 pages of this topic. I'm grateful for this thread because I experienced the "wobble", but didn't know it was from the Jeep. My front end on the motorhome went nutso when I pulled away from the side of an uneven road in Texas Hill Country. I was just as in the dark as most of the others on here, and when I get back to home base this fall will be adding the kit.

My question concerns those folks who make the alteration from the installed fuse/block to run a separate switch either inside or outside. That make much sense, but will that modification invalidate the responsibility of FCA in the event of future accidents (or?) because of wheel wobble? Would we have to prove our mod didn't result in the problem?

Gary
2015 6cyl TH bought Nov 2016 without the dealership giving us a clue about this kit!
 

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I've been lurking on this forum for a while, and have read all 58 pages of this topic. I'm grateful for this thread because I experienced the "wobble", but didn't know it was from the Jeep. My front end on the motorhome went nutso when I pulled away from the side of an uneven road in Texas Hill Country. I was just as in the dark as most of the others on here, and when I get back to home base this fall will be adding the kit.

My question concerns those folks who make the alteration from the installed fuse/block to run a separate switch either inside or outside. That make much sense, but will that modification invalidate the responsibility of FCA in the event of future accidents (or?) because of wheel wobble? Would we have to prove our mod didn't result in the problem?

Gary
2015 6cyl TH bought Nov 2016 without the dealership giving us a clue about this kit!
I think as long as the EPS is activated while your towing it really dosen't make any difference how that activation is accomplished. I know some have theirs setup where the activation is automatic anytime they connect their coach umbilical cord and have the coach engine running.

I installed a switch inside my Jeep that allows me to leave the 10 amp fuse under the hood in all the time, and then just flip the switch when setting up to tow.

Whenever we stop on a day's drive, fuel, lunch, etc, I always check to make sure the Jeep's steering wheel turns easily.
 
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