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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new here, my basic Google-fu has been useless. My 2014 Cherokee latitude 4cylinder just threw this code. I cleared it. It came back.

I've done plenty of car work, so I don't mind getting my hands dirty... But when it comes to electrical issues, well, it is usually beyond me.

Has anyone had this code? Recommendations?
 

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Hi there, welcome to JCC :)

Yikes Ok. All I find is what the code means : CYLINDER 1 OIL SUPPLY SOLENOID VALVE SWITCH ON TIME OUT OF RANGE .

So... haven't seen this on the forum before. I find threads with Google, mostly for Dodge Darts and Fiat 500s, but nothing that really helps (me) understand what it is, exactly... Perhaps others have an idea...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm confused... I don't understand what the "brick" is they keep referring to.
 

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Possible Causes​
ENGINE OIL LEVEL LOW
ENGINE OIL AERATED OR CONTAMINATED
INCORRECT ENGINE OIL FILTER
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE DUE TO A MECHANICAL FAILURE IN THE OILING SYSTEM
VVA ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting. I just did an oil change on Saturday. I use Mobil 1 synthetic.
 

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I'm confused... I don't understand what the "brick" is they keep referring to.
I had to look this up as well :
“Sitting directly above the intake valves on the cylinder head is the Multi-Air actuator, often called the “brick”. A look at the camshaft reveals there are three lobes per cylinder, two identical exhaust lobes and a single intake lobe that operates a follower which moves a piston in and out of a bore in the Multi-Air actuator – this is the high pressure oil pump. The stroking movement of this piston pressurizes engine oil that will be directed to a hydraulic piston, which will open the intake valve.”
Source : Re-establishing Oil Flow in Multi-Air “brick” after Long-Term Storage
 

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In the morning I'll clear the code and take it for quick drive and check the oil level.



Interesting. It sounds like an unholy union of a cam shaft and oil pump. This is one of the few days I will ever say that I miss my cavalier...
Cavalier ? Oh... Z24 ?? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cavalier ? Oh... Z24 ?? ;)
Nope, had a 2003 cavalier which got me into car modding. I even tested out cams for a few companies. With all the swapping, I could replace the cams and fix the timing in 4 hours. But that was a long time ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
First off, thank you, everyone for your information. It led me in the right direction. I found this video:
on how to take it out. Yet some of the other things I've read indicate that to replace it, you need a special tool to time it. Which I'm not sure about. They take under 30 minutes in the video to disassemble the engine, which seems promising. But...
2014 Jeep Cherokee Parts - ACTUATOR - 5047457AE $1300
2014 Jeep Cherokee Parts - ACTUATOR - 5047980AD $700
(not sure which is needed)

Guess I'll call the dealership tomorrow.

Opinion time (assuming it is the brick):
Is it worth replacing just the brick? My jeep has only 66k miles.

With the cost of the brick (assuming the $1300 one), wouldn't it be almost easier and cost effective to just do an engine swap?
Mopar lists the long block (what I would need) at $3300
Or do I trade it in and let someone else deal with it?

The only time I've ever paid someone to work on my car is when I had a body work done, because that's beyond my skills. And that is a skill. So whichever option I go with, replace the part or the engine, I would be doing it myself.
 

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The part that gets my attention is the recent oil change. Are you using 0W 20? What brand filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The part that gets my attention is the recent oil change. Are you using 0W 20? What brand filter?
Fram filter, same type i have used since the first oil change since I bought the car new. 0w 20, mobil 1 synthetic.
 

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You did not mention any drivability issues. Any Multi Air faults should cause some pretty severe symptoms. When the Actuator craps out they will not even start. Might give it some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You did not mention any drivability issues. Any Multi Air faults should cause some pretty severe symptoms. When the Actuator craps out they will not even start. Might give it some time.
No issues. At least none I notice. I drive to and from work, a 20 minute drive, top speed 55mph. Two miles of the trip is dirt road.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cleared the code, went for a quick drive. Checked the oil and the level is good. Yet for some reason I checked the code, and while the light is off the reader is still pulling up the code and listing it as permanent.

Called the dealership, they want $120 just to tell me what is wrong.

Should I run half a can of seafoam in my oil for about a week (only about 100 miles) and do another oil change along with disconnecting the battery to fully clear and reset the system?
 

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I’ve been reading this thread trying to keep up. From an outside view the thing that stands out is the recent oil change. Mobil 1 is high quality (I use it too in all my cars) and Fram is a good filter. That being said, the first thing I would try is change the filter. Maybe something is wrong with it, you never know. While your down there, check for a loose connector,broken wire, etc. it just seems awful coincidental that you changed the oil and then started having issues. Recheck the simple stuff and go from there......good luck!


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