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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello,
I'm fairly novice in working with cars, but comfortable enough to replace the bulbs in the xenon fixture. I replaced both with LED lights after the driver's side went out. Now the driver's stays on for approx. 2 seconds, then goes out, and the passenger follows 3-5 minutes later. Turning lights off then back on brings them back on and it takes the same amount of time for them to go out again. I tested fuses and there are 3 7.5's in the interior that go on then go out. Which I don't understand given that the lights are supposed to be 15's. Also, the fuse layout doesn't match the diagram I found.
An Autozone employee suggested that the main fuse box may have lost connection with it's ground.

I've owned the car for 4+ years, and I've not had an issue with electrical components before.
Help please!
Gas Machine Room Wood Electrical wiring
 

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Hello,
I'm fairly novice in working with cars, but comfortable enough to replace the bulbs in the xenon fixture. I replaced both with LED lights after the driver's side went out. Now the driver's stays on for approx. 2 seconds, then goes out, and the passenger follows 3-5 minutes later. Turning lights off then back on brings them back on and it takes the same amount of time for them to go out again. I tested fuses and there are 3 7.5's in the interior that go on then go out. Which I don't understand given that the lights are supposed to be 15's. Also, the fuse layout doesn't match the diagram I found.
An Autozone employee suggested that the main fuse box may have lost connection with it's ground.

I've owned the car for 4+ years, and I've not had an issue with electrical components before.
Help please! View attachment 222089
Hi there and welcome :)

Ok, let's a get a few things straightened out first :

1) You mentioned 'xenon fixture' and then replace with LED bulbs ? What model/trim and model year is your Cherokee ? Cherokee or Grand Cherokee ?

2) What you describe there sounds like your Jeep has OEM halogen headlights, then you installed an LED bulb kit, and now you are fighting the headlight monitoring system. If that is the case, just know you are not alone... we've seen doznes and dozens of forum members complain about similar situations, with aftermarket LED bulbs ; they are not easy to tame on this Jeep. More on that later...

3) Fuse layout in the manual is wrong. Headlight fuses are not what they seem to be, but that depends on your model. On halogen equipped Cherokees, the headlight bulbs are fused directly via the body control module, not where the manual says they are fused.

So... let's start with your model, model year and which type of bulbs you had originally and we'll take it from there ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi there and welcome :)

Ok, let's a get a few things straightened out first :

1) You mentioned 'xenon fixture' and then replace with LED bulbs ? What model/trim and model year is your Cherokee ? Cherokee or Grand Cherokee ?

2) What you describe there sounds like your Jeep has OEM halogen headlights, then you installed an LED bulb kit, and now you are fighting the headlight monitoring system. If that is the case, just know you are not alone... we've seen doznes and dozens of forum members complain about similar situations, with aftermarket LED bulbs ; they are not easy to tame on this Jeep. More on that later...

3) Fuse layout in the manual is wrong. Headlight fuses are not what they seem to be, but that depends on your model. On halogen equipped Cherokees, the headlight bulbs are fused directly via the body control module, not where the manual says they are fused.

So... let's start with your model, model year and which type of bulbs you had originally and we'll take it from there ;)
She's a 2015 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 4x4 2.4L 4 cylinder - and of course I got picked up by troopers for my inspection today 🤦‍♀️
 

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She's a 2015 Jeep Cherokee Latitude 4x4 2.4L 4 cylinder - and of course I got picked up by troopers for my inspection today 🤦‍♀️
Original bulbs were halogen bulbs.
Thanks.

Don't know how inspections work where you are and how quickly you need to correct the situation, but for now I'd suggest you re-install halogen bulbs asap, to get your headlights back. If you don't have the original bulbs, what you need are 9012 halogen bulbs.

Troubleshooting non working aftermarket LED bulbs is a bit of a nightmare, we have many threads on this very subject here on the forum. Do you know which LED kit was purchased, exactly ? Did it come with a 'CANbus' option ? You probably need resistors... to overcome the sensitivie headlight monitor. Something like these :
 

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Thanks.

Don't know how inspections work where you are and how quickly you need to correct the situation, but for now I'd suggest you re-install halogen bulbs asap, to get your headlights back. If you don't have the original bulbs, what you need are 9012 halogen bulbs.

