don't see a videoHey, so I recently had the jeep finally give me issues (driven 50,000 miles since owning) and it was when I was slowing down, I get to the roundabout and gently accelerate forward and continue however output to the wheels stop and a miserable grinding sound comes from the front. It will go in 4wd low and basically allow power to the rear but if any “torque “ is applied towards the front, it will be grinding and no catching or self resolving. Not cv joints with it in park off the ground and pulling the tires for a slip to indicate so. Pretty hard to not be the PTU considering a suspicious amount of oil around the area of the PTU. Here’s a video, let me know what you guys think. Thank you.
Possible PTU problem
Hey, so I recently had the jeep finally give me issues (driven 50,000 miles since owning) and it was when I was slowing down, I get to the roundabout and gently accelerate forward and continue however output to the wheels stop and a miserable grinding sound comes from the front. It will go in 4wd low and basically allow power to the rear but if any “torque “ is applied towards the front, it will be grinding and no catching or self resolving. Not cv joints with it in park off the ground and pulling the tires for a slip to indicate so. Pretty hard to not be the PTU considering a suspicious amount of oil around the area of the PTU. Here’s a video, let me know what you guys think. Thank you.
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don't see a video
Pull the F10 fuse and disable the PTU, see if you still have an issue, no power to the front sounds like the recall on some of the earlier transmissions ( like mine) with possible spline issues, all Jeep did was provide a software patch for a hardware problem. what year model Cherokee?Hey, so I recently had the jeep finally give me issues (driven 50,000 miles since owning) and it was when I was slowing down, I get to the roundabout and gently accelerate forward and continue however output to the wheels stop and a miserable grinding sound comes from the front. It will go in 4wd low and basically allow power to the rear but if any “torque “ is applied towards the front, it will be grinding and no catching or self resolving. Not cv joints with it in park off the ground and pulling the tires for a slip to indicate so. Pretty hard to not be the PTU considering a suspicious amount of oil around the area of the PTU. Here’s a video, let me know what you guys think. Thank you.
It’s a 2014 TrailhawkPull the F10 fuse and disable the PTU, see if you still have an issue, no power to the front sounds like the recall on some of the earlier transmissions ( like mine) with possible spline issues, all Jeep did was provide a software patch for a hardware problem. what year model Cherokee?
Can you post a video? Also, if you're a DIY mechanic do you have any way to elevate and check the gear oil level in the PTU? I have a 2014 TH as well. You need to remove the center skid plate (which first means taking off the front skid plate. Then you unscrew the heat shield screws on the passenger side of the PTU and there's a fill plug (may be tough to take out one screw - some folks just bend the heat shield back). If you've got a leaking PTU (with possibly little/no gear oil) that could be your problem right there. Depends how bad it's gotten...
NOTE, don't of course do this unless you feel comfortable else take it to a mechanic who has a lift.
For skid plate removal instructions see attached but go in reverse (removal, not installation). The rear two screws on the center skid plate (the one covering the PTU) do not get removed. They're only loosened enough to slide the skid plate out. You'll see they're slide holes and don't need the screw fully removed.
NOTE, don't of course do this unless you feel comfortable else take it to a mechanic who has a lift.
For skid plate removal instructions see attached but go in reverse (removal, not installation). The rear two screws on the center skid plate (the one covering the PTU) do not get removed. They're only loosened enough to slide the skid plate out. You'll see they're slide holes and don't need the screw fully removed.
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Sorry, I didn't read carefully. Actually, it might be Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) W47 - spline issue. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V343-3789.pdfHey, so I recently had the jeep finally give me issues (driven 50,000 miles since owning) and it was when I was slowing down, I get to the roundabout and gently accelerate forward and continue however output to the wheels stop and a miserable grinding sound comes from the front. It will go in 4wd low and basically allow power to the rear but if any “torque “ is applied towards the front, it will be grinding and no catching or self resolving. Not cv joints with it in park off the ground and pulling the tires for a slip to indicate so. Pretty hard to not be the PTU considering a suspicious amount of oil around the area of the PTU. Here’s a video, let me know what you guys think. Thank you.
You're driving along (probably normally so just 2WD is engaged) and you accelerate and there's a grinding sound (splines on input shaft slipping). Car has had the TSB applied so the car engages the 4WD (rear wheels) to power the rear to keep the car moving. If any torque is applied to front, grinding sound happens with no catching.
