If the helper lift support is weak it can affect the lift gate closing as well since the motor is looking at closing speed as one factor. If out of bounds parameters will stop. That is what happened on my 2014 KL when my right side helper lift support got weak. Gate would not always close or would reverse during closing. New lift support and all worked normally again. What you don't want to do is burn up the motor with too much stress due to a weak lift support. $500 easy for a new motor lift.

 

I just ordered the helper strut, I will report back

 

Stick your finger in the locking mechanism of the door.. Jostle around the clasp then try again.. Had to do it many times.. Works everytime.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

Stick your finger in the locking mechanism of the door.. Jostle around the clasp then try again.. Had to do it many times.. Works everytime.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Is the locking mechanism one of the things that communicates with the liftgate motor?

 

Sometimes the software gets confused.
You seem to have done most of the following already, maybe a double check is in order?
Probably the computer knows the location of the latch.
With the liftgate open can you push a trunk release button and open the latch mechanism?
Try to button on the dash, the trunk area button and the key fob. Hopefully they all work.
I have never had a problem with the gas strut on a Cherokee.
See if there is obvious leakage on the seal where the rod goes into the cylinder.
Prop the tailgate open and remove the gas strut. Determine if it seems to be working correctly.
Check the status of R67. You should have gotten a postcard from FCA if there is a recall.
The easiest way to see if R67 is done is to look at the left strut where it connects to the body.
There is an extra hole nearby. If there is a rubber plug R67 has not been done. If there is a steel bolt installed R67 has been done.
If there is nothing plugging the hole and water is getting in that is a problem.
If you can get to the liftgate module in the trunk see if it has water damage or the connector is corroded.
Take lots of pictures, at least for your own future reference.

Since you like to do your own repairs you should probably get the Hayne's manual, it seems to be helpful and not too expensive.
I keep mine "horsed up" with hints and tips that I have discovered.

And of course check the car battery, that is always my mantra.

And a belated Welcome to the forum. There is lots of helpful information on here.

 

Thanks for all the tips! Here's what I can report:

"With the liftgate open can you push a trunk release button and open the latch mechanism?"
- I'm not sure what you mean by this. With the liftgate open I pushed the latch closed on the tailgate. Then I pressed the tailgate opening button on the bottom of the tailgate (still open) and it opened the latch.

"The easiest way to see if R67 is done is to look at the left strut where it connects to the body.
There is an extra hole nearby. If there is a rubber plug R67 has not been done. If there is a steel bolt installed R67 has been done."
- Checked for this an the bolt appears to be there. I also did a VIN check and it appears that my Cherokee had the R67 performed. I'm not the original owner so I can't confirm otherwise. Here are some pics:

"If you can get to the liftgate module in the trunk see if it has water damage or the connector is corroded."
- Are you referencing the latch on the liftgate? Or is the liftgate module just on the inside of the rubber grommet in the picture above?

There seems to be no indication that the power lift piston is compromised other than on the bottom where it connects to the liftgate (shown in the picture below in the open position). This seems more like grime and dirt than rust but it's also causing the finish to come off.

I'll put an order in for the Haynes manual. I used to to have it for an older '97 Corolla but it was a much simpler car and I got lucky so I didn't have to do any major repairs to it.

 

my 2016 cherokee limited is doing the same thing it opens fine but closes about 2 inches at a time 2 or 3 times then it shuts down until you manually close it then reopen it, I'm thinking of ordering the helper strut first if that doesn"t work then order the power strut.

 

That's what I would do, and you might get lucky. Anytime there is a problem with a power liftgate, on any make of vehicles it is almost always the helper strut, which if you let it go to long, will burn up the electric "screw jack" mechanism. It's not a terrible idea to just change out the $20 helper strut every couple of years, than have to replace the very expensive screw jack side. Those rarely fail if the dampening strut is operating correctly...Keep us posted...😎

 

Hold the lift gate up with a rod, remove the helper gas strut, and see if seems ok.
Then replace the replace the defective part.

