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If anyone is interested in the the alignment specs I have attached a summary print-out from today from Firestone. Keep in mind I dropped the front knuckle and drilled out the hole and re-bolted as the directions state. The spacers I used were a UHMW material. 1 on top of each spring: 3/8" (.375" X 4.125" OD X 2.125" ID). 1 on the bottom of each spring: 1/2" (.5" X 4.125" OD X 2.125" ID)
 

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Oh and just to clarify (I apologize it wont let me edit my post) my TH is BRAND NEW. Only has about 250 miles, yes only two hundred and fifty miles lol no mistake. So you can see that it highly recommended to do an alignment after the install.
 

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Finally completed my Aussie lift and installed 255/70/17s. What i got after the lift is
lf 34.5 rf 34.25
lr 35 rr 34.75
unfortunately my original measurements were destroyed in a rain storm that crept up while we were in the middle of the lift. but if i recall correctly they were all around 33 or under (rf was a half in lower than the rest)
 

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Lol they sell them in different bore sizes and widths. I didn't mean those specific ones I linked. :) Plus it'd be no thing to take one to a machine shop and have them grind it down a couple MM if need be. You could even stack 2 per strut if you wanted.

It's funny because this is exactly what a few of us said to do when were discussing "safety issues" with Aussie lift but were told there was much more to it :p
 

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Lol they sell them in different bore sizes and widths. I didn't mean those specific ones I linked. :) Plus it'd be no thing to take one to a machine shop and have them grind it down a couple MM if need be. You could even stack 2 per strut if you wanted.

It's funny because this is exactly what a few of us said to do when were discussing "safety issues" with Aussie lift but were told there was much more to it :p
Unless you are going to somehow mechanically integrate this into the knuckle, it's totally pointless to have it and it won't do anything more than the knuckle alone is going to do other than add some (small amount of) weight.
 

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Unless you are going to somehow mechanically integrate this into the knuckle, it's totally pointless to have it and it won't do anything more than the knuckle alone is going to do other than add some (small amount of) weight.
This is what I have been trying to figure out... the only thing it would help is if the strut clamp bolt came loose, this would keep the strut from bottoming out in the clamp... but wouldn't do anything to prevent it from going the other way (coming out).

I just do not see the point... if your bolt is torqued down properly it shouldn't ever move... it's not like we are removing the strut so far out of the clamp that it no longer has the full clamping area...l. Even if we were, it wouldn't do a thing to prevent it from coming out... which seems to be the intended point...

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This is what I have been trying to figure out... the only thing it would help is if the strut clamp bolt came loose, this would keep the strut from bottoming out in the clamp... but wouldn't do anything to prevent it from going the other way (coming out).

I just do not see the point... if your bolt is torqued down properly it shouldn't ever move... it's not like we are removing the strut so far out of the clamp that it no longer has the full clamping area...l. Even if we were, it wouldn't do a thing to prevent it from coming out... which seems to be the intended point...

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Yup, totally agree. Unless it's mechanically tied in, it's a waste of time. If the knuckle were to take a hard enough hit to cause the strut to move up in the clamp, this dinky piece of metal isn't going to do jack and moving down is even more pointless.

In any case, there have been enough people on this forum who have the lift and have beat the piss out of it without any issues. At this point in time, it's safe to say we're good.
 

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Lifted TH (Valpacer "Aussie" lift)

I can tell you from experience that if that clamping bolt comes loose, the strut will never fully come out of the knuckle unless somehow the lower control arm com's completely disconnected. It just cannot drop that far down for that to happen.

I.e. If it ones come out, you have bigger problems. Say from hitting a rock at high speeds.


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The aim of the collar was to butt up against the knuckle and provide additional stability to the lower end of the strut. The belief being that by lifting the strut it provided greater leverage from the knuckle to bend the strut if the wheel copped a hard whack. How effective that would be I don't know. I have been airborne accidentally and slammed down again with no movement in strut height but I cant say I have slammed a wheel into a tree stump or similar.

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In order to bend the strut one would also have to bend the control arm since that's the other attachment point for the knuckle if it were to rotate. I think at that point, a bent strut would be the least of your worries.
 

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This is what I have been trying to figure out... the only thing it would help is if the strut clamp bolt came loose, this would keep the strut from bottoming out in the clamp... but wouldn't do anything to prevent it from going the other way (coming out).

I just do not see the point... if your bolt is torqued down properly it shouldn't ever move... it's not like we are removing the strut so far out of the clamp that it no longer has the full clamping area...l. Even if we were, it wouldn't do a thing to prevent it from coming out... which seems to be the intended point...

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It's clearly a money grab...any intelligent person can see that those have no use other than being an initial spacer, which Hazzard includes in his $60 version anyway.
 

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It's clearly a money grab...any intelligent person can see that those have no use other than being an initial spacer, which Hazzard includes in his $60 version anyway.
That's a good idea. I should just duct tape the printed spacer onto my strut for additional clamping area. It would provide the same benefits as the metal one.

Hazzard, can I get another one for my other strut. :)
 

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That's a good idea. I should just duct tape the printed spacer onto my strut for additional clamping area. It would provide the same benefits as the metal one.



Hazzard, can I get another one for my other strut. :)


Sure! I hear the going rate is 50, but since you already have half, say 25? :p


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