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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
The box seems to be red-ish for me, but yes I do have it plugged in. On the left side of the image you can see the wire harness going to it and the corner of the red box in the image. I guess I did not know I needed to move clips from the stock bezel to the new one, but before I do that I want to make sure the unit is actually working since I have had to keep swapping back and forth between my stock one and trying this one. I can take more/better pictures of the back of the unit and will check all fuses again and try and get a multimeter after work.
This is my wiring setup see if you are missing anything also I see two gray wires coming from my canvas box that are plugged into my head unit and when I unplug those my head unit powered off. When I plug them back in it powered on again so make sure that's connected also. You will notice that I only transferred two clips over from my factory faceplate though because that was all that was needed to hold it in place up top where the bottom is held down by screws.

I hope this helps
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This is my wiring setup see if you are missing anything also I see two gray wires coming from my canvas box that are plugged into my head unit and when I unplug those my head unit powered off. When I plug them back in it powered on again so make sure that's connected also. You will notice that I only transferred two clips over from my factory faceplate though because that was all that was needed to hold it in place up top where the bottom is held down by screws.

I hope this helps
Thanks. The only connections I don't have plugged in compared to your image from what I can tell are the USB connections. I have the 2 wires connected from the red box to the head unit however they are white and blue for me. I will go back again though and try and get some better pictures and check it again on my lunch break. Are the USB cables on the back essentially extra USB ports? I was under the impression the built in ones would work with the normal harness provided and the ones from Teyes appear to just be cables with a USB receiver on the end, are those necessary or just needed for updates/additional ports, either way this should not stop the unit from booting no? The other USB port has a mini usb female end on it, is this supposed to connect to the factory mini usb connection in the car that came out of the stock unit?

I will try to connect all the USB stuff to be safe and just try to ensure every possible thing is plugged in and connected and will test again later today and get some better pictures of the wiring while I wait to hear back from support.

I can't tell for sure on your screenshot, but do you not have this cable/harness connected that is circled in red on my picture? Is it only the "top 4 ports" that should have plugs in them?
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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
BAD IDEA! Do not use a stronger fuse, you can burn the entire unit up, possibly even start a fire (I will admit a remote possibility). Change the fuse with the same amperage but do not go bigger. Your unit may just be DOA…
Copy that edited my comment. Im betting the new fuse is bad. From his story all this started when he changed the fuse. Either that or a smaller size
 

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Copy that edited my comment. Im betting the new fuse is bad. From his story all this started when he changed the fuse. Either that or a smaller size
The fuse is good as it works fine with my stock head unit. It was the small yellow 20a fuse under the hood. This blew initially when I first tried to hook up power and turn the car on the first time I hooked up the Teyes CC3. The original fuse was visibly blown. I replaced it with the same exact type of fuse and got my stock head unit working again when connected, but the new Teyes one will not power up. I know the fuse is working fine with the stock unit and before I had replaced this fuse, I took the 20a yellow fuse that is below the radio one that is used for the rear power outlet and tested it with this one. So I have tested 2 separate 20a yellow fuses that work and power up the stock head unit, it is only the Teyes that does not boot up, but the fuse is not blowing anymore either. I will check all the wiring and what not again but I can't help but feel like something is going on with the head unit as much as I hope it is something else I can resolve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
The fuse is good as it works fine with my stock head unit. It was the small yellow 20a fuse under the hood. This blew initially when I first tried to hook up power and turn the car on the first time I hooked up the Teyes CC3. The original fuse was visibly blown. I replaced it with the same exact type of fuse and got my stock head unit working again when connected, but the new Teyes one will not power up. I know the fuse is working fine with the stock unit and before I had replaced this fuse, I took the 20a yellow fuse that is below the radio one that is used for the rear power outlet and tested it with this one. So I have tested 2 separate 20a yellow fuses that work and power up the stock head unit, it is only the Teyes that does not boot up, but the fuse is not blowing anymore either. I will check all the wiring and what not again but I can't help but feel like something is going on with the head unit as much as I hope it is something else I can resolve.
Did you do any "self wiring" ? or did you just plug and play everything? If all you did was plug and play its either a bad wiring harness? or a Bad unit. China sadly has 0 quality control what so compared to the USA. So its always a roll of the dice buying from china. If you bought from Teyes site and not Aliexpress email dan with your concerns. [email protected] Hey can only Help you if you bought from Teyes.com though.
 

