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Why do people put up with this kind of crap from a dealer? They changed the oil, right? I’d be “conversing” with the GM until they fixed it for free....
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Oil Filter Housing leak...
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34 Posts
Update, the selling dealer has fallen on to some extremely hard times, his wife passed away and he has been hospitalized with cancer and now a heart attack.
I had my Jeep scheduled to be repaired when the dealer‘s wife passed on and he closed for a while. Add the pandemic to the mix and I was basically out of luck.
Took my Jeep to my trusted repair shop for its annual state inspection, it failed due to the oil leak.
$765 dollars later the leak has been fixed. New oil, new filter and new coolant as the intake had to be removed to change the oil cooler/filter housing.
While there I had them program a new key fob, was supposed to be a fairly easy job.
What really burned my backside was the hoops my shop had to jump through I order to get the codes from the dealer I order to finish the fob programming.
2 days of calls and emails and forms later my shop was able to do the job.
6 months ago, as he tells me, it would take a single 5 minute call to the dealer. Now it is an act of Congress to do this.
$100 later and all is well. The dealer had quoted me $297 for a fob and programming.
-BobC
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2 Posts
2014 3,2-V6 73,000 KM BOUGHT WITH 33,000KM 2017 yes oil filter housing cracked. Three Jeep dealers called and NO warranty coverage. Yes they know there is a problem and that is why they changed the part number. I always get my oil change at a local garage. They said I should change the spk plugs as they need the manifold removed. doing the oil hsg you have to remove the manifold. Recommended spk plug change is 160,000 km, With my 10,000 km a year that is 8 years use, HA! they wanted $2,400 to do both .. I said WHAT? Hey no way no to spk plug change. Then quoted $1015.00 to do housing. Found a Jeep dealer will do for the oil hsg only for $876.00. I said what about the skp plugs and he said they are fine. Jeep dealer told me at times some of the jobber filters are not quite right in dimensions adding to the cracked housing issue . So be it I will go to the dealer from now on. Shitty deal for so many and Chrysler dropped the ball on this one. Ask and shop around and I find in many cases the Auth car dealers give better rate. I did at one time work for one for 5 years. Take care and thank you for this forum. Very educational first hand
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2,299 Posts
Replace the filter housing and spark plugs. Use a torque wrench when installing a the cap on the filter.
Put a paint mark on the filter cap and housing so you no when they are lined up correctly. (to the correct torque)
Supposedly the new housing is of an improved design.
Put a paint mark on the filter cap and housing so you no when they are lined up correctly. (to the correct torque)
Supposedly the new housing is of an improved design.
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3 Posts
Well put me in the club. 2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 3.2L, 119,9-- (don't remember exact miles 2 weeks ago lol) and had the oil filter housing replaced. $725. Did anyone have issues with their heat afterwards? I'm wondering if I'm having a thermostat or radiator issue now. I won't be going back to this shop as I'm going to take it to a dealer to have them check over the work this shop just did seeing that I can't trust what was written on paperwork to be the truth. Filled fluids, right, don't think so! Loved going to my local Merlin shop until this last time.
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880 Posts
I had a similar situation, although the circumstances were different. At 98k miles, I had my oil filter housing replaced due to a crack (covered under warranty). At around 110k miles, I had a coolant leak right where the main coolant hose was. I opted to take it to my local mechanic (out of warranty, don't go to dealer unless you're getting a quote, or something looked over), and had the coolant flushed, and replaced the thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner, idler pulleys, cross over pipe, etc; a lot of those "while you're there" items.
Since you have 119k miles on it, you might want to consider those kinds of items if not done so already. Unfortunately, due to the design of the 3.2 Penastar, in order to replace the serpentine belt, you MUST remove the main coolant hose. What I'm saying is, if you do need a new thermstat, then all those other items make a compelling case to replace. It's not the cheapest solution due to the labor involved, but it will give you a piece of mind for the next 100k miles.
Good luck!
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237 Posts
New thermostat housing is a simple couple bolts quick repair vs the water pump and crossover pipe which much more labor is involved. Agreed they can be done while doing thermostat but nowadays shops charge so much for any labor. I have seen oem water pumps go over 200k without leaking/failure. Aftermarket ones which most shops choose to use seem to go after only 60k miles or so. I will be waiting on my 14 v6 until the mopar one wears out. It might outlast the dang pentastar engine with it's appetite for roller bearings and oil coolers LoL.
