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Hi all, I got confirmation today that I have a bad PTU in my ‘14 Trailhawk. The garage I took it to quoted me $4600 to replace it which I don’t have (especially for a car that only blue books for around $8k right now).

i was curious if it is a must fix, or if it just means I won’t have 4x4? I haven’t noticed any sounds/grinding/shifting issues, just the Svc4x4 light and it won’t shift into 4x4.

Thanks!
 

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Hi all, I got confirmation today that I have a bad PTU in my ‘14 Trailhawk. The garage I took it to quoted me $4600 to replace it which I don’t have (especially for a car that only blue books for around $8k right now).

i was curious if it is a must fix, or if it just means I won’t have 4x4? I haven’t noticed any sounds/grinding/shifting issues, just the Svc4x4 light and it won’t shift into 4x4.

Thanks!
Since it’s a 2014 have you confirmed it doesn’t fall into the recall list for replacement?

I had the exact same issue happen on my 2019 Trailhawk, but mine is not included in the recall, and was outside the warranty window. My drove fine as well. I ultimately decided to fix it because I have a friend with a 2019 Trailhawk also and the PT went bad on hers too. Hers would occasionally make a clunking noise, but the dealership could never determine what it was, and it never threw a code. She was on the interstate when the PTU failed, and she lost all motion and control. She was nearly sideswiped by a 18 wheeler blaring his horn at her, trying to get out of the way. Wasn’t worth the risk to be in that situation for me. Unfortunately, I think it’s going to take a death because of the PTU for jeep to acknowledge the known issues and do a recall again.

I recommend you go to the NTHSA site and log your complaint so that a recall can be mandated.
 

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Since it’s a 2014 have you confirmed it doesn’t fall into the recall list for replacement?

I had the exact same issue happen on my 2019 Trailhawk, but mine is not included in the recall, and was outside the warranty window. My drove fine as well. I ultimately decided to fix it because I have a friend with a 2019 Trailhawk also and the PT went bad on hers too. Hers would occasionally make a clunking noise, but the dealership could never determine what it was, and it never threw a code. She was on the interstate when the PTU failed, and she lost all motion and control. She was nearly sideswiped by a 18 wheeler blaring his horn at her, trying to get out of the way. Wasn’t worth the risk to be in that situation for me. Unfortunately, I think it’s going to take a death because of the PTU for jeep to acknowledge the known issues and do a recall again.

I recommend you go to the NTHSA site and log your complaint so that a recall can be mandated.
Why does everyone keep saying Recall Replacement? There is no recall replacement!
There is just a Warranty Extension of 8 Years Or 150,000 miles for certain Cherokees MY 2014-2017, and The OP has to be past the 8 years, my 2015 was past the 8 years in December.
 

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Why does everyone keep saying Recall Replacement? There is no recall replacement!
There is just a Warranty Extension of 8 Years Or 150,000 miles for certain Cherokees MY 2014-2017, and The OP has to be past the 8 years, my 2015 was past the 8 years in December.
(y)
kind of a good reason not to buy an older unit, even if it has lower miles
I'm shopping for another, myself
 

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I personally would not recommend driving on it for long since there is no way to know what exactly is failing inside. The PTU can sometimes just fail electronically as if the actuator fails but they also can fail mechanically, splines, gears etc in which case you can lose forward power to all wheels since the PTU is directly connected to the transmission and the front passenger side cv axle splines connect directly into the PTU as well. It could lead to an accident if it grenades at the wrong time. If money is tight I would shop around independent mechanics you can most likely find someone who can do for less. I paid around $2k to get my AD1 PTU replaced. I know the one in the TH is more but should not be double from a honest independent mechanic.
 

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I personally would not recommend driving on it for long since there is no way to know what exactly is failing inside. The PTU can sometimes just fail electronically as if the actuator fails but they also can fail mechanically, splines, gears etc in which case you can lose forward power to all wheels since the PTU is directly connected to the transmission and the front passenger side cv axle splines connect directly into the PTU as well. It could lead to an accident if it grenades at the wrong time. If money is tight I would shop around independent mechanics you can most likely find someone who can do for less. I paid around $2k to get my AD1 PTU replaced. I know the one in the TH is more but should not be double from a honest independent mechanic.
Just a curiosity question for me. Also pardon my more lacking mechanical knowledge.

So even if one has an issue, and removes the F10 fuse to go to FWD only, a mechanically failure of the PTU would still cause the danger situation of mobility/power loss on the road?