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Did you do any "self wiring" ? or did you just plug and play everything? If all you did was plug and play its either a bad wiring harness? or a Bad unit. China sadly has 0 quality control what so compared to the USA. So its always a roll of the dice buying from china. If you bought from Teyes site and not Aliexpress email dan with your concerns. [email protected] Hey can only Help you if you bought from Teyes.com though.
No self wiring, just plug and play aside from connecting the blue antenna wire with the bud connector thing and I was having these issues before I even connected that wire. I just ran out on my lunch break and pulled everything out again and checked all the wiring and as far as I know and can tell, everything appears to be plugged in properly. Again, got red lights coming out of the optical port but once I turn the car on, it goes out and the unit doesn't power up and my odometer starts blinking.
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Does anyone have a picture or information what their canbus box is labeled as?
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When I scan the QR code on mine, it lists the grand cherokee and other vehicles, but does not specifically mention the "Cherokee" and not sure if this is normal or could be part of the problem? I will try to email Dan as well.
 

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No, it did not blow the fuse this time and I was able to swap back in my original and it booted right up again once I reconnected power and turned the car on. Not sure if something is going on with the headunit itself or what. A couple of the plastic clips were also broken on the bezel which was a little dissapointing, but I can't even get this unit to power on which I wanted to do before I worried about the bezel.

As far as I am aware, I have everything connected properly. It seems like everything really only fits in one slot and tried to get as much info as I could from the limited instructions. I feel like I have a lot of empty ports on the back of the unit but can't seem to find anything that would go there. Attached is an image of the back of the unit and what I have connected. I also checked the blue fuse on the actual head unit and that appears to be fine, it was only the radio one under the hood I had an issue with but I don't know if that blowing is a sign of another issue.
Not that this is the issue but from the looks of the earlier photo you posted, the only coaxial that should be connected is the yellow backup camera.......
 

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Not that this is the issue but from the looks of the earlier photo you posted, the only coaxial that should be connected is the yellow backup camera.......
Yeah I realized that after looking through other peoples images and what not and corrected it yesterday which should reflect in my updated photo from today. Part of me hoped maybe that was the issue but it made no difference and I don't think it would have prevented it from booting up.
 

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Did you replace the blue fuse on the back of your unit? In the pictures it’s on the left. If you blew a 20amp fuse, the blue is a 15 amp. that likely would have blown as well. Before you go further, check your wiring. If your blowing a 20 amp fuse something is shorted out…
 

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No self wiring, just plug and play aside from connecting the blue antenna wire with the bud connector thing and I was having these issues before I even connected that wire. I just ran out on my lunch break and pulled everything out again and checked all the wiring and as far as I know and can tell, everything appears to be plugged in properly. Again, got red lights coming out of the optical port but once I turn the car on, it goes out and the unit doesn't power up and my odometer starts blinking. View attachment 220365

View attachment 220366

Does anyone have a picture or information what their canbus box is labeled as?
View attachment 220367
When I scan the QR code on mine, it lists the grand cherokee and other vehicles, but does not specifically mention the "Cherokee" and not sure if this is normal or could be part of the problem? I will try to email Dan as well.
Zooming in on CWWJRs picture, it looks like its the same CANBUS decoder. RP-CH-002 is for several Jeep models:

Regarding the flashing odometer, this post says it indicates a CANBUS failure:

Id email Dan for support, but in the meantime i dont think itd hurt to try powering it up with the CANBUS decoder unplugged and see if anything happens. You will lose anything vehicle specific (no steering wheel control, no hvac, probably no usb/sd/aux). Itll be just a dumb tablet at that point, but for troubleshooting realistically the only wires you should need hooked up to get it to start up are 12V constant, 12V acc, and ground.
 

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Got my unit today. Looks great, starts and works. Finally have Carplay, that was primarily all i was interested in. I know its a full Android unit, but its nice to just be able to tie into my phone and work.