 

Think you are going to have to visit your Jeep dealer.
There may be some kind of synchronizing procedure the dealer can do?
The easy fixes aren't working. This does not seem to be your lucky day.
There is a sensor someplace that prevents the hatch from closing if there is an obstruction. Maybe it has failed?
Report back when you finally resolve your issue.

 

I was thinking the same thing (going to dealership for a diagnosis at least). I'll report back once I have more info.

 

Need to fix my mis-information:
The recall is R27 not R67. (this statement is NOT correct)
This is a link to the R27 recall instructions: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2015/RCRIT-15V393-6798.pdf
This should answer most of your questions.
Since you have the bolt, R27 was done. Since you have a 2016 the bolt was installed at the factory.
Figure out how to get FCA to send recall notices to you and not the previous owner.
You can also go to Jeep.com and under Owners there is a link to check recalls. (just tried and it doesn't work)
Now I am really confused. There really is a recall R67.
This is the link to the R67 recall instructions: Safety Recall R67 / NHTSA 15V-826 Power Liftgate Module - 2015-2016 Jeep Cherokee | FCA
Both recalls almost say the same thing.
R27 adds the bolt, R67 does not add the bolt.
R27 is applicable to 2014 and 2015 models.
R67 is applicable to 2015 and 2016 models.

 

I haven't had a chance yet to go to the dealership but will keep everyone posted when I do and get more info.

 

HighVisGuy: I'm in Australia, but have a 2016 Cherokee Limited Diesel - with the power tailgate, and have had this same problem several times. First couple of times were in the warranty period and the dealer indicated it may have been dirty / dusty sensors on the tailgate, and whatever they did seemed to sort it out. It occurred again when I had the Jeep at home and I had some time to do some classic Google research - and I found a technical problem solving forum (strangely, not the Jeep one) that had the answer.

You need to locate the fuse for the powered tailgate (if you haven't been into the fuze box, they're all numbered and set out in tiny font on the lid of the fuze box, in my Oz car if I recall it's F50), carefully remove the fuze for a few seconds, then replace it. Lock and unlock the car once or twice with the remote key, then press the power tailgate open / close. It may take a couple of repeats of the whole process. Apparently the computer controlling the power gate can "get confused" but this process re-sets it!

Cheers

Alan

 

For the USA market, only the 2014 V6 Trailhawk with power lift gate uses fuse F23 and is 70 amps. (this is what my TH actually has as OE).
According to my Owner's Manual this is Body Control Module Feed 1.
According to the Hayne's manual F23 is 50A for model year 2014.
My liftgate had this problem once and somehow I fixed it.
So I have removed the plastic cover on the tailgate that covers the latch emergency release lever.
If somebody needs to emergency release my liftgate by crawling into the cargo area at least they won't have to deal with the cover.
Disclaimer: I don't know anything about Australia 2016 Cherokee Limited Diesel.

 

Never had any issues with my auto back hatch then ,I had R27 done on my 2015 in January 2016, it started not opening or closing randomly, the fuse removal and replacement would get it to work.Took it back to dealer and they said they had to rerun the programming portion from the recall and it worked much better after that. BUT, it still acts up once in awhile and I can get it to close by pushing it shut or closing it part way manually then opening fully again it will work. Haven’t had to remove the fuse at least to get it to work when it acts up.
so see if they can rerun any programming to get it to work at least a little better.

 

Update: All the home remedy resetting attempts have failed to fix the problem. I went to the dealership the other day and they asked for $160 to diagnose and give me a quote to fix it which I felt was a little steep for what is essentially a convenience issue.

I'm going to try and find some tutorials for replacing the powered strut and maybe do some more in depth electrical investigating myself when I have a nice warm weekend day. Any advice or resources would be greatly appreciated. I already have the Haynes manual (online version).

 

Update: All the home remedy resetting attempts have failed to fix the problem. I went to the dealership the other day and they asked for $160 to diagnose and give me a quote to fix it which I felt was a little steep for what is essentially a convenience issue.

I'm going to try and find some tutorials for replacing the powered strut and maybe do some more in depth electrical investigating myself when I have a nice warm weekend day. Any advice or resources would be greatly appreciated. I already have the Haynes manual (online version).

