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I have my 2015 Trailhawk setup for flat towing behind a motor home. As usual I did my pre-trip check about 2 weeks before we planned the first of a few trips for the summer. During that test run, while going through the process to put it into neutral for flat towing, the shift would not go through. While pressing the little N button it would eventually time out instead of performing the shift, and one of two messages would show up. Either "the shift could not be performed, try again" or "the shift was canceled" would show up. No error codes, no flashing service lights. I disconnected and took it for a drive, trying all the dial modes I could without 4low, with each working as expected. I then tried to put it in 4 low buy putting it in neutral and pressing the 4low button. Same thing, one of the two messages and no shift.

My 3 year bumper to bumper expired in April but there is only about 26000 miles on it. Took it to the dealership and initially they acted like I didn't know how to work it. Showed them what happened (half expecting it to work flawlessly) and the adviser and tech both appeared baffled. That was on a Monday. By the end of the day they were settling on the shift selector switch being bad, but were working with Chrysler techs to be sure. By the end of Tuesday they decided that it was my battery, since it failed a test. $220 for a "special" battery this car apparently has and we were back to where we started. So, another full day of waiting while they spoke with the engineers. Finally they decided to replace the rear differential under the power train warranty. Late Friday night I got the call that it still isn't fixed and the 4low issue remains. They told me they aren't going to start working on it again until this next Tuesday when they do a review of their testing so far.

Had nothing but problems with this since we got it. Transmission went into limp mode at 4k miles and the throttle body had to be replaced. Had new software installed several times and it still shifts weird and rough. Had the rear liftgate fail and it wouldn't open, close or latch and was just flopping back there. Last year one of the axle seals went bad and was found by the same dealer during an oil change. And yet with all of this, I still love the platform and what it can do when it is working.

We are turned off to this one now and just want it fixed so we can trade it in. I have to have something that can be flat towed, and we are seriously considering moving to a Wrangler, but I wonder if going to a 2019 Trailhawk Elite would be an option to consider. Is there anyone that had a junk 14 or 15 that trusted it enough to go with a new one and is happy? I struggle with having to reset another rig up to tow though, and wonder if maybe once they get this fixed its worth keeping it.

I will update again when I know what the next round of testing finds...
 

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It may/will likely take them a few more rounds to get to it, but they'll eventually conclude that your PTU and actuator needs replacement.

It'll then take a few weeks getting the parts, and then a couple of days to install and test it.

In 3-4 weeks you'll have it back and it'll work fine. The repair is covered on the 5yr/100k power train warranty.

I'm willing to bet a nice bottle of something this it how it'll play out.

In the meantime, don't be suckered into accepting paying for any other repairs or parts. They may (theoretically...) be legitimate, but they aren't the cause of this problem.

The shop at my local Jeep dealer were baffeled by this exact behavior on my '14 TH too. But luckily for me they were/are competent enough that they immediately engaged FCA and didn't suggest even once to replace any parts I'd have to pay for.

Hopefully the new improved version of the PTU and software that I've now got, and you'll be getting as soon as the techs are forced to conclude the inevitable, has all the flaws and weaknesses - described at length in other threads and around the internet - fixed. Fingers crossed...
 

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I have my 2015 Trailhawk setup for flat towing behind a motor home. As usual I did my pre-trip check about 2 weeks before we planned the first of a few trips for the summer. During that test run, while going through the process to put it into neutral for flat towing, the shift would not go through. While pressing the little N button it would eventually time out instead of performing the shift, and one of two messages would show up. Either "the shift could not be performed, try again" or "the shift was canceled" would show up. No error codes, no flashing service lights. I disconnected and took it for a drive, trying all the dial modes I could without 4low, with each working as expected. I then tried to put it in 4 low buy putting it in neutral and pressing the 4low button. Same thing, one of the two messages and no shift.

My 3 year bumper to bumper expired in April but there is only about 26000 miles on it. Took it to the dealership and initially they acted like I didn't know how to work it. Showed them what happened (half expecting it to work flawlessly) and the adviser and tech both appeared baffled. That was on a Monday. By the end of the day they were settling on the shift selector switch being bad, but were working with Chrysler techs to be sure. By the end of Tuesday they decided that it was my battery, since it failed a test. $220 for a "special" battery this car apparently has and we were back to where we started. So, another full day of waiting while they spoke with the engineers. Finally they decided to replace the rear differential under the power train warranty. Late Friday night I got the call that it still isn't fixed and the 4low issue remains. They told me they aren't going to start working on it again until this next Tuesday when they do a review of their testing so far.

Had nothing but problems with this since we got it. Transmission went into limp mode at 4k miles and the throttle body had to be replaced. Had new software installed several times and it still shifts weird and rough. Had the rear liftgate fail and it wouldn't open, close or latch and was just flopping back there. Last year one of the axle seals went bad and was found by the same dealer during an oil change. And yet with all of this, I still love the platform and what it can do when it is working.

We are turned off to this one now and just want it fixed so we can trade it in. I have to have something that can be flat towed, and we are seriously considering moving to a Wrangler, but I wonder if going to a 2019 Trailhawk Elite would be an option to consider. Is there anyone that had a junk 14 or 15 that trusted it enough to go with a new one and is happy? I struggle with having to reset another rig up to tow though, and wonder if maybe once they get this fixed its worth keeping it.

I will update again when I know what the next round of testing finds...
Hello Baxter2791,

We're sorry to hear you're having such a tough time with this. Has a case been started on the customer care side? Send me a direct message with your VIN if not as I'd be glad to escalate this for further handling.

