[clew]

So I am going to put white LED's in the interior dome/map/cargo lights as well as at the license plate. I am wondering if anyone knows whether they need to be CAN Bus type or not. Seems some Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge's need them, some dont, and some are mixed. Do the letters in the front designate this as 212-2 is what I am used to seeing as a festoon bulb?

Cargo Lamp TL212–2
Overhead Console Lamp PLW214–2A
Reading Lamp WL212–2
License Plate Lamp W5W

Direct Link to removal instructions: http://jeepcherokeeclub.com/65-elec...ior-bulbs-led-replacement-23.html#post1235370

 

[clew]

Looks like the CAN Bus bulbs just add a load resistor to mimic the current drawn by an incandescent, so as not to trip the system as a dead bulb.
May just get them all CAN Bus and call it a day unless someone has insight into this.

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

None of my other past/present Chrysler products have monitored interior bulbs and I have had no issues using non-CANBUS led replacements. I genuinely doubt that they'd go with the increased cost and complexity of bulb monitoring for non-safety related lighting.

I'll post more when my interior LEDs arrive.

 

[clew]

None of my other past/present Chrysler products have monitored interior bulbs and I have had no issues using non-CANBUS led replacements. I genuinely doubt that they'd go with the increased cost and complexity of bulb monitoring for non-safety related lighting.

I'll post more when my interior LEDs arrive.

from what Ive read on dodge (ram) and jeep (wrangler & GC) forums trying to see how similar bulbs and chrysler vehicles worked, they def use them. If you dont use a canbus type, they may not dim on/off when getting in and out...only work when manually turned on.

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

My personal experiences with 2012 and 2014 Rams, 2012 Journey, 2008 JK, and 2011 300C have shown NO issues using non-CANBUS interior bulbs.

Ram exterior cargo lights required resistors to behave normally (but there was no bulb - out indication). Also no issues using non-CANBUS leds for the plate lights.

Conversely - I DID use SBLED's canbus bulbs for the Ram's signals and STILL got hyper flash and bulb out warnings forcing me to use external resistors anyway.

Sent from my LG-D803 using Tapatalk

 

[clew]

Interesting. When are you getting yours in?

 

[clew]

Oh...also have you opened any of them up yet?

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

They should be here next week, so I can do the HID and LED installs at the same time. I popped open on of the front reading lights - pretty easy: Just gotta be gentle and use something soft (like a trim removal tool or a plastic knife).

 

[clew]

Yeah they looked similar to my last car, used a butter knife on it. Have only messed with the license plate bulbs housings so far.

 

[Chase361]

I have already done this every bulb in the limited is 194 and none are canbus but the license plate. It will say "license plate bulb out" when u start the truck for 1 sec then goes away. Also does it for low beam headlights cause I installed a plug and play HID kit from Volt in em bulb size 9006 fog is H16. Does anyone know what I can use for the 2 license plate lights so the computer wont say there out?

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

Does anyone know what I can use for the 2 license plate lights so the computer wont say there out?

I believe that you need a 100ohm, 2watt resistor across each to satisfy the computer. (based on the original bulb draw).

I'm surprised that they added plate lights to the monitored circuits. Learner something new in 2014 already!

 

[Chase361]

I just bought two of these guys. Hopefully it will work lol

http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...bus-led-bulb-5-smd-led-wedge-base-tower/1127/

 

[clew]

Yep those are the ones I was looking at. Thanks for confirmation on the interior lights not being can bus.

 

[Chase361]

No prob it looks good too ull like it. Only thing thats annoying me is the light under the dash when u open the door. I don't think those can be changed, they look like there led already.

 

[clew]

So...the map lights. I got the dome and cargo housings open just fine, but had trouble up front. Did you guys pop the lens out, or drop the whole assembly? Couldn't find a good spot to wedge the lenses out with moderate force so I stopped to get some feedback. The domes have more gap due to the lens being the switch but the map lenses had extremely tight tolerances.

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

So...the map lights. I got the dome and cargo housings open just fine, but had trouble up front. Did you guys pop the lens out, or drop the whole assembly? Couldn't find a good spot to wedge the lenses out with moderate force so I stopped to get some feedback. The domes have more gap due to the lens being the switch but the map lenses had extremely tight tolerances.

The map light enclosures are a single piece (the lenses don't separate). The whole unit has to come down. Grab the front edge (nearest the windshield) and pull down. Don't pull on the rear side - there are two 1" prongs that sit under the roof liner that need to slide out.

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

Daylight, to its hart to see the lighting improvement, but:




I used these for the front map lights and cargo area side lighting (no issues):


And these for the rear dome lights (I had to splice in 2W 100Ω resistors in as shown to address some residual circuit power issues causing them to faintly glow when off):

 

[clew]

The map light enclosures are a single piece (the lenses don't separate). The whole unit has to come down. Grab the front edge (nearest the windshield) and pull down. Don't pull on the rear side - there are two 1" prongs that sit under the roof liner that need to slide out.

I actually just popped the lenses off, butter knife was too thick so I used a really small flat head. Prongs are really small so once you get it in a bit they pop right out.

I had a couple extra accidentally shipped to me, tried them in the license plate to see how they looked, non canbus. Looks like the error message pops up only when you first start the car and then goes away, so its not all that intrusive. On jeep garage a guy said his canbus LED's set off the error too and he's going to add another resistor to see if that helps.

 

[AlexD]

I've replaced all the interior lights and my license plate lights with OSRAM LED's They are supposedly can bus compatible but the license plate lights still throw an error. I just need to measure the resistance of a stock bulb and add some resistors accordingly to these. Due to the wide application of t10 socket bulbs, I'm betting they only use a rough average resistance of applicable bulbs on these and the JEEP canbus is just particularly sensitive.

 

[CDNTrailHawk]

The original bulbs are rated @ 5W. So at 12V you'll be drawing 0.42A/bulb.(i know it varies, and is generally closer to 14v, but they rate them at 5W/12V so we'll stick with that for consistency)

To obtain .42A, you'll require a resistance of 28.6Ω. So with a little rounding to whole numbers - a 5W, 30Ω resistor @ each bulb should do the trick. You should be able to get away with slightly less due to the integrated resistors in your canbus bulbs.