Hello, did you find the solution to the problem finally?

 

Any update? I am having the same issue on my 2015 Cherokee Trailhawk, liftgate opens fine but when closing only goes down a few inches and then stops. Looked up recalls and have had the R67 completed. Just replaced right shock and still having the same issue. Checked the lock mechanism and it appears in good working order. Tried pulling the fuse and nothing. Might try disconnecting the battery for a bit to see if that has any affect. Also tested the pinch sensors and those are functioning. Are there more sensors that should be checked? Any input or suggestions would be appreciated, this is getting frustrating not being able to figure this out or make any headway on the issue.

 

Try removing the plastic panel inside the hood and make sure nothing is jamming the locking mechanism.
Some of the manual trunks have a loose nut that jams the mechanism.
Make sure there is no water below the trunk floor. I think the power liftgate module is under there.

 

From how I read the post it sounds like the tailgate will not lower, as in stuck in the upright position. I don’t think it’s a closes but doesn’t lock situation. Sounds like the power ram is bad. Already replaced the helper ram, so I could see why it opens but not closes…

 

I have this same issue on a 2017 Cherokee. Opens fine, then closes 2 inches and stops, then again same thing. Tried helper strut and no fix. Thinking about replacing the power strut.

 

2016 Cherokee Limited Mine opened well but did not close, it closed 2 inches and it stopped, I finally found the problem. The blue wire in the rubber of the motorized cylinder was cut. I soldered it and everything works.

 

Well, That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the tip. I'll find time to pull mine apart and report back.

 

So i took the power strut off, and yes the blue wire was ripped apart. On mine though, it was broken too close to the strut end to be able to solder together. I ordered a replacement strut from ebay and it works again. The ebay one is a cheaper knockoff but it works, only thing I don't like is the rubber grommet needs to be just a touch bigger to securely fit the hole. I'm going to grab some black RTV silicone from work and that will take care of any potential leaks.

 

I had the same issues. Replace the power strut and it fixed the problem. Works perfectly now.

 

How long did the power strut last? Mine is 9 years old, but I don't use it a lot.

 

I have a 2017 trailhawk. I use it all the time so I am not surprised it wore out.

 

My automatic tailgate wouldn't do anything. Open or close. It wouldn't even lock. Pulled the fuse, put it back in and it worked.

 

Power Tailgate won't close, Deja Vu.
Opened the tailgate to put groceries in the trunk. Would close but didn't latch. Pushed the latch mechanism with a screwdriver, didn't work, latch mechanism seems to be ok.
So when I got home I looked up what fuse to pull to reset thef PLGM. The NEW cover I put on the PDC shows the fuse locations, but doesn't list what the fuses are for.
For my 2014 TH it is F23 70A in the PDC (BCM feed 1). Looking at the fuse you can't tell if it is blown or not, so I checked it with an ohmmeter. Fuse was good. Waited maybe 10 minutes and put the fuse back in. If you are looking for a Power Liftgate Fuse you will never find one.
Trunk would open and close but still not latch. When I pushed the long rubber button on the lower edge of the liftgate, that fixed it (make sure the Power Liftgate is closed).
Apparently pushing the button tells the software the lift gate 'fully closed' postion.

 

Happened again today. Naturally I was off road.
Fortunately I put Post #32 in my Hayne's Repair Manual where I could find it.
Turned off the Jeep, got out and closed the driver's door.
The liftgate was closed but not latched. Pushed and held the long rubber button on the lower edge of the liftgate.
The latch made some faint noises. The liftgate finally latched properly. All is good. Didn't need to pull any fuses or do anything else.

 

That's why you need to wash that thing a little more often than just when it rains, and shot of lube on all the latches and hinges once in while doesn't hurt either...LOL!!!😁😉😎

 

Hi everyone. Happened to me today. Thanks to this thread and community for help. Found broken blue wire. Soldered it and was very happy.

Spoiler: Broken blue wire

photo_2024-09-24_23-51-50.jpg

• save2love
• Sep 25, 2024

Broken blue wire