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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought the hazard sky 2" leveling kit and the mfc relocation brackets, here is what I have learned from doing the front (the rears are tomorrow):

- each axle is a little different

- I bought the mfc relocation brackets and I ended up needing to mount them differently on each side to give me the best room with the abs line and brake lines. Also the nylon locking nuts are easy to cross thread and I had to cut one off and buy more. I am very glad I bought the relocation brackets, I don't think doing the lift is a good idea without them. This was mainly because I could not move the rubber things that hold the lines in place (I've seen some people online were able to slide them, they would not slide at all for me, even with some oil). Without the brackets the brake and abs lines get pulled really tight when you turn the wheel to the full lock. I also ended up flipping one of the rubber things upside down on the abs line near the inside of the arch which worked to give me more slack.

- the plastic arch liner is different between left and right. On the left front of my vehicle there is an opening in front of the cv halfshaft axle. On the right there is extra plastic there that the brake line rubs on.

- Lowering the knuckles on the strut the full "2" inches (it's actually not a full 2 inches based on my hazard sky lift kit but I think it was supposed to be at least 1.5 inches) is impossible. I used a block of wood and mallet and banged on the knuckle, jumped on it, etc. I then also used a macpherson spring compressor and compressed the spring on the strut which helped me get a little more lift (note, on the right of my vehicle the strut compressors have less clearance, they were scraping up inside the strut housing at the top). The best I could do was 1.125 inches on the left (28.575mm) and 1 inch (25.4mm) on the right. The lower control arm on my vehicle will not go any further down to allow for more lift. Also I had to be careful not to move anything because that would cause the knuckle to slide back up on the strut and then I had to start over (happened a bunch of times). Obviously the cv axle and lower control arm don't like being pushed that much lower and want to slide back up. Hopefully it's not a big deal that there is a 1/8" (3mm) height difference between left and right sides. If I care enough in the future I may attempt to lower the one side to fix the 3mm of extra lift. Also, I only got 1 strut collar for each side with my kit (didn't pay for two) and in retrospect that was good because I don't have room for a second collar anyway.

- do not attempt to drill out the plate that is sitting inside the knuckle. I drilled it out on the left side and it ruined 3 carbon steel drill bits before it finally drilled through. Instead just pull it out of the way with some locking pliers.

- there is not a lot of clearance to get wrenches or sockets on there. In the future I will buy an impact gun to hopefully make my life easier. Instead I used various sizes of wrenches and sockets, breaker bar, and a torque wrench. Torquing the knuckle bolt to 89 ft/lbs is tough by hand. I also had a buddy help me. I didn't have the strength to undo or torque down that bolt myself. A second set of hands was useful at times.

- it took me way longer than I expected. Just the front took about 6 hours. I expect the rear will take me at least 4 hours.

Overall I am pretty happy with how it came out but I still haven't put the wheels on and taken a drive yet. My concerns are mainly whether or not the 1/8" of lift difference between the front sides is going to be noticeable or problematic (I doubt it). Plus since in the US we are left hand drive perhaps my extra weight on the left side of the vehicle will lower the suspension the 3mm to make everything level lol. Also whether or not the lift will stick. I have concerns it will fall at least back down to the strut collar, which in my case would mean falling 1/4" on one side and 1/8" on the other.

The rears are tomorrow.
 

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I just did mine last weekend on my 2019 bought the hs kit first then did the buy back thing with mfc and got there kit mfc instructions are alot better it gives you 2 collars put the first on then pry up on it to get the second collar on, the drivers side on mine was tuff had to have my son pry it up why I put the collar on,passenger side seamed a little easier, like the way the mfc spacers are on the rear seams to be a much sturdier way to do it the hardest part doing the rear was getting the the hole lined back up to get the bolt back in. Got it aligned yesterday it was out quite a bit but he got it lined right up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Finished the rear. In general the rear was much easier than the front. I ended up not following the directions from Hazard Sky since I believed that using the spring compressor was too dangerous. However, using a spring compressor would have allowed it to be a one person job. Instead I needed a second person because I disconnected the sway link connected to the lower control arm, then disconnected the lower control arm to remove the spring. The second person is needed to line up the control arm again with the joint when putting back together.

