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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Took the vehicle in for serp belt change and coolant flush (over 100,xxx miles) ... according to the dealer, the oil cooler is leaking.. he gave me a pic but I need to look closer for myself... plus the price quote to repair (along with spark plug change) was $1547.00...but definitely some minor drippage and crud in that area..
We've not seen any oil pooling leaks in our driveway, even after extended parking periods (thanks CV19)..
Anyone ever attempted to replace the part and what is the overall aggravation quotient to do the same?
What are the chances it's just the hose connections that need to be replaced?
I'm tempted to just monitor the situation since the leakage is minimal.. as good a vehicle as this has been to us, it will more than likely be replaced by year's end..
Thoughts?
 

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Wow for that price if you can turn a wrench and have a torque wrench and basic socket set do the plugs and oil cooler yourself. They do fail quite often you are lucky you got as much mileage as you did. Mine both failed after 50k miles. They are plastic and rubber seals and warp and crack easily. Even if you do your own oil changes and are careful to not over torque the cap.

To replace oil cooler both upper and lower intake must come off. You will need both upper and lower intake gaskets (must be replaced when removed) and your new oil cooler and spark plugs if your changing those (highly recommend) since you have it apart already. Takes 2-3 hours on average. Not hard just lots of bolts and a few wire connections. Make sure to follow torque specs since plastic parts and they will crack or strip if overtightened. You will need to drain a bit of coolant from the radiator to avoid it pooling when you remove oil cooler. Since coolant runs through it as well. Good luck let us know how it goes.
 

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Wow for that price if you can turn a wrench and have a torque wrench and basic socket set do the plugs and oil cooler yourself. They do fail quite often you are lucky you got as much mileage as you did. Mine both failed after 50k miles. They are plastic and rubber seals and warp and crack easily. Even if you do your own oil changes and are careful to not over torque the cap.

To replace oil cooler both upper and lower intake must come off. You will need both upper and lower intake gaskets (must be replaced when removed) and your new oil cooler and spark plugs if your changing those (highly recommend) since you have it apart already. Takes 2-3 hours on average. Not hard just lots of bolts and a few wire connections. Make sure to follow torque specs since plastic parts and they will crack or strip if overtightened. You will need to drain a bit of coolant from the radiator to avoid it pooling when you remove oil cooler. Since coolant runs through it as well. Good luck let us know how it goes.
I thought the oil coolers for the Pentys were on backorder, and not available at the moment???😎
 

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So are the oil coolers for the 3.2L and 2.4L (mine) really expected to fail at or around 50K miles?

I will be at 40K in a week (trip north), so I'm paying more attention to things 'coming of age' so to speak.
 

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So are the oil coolers for the 3.2L and 2.4L (mine) really expected to fail at or around 50K miles?

I will be at 40K in a week (trip north), so I'm paying more attention to things 'coming of age' so to speak.
I don't know about the 2.4, but the 3.2's are not the greatest design. Is yours plastic too???😎
 

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Job is slightly frustrating, but really not that bad.

Like the others had said, pay attention to torque specs and tightening pattern on the oil cooler and manifolds.

Make sure you have a small pick set to help unclip the injector harnesses. I broke one while I was in there, but it has not become a problem, and I did this a good 10-15k miles ago.

I found a mopar replacement oil cooler/ filter housing and the intake gaskets on amazon after all of the local dealers said they were waiting on backorders and could not give me a timeframe. 2 day shipping and a few hours in the garage tickling the KL

...now I just have to start collecting cooling system parts! Yay!
 

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Year's end isn't too far away. Why not just get something else sooner than later.
$1547 should make a good down payment on something.
In the meantime carry extra oil and check the level often.
 

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So are the oil coolers for the 3.2L and 2.4L (mine) really expected to fail at or around 50K miles?

I will be at 40K in a week (trip north), so I'm paying more attention to things 'coming of age' so to speak.
The oil coolers are not the same between v6 and I4.

Dont really know anything about the 2.4, but I know it does not have a "V" in the block in which to bury a plastic oil cooler/filter housing that uses rubber o-rings to seal.. And obviously this thing carries both engine oil AND coolant, which are fairly important for the operation of the vehicle.

These engineers are kinda dicks

@sounbwoy Peak through the oil filter access cover with a flashlight every so often to observe oil or coolant pooling in the V of the block. My KL was just over a quart low by the time oil finally poured over and out of the V and onto the floor.

I would keep an eye on fluid levels as well. Just make sure to give the 3.2 a full 15 mins after shutoff before checking the oil level. Otherwise you will not get a proper reading
 

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Peak through the oil filter access cover with a flashlight every so often to observe oil or coolant pooling in the V of the block. My KL was just over a quart low by the time oil finally poured over and out of the V and onto the floor.
Just curious, you didn't notice an oil smell as the oil was pooling up in that area?
 

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Oh there was a smell. Still is! But I waited until there was a little puddle in the garage to locate the source of the leak. Imagine my surprise when I saw how much more oil there was waiting on the top side of the motor. Wife said she had noticed the smell, but assumed it was other (older, crappier) cars.

I dont think I'll ever be rid of the hot oil smell with all the places it got to. I should really just tear off the fuzzy splash guard under the motor/trans, but I figure it'll get torn off "naturally" some day out on the trail.

These days it is the smell of hot coolant... Must be the same old jalopy following us around everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The oil coolers are not the same between v6 and I4.

Dont really know anything about the 2.4, but I know it does not have a "V" in the block in which to bury a plastic oil cooler/filter housing that uses rubber o-rings to seal.. And obviously this thing carries both engine oil AND coolant, which are fairly important for the operation of the vehicle.

These engineers are kinda dicks

@sounbwoy Peak through the oil filter access cover with a flashlight every so often to observe oil or coolant pooling in the V of the block. My KL was just over a quart low by the time oil finally poured over and out of the V and onto the floor.

I would keep an eye on fluid levels as well. Just make sure to give the 3.2 a full 15 mins after shutoff before checking the oil level. Otherwise you will not get a proper reading
Thank You for the tip!
 

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IMO: The oil cooler is not so much a crappy design as its vulnerable to overtightening.
it seals with an o ring but everyone seems to think "gud-n-tight" is better.

First thing I did on my 2017 was mark the housing so I wouldnt overtighten it.
 

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Its still a crappy design. I do all my oil changes and I am still on my second cooler. Mine is marked as well to avoid any chance of over tightening it. It seems the o rings on the bottom that seal it between the cooler and the block are just as suspect to leaking as the plastic is. Why they didn't use a metal design with a true gasket designed for high heat like Toyota and GM does is beyond me.
 

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Maybe I have missed this while reading threads on this subject, but has this part been modified in the newer Cherokees, or is it the same crappy design?
 

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Maybe I have missed this while reading threads on this subject, but has this part been modified in the newer Cherokees, or is it the same crappy design?
Same crappy I think...😎
 

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There are newer part numbers but still the same failure points as before. I believe they are up to revision 10 by now! The o rings might be a bit better material but they still leak and fail from what I have seen. Until an aftermarket like Dorman makes something to solve all the plastic OEM ones issues. Which I hope is sooner than later. I am sure there would be a huge market for a all metal design even if it cost more for the aftermarket I would pay it to avoid the hassle and worry of the plastic one failing when on a long road trip etc.
 

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The 2.4L oil cooler is up front just back from the bumper and it appears to be plastic also. There is fairly easy access with space by the first skid plate.

I've only had the dealer perform oil changes and mainly because I buy the 3 change dealer package for $150 and it's the full synthetic. So far, I've been lucky about the cooler.
 
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