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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I brought my car into the dealer because I noticed something strange while braking. This issue started happening about 2 months ago when I had about 6500 miles on the car (about 2k miles put on since I got it). Well it turns out that my front rotors are warped. They wanted around $350 to turn them, or about $750 to replace front pads and rotors. I had assumed this would all be under warranty but it was actually not covered. I didn't know that the warranty on brakes was only good for 1 year from in-service or 10k miles. That means my brakes warranty expired before I even got the car. I feel like I should be granted an exception since my car was a press car previously owned by FCA, but oh well.

Does rotor warping happen this often with the Cherokee? Are there aftermarket rotors that will be better than the OEM to resist warping? I don't want to have to turn or replace my rotors every 5k miles, I think that's ridiculous.
 

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Go with some Wagner rotors, and perform the proper break in procedure..

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Just for perspective.. I bought my 14 Cherokee TH with 28K and have 87k now with no brake issues. I just bought Wagner OEX heavy duty brakes, and will be getting the Wagner rotors soon.

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For even more perspective...I tow a work trailer constantly, ranging from about 2000-3000 lbs depending on load. I have somewhere between 55-60K miles...never had brake work done.
 
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Skip you would definitely benefit from these OEX pads look them up... very heavy duty for Towing

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have the dealer check the rotors for lateral run-out with a dial gage.
View this Youtube video:
I'm pretty sure its too late at this point for them to do anything further without charging me. I would probably have to do this check myself, but the cost of buying that tool is probably not worth it for me.
 

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Seems to me it should be a Warranty issue.
PM JeepCares on this site and see if they can help.
Since your Jeep is new I would not suspect the hub to be "out" of spec.
If you do it yourself all you should need to do is replace the pads and rotors.
I am not a 'fan' of turning rotors.
 

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In the hills of SF, Taxis of any brand have been known to warp rotors in as little as 14k. Not so with the KL. The factory brakes and rotors are some of the most durable I have seen in severe use.
Did they state what the wear percentage was? Difference side to side?
I would get all of the facts and discuss with your Service Manager.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Seems to me it should be a Warranty issue.
PM JeepCares on this site and see if they can help.
Since your Jeep is new I would not suspect the hub to be "out" of spec.
If you do it yourself all you should need to do is replace the pads and rotors.
I am not a 'fan' of turning rotors.
They said 12 months or 12k miles for any wear items which includes things like pads, rotors, fluid, hoses, etc. Technically based on that I am out of warranty since my car is 27 months old, even though I have owned it for only 5 months. I also asked them about checking the lateral run-out with a gauge and they said they did that so that they could determine whether or not turning the rotors was even an option. They said if I was willing to pay more money than just replacing rotors/pads with OEM I could look into getting high end aftermarket rotors which would be less susceptible to this problem.

Here is the official warranty from Jeep. Seems pretty clear-cut. They even specify date put into service in the case of a Chrysler corporation company vehicle (which is what mine was):

link

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A “press car” could easily have been abused - depending on who actually drove it - leading to overheated brakes and warping. The OP purchased a used car, why would he expect FCA to treat it like a new car?

I do feel for the OP since he may not have been aware of the KL’s true history when he bought it. But sometimes what an owner thinks is a warped rotor is simply poorly distributed pad material on the rotor surface giving the feeling of pulsating brakes. That is easily fixed for free, but if the dealer actually measured the runout and it was out of spec, then rotor truing/replacement is the only option.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A “press car” could easily have been abused - depending on who actually drove it - leading to overheated brakes and warping. The OP purchased a used car, why would he expect FCA to treat it like a new car?
This was my number one concern after my purchase. See my first post ever on this forum 5 months ago: My new cherokee may have been a "press car". Should I be concerned?

At the time there were slim pickings for cherokees with the options I wanted so after losing out on two different ones at two dealers (other people bought them before I could even get to the dealer to look at them) I immediately jumped on the third. I didn't have the option of waiting any longer because winter was coming and I needed a vehicle. It would have been nice to have had the time to get the vehicle inspected by an independent mechanic. Hard to do when you are buying a vehicle out of state, 500 miles away from your hometown, in a city with a population of like 1200.
 

