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Rust Proofing for Canada

16719 Views 36 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  chrisbroncos76
What do you think about Krown rust proofing and drilling access holes? I looked at my KL and could not find any high point (not drainage holes) on doors and rear hatch. The hood is the exception but the sound proofing panel must be detached.

IMO, drilling holes will break the paint surface and invite rust. Please don't tell me to consult with Krown because they will assure me it is fine, I would like to hear from those who has actual experiences.

This question/discussion based on my own experience with a Mazda MPV, the doors rusted from inside out. Once you spotted it, it was too late and I don't want it to repeat.

Many owners on this forum did not think additional rust proofing is necessary because Jeep has done that from the factory. It makes sense if you trade your car in every 3-5 years and your roads are not salted.
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You don't need rustproofing. Manufacturers do not supply repair parts beyond 10 years of manufacture. When it biodegrades get a new vehicle. If you want it forever hermetically seal it and put it in a museum. Every vehicle I ever owned was Totaled before it rusted out.
I think BS. I did the same thing decades ago on my SAAB I think.
I installed the electrical device and the wires to the end things.
It was supposed to reverse the electrical current flow in the body.
As far as I could tell it didn't work.
I even tried the anode plug used in a hot water heater, that didn't work.
The only thing that works is wash all of the salt off every time you drive in salt. Then thoroughly dry the entire car.
A guy I new in salt country built a heated pole barn where he could wash and dry his vehicles.
The only other thing that works is have a Summer vehicle and a Winter vehicle.
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