What year?
Does it work at all if you try to help it?
With what you describe, it seems that something is binding or sticking. There are lots of things that pop up if you google for 'power liftgate sticking'

 

It's a 2016 Latitude. When I press the button (on my fob, by the steering wheel, on the door itself, or the button on side panel by the lift gate), it makes the normal dinging sound, the lift gate activates and starts to rise. After about 1 second, it immediately slams shut. If the gate is open and you press the button, it'll make the dinging sound, start to close, and then immediately reopen.

I can manually open it, but it'll start to close and I just have to overpower it and it'll open.

I've google all kinds of things related to this, but haven't found anyone with the same issue. It seems most people's issues are the lift gate being completely stuck, or not having any power at all.

 

It could be the right side helper strut that needs replacing. I had to replace the one on my 2014 about a year ago since the lift gate gave up opening on its own and would not close either. The motor monitors resistance and speed and will abort the open/close if out of specs. That helper strut is very important.

 

That might be a good place to start. It starts opening/closing normal, but it seems like it thinks it's meeting resistance and reverses itself. Just curious, was it an expensive fix?

 

The helper strut you can replace in under 10 minutes. Just need a small screwdriver or pick to pop off the little locking clips on each end of the old one. The new one just snaps in place on the ball studs. A little grease on those ball studs makes it slip on a bit easier and offers lubrication for movement as well. They are less than $30 on rock auto or Amazon.

 

Thanks. I'll give it a try and film it. if it works, i'll post the fix.

 

You can check the helper strut in a few seconds. Just undo one clip and pop it off (liftgate up, of course). Probably best to undo the liftgate side so you can press against the car for the tests. It should have robust force but you should be able to push it in. It depends on the # of lbs it's designed for on how hard it will be to push. If it is really easy to push back, it's blown (spring probably broken). If pushes back hard, but doesn't rebound a bit slowly but immediately, it's blown (rebound sticky). If it pushes back hard but wants to release as fast as you can remove your hand, it's blown (rebound shot).

I'd start there before "shotgunning" parts. It may end up being the drive strut that's broken.

 

Thanks AZjeeper. I unhooked the helper strut and tried to test it. That thing would not push in at all. I don't know how many lbs it's designed for, but i couldn't get it to budge. I stopped trying because I gotta get my son to his practice, but i'll give it another shot after.

 

Replace it, and there's probably a 95% chance it will work perfectly. Cheap and easy. Keep hammering motorized side with the bad helper, and you'll burn it up, not cheap and easy...😎

 

Thanks. I had to order the helper strut part from Autozone. It should be in tomorrow. I'll update when it comes in.

 

OK, since the OP never returned to update the thread on if this fixed his problem or not, I'll provide info on my fix.
First off, I have a 15 Cherokee Limited having this exact issue (Liftgate starts to open then immediately closes) with a caveat, it would not close so the sequence continued until I grab the liftgate and force it past the initial foot or so...
First I tried the helper strut, removed it and tested/verified it wasn't blown. Next I purchased a replacement electrical strut (Amazon ~$105), replaced it with the same result.
I also tried removing the fuse, etc. but nothing. I suspected the Control Module at this point but since this issue started shortly after having the Recall (R27 ) done at the dealer I thought I'd have them pay for it... They said their work couldn't have caused this problem and weren't going to cover the repair (p.s. I don't believe in coincidences ) so I told them to pound sand and ordered a Control Module (around $110 or so on Amazon).
Just finished installing the control module today and the issue is resolved.

I felt compelled to respond to this thread because I went looking online everywhere for a fix to my liftgate and this thread was one of the few that talked about my exact issue, and it was very frustrating to not get to the actual resolution...

Hope this was helpful.

 

You will not have to compress the new strut to get it on. Just get someone to help hold the lift gate fully open. From there you will be able to snap the new strut on.

 

My 2019 TH/Elite did this from time to time. I have a cargo mat in the back and if it moves back toward the gate it seems to block the sensor. Now that I have velcro'd it down, no more issues.

 

Recall R27 may apply to your Cherokee.
The Power Liftgate Module is under the floorboard in the trunk someplace, need to check if has water damage.
The gas strut on the right could be worn out. The power strut on the left may have failed.
There is a Power Liftgate recalibration procedure somewhere.
There are sensors to detect if something is interfering with the trunk trying to close.
Go to a Jeep dealer and have them figure it out.