Not saying it is this issue but symptoms match the problem and year (2014 TH) of Cherokee. 😢
Please post video or audio...
Sorry, I didn't read carefully. Actually, it might be Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) W47 - spline issue. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V343-3789.pdf
You're driving along (probably normally so just 2WD is engaged) and you accelerate and there's a grinding sound (splines on input shaft slipping). Car has had the TSB applied so the car engages the 4WD (rear wheels) to power the rear to keep the car moving. If any torque is applied to front, grinding sound happens with no catching.
Not saying it is this issue but symptoms match the problem and year (2014 TH) of Cherokee. 😢
Please post video or audio...
I pulled the fuse for the 4wd which upon starting, the SVC 4WD and parking hazard icon displayed on the cluster. I actually was going off my property but giving a hair more throttle set it off and disengaged input to my CV’s. This is a very temperamental situation where I’m able to drive up to 20mph but as I said, certain amount of torque will cause it to slip off again. Basically I can remove the components that this issue is causing but just really feel someone has had this. 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk 3.2LPull the F10 fuse and disable the PTU, see if you still have an issue, no power to the front sounds like the recall on some of the earlier transmissions ( like mine) with possible spline issues, all Jeep did was provide a software patch for a hardware problem. what year model Cherokee?
Sounds more and more like the condition that the w47 TSB was created for….I pulled the fuse for the 4wd which upon starting, the SVC 4WD and parking hazard icon displayed on the cluster. I actually was going off my property but giving a hair more throttle set it off and disengaged input to my CV’s. This is a very temperamental situation where I’m able to drive up to 20mph but as I said, certain amount of torque will cause it to slip off again. Basically I can remove the components that this issue is causing but just really feel someone has had this. 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk 3.2L
I’m really not sure but is this something I could do if I just need a new PTU or should I leave it to a dealer? I am crafty but only because I have no warranty on it and don’t need $1200 labor costs for something kind of simple.Sounds more and more like the condition that the w47 TSB was created for….
I’d like to add I was told I have no recalls on the Jeep. “Resolved” recalls but not outstanding.I’m really not sure but is this something I could do if I just need a new PTU or should I leave it to a dealer? I am crafty but only because I have no warranty on it and don’t need $1200 labor costs for something kind of simple.
A proper diagnosis is in order, Tranny or PTU either one not cheap, if you can find one. You will have to engage the dealer to flash the car so it recognizes the new part.I’m really not sure but is this something I could do if I just need a new PTU or should I leave it to a dealer? I am crafty but only because I have no warranty on it and don’t need $1200 labor costs for something kind of simple.
The W47 would energize the ptu to drive the rear wheels to get you off the road becuase the splines inside the Tranny in the early years have been known to strip off, loosing power to the front wheels and then it will set the parking brake to prevent the car from rolling away.
I would have no issues doing the work myself but in the end since I do not have the software to flash the car myself it would have to go to the dealer.
All I can at this point is good luck, and please keep us informed as to what becomes of this.
It will be expensive through the dealer, the part alone is expensive plus labor. However it is not a normal DIY replacement. You really need access to a lift to get under the car and feel comfortable disassembling a few pieces. Unless you consider yourself an advanced DIY guy, it's best left to a mechanic (you could use a 3rd pary)I’m really not sure but is this something I could do if I just need a new PTU or should I leave it to a dealer? I am crafty but only because I have no warranty on it and don’t need $1200 labor costs for something kind of simple.
This is the way it should be. You have no open (outstanding) recalls because your ECU has been flashed (updated) with the "fix" to engage the rear wheels if it senses the splines not engaging. Note, the "fix" is just to keep you safely moving or, if in park, engages the parking brake so the car doesn't roll away. It doesn't fix the actual problem (of bad machining of relative movement of the input splines which can cause it to wear down over time)I’d like to add I was told I have no recalls on the Jeep. “Resolved” recalls but not outstanding.
Essentially;
- If your engine is above idle
- AND your trans is in a forward or reverse gear, your car can calculate the speed it should be going.
- If the wheel speed sensors do not detect the car moving at that speed (or at all) the drive train control module (DTCM) will assume the splines have slipped and commands the PTU to send the power to the rear wheels to keep the car moving.
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