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3 Posts
Thanks for replying. I do have to take it for the dingbat transmission recall so maybe I can just have the dealer do an inspection and see what they recommend. Considering the shop I just had it at said the rad hoses were leaking on the inspection sheet they did but told me to my face there were no leaks afterward but yet I check fluid levels a few days later and notice the coolant reservoir is quite low they’ve left me seeking out a new mechanic.
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1,432 Posts
Hi @Blackwing2014,
Sorry to hear that! If you're not satisfied with your current dealer's services, we suggest getting a 2nd opinion from another dealer nearby. You can search according to location and services needed by heading over to Find a Jeep® Dealership Near You | Jeep® . Feel free to follow up with our team if you decide to work with another dealer nearby and would like additional support. Thanks!
Courtney
Jeep Cares
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2 Posts
Hey all, just wanted to post my 2 cents in here since I JUST got my Jeep back from the dealership for the filter housing replacement, finessed it to a point that I was able to save some money even at the dealer. Mine is a 2014 Cherokee Limited 4x4 AD1 with the 3.2, and sure enough all signs pointed to the oil filter housing. Granted i consider myself somewhat lucky since I experienced this at 116,000 miles whereas most I’m seeing are happening around the 45-80k mile mark if not more than once. Lift off your engine cover and shine some sort of pen light down by the side of the oil filter tube, if you see pooling oil in down by the housing that’s a pretty good indicator, that or if you have large amounts of oil under the car in multiple spots rather than just one as if the oil pan or screw seal was leaking. Also that housing has the oil cooler, five or so gaskets underneath, and a few sensors on it as well. So if your CEL comes on as mine did and throws the code PO6DD for the oil pump, it‘s killing a few birds with the same stone by replacing the entire filter housing adapter.
So first things first, FCA designed that filter housing very poorly being composed of plastic. Doesn't really matter the type of plastic, nonetheless its plastic. It’s either going to wear down and warp over time from temp fluctuations by running your car or be broken by some shop junkie over-torquing the filter cap during an oil change (hence why you do it yourself and tighten the cap to spec). Original part number was 68105583AA, to be replaced with the same part number however ending in AF. Beyond frustrating that FCA wouldn’t warranty or recall the part knowing (pardon my French) damn well that that part was susceptible to failure and changed it in models from 2015 and moving forward; especially since that much oil leaking down the engine and onto multiple mechanical components to an extent can cause a fire hazard. Not only that, but the day before i took it to the dealership I checked my oil just to see the progression of oil loss, and not a single drop even registered on my dipstick on the first pull!! About gave me a heart attack so it went straight to the dealership.
Clearly you can tell my frustration, but rant over. Here’s how i was able to save a few bucks. I live in a pretty big metropolitan area with multiple CDJR dealerships; so before you do anything shop around. Most likely the dealerships are going to tell you they need to diagnose it first, but if you’re 100% certain like I was then just ask them what their labor rate is and how long they predict it taking. It’s perfectly acceptable to request the service advisor you’re speaking with to ask a mechanic how long on average it takes for the job as I did. Also, try to find a dealership that has the option to order the parts from their own dealership to be readily available for will call at their parts department, this alone saved me about $200. I honestly would’ve done the work myself, but with removing the upper and lower manifolds and risking something falling inside the cylinders, I’d rather that type of work be warrantied by someone in case it decides to blow up on me later. I’ll list all the parts and their respective part numbers, and it’ll behoove you to grab six quarts of oil from a department store or somewhere rather than paying for the dealerships inflated cost. No need in picking up the oil filter as an OEM Mopar filter will come with the new housing adapter.
Everything you’ll need:
Mopar Oil Filter Housing/Cooling Adapter: 68105583AF (1)
Plenum Intake Gaskets: 05184562AC (6)
Lower Intake Gaskets: 05814331AC (6)
50/50 Mopar Coolant: 68163849AB (1)
6 Quarts SAE 5W-20 (or whatever your vehicle requires)
A few notes for the service:
1. While it was at the dealer they tried to charge me for an oil change service when that’s already part of the process required to replace the filter housing, so don’t let them take advantage of you. And like i mentioned before, take your own fully synthetic oil and leave it in the car and tell them to use it.