Some issues:
Touch assistant doesnt go straight to HVAC, instead it opens a round menu of which one of the options is Air. Its also a round circle icon and not a snowflake. Is there a way to change this to just go straight to HVAC?
Turniing the vehicle off and on changed this to HVAC controls.

HVAC: Temperature control does not work. The HVAC app says 127* C and does not change or do anything when pressed. If i press the buttons on the dash controls (factory buttons) i can turn up and down but nothing happens on the screen. Fan control does work, and does display on screen when factory controls changed. My CANBUS settings are XP, Jeep, Cherokee, L (i dont have the factory amp). Switching to H takes away volume controls.
Pressing the heat or cool buttons on screen do in fact turn the heat up and down, but nothing shows up on screen when i push these buttons and the temp stays at 127*

Illumination/Backlight: This does not change when i turn on and off the headlights. The icons on the left do not light up and the brightness does not change. I know on aftermarket units you have to connect up an illumination wire, but figured this is plug and play. Am I missing something here?

Wired Carplay: Wireless carplay works just fine, but id like the option for wireless carplay to work. I took the factory usb and the Teyes wire that connects to it and plugged it in the place of where the single USB cable would go. Is this right? In any event, the dash USB and center console USB do provide power and will charge my phone, but wired carplay will not connect over these. I imagine the only reason they should have power is because they are connected to the Teyes unit. Did I do something wrong?
 

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I think some of your issues were addressed in the videos cwwjr posted, at least I think the backlight was.

I am still having issues and can't get anything out of my unit. Dan replied back to me and wanted me to use a multimeter to test the power ports on the harness and see if they were swapped or getting power properly. I do not have a ton of experience with this or know 100% what I am doing, but I have tried 2 multimeters from coworkers and went and bought my own and on all of them, the pins on the tester are too "wide" to really fit down into the harness, I am not sure if they are properly making contact or how far down they should have to reach into the harness to test, and I am trying to use the other end of the tester to make contact with the metal bracket behind where the head unit mounts as this is really the only metal I can find but not sure if this properly constitutes as "the frame" of the car, but I feel like everytime I do this the meter is reading nothing. I will continue trying but I am not getting anywhere and can't help but feel like something is not working properly with the unit...

Dan also sent me a picture of a harness he said was comfirmed working by a customer and I notice their canbus box in the picture he sent me shows "RP5-CH-003" where as mine says "002" but the picture is too blurry for me to scan the QR code and I don't know if this could have caused or started my issues? But the unit does not power up even without the canbus connected.

I am running out of ideas and don't know what else to do and I feel like I can't get any further answers or support from Dan until I can provide the polarity of my G1 and G2 but feel like I am not really getting readings when I try...I have been looking for a solution to my head unit issues since my GPS stopped working a year ago and thought I finally found something and had been looking so forward to this and waiting for it to arrive and now it has turned into such a massive headache and am running out of ideas.
 

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I think some of your issues were addressed in the videos cwwjr posted, at least I think the backlight was.

I am still having issues and can't get anything out of my unit. Dan replied back to me and wanted me to use a multimeter to test the power ports on the harness and see if they were swapped or getting power properly. I do not have a ton of experience with this or know 100% what I am doing, but I have tried 2 multimeters from coworkers and went and bought my own and on all of them, the pins on the tester are too "wide" to really fit down into the harness, I am not sure if they are properly making contact or how far down they should have to reach into the harness to test, and I am trying to use the other end of the tester to make contact with the metal bracket behind where the head unit mounts as this is really the only metal I can find but not sure if this properly constitutes as "the frame" of the car, but I feel like everytime I do this the meter is reading nothing. I will continue trying but I am not getting anywhere and can't help but feel like something is not working properly with the unit...

Dan also sent me a picture of a harness he said was comfirmed working by a customer and I notice their canbus box in the picture he sent me shows "RP5-CH-003" where as mine says "002" but the picture is too blurry for me to scan the QR code and I don't know if this could have caused or started my issues? But the unit does not power up even without the canbus connected.