Based on your reply above and thinking what you are saying through, I think the answer is YES, but wanted to verify specifically.

Thank you!
 

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Just a curiosity question for me. Also pardon my more lacking mechanical knowledge.

So even if one has an issue, and removes the F10 fuse to go to FWD only, a mechanically failure of the PTU would still cause the danger situation of mobility/power loss on the road?

Based on your reply above and thinking what you are saying through, I think the answer is YES, but wanted to verify specifically.

Thank you!
As @jcool001985 noted, there's no way to know what's failing inside. However, I/M/O there are two different issues that happen with the Cherokee PTU's;

1. The first is failure of the actuator and/or its electronics. This is the box on top of the PTU. If it stops working for whatever reason, the actuator arm doesn't move the gears to engage the rear wheels.
2. The other issue is mechanical. We've seen posts from cases splitting (pure mechanical faults in the metal/metallurgy) to lack of oil/oil leaking from seals eventually leaving the unit dry and the gears wearing down. Also, there's an issue on certain year/sn PTUs where the input splines can wear down. There's a website where anyone can punch in their VIN to see if their unit was one of those affected.

So, getting back to the question.... I/M/O, if the issue is with the actuator (which yours sounds like since it seems to work fine in FWD mode and you're not reporting an additional issues or made mention of any obvious oil leaks from the PTU etc.) then if it were me, I would be ok just driving it in the FWD mode for now. If the issue were mechanical (you hear grinding, there' engagement problems etc.), then I'd say, 'no' don't drive it. Just a caveat, this is how I would approach it and I'm not suggesting anyone else should follow this (disclaimer). The risk of course is that something could give out at a critical moment (e.g. you're accelerating onto a highway with an 18-wheeler bearing down etc.) so you need to make your own decision.

In the end, if you don't have the cash right now but need the car, say, to get to work then that's a big driver of your decision. At this point it doesn't really matter if the PTU gets worse since it will need to be replaced one day to get the 4WD back.

Another option.... (though it a little risky).... Search this forum regarding this topic. Along with the rear drive module (RDM), there's a strong suspicion that the majority of issues with the 4WD system are failed actuators on the PTU and RDM's. If you have access to a mechanic with a lift, it's possible to take out the PTU and replace just the actuator box and see if it resolves your 4WD issue. It would be a large cost savings but it's also a gamble of course becuase if it doesn't fix the issue you could be out the cost of labor of doing this (as well as whatever a replacement actuator costs). YMMV.
 

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The splines are wearing down due to shifting between FWD and AWD, this issue won’t happen if the Fuse is pulled cause it won’t try to engage AWD. So the splines wearing aren’t an issue for the OP if he pulls the fuse. At that point gears, PTU case failing etc shouldn’t cause any issue and he will continue to drive in FWD mode.
 

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The splines are wearing down due to shifting between FWD and AWD, this issue won’t happen if the Fuse is pulled cause it won’t try to engage AWD. So the splines wearing aren’t an issue for the OP if he pulls the fuse. At that point gears, PTU case failing etc shouldn’t cause any issue and he will continue to drive in FWD mode.
Hi @osimj , I think you may be thinking of a different recall. Recall W47 regarding the splines is between the transmission output shaft and the diff. inside the PTU and failure can occur only in FWD mode. The "fix" that FCA provided was (a) to engage the rear drive when moving or (b) engage the parking brake when stationary. Not much of a fix, huh? :unsure:

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Hi @osimj , I think you may be thinking of a different recall. Recall W47 regarding the splines is between the transmission output shaft and the diff. inside the PTU and failure can occur only in FWD mode. The "fix" that FCA provided was (a) to engage the rear drive when moving or (b) engage the parking brake when stationary. Not much of a fix, huh? :unsure:

View attachment 223045
Yes I know, the splines are failing because of the constant engagement and disengagement from FWD to AWD (everything is meshed together when engagement and disengagement is happening and it’s hammering on the weak splines and wearing/breaking them off) their lame patch is not always working there are at least 2 people that posted on this forum that they had W47 programming done and their splines failed afterwards and they still lost movement cause the rear drive still didn’t work.
The auto parking brake that will apply is only after the splines fail so the car won’t roll when put in park , this is different then setting the auto parking brake on UConnect.
If the fuse is pulled there will not be any type of engagement trying to happen therefore the splines won’t be hammered on and fail .
And at this point we don’t know if the OPs vehicle was one of the ones that was part of the W47 recall meaning he may have one with the good splines
 
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