[Mark_]

Hello,
I'm fairly novice in working with cars, but comfortable enough to replace the bulbs in the xenon fixture. I replaced both with LED lights after the driver's side went out. Now the driver's stays on for approx. 2 seconds, then goes out, and the passenger follows 3-5 minutes later. Turning lights off then back on brings them back on and it takes the same amount of time for them to go out again. I tested fuses and there are 3 7.5's in the interior that go on then go out. Which I don't understand given that the lights are supposed to be 15's. Also, the fuse layout doesn't match the diagram I found.
An Autozone employee suggested that the main fuse box may have lost connection with it's ground.

I've owned the car for 4+ years, and I've not had an issue with electrical components before.
Help please! View attachment 222089

Hi there and welcome

Ok, let's a get a few things straightened out first :

1) You mentioned 'xenon fixture' and then replace with LED bulbs ? What model/trim and model year is your Cherokee ? Cherokee or Grand Cherokee ?

2) What you describe there sounds like your Jeep has OEM halogen headlights, then you installed an LED bulb kit, and now you are fighting the headlight monitoring system. If that is the case, just know you are not alone... we've seen doznes and dozens of forum members complain about similar situations, with aftermarket LED bulbs ; they are not easy to tame on this Jeep. More on that later...

3) Fuse layout in the manual is wrong. Headlight fuses are not what they seem to be, but that depends on your model. On halogen equipped Cherokees, the headlight bulbs are fused directly via the body control module, not where the manual says they are fused.

So... let's start with your model, model year and which type of bulbs you had originally and we'll take it from there

 

[Mark_]

She's a 2015 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 4x4 2.4L 4 cylinder - and of course I got picked up by troopers for my inspection today 🤦‍♀️

Original bulbs were halogen bulbs.

Thanks.

Don't know how inspections work where you are and how quickly you need to correct the situation, but for now I'd suggest you re-install halogen bulbs asap, to get your headlights back. If you don't have the original bulbs, what you need are 9012 halogen bulbs.

Troubleshooting non working aftermarket LED bulbs is a bit of a nightmare, we have many threads on this very subject here on the forum. Do you know which LED kit was purchased, exactly ? Did it come with a 'CANbus' option ? You probably need resistors... to overcome the sensitivie headlight monitor. Something like these :

Amazon.com: Alla Lighting 9005 9006 HB3 HB4 9012 LED Load Resistors Adapter 50W 6Ohm Error Free Fix Headlights/Fog Lights Flashing Flickering/Error Code Can-bus Bypass Wiring Harness Decoder : Automotive

Buy Alla Lighting 9005 9006 HB3 HB4 9012 LED Load Resistors Adapter 50W 6Ohm Error Free Fix Headlights/Fog Lights Flashing Flickering/Error Code Can-bus Bypass Wiring Harness Decoder: Ballast Resistors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Mark_]

I'll answer for him. Yes, put new halogen bulbs in and your issues will go away. LED bulbs like the ones you bought claim to be plug and play replacements for the halogens, but that is often not the case in reality. As Mark said in his post you usually have to make other modifications to make them work correctly.

^^ Exactly.

 

[Mark_]

Does anyone have any suggestions for the halogen bulb? I would like to get the brightest I can run on oem fixtures. I live in NY and travel through farm and country regularly, and I was trying to achieve the best visibility I could. I know I could Google and come up with something but, that's how this happened.

Also, thank you all for chiming in so quickly. I definitely appreciate the peace of mind with a solution for a common problem.

These halogens, the 9012 type, don't come in ''high power'' versions. There are only 55W versions, with most being OEM-like with neutral/yellow 4000K (ish) color. There are some 'blue tinted' versions which claim to be brighter, but from what I know they are merely tinted versions of regular bulbs, with the same 55W rating.

I know what you were trying to do, I have a 2015 which came with halogens and I've replaced them, because the halogens are so crappy. They are crappy not because of the 9012 bulbs (9012 bulbs are good, highly efficent halogen bulbs) but because the projectors were designed for HIDs (xenon bulbs) and not halogens. Halogen bulbs just can't create good lighting in these projectors, no matter the bulb color you chose. I ended up getting an HID kit and wouldn't go with anything else.

Aftermarket LED bulbs would give you somewhat better light output than the halogens, but as you've exprienced they are a pain to get to work in the Cherokee. The resistors I posted about up there ''should'' get your LEDs to work. So my advice : get a pair of 9012 halogen bulbs for now and order a pair of resistors for $20, then try them with your LEDs.
@Gary Kline can confirm how to install these resistors because they do get hot, and you'll probably need to drill a hole in the plastic headlamp dust caps to allow the wiring inside the lamp.

 

[Mark_]

I don't think it's just a matter of them being tinted different as they are well known for not lasting as long and that wouldn't be the case if it was just a tinting difference.

I put some in my Mom's car once and there was a difference in light output, but they were dead in a years time, so the next set I put in for her were just the regular 9012s.

I'll take your word for it. I was under the impression that only higher power bulbs had a reduced life, or cheap bulbs, but those are quality brand bulbs right there. And they are a bit pricey (should mean higher performance).

 

[Mark_]

ps: One thing... When I mentioned that I've suspended my resistors using wires, it's outside the lens assembly. I've heard that some folks put their resistors inside the headlight housing. I wasn't that brave. I didn't want to take the chance of a hot resistor melting the headlight housing (they're expensive) and felt the best way to keep the LEDs cool (which themselves get hot) AND the resistors cool, was to keep the resistors external to the headlight housing. YMMV but this is what I ended up doing.

Yep I wouldn't chance it inside the lamps either. The resistor wiring looks kinda short, it may not be easy to mount them to metal outside the lamps, on such a short leash (so to speak).

12'' extensions maybe ? : https://www.amazon.com/HUIQIAODS-9006-9005-Conversion-Extension/dp/B07PB15WJJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GQU6HAG3F5E1&keywords=9006+extension+cable&qid=1673932706&sprefix=9006+extension+cable,aps,119&sr=8-3