My rear left was a breeze, but the rear right was a bit of a pain. The lower control arm didn't want to line up again with the knuckle but eventually we got it.

Since I didn't get the front lifted all the way my vehicle still has a rake to it (front lower than rear). However that is what I wanted so I'm satisfied.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Front left:

210981


Front Right:

210982


Rear right:

210983
 

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@sqenixs Interesting problems you ran into. I've done the lift on both an AD1 and a TH and never had any problems getting the knuckle to drop by at least 1.25". Also, drilling thru the "shark fin" (strut alignment tab) has always been a breeze -- no more than 15 seconds each, with a normal steel drill bit that was unscathed afterwards.

Question: did you jack up the entire front end when doing your lift, or did you only do 1 side at a time? Doing 1 at a time puts a slight "twist" in the strut and all kinds of funky stresses, which may have been a factor.

And that's also weird about the ABS lines. The relocation bracket shouldn't be necessary at all. My TH with Dobinsons + 19mm Aussie lift (total of 2 full inches higher than stock TH) were ample length. Granted, I got the grommets to slide, but even so, the brackets don't add any length to the lines, so I can't imagine how they alone could make much of a difference.

As far as the strut slipping inside the knuckle, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you put the proper torque to the pinch bolt/nut, the clamping force ought to be sufficient. I personally have 50k miles with my lift, including lots of hard off-roading, and it's never budged the slightest amount.

via tapatalk : 2014 V6 Trailhawk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@sqenixs Interesting problems you ran into. I've done the lift on both an AD1 and a TH and never had any problems getting the knuckle to drop by at least 1.25". Also, drilling thru the "shark fin" (strut alignment tab) has always been a breeze -- no more than 15 seconds each, with a normal steel drill bit that was unscathed afterwards.

Question: did you jack up the entire front end when doing your lift, or did you only do 1 side at a time? Doing 1 at a time puts a slight "twist" in the strut and all kinds of funky stresses, which may have been a factor.

And that's also weird about the ABS lines. The relocation bracket shouldn't be necessary at all. My TH with Dobinsons + 19mm Aussie lift (total of 2 full inches higher than stock TH) were ample length. Granted, I got the grommets to slide, but even so, the brackets don't add any length to the lines, so I can't imagine how they alone could make much of a difference.

As far as the strut slipping inside the knuckle, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you put the proper torque to the pinch bolt/nut, the clamping force ought to be sufficient. I personally have 50k miles with my lift, including lots of hard off-roading, and it's never budged the slightest amount.

via tapatalk : 2014 V6 Trailhawk
Yes I jacked up the entire front end when doing it. However the banging on the knuckle to get the knuckle to go down did require me to readjust the rotation/twist of the strut a bit before tightening down the knuckle since it moved. It was a fairly minor amount and I don't think the minor twisting really does anything bad. I was reading about people who had rotated theirs like 180 degrees.
 

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Yes I jacked up the entire front end when doing it. However the banging on the knuckle to get the knuckle to go down did require me to readjust the rotation/twist of the strut a bit before tightening down the knuckle since it moved. It was a fairly minor amount and I don't think the minor twisting really does anything bad. I was reading about people who had rotated theirs like 180 degrees.
Did you disconnect the sway bar each side when you did them? And for future reference - including people searching, I freed the grommets on my lines by CAREFULLY sliding a tiny allen key down along the lines inside the grommets and applying wd40 (the allen key opens a gapfor the wd40 to get in). Maybe a very small Knitting needle or a very large normal needle with the tip sanded / ground blunt would work too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Did you disconnect the sway bar each side when you did them? And for future reference - including people searching, I freed the grommets on my lines by CAREFULLY sliding a tiny allen key down along the lines inside the grommets and applying wd40 (the allen key opens a gapfor the wd40 to get in). Maybe a very small Knitting needle or a very large normal needle with the tip sanded / ground blunt would work too.
Disconnecting the stabilizer bar or the link would not have done anything. The problem was that the lower control arm was hitting the front suspension cross member and would not go any lower. I did disconnect the rear stabilizer links when lowering the lower control arm. The relocation kit from mfc offroad did a fine job for the lines so I'm not concerned about that.
 