Troubleshooting non working aftermarket LED bulbs is a bit of a nightmare, we have many threads on this very subject here on the forum. Do you know which LED kit was purchased, exactly ? Did it come with a 'CANbus' option ? You probably need resistors... to overcome the sensitivie headlight monitor. Something like these :
Those are the resistors I used in my Cherokee when I went to Leads and solved all CANBUS, light-out issues.
 

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This is my headlight upgrade for my 2014 TH:
Put in PUTCO PURE Halogen Mirror White 9012 60W 4000K bulbs.
Fog lights: Diode Dynamics PN PSX24W XML2 LED (pair) (1400 lumens) lights. Worthless as functional fog lights, but light up the sides of the road.
There are better fog light choices, but this is what I did. Use the headlight low beams for fog lights which are ok if aimed low. I don't drive in fog so this is a low priority.
When the headlights are aimed correctly they do a reasonably good job of illuminating the road if there are reflective road edge and painted center lines.
Reflective street signs help a lot. Mostly I drive where there is lots of traffic and street lights.
Then if you actually want to see good at night install driving lights and/or fog lights.
This is what I did: Driving lights
The wiring and installation is inexpensive and works well. Currently I am using a Hella 500 on the left, a pencil beam and a Hella 500FF on the right, gives side lighting.
Install anything you want, totally independent of the CAN Bus and does not give any errors.
Installation on a TH is easy. You can remove the lights when not needed and install and aim them easily when they are needed.
The lights are adequate for driving out East and rarely annoy oncoming drivers.
The Hella 500FF driving lights and Hella 530 fog lights cost me a total of $50 for everything at Spring Carlisle.
If you drive in open range country in the SW you will want at least 85W H3 bulbs or 100W H3 bulbs, but the wiring will be a lot more difficult. These bulbs draw a lot of current.
Generally you can have driving lights which are legal for "off road use only" if you install covers.
If you live in California you can probably forget this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks.

Don't know how inspections work where you are and how quickly you need to correct the situation, but for now I'd suggest you re-install halogen bulbs asap, to get your headlights back. If you don't have the original bulbs, what you need are 9012 halogen bulbs.

Troubleshooting non working aftermarket LED bulbs is a bit of a nightmare, we have many threads on this very subject here on the forum. Do you know which LED kit was purchased, exactly ? Did it come with a 'CANbus' option ? You probably need resistors... to overcome the sensitivie headlight monitor. Something like these :
The main reason I installed these bulbs was because the driver's side halogen went out. I didn't install an LED kit, I got plug and play LED bulbs.
From Autozone:
Sylvania OFF Road LED Headlight, Fog light and PowerSport Bulb 9005SLBX2

You suggest I install new halogen bulbs and see if there's any further electrical issues?
 

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The main reason I installed these bulbs was because the driver's side halogen went out. I didn't install an LED kit, I got plug and play LED bulbs.
From Autozone:
Sylvania OFF Road LED Headlight, Fog light and PowerSport Bulb 9005SLBX2

You suggest I install new halogen bulbs and see if there's any further electrical issues?
I'll answer for him. Yes, put new halogen bulbs in and your issues will go away. LED bulbs like the ones you bought claim to be plug and play replacements for the halogens, but that is often not the case in reality. As Mark said in his post you usually have to make other modifications to make them work correctly.
 

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I'll answer for him. Yes, put new halogen bulbs in and your issues will go away. LED bulbs like the ones you bought claim to be plug and play replacements for the halogens, but that is often not the case in reality. As Mark said in his post you usually have to make other modifications to make them work correctly.
^^ Exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
^^ Exactly.
Does anyone have any suggestions for the halogen bulb? I would like to get the brightest I can run on oem fixtures. I live in NY and travel through farm and country regularly, and I was trying to achieve the best visibility I could. I know I could Google and come up with something but, that's how this happened.

Also, thank you all for chiming in so quickly. I definitely appreciate the peace of mind with a solution for a common problem.
 

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Does anyone have any suggestions for the halogen bulb? I would like to get the brightest I can run on oem fixtures. I live in NY and travel through farm and country regularly, and I was trying to achieve the best visibility I could. I know I could Google and come up with something but, that's how this happened.