2. They contacted me the day before I picked it up to tell me that the entire engine timing cover needed to be resealed (after they already reassembled everything from the previous part) and quoted the part at about $74 but labor at about $1,200!!! I would understand if they wanted to go at it while it was already torn apart for the first repair, but that just made me mad. He sent me a picture of some residual oil on the timing cover, which most likely is from the original leaking problem and the timing belt slinging oil all over the place. Pick up some brake cleaner or simple green and give the engine bay a good spray and gentle wash. Be careful to avoid any important electrical areas and don’t pressure wash too strongly to avoid getting water where it doesn’t need to be. Been parking in the garage with cardboard under the car and so far not a single problem.
3. They may inform you that because of the oil problem causing strain on the engine that theres sludge in the engine. Rather than paying them an astronomical amount to do an engine flush or whatever they convince you to do, simply changing your oil more frequently a few times at about 5,000 miles per ought to expel most of that sludge. You can cover your oil draining pan with some sort of cloth and you’ll see all the remnants left behind after the oil drains through.
Sorry for the terribly long post! Wanted to be as informative as possible since I just noticed someone posted a few hours ago. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions.
So first things first, FCA designed that filter housing very poorly being composed of plastic. Doesn't really matter the type of plastic, nonetheless its plastic. It’s either going to wear down and warp over time from temp fluctuations by running your car or be broken by some shop junkie over-torquing the filter cap during an oil change (hence why you do it yourself and tighten the cap to spec). Original part number was 68105583AA, to be replaced with the same part number however ending in AF. Beyond frustrating that FCA wouldn’t warranty or recall the part knowing (pardon my French) damn well that that part was susceptible to failure and changed it in models from 2015 and moving forward; especially since that much oil leaking down the engine and onto multiple mechanical components to an extent can cause a fire hazard. Not only that, but the day before i took it to the dealership I checked my oil just to see the progression of oil loss, and not a single drop even registered on my dipstick on the first pull!! About gave me a heart attack so it went straight to the dealership.
Clearly you can tell my frustration, but rant over. Here’s how i was able to save a few bucks. I live in a pretty big metropolitan area with multiple CDJR dealerships; so before you do anything shop around. Most likely the dealerships are going to tell you they need to diagnose it first, but if you’re 100% certain like I was then just ask them what their labor rate is and how long they predict it taking. It’s perfectly acceptable to request the service advisor you’re speaking with to ask a mechanic how long on average it takes for the job as I did. Also, try to find a dealership that has the option to order the parts from their own dealership to be readily available for will call at their parts department, this alone saved me about $200. I honestly would’ve done the work myself, but with removing the upper and lower manifolds and risking something falling inside the cylinders, I’d rather that type of work be warrantied by someone in case it decides to blow up on me later. I’ll list all the parts and their respective part numbers, and it’ll behoove you to grab six quarts of oil from a department store or somewhere rather than paying for the dealerships inflated cost. No need in picking up the oil filter as an OEM Mopar filter will come with the new housing adapter.
Everything you’ll need:
Mopar Oil Filter Housing/Cooling Adapter: 68105583AF (1)
Plenum Intake Gaskets: 05184562AC (6)
Lower Intake Gaskets: 05814331AC (6)
50/50 Mopar Coolant: 68163849AB (1)
6 Quarts SAE 5W-20 (or whatever your vehicle requires)
A few notes for the service:
1. While it was at the dealer they tried to charge me for an oil change service when that’s already part of the process required to replace the filter housing, so don’t let them take advantage of you. And like i mentioned before, take your own fully synthetic oil and leave it in the car and tell them to use it.
2. They contacted me the day before I picked it up to tell me that the entire engine timing cover needed to be resealed (after they already reassembled everything from the previous part) and quoted the part at about $74 but labor at about $1,200!!! I would understand if they wanted to go at it while it was already torn apart for the first repair, but that just made me mad. He sent me a picture of some residual oil on the timing cover, which most likely is from the original leaking problem and the timing belt slinging oil all over the place. Pick up some brake cleaner or simple green and give the engine bay a good spray and gentle wash. Be careful to avoid any important electrical areas and don’t pressure wash too strongly to avoid getting water where it doesn’t need to be. Been parking in the garage with cardboard under the car and so far not a single problem.
3. They may inform you that because of the oil problem causing strain on the engine that theres sludge in the engine. Rather than paying them an astronomical amount to do an engine flush or whatever they convince you to do, simply changing your oil more frequently a few times at about 5,000 miles per ought to expel most of that sludge. You can cover your oil draining pan with some sort of cloth and you’ll see all the remnants left behind after the oil drains through.
Sorry for the terribly long post! Wanted to be as informative as possible since I just noticed someone posted a few hours ago. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions.
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