Jasmine
Jeep Social Care Specialist
 

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My 14 TH has been doing the same thing except I dont flat tow so I have not tested to see if it will go into neutral but everything works great aside from not being able to go into 4 low anymore. I bought this jeep with 70k miles and hail damaged. The dealer wanted more money than I had spent for the entire vehicle to replace the rear PTU because they don't fully know what the problem is. It's been really frustrating
 

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I vote for Post #2 above. Maybe you could PM KL14 and see if he has any updated thoughts on the subject.
It makes sense to me that a bad PTU would likely be the problem.
After 7 years of this there should be a Tech that can use a WiTech to identify the problem that is preventing 4WD operation.
My mechanic replaced a perfectly good wheel speed sensor, after a serious discussion I convinced him to use his WiTech to find the real problem.
He did and found I had a cracked tone ring. Moral of the story: Use the tools and knowledge you were given.
Contact @JeepCares, certainly FCA has this figured out by know.
I have a 2014 V6 TH so if there is something going on here I want to know about it.
Refer to this Post for most of the TSBs and Recalls for your Jeep: List of up to date TSB
Especially Posts 10 and 22.
Refer to this Post: Pull 4x4/PTU Fuse = FWD Cherokee + Possible Fuel Economy...
If F10 in the PDC is open 4WD will not work, could it be this simple???
 

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I vote for Post #2 above. Maybe you could PM KL14 and see if he has any updated thoughts on the subject.
It makes sense to me that a bad PTU would likely be the problem.
After 7 years of this there should be a Tech that can use a WiTech to identify the problem that is preventing 4WD operation.
My mechanic replaced a perfectly good wheel speed sensor, after a serious discussion I convinced him to use his WiTech to find the real problem.
He did and found I had a cracked tone ring. Moral of the story: Use the tools and knowledge you were given.
Contact JeepCares, certainly FCA has this figured out by know.
I have a 2014 V6 TH so if there is something going on here I want to know about it.
Refer to this Post for most of the TSBs and Recalls for your Jeep: List of up to date TSB
Especially Posts 10 and 22.
Just a reminder.. when you tag a forum member (or want to help out a new member find them), just add the @ in front of the profile name. @JeepCares (is now tagged).
 

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My 14 TH has been doing the same thing except I dont flat tow so I have not tested to see if it will go into neutral but everything works great aside from not being able to go into 4 low anymore. I bought this jeep with 70k miles and hail damaged. The dealer wanted more money than I had spent for the entire vehicle to replace the rear PTU because they don't fully know what the problem is. It's been really frustrating
Thanks for the tags here, everyone.

To clarify, Derknhood, are you working with a dealer towards repairs at this time? If so, send us a private message and provide some more details on the repair options and we can assist.

Kate
Jeep Cares
 

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I vote for Post #2 above. Maybe you could PM KL14 and see if he has any updated thoughts on the subject.
It makes sense to me that a bad PTU would likely be the problem.
After 7 years of this there should be a Tech that can use a WiTech to identify the problem that is preventing 4WD operation.
My mechanic replaced a perfectly good wheel speed sensor, after a serious discussion I convinced him to use his WiTech to find the real problem.
He did and found I had a cracked tone ring. Moral of the story: Use the tools and knowledge you were given.
Contact @JeepCares, certainly FCA has this figured out by know.
I have a 2014 V6 TH so if there is something going on here I want to know about it.
Refer to this Post for most of the TSBs and Recalls for your Jeep: List of up to date TSB
Especially Posts 10 and 22.
Refer to this Post: Pull 4x4/PTU Fuse = FWD Cherokee + Possible Fuel Economy...
If F10 in the PDC is open 4WD will not work, could it be this simple???
My cherokee is the V6 as well so identical to yours. I have been through the fuses and no issues there. I use to be able to hear the rear ptu actuator activate for the shift but it does not do that anymore. Not sure why but I'm leaning towards replacing the actuator because the dealer wanted 8,000 to replace the rear PTU without knowing why it was not working and that just sounds like a rip off to me. I have not had 4 low for a year now and I miss it as I did moab all the time and use to really promote the cherokee. Recently I replaced the battery and immediately after startup without attempting a shift the dash said "4WD system Temporarily unavailable" it never says overheated or service required but this message appears sometimes. So to me it would seem like maybe a bad actuator and the computer realizes it or just a bad sensor?
 

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My 2014 TH has had rear axle seals on the left axle "weep" since the Jeep was new.
About once a year I top up the oil in the RDM. So far I have added over 1 quart of oil.
Maybe this would be a good time to add oil to the RDU and look for leaks since you have probably never done this.
This is the only way I have figured out how to check the gear oil level. Don't know if low oil would stop you from having 4WD available.
There is a sensor on the right side of the RDM with wires going to it and it is protected by an aluminum tab.
When going off road I have always feared I would break the tab and damage the sensor, so far I have been lucky. Check that?
Broke everything else though, including both rear lower control arms.
 

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My 2014 TH has had rear axle seals on the left axle "weep" since the Jeep was new.
About once a year I top up the oil in the RDM. So far I have added over 1 quart of oil.
Maybe this would be a good time to add oil to the RDU and look for leaks since you have probably never done this.
This is the only way I have figured out how to check the gear oil level. Don't know if low oil would stop you from having 4WD available.
There is a sensor on the right side of the RDM with wires going to it and it is protected by an aluminum tab.
When going off road I have always feared I would break the tab and damage the sensor, so far I have been lucky. Check that?
Broke everything else though, including both rear lower control arms.
I always know when my RDM is low by the lack of gear oil smell. Lmao.

Also, any shift problems concerning the PTU always return a PTU failure. I've heard of shift fork actuator electrical failures, but mostly they bind, shred and die.
 
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