Also, thank you all for chiming in so quickly. I definitely appreciate the peace of mind with a solution for a common problem.
These halogens, the 9012 type, don't come in ''high power'' versions. There are only 55W versions, with most being OEM-like with neutral/yellow 4000K (ish) color. There are some 'blue tinted' versions which claim to be brighter, but from what I know they are merely tinted versions of regular bulbs, with the same 55W rating.

I know what you were trying to do, I have a 2015 which came with halogens and I've replaced them, because the halogens are so crappy. They are crappy not because of the 9012 bulbs (9012 bulbs are good, highly efficent halogen bulbs) but because the projectors were designed for HIDs (xenon bulbs) and not halogens. Halogen bulbs just can't create good lighting in these projectors, no matter the bulb color you chose. I ended up getting an HID kit and wouldn't go with anything else.

Aftermarket LED bulbs would give you somewhat better light output than the halogens, but as you've exprienced they are a pain to get to work in the Cherokee. The resistors I posted about up there ''should'' get your LEDs to work. So my advice : get a pair of 9012 halogen bulbs for now and order a pair of resistors for $20, then try them with your LEDs.
@Gary Kline can confirm how to install these resistors because they do get hot, and you'll probably need to drill a hole in the plastic headlamp dust caps to allow the wiring inside the lamp.
 

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There are 55W 9012 bulbs like the ones listed below which do provide slightly better performance than a stock 9012 bulb. However, their lifespan is much shorter.

Another thing to note, halogen bulbs get dimmer over time, so just replacing them with new ones will give you more brightness than what you currently have.


 

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These halogens, the 9012 type, don't come in ''high power'' versions. There are only 55W versions, with most being OEM-like with neutral/yellow 4000K (ish) color. There are some 'blue tinted' versions which claim to be brighter, but from what I know they are merely tinted versions of regular bulbs, with the same 55W rating.
I don't think it's just a matter of them being tinted different as they are well known for not lasting as long and that wouldn't be the case if it was just a tinting difference.

I put some in my Mom's car once and there was a difference in light output, but they were dead in a years time, so the next set I put in for her were just the regular 9012s.
 

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I don't think it's just a matter of them being tinted different as they are well known for not lasting as long and that wouldn't be the case if it was just a tinting difference.

I put some in my Mom's car once and there was a difference in light output, but they were dead in a years time, so the next set I put in for her were just the regular 9012s.
I'll take your word for it. I was under the impression that only higher power bulbs had a reduced life, or cheap bulbs, but those are quality brand bulbs right there. And they are a bit pricey (should mean higher performance).
 

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These halogens, the 9012 type, don't come in ''high power'' versions. There are only 55W versions, with most being OEM-like with neutral/yellow 4000K (ish) color. There are some 'blue tinted' versions which claim to be brighter, but from what I know they are merely tinted versions of regular bulbs, with the same 55W rating.

I know what you were trying to do, I have a 2015 which came with halogens and I've replaced them, because the halogens are so crappy. They are crappy not because of the 9012 bulbs (9012 bulbs are good, highly efficent halogen bulbs) but because the projectors were designed for HIDs (xenon bulbs) and not halogens. Halogen bulbs just can't create good lighting in these projectors, no matter the bulb color you chose. I ended up getting an HID kit and wouldn't go with anything else.

Aftermarket LED bulbs would give you somewhat better light output than the halogens, but as you've exprienced they are a pain to get to work in the Cherokee. The resistors I posted about up there ''should'' get your LEDs to work. So my advice : get a pair of 9012 halogen bulbs for now and order a pair of resistors for $20, then try them with your LEDs.
@Gary Kline can confirm how to install these resistors because they do get hot, and you'll probably need to drill a hole in the plastic headlamp dust caps to allow the wiring inside the lamp.
Hi @Rawrpikasauras , as @Mark_ suggested, order the resistors off Amazon and use your halogens until they come in. Once they arrive, put the LEDs in and hook up the resistors and see if the on/off issues go away. Leave the dust covers off at first until you know if the issues are gone.

The resistors get hot when the lights are on. They have mounting holes in the casing as shown in the screenshot below. The idea is to use the mounting holes to screw the resistors to the metal of the car so they don't touch anything (and the metal also takes away heat). I don't recall if it was that I couldn't find a suitable location or I was just lazy :cool: (probably the latter) but I put metal wire through the holes and was able to 'suspend' the resistors so they didn't touch any plastic or other wires - they're suspended in air.

