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2014 TH 3.2, 2" lift, 1" spacers, Steelies
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Thanks.

Don't know how inspections work where you are and how quickly you need to correct the situation, but for now I'd suggest you re-install halogen bulbs asap, to get your headlights back. If you don't have the original bulbs, what you need are 9012 halogen bulbs.

Troubleshooting non working aftermarket LED bulbs is a bit of a nightmare, we have many threads on this very subject here on the forum. Do you know which LED kit was purchased, exactly ? Did it come with a 'CANbus' option ? You probably need resistors... to overcome the sensitivie headlight monitor. Something like these :
Those are the resistors I used in my Cherokee when I went to Leads and solved all CANBUS, light-out issues.
 

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2014 TH 3.2, 2" lift, 1" spacers, Steelies
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261 Posts
These halogens, the 9012 type, don't come in ''high power'' versions. There are only 55W versions, with most being OEM-like with neutral/yellow 4000K (ish) color. There are some 'blue tinted' versions which claim to be brighter, but from what I know they are merely tinted versions of regular bulbs, with the same 55W rating.

I know what you were trying to do, I have a 2015 which came with halogens and I've replaced them, because the halogens are so crappy. They are crappy not because of the 9012 bulbs (9012 bulbs are good, highly efficent halogen bulbs) but because the projectors were designed for HIDs (xenon bulbs) and not halogens. Halogen bulbs just can't create good lighting in these projectors, no matter the bulb color you chose. I ended up getting an HID kit and wouldn't go with anything else.

Aftermarket LED bulbs would give you somewhat better light output than the halogens, but as you've exprienced they are a pain to get to work in the Cherokee. The resistors I posted about up there ''should'' get your LEDs to work. So my advice : get a pair of 9012 halogen bulbs for now and order a pair of resistors for $20, then try them with your LEDs.
@Gary Kline can confirm how to install these resistors because they do get hot, and you'll probably need to drill a hole in the plastic headlamp dust caps to allow the wiring inside the lamp.
Hi @Rawrpikasauras , as @Mark_ suggested, order the resistors off Amazon and use your halogens until they come in. Once they arrive, put the LEDs in and hook up the resistors and see if the on/off issues go away. Leave the dust covers off at first until you know if the issues are gone.

The resistors get hot when the lights are on. They have mounting holes in the casing as shown in the screenshot below. The idea is to use the mounting holes to screw the resistors to the metal of the car so they don't touch anything (and the metal also takes away heat). I don't recall if it was that I couldn't find a suitable location or I was just lazy :cool: (probably the latter) but I put metal wire through the holes and was able to 'suspend' the resistors so they didn't touch any plastic or other wires - they're suspended in air.

Once everything is confirmed working and the on/off has gone away (and there's no "Bulb Out" messages in the display by the speedometer), you can put the dust covers back on after drilling/dremel-ing suitable holes for the wires to go through.

BTW, I live in NY (right outside NYC) but head upstate alot as my kids go to the SUNY's @ New Paltz, Geneseo and Buffalo. I drive a lot of the back roads on the trip any my LED in both the main headlights and fog lights give great lighting even where there are no highway/street lighting. They're much better than the stock lights.

Best.

Tool Office ruler Cable Font Wire
 

· Registered
2014 TH 3.2, 2" lift, 1" spacers, Steelies
Joined
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261 Posts
Hi @Rawrpikasauras , as @Mark_ suggested, order the resistors off Amazon and use your halogens until they come in. Once they arrive, put the LEDs in and hook up the resistors and see if the on/off issues go away. Leave the dust covers off at first until you know if the issues are gone.

The resistors get hot when the lights are on. They have mounting holes in the casing as shown in the screenshot below. The idea is to use the mounting holes to screw the resistors to the metal of the car so they don't touch anything (and the metal also takes away heat). I don't recall if it was that I couldn't find a suitable location or I was just lazy :cool: (probably the latter) but I put metal wire through the holes and was able to 'suspend' the resistors so they didn't touch any plastic or other wires - they're suspended in air.

Once everything is confirmed working and the on/off has gone away (and there's no "Bulb Out" messages in the display by the speedometer), you can put the dust covers back on after drilling/dremel-ing suitable holes for the wires to go through.

BTW, I live in NY (right outside NYC) but head upstate alot as my kids go to the SUNY's @ New Paltz, Geneseo and Buffalo. I drive a lot of the back roads on the trip any my LED in both the main headlights and fog lights give great lighting even where there are no highway/street lighting. They're much better than the stock lights.

Best.

View attachment 222100
ps: One thing... When I mentioned that I've suspended my resistors using wires, it's outside the lens assembly. I've heard that some folks put their resistors inside the headlight housing. I wasn't that brave. I didn't want to take the chance of a hot resistor melting the headlight housing (they're expensive) and felt the best way to keep the LEDs cool (which themselves get hot) AND the resistors cool, was to keep the resistors external to the headlight housing. YMMV but this is what I ended up doing.
 
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