I am running out of ideas and don't know what else to do and I feel like I can't get any further answers or support from Dan until I can provide the polarity of my G1 and G2 but feel like I am not really getting readings when I try...I have been looking for a solution to my head unit issues since my GPS stopped working a year ago and thought I finally found something and had been looking so forward to this and waiting for it to arrive and now it has turned into such a massive headache and am running out of ideas.
Ya, he just says to turn it from time based to headlight based. Mine is set like his.

Regarding your issue, if the multimeter probes are too big, you could unfold a metal paperclip and put one side down the harness hole, then touch the positive probe to the paperclip. That essentially will extend the power out of the harness. Just be careful not to touch it to anything else so it doesnt short.
 

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Yeah that was going to be my last ditch effort was trying a paper clip but was a little worried and didn't know if that was okay or not to do but at this point I think it's the only way I can try and make any progress so I will plan on trying that on my lunch break today.

So the paperclip worked and allowed me to get some numbers. My G1 for ground tested at 0.7mv and should be 0, don't know if this small variance is normal or to be expected or if it should be flat out 0v? My G2 which Dan said should be 12v is reading as 14.04v. If this is messed up, where would the issue be or what would I even do about it to resolve?
 

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Yeah that was going to be my last ditch effort was trying a paper clip but was a little worried and didn't know if that was okay or not to do but at this point I think it's the only way I can try and make any progress so I will plan on trying that on my lunch break today.

So the paperclip worked and allowed me to get some numbers. My G1 for ground tested at 0.7mv and should be 0, don't know if this small variance is normal or to be expected or if it should be flat out 0v? My G2 which Dan said should be 12v is reading as 14.04v. If this is messed up, where would the issue be or what would I even do about it to resolve?
Was the car running when you tested? 12v will typically be ~14v when the car and alternator are running. G2 should be constant power so it should still have 12v when the car is off. What about G3 the car is on vs off? That’s switched power and what tells the unit to turn on and off, it should be 0V when off and 12v when on. G1 (ground) should be no higher than .05 V under load, .7mv is .0007V so your ground is fine.
 

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Was the car running when you tested? 12v will typically be ~14v when the car and alternator are running. G2 should be constant power so it should still have 12v when the car is off. What about G3 the car is on vs off? That’s switched power and what tells the unit to turn on and off, it should be 0V when off and 12v when on. G1 (ground) should be no higher than .05 V under load, .7mv is .0007V so your ground is fine.
Yes, it was running when I tested, I did not think to test while it was off but I can go back after work and test again and can test G3 on vs off as well. I only tested 1 and 2 because that's what Dan had asked me to check but I will test 3 as well later.
 

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I think the illumination backlight issue im getting I might be able to resolve. So I put a multimeter on the illumination wire while the headlights are on and im getting no voltage on that wire period. It runs to the canbus decoder, so its my thought the wire gets told to have voltage from the canbus decoder typically and thats what controls it.
Im thinking the hvac temp display issue and illumination code have something to do with this canbus decoder. Before I go forward, CWWJR can you verify which exact model canbus decoder you have so we can make sure this is the right one.

So to resolve backlight, my thought is: There is a cabin light just above where the USB/AUX/SD Card slot is that shines down on it. It gets ~10-12V with headlights on, and 0V with headlight off. The illumination wire should be looking for voltage when the headlights are on. So I should be able to cut the orange illumination wire in the middle between the harness and the decoder, and instead of it getting voltage from the decoder just splice into the cabin light. When that light is on, the head unit should dim.

Regarding wired carplay: I updated my unit today with a usb stick using the usb/aux/sd card slot and it updated just fine. So the port is connected fine. On top of this, when i connect another iphone that ive never connected it can see Carlink when plugged in but it will not connect. Im wondering if i perhaps need an update to the Carlink app. I emailed Dan and messaged support on Whatsapp but no replies to any of my issues. We shall see i guess.
 

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Fixed the dimmer/illumination issue. Turns out if you have the OEM dash lights brightness turned up to max, the Teyes unit will not dim. If you turn the roller down 1 notch from max, the Teyes unit will dim. Quite the goofy fix, but its one more thing i can cross off of my problems. Almost have this thing working right.
 
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