Once everything is confirmed working and the on/off has gone away (and there's no "Bulb Out" messages in the display by the speedometer), you can put the dust covers back on after drilling/dremel-ing suitable holes for the wires to go through.

BTW, I live in NY (right outside NYC) but head upstate alot as my kids go to the SUNY's @ New Paltz, Geneseo and Buffalo. I drive a lot of the back roads on the trip any my LED in both the main headlights and fog lights give great lighting even where there are no highway/street lighting. They're much better than the stock lights.

Best.

Tool Office ruler Cable Font Wire
 

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Hi @Rawrpikasauras , as @Mark_ suggested, order the resistors off Amazon and use your halogens until they come in. Once they arrive, put the LEDs in and hook up the resistors and see if the on/off issues go away. Leave the dust covers off at first until you know if the issues are gone.

The resistors get hot when the lights are on. They have mounting holes in the casing as shown in the screenshot below. The idea is to use the mounting holes to screw the resistors to the metal of the car so they don't touch anything (and the metal also takes away heat). I don't recall if it was that I couldn't find a suitable location or I was just lazy :cool: (probably the latter) but I put metal wire through the holes and was able to 'suspend' the resistors so they didn't touch any plastic or other wires - they're suspended in air.

Once everything is confirmed working and the on/off has gone away (and there's no "Bulb Out" messages in the display by the speedometer), you can put the dust covers back on after drilling/dremel-ing suitable holes for the wires to go through.

BTW, I live in NY (right outside NYC) but head upstate alot as my kids go to the SUNY's @ New Paltz, Geneseo and Buffalo. I drive a lot of the back roads on the trip any my LED in both the main headlights and fog lights give great lighting even where there are no highway/street lighting. They're much better than the stock lights.

Best.

View attachment 222100
ps: One thing... When I mentioned that I've suspended my resistors using wires, it's outside the lens assembly. I've heard that some folks put their resistors inside the headlight housing. I wasn't that brave. I didn't want to take the chance of a hot resistor melting the headlight housing (they're expensive) and felt the best way to keep the LEDs cool (which themselves get hot) AND the resistors cool, was to keep the resistors external to the headlight housing. YMMV but this is what I ended up doing.
 

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ps: One thing... When I mentioned that I've suspended my resistors using wires, it's outside the lens assembly. I've heard that some folks put their resistors inside the headlight housing. I wasn't that brave. I didn't want to take the chance of a hot resistor melting the headlight housing (they're expensive) and felt the best way to keep the LEDs cool (which themselves get hot) AND the resistors cool, was to keep the resistors external to the headlight housing. YMMV but this is what I ended up doing.
Yep I wouldn't chance it inside the lamps either. The resistor wiring looks kinda short, it may not be easy to mount them to metal outside the lamps, on such a short leash (so to speak).

12'' extensions maybe ? : https://www.amazon.com/HUIQIAODS-9006-9005-Conversion-Extension/dp/B07PB15WJJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2GQU6HAG3F5E1&keywords=9006+extension+cable&qid=1673932706&sprefix=9006+extension+cable,aps,119&sr=8-3
 

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The other good thing about halogen bulbs is they melt the snow and ice off of the lens and defog the stock headlight housings.
Projector headlights, no matter what kind of bulb, don't give a good wide beam pattern. Driving lights do.
The downside to driving lights they are easy to steal. They also don't fare well if you run into things or things run into you.
I park where there is a median so nobody can run into my lights.
My driving light set-up works well for going to Jeep shows in PA during the early morning hours. Lots of farm country. I take the back roads.

It is possible to trim one tab on a 9006 bulb so it will fit in a 9012 socket.
I did it on a Daewoo 9006 80W bulb. Or, use some other 9006 bulb of your choice.
A 9006 bulb is usually a low beam bulb.
It is easier if you have a 9012 bulb to copy. Wire cutters work well and file to clean up the edges.

A 9005 bulb is a high beam bulb, but I don't think the tabs can be cut to fit a 9012 socket.
I'll defer to somebody who knows for sure.
 
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