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This was my number one concern after my purchase. See my first post ever on this forum 5 months ago: My new cherokee may have been a "press car". Should I be concerned?

At the time there were slim pickings for cherokees with the options I wanted so after losing out on two different ones at two dealers (other people bought them before I could even get to the dealer to look at them) I immediately jumped on the third. I didn't have the option of waiting any longer because winter was coming and I needed a vehicle. It would have been nice to have had the time to get the vehicle inspected by an independent mechanic. Hard to do when you are buying a vehicle out of state, 500 miles away from your hometown, in a city with a population of like 1200.
Did they give you the full "New Car" warranty? Technically, if you bought a press car, you bought a used car. I guess it depends on the dealer. I know my dealer offers Free Lifetime Powertrain Warranty. That was a huge selling point for me. Also gave me the Max Care at a huge discount.
 

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No matter, it's all about what the Dealer claims as the "causal part" for the repair was. Just my guess, but I would bet a sticking Caliper was involved, which is why I asked for pad readings. If a covered component cause damage to a non covered one, it's considered "related damage", such as a caliper sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did they give you the full "New Car" warranty? Technically, if you bought a press car, you bought a used car. I guess it depends on the dealer. I know my dealer offers Free Lifetime Powertrain Warranty. That was a huge selling point for me. Also gave me the Max Care at a huge discount.
No it was considered a used car (to most banks it was considered a new car though and I qualified for new car loan rates). I got the remainder of the basic factory car warranty and powertrain warranty. I will have one of the first 2019 models on the planet that runs out of warranty since my in-service date was Jan 2018. My warranty ends Jan 2021. This was the major trade-off I accepted for getting $12k off sticker.
 

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Earlier I said "Wagner" rotors... I meant to say Centric parts. They are the best rotors. Very heavy and thick. Will not warp.


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No it was considered a used car (to most banks it was considered a new car though and I qualified for new car loan rates). I got the remainder of the basic factory car warranty and powertrain warranty. I will have one of the first 2019 models on the planet that runs out of warranty since my in-service date was Jan 2018. My warranty ends Jan 2021. This was the major trade-off I accepted for getting $12k off sticker.
Oh man!!! I got like $12K off sticker on my 19 in November 19, brand new with 14 miles on it. $32 900 for maximum equipped Elite was definitely the deal of a lifetime. Last 19 on the lot, right place at the right time!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh man!!! I got like $12K off sticker on my 19 in November 19, brand new with 14 miles on it. $32 900 for maximum equipped Elite was definitely the deal of a lifetime. Last 19 on the lot, right place at the right time!!!
Yeah I overpaid by about $1500-$2000 but I needed a car at the time. I wanted to pay around $28k but had to settle for $29.5k. The dealer knew I drove a long way from out of state so they were not willing to negotiate. Everything except rock rails, black wheels, NAV, and towing. I added the wheels and towing after for about the same price as a new factory build. Adding the RRO sliders soon. All that stuff puts me into the $32k range.

There was a new 2019 olive green fully loaded trailhawk elite I saw online down in Alabama at the time, selling for like 27.5k but you needed to be a disabled veteran, low income, low credit score, live in Alabama, etc. to qualify.
 

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I had my TH since I bought it new off the lot in 2018 and have almost 23k mile on and and some of that is off road and a chunk of that is in mountain passes. I have had no break issues. I bet you that some of the press that had it did breaking test in it basically taking it from highway speed to 0 repeatedly to see how it performs. I am willing to be at some point (likely multiple points) the breaks go overheated while the pres was having their way with the Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just wanted to add to this that I replaced the rotors recently and found the issue immediately. The problem was worse than I thought:


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Would have had to replace within the year based on my pad wear:

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Reminder that Jeep only gives you a warranty 12 months or 10,000 miles on brakes, which is a total joke in my opinion.
 
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