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Discussion Starter #1
Nearly every Cherokee we test drove had this gross-looking push button starter that appeared as though you were going to contract an STD if you didn't wear two layers of nitrile gloves...the 15 Limited we purchased was otherwise no different. Install should take the average Joe about 2 hours start to finish working slowly.

I found no How-To's available online and really only one thread here:
http://jeepcherokeeclub.com/4-2014-jeep-cherokee-general-discussion/191034-replace-2014-cherokee-starter-switch-4.html

Which claims later Cherokees had an updated switch and are not prone to this problem, the switch would need to be flashed by the dealer, and it is a 3 year/36000 mile warranty part. I'm outside the 3 year. The claim that the car will not start and will need to be towed to the dealer because it will not communicate with the BCM over the CANBUS system I found difficult to believe. It is simply untrue, and can be tested by unplugging the existing one and testing the new one as step 1 (the harness is long enough to reach near the brake pedal for a test, you'll need a long arm and some patience to reach up there and get to the connector.

I have a picture of the part number I used as recommended by Tasca Ford (I have been doing all my dealer parts through them since I bought my Cobra). Comparing the two side by side there are some differences. I will link pics from my phone in a moment, but the basic steps are:

1. seat all the way back, reclined, steering wheel pulled all the way out and all the way up, left unlocked. remove the half moon shaped interior panel that covers the driver side of the dash only accessible with the driver door open. you will need to remove the small A pillar cover (black, 12") that is in the way of this panel first.
2. remove the lower driver side dash panel (the one with the headlight switch on it). two 8mm or phillips screws revealed by the covers you removed in step 1, then two push pins from the underside. disconnect 3 connectors.
3. separate the upper and lower clamshells from the steering column. 2 t10 screws and 2 t20 screws from the under side. separate the lower clamshell from the leather column surround. remove the gauge cluster surround, 3 t20 screws one on each side and one in the center going upward beneath a small cosmetic cover (pry it off gently).
4. it's still a blind and hard reach, but you can now have enough room to remove the switch. 3 t20 screws hold the white bracket to the dash...don't drop them, it's a bitch fishing them out of the center console. once you pull the switch out, remove the 3 screws (5.5mm) that hold it to the white bracket.
5. install is the reverse. about the only tricky part is removing and reinstalling the lower clamshell/leather column surround gently. the column surround never comes off, just gets everything unclipped and loosened to be able to move it around to give you hands room. If your 8mm socket is a magnetic swivel socket, your life is a lot easier.
 

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Pictures as promised. Today my temporary registration came through to allow my wife to put her old vanity plates on the “new” Jeep.
 

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Mine is starting to get crusty as well. The switch in my 2014 Journey Crossroad never did this. They do have different P/Ns.
 

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If you can get it covered by the dealer I’d suggest at least calling them to see...this is the kind of interior easy to get stuff dirty easy to break tabs job that’s a PITA for the DIYer, especially working blind and needing a few speciality tools (even as a tech my standard torx goes down to T15 I only had smaller from a specialty project years ago).

A line tech doing this flat rate probably doesn’t remove the clamshells and cranks this out in 0.5-0.8 but I did it for extra hand space. Not a terrible job if the dealer tells you to pound sand like they told me.
 

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Hey Guys,

Just had the same problem. 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. Same pealing and stuck, push ignition button.

In my case, it actually kept the button from being pressed. I had to dig the button loose to get it to start and get it home.

95PGTTech, these instructions are great. Worked like a champ.

I'll just add, you need to take the center nav-console frame out and pull the left side air vent. It allows you both better visibility, and to get hands in from both sides.

Thanks a bunch,

Cheers,

E!
 

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Pictures as promised. Today my temporary registration came through to allow my wife to put her old vanity plates on the “new” Jeep.
How did you manage to get the middle console out with air in that area can't seem to get my hands in there to pry open
 

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Wow! - huge thankyou for this info - I was about to grab a replacement button from an SRT but this guide indicates that wont fit!
 

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Thank you for the pic and info I have a 2015 jeep Cherokee latitude and my start-stop button was I took my button and housing mechanism off cleaned it when put back together back in the housing it wouldn't work but when taken apart there was nothing wrong with it just rings and everything still work so I filed down for little notches that slide in on the button part managed to put it all back together works perfect I was originally going to buy a new button and housing for it when to pick it up and O'Reilly's had no clue what I was talking about has no record of me ordering the part nothing so I was frustrated and irritated and just said screw it and decided to take it all apart see what I could do with it and it worked so thank you
 
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