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Sweet - sounds good - but why I mentioned the sway bar link is I find that to be able to manipulate the strut - ie. to remove possibly counterproductive forces and loads on the strut in various directions, it's easiest to just have the links released. Last weekend I readjusted my front strut positions by 10mm more for proper levelling (giving total now of 40mm offset) and had no issues with easily dropping the knuckle - had to have a jack under the arm to stop the knuckle dropping away too much actually.

I jack under the arm to nearly weight carrying point then apply spring compressors and drop the jack away again - this time the struts stayed up with the springs - I think because the screwthread on rear compressor was notched on the edge of the lower spring seat (strut gas pressure isn't very great) - but if they ever do drop then a little levering or lifting is the order of the day. Having the sway bar disconnected gives the freedom needed.
 

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What I would do is buy 2 more collars and then you could put one on then us a pry bar under it to get the second one on,plus you don't have the brake line brackets on right they sit down towards the strut both plates mount on the front and fit flush with the strut if you wanted it level you could of left the plastic spacer out of the rear just use the bottom one,you don't wan't one side higher than the other side in the front it could cause handling problems and probably would be hard to get aligned right. Just a suggestion.
 

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Also, with regard to nuts I struck the same thing as the OP - ie. the Fastener Store I went to gave me the correct grade 10.8 bolts but the nuts looked like they were from the corner hardware store - and yep the first one I pulled torque on started to strip - so I checked out the factory nuts and they had the same thread so i just reused those which worked fine. The factory bolts are torque to yield so reusing those isn't a good idea - but the nuts should be fine to re-use.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What I would do is buy 2 more collars and then you could put one on then us a pry bar under it to get the second one on,plus you don't have the brake line brackets on right they sit down towards the strut both plates mount on the front and fit flush with the strut if you wanted it level you could of left the plastic spacer out of the rear just use the bottom one,you don't wan't one side higher than the other side in the front it could cause handling problems and probably would be hard to get aligned right. Just a suggestion.
I got it aligned the other day, all numbers within spec except right side (less lift by 0.125inches) out of spec by 0.2 degrees in camber. I can live with that. As for the brackets as long as nothing is rubbing, pulling, or scraping it doesn't matter. Like I said I wanted the front to have less lift than the rear to maintain the "rake". I did not want to level the jeep. So I'm leaving it alone for now.
 

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I got it aligned the other day, all numbers within spec except right side (less lift by 0.125inches) out of spec by 0.2 degrees in camber. I can live with that. As for the brackets as long as nothing is rubbing, pulling, or scraping it doesn't matter. Like I said I wanted the front to have less lift than the rear to maintain the "rake". I did not want to level the jeep. So I'm leaving it alone for now.
Wait, so you are driving around with one side 1/8 inch lower on one corner still??? You haven't gotten that last spacer in yet???
 

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1/8 inch is negligible and not really something I'd worry about either - and I'd imagine the alignment shop would have jumped up and down if they felt it was an issue too. Pretty sure there are many vehicles driving around with bigger differences than that just from worn / damaged suspension components and bent chasis.
 

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Yep - I'm actually the same - my last was just to reassure the OP that altho not ideal, it's not the end of the world either :)
 

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I am a little ocd everything has to be perfect or it bugs me to death,than I just think about it all the time.
If it works for you that's great enjoy it.
Agreed!!! I'm still scratching my head. LOL! That's kinda like, well, I couldn't get that 4th shock on, but heck, 3's good to go. :unsure:
 

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Yep - I'm actually the same - my last was just to reassure the OP that altho not ideal, it's not the end of the world either :)
It would be huge for me. After all the issues that you guys have had with installation, I'm paying the professionals to do mine. Already scheduled, then off to Moab for a well earned vacation!!! Might even earn a couple "Badges of Honor"!!!
 

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