Refer to: Liftgate Issue Post #6 and all the other Posts.
Use "Search Community" above for additional Posts.

Tell us more about your Cherokee and you may get more useful answers.

 

Recall R27 may apply to your Cherokee.
The Power Liftgate Module is under the floorboard in the trunk someplace, need to check if has water damage.
The gas strut on the right could be worn out. The power strut on the left may have failed.
There is a Power Liftgate recalibration procedure somewhere.
There are sensors to detect if something is interfering with the trunk trying to close.
Go to a Jeep dealer and have them figure it out.

Refer to: Liftgate Issue Post #6 and all the other Posts.
Use "Search Community" above for additional Posts.

Tell us more about your Cherokee and you may get more useful answers.

Thank you for the info. I was really hoping it was R27 but my vehicle is a 2016 (3.2L V6). I brought it in for diagnostic the other day and was told the lift gate motor has to be replaced. The customer service agent told me the wires had corroded but the paperwork states, “Verified customer concern. Found liftgate closing immediately after opening 2 inches. Checked for codes, found stored code B188-13-LIFTGATE CONTROL CIRCUIT 1 - CIRCUIT OPEN. Removed left rear quarter panel and verified connections at module in good condition. Checked wires at pass through connector under liftgate and found 2 wires pulled out of liftgate power drive unit. Quoted replacement”.
So now it’s a $750 fix with a part that’s on back order with no stock date. To add insult to injury, they also found a leak in my rad for another $1,550 (incl. a/c evac/recharge). It was an expensive day.
Not really sure how the wires pulled out of the liftgate though… I’m not a car person by any means but that seems like something that probbbbably shouldn’t happen with normal operation.
Oh, and the rad’s on back order with no stock date, too. It’s not the best time to be a Jeep owner (or really any vehicle owner because parts shortages are sadly the norm… it must be so frustrating for the mechanics).

 

Thanks for the update. Wires shouldn't fall out of connectors.
There is a remote possibility the radiator can be repaired. I fixed the plastic end cap on my Oldsmobile radiator with JB Weld.
Dealerships don't repair anything, but a good radiator shop may be able to repair it.
Maybe a salvage yard has a radiator and whatever liftgate part you need.
Give part numbers to your local salvage yard and they can do a National search for the parts.

I bought a used Audi once as a "parts car" just to get parts. The used Audi ended up being in better condition than mine, so mine ended up being the "parts car".

 

You might have to Private Message chez202 to get his answer. Probably a new helper strut was the 'fix'.
There is a fuse in the fuse/relay panel in the engine compartment. Look under the cover and pull the fuse for the power liftgate.
That should reset the module.
Check under the trunk floor and make sure there isn't any water in there. Water can cause the modules and electrical connections to fail.
Jeeps don't have a drain like Saab 900s so if water gets in there it can't get out.
The helper strut in my 2014 TH still works so they seem to last a long time.
Prop up the lift gate and remove the helper strut and see if works ok.
It is probably really cold in Sweden right now so maybe the strut doesn't like cold weather. Can't fully extend.
Tell us about your Jeep. Do you do Eric Carlsson rally driving in the snow?

 

Too bad we never got the answer (whether replacing the strut was the fix) as my lift gate is now exhibiting the EXACT same problem. It is seasonably warm in New England, and has been very dry for over a week. Also, the problem started with no warning or strange behavior leading up to it. ...on to googling the next hit.

 

Prop the hatch fully open and then check the helper strut.
Then check the power liftgate strut.
Check for water in the trunk floor. If the PLGM gets wet it is probably damaged.
Sometimes the software gets out of sync and needs to be reset. Search this Forum for the reset answer.
Lets us know what you find.
My power lift gate still works after 9 years so I am encouraged.

 

Search this Forum for the reset answer.
Lets us know what you find.

Pulling the power lift gate fuse out for about 1 minute and then reinstalling it resets the function as long as nothing else is wrong.
Did it many times in mine and would work for a random amount of time again.

 

Will do all of the above, but not anytime soon unfortunately due to work commitments. Also, from another thread a possible culprit is a blue wire under the power strut boot. It might be awhile but will post an answer whether it gets fixed or I spend the rest of its lifetime manually opening and closing the liftgate. I might punt and see the dealer about this recall: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2015/RCRIT-15V393-6798.pdf

 

Start with the simple stuff like helper strut. That's usually the culprit 95% of the time...😎

 

Give it a little help going up, and see if the screw jack lifts it all the way, and you'll likely have your answer...😎

 

Also could be one of the pinch sensor strips that are on the automatic lift gate is worn and registering something in the track (and by extension, you should check the track to make sure there's nothing stuck or caught in the track that could be closing the pinch sensor contacts when the lift gate closes.)

They're on the lift gate itself (not the body of the vehicle) on the underside. There's one on the right and on the left. To disonnect them (not that you're going to do that but lets say for diagnostic purposes) you take off the lift gate lower trim and unplug the connection under the trim.

 

The previous Posts are about as good as it gets on this Forum.
Read through all of them and see if something seems to apply to your situation.
Re-state your exact situation and somebody may have an idea. Including exactly which vehicle you have.

 

2018 Cherokee Limited
I see a few people describing an issue with the power rear liftgate (posts #1 and 25) One of them mentions a NHTSA safety recall R27. That recall is written to cover the 2014 - 2015 model years as a fix for water intrusion. Does the water issue still exist after the factory "fix?"

Liftgate will only open or close a few inches and then reverses as if it hits an obstruction.

My 2018 seems to be having the same issue. I did try replacing the helper strut, to no avail. I tried removing and replacing the fuse to rest it. It has the same issue whether the engine is running or not.

I was wondering if anyone has had this same issue on newer model years? as if the suggested dealer fix isn't cutting it?? My dealer reports code B8188C-13, but wants it back to do more investigating / fix.

 

Ask the dealer about programming, when my issue started after they did R27 according to my dealer they had to do a programming update to it then they had to do it a second time when I brought it back in again , but still occasionally I had to pull the fuse to reset. I never had any power hatch issues until R27 was done, so it was the typical FCA situation where doing a recall makes things worse in the KL Cherokees.

 

Code B8188C-13 does not compute. All R27 did was put a shield over the circuit board in the trunk. Doesn't do any good if there is a serious water leak.
There may be a problem with the obstruction sensor(s).
Make sure you don't have water under the trunk floor board.
Find the reset procedure and see if that works. Search this Forum it is on here someplace. May be as easy as removing the correct fuse for some period of time.
Try opening the hatch with the engine OFF. Try opening the hatch with the engine running. If it opens correctly with the engine running you may have a weak battery. Get your battery tested for free somewhere, if your Jeep dealer tests it you will have to pay.

 

I found a broken grey wire under the boot at the top of the power strut. This fixed my problem where the gate would only move a couple of inches. A quick little solder fix and all good. Hope this helps

 

Here’s a pic of the problem wire

 

Thanks jfroese0132,

This was the exactly what happened to mine. I'm at 100k miles. Guess the constant opening and closing to let the Mutts in and out, wears the wire to the point of breaking.

I also soldered the grey wire. Guessing it will hold up for a while!

I have Max Care, but the dealer close to me in Southern CA, San Juan Capistrano, is so busy and so terribly slow. I can predict this is how it would go.

I would set up an appoint for a Monday. Pay ahead a diagnostic $180 fee, Drop my Jeep off Sunday Night. Call them on Thursday and they would not have started it yet. the Following week it would be ready, Tell me it's not covered. After I ask them to check again and to spell my last name correctly, they punch it in - Hey it is covered.

I really Miss the Dealership in Marshfield MA......

When it stops working again I will order this one

 

My tailgate (2015 Cherokee) would reverse after opening a few inches. Removed power strut (it unplugs under the rear compartment headliner/plastic trim that pops off).
Pop off the rubber accordion cover, Two of the wires were cut (blue & green) and two others were slightly cut but still attached (down near where they came out of the strut).
I got some new wire and soldered and heat shrunk over the repaired wires. Reinstalled the strut and works great?

 

Nice. Glad my post helped and this sounds like it’s a common issue that these cars are having. I missed seeing the break in the wires the first time and was ready to order a new power strut. While I was putting it all back together I finally noticed the broken wires poking out. There’s a big bundle of wires there and I imagine if other wires broke there would be different symptoms. So it will be the first place I look next time.

 

Note just for completeness of diagnosing this type of issue it's also important to consider the manual (non-powered) strut also. Per the Cherokee Service Manual, the powered (driver-side) strut alone does not have the force available to lift the weight of the lift gate on its own. It needs a working passenger side strut so if your wiring on the powered strut appears fine, make sure to diagnose whether the manual strut has failed (which you can do by gently providing up-force with your fingers to see if the powered strut can overcome the weight of the lift